Seiko Prospex Sea 1968 Heritage Diver's GMT Watch SPB519 (similar to SPB509, HBC001 & HBC002) - Fantastic Sweet Spot, Capturing the Luxury Presence and Technical Capability, A Review (plus Video)

It has been more than a year since the Seiko Prospex Sea 1968 Heritage Diver's GMT Watch SPB519 was launched. This particular model is the poster child for this series which currently consists of four models (more about this later in the review). I always wanted to get one but never had the opportunity until now.

To be honest, I do own a re-crafted 1968 diver by Seiko when I got the SLA025 back in 2018. Powered by the Hi-Beat 8L55 movement which operates at 36,000 BPH, that watch was at a price point three (3x) times that of the SPB519.  

The GMT complication and the fact that it comes with a ceramic insert for the bezel as well as 300 meter water rating caught my interest. Furthermore, the placement of the date aperture to a position without the need to replace an hour marker makes the dial look symmetrical which appeals to me. The final nail-in-the-coffin is the new bracelet design with the exceptionally modern clasp with a tool-free ratcheting extension. 

 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller White Dial & Jubilee bracelet Reference M336934-0004 - Sophisticated and Practical Luxury Travel Watch, A Review (plus Video)

The end of the search for my grail watch. An excellent time indeed as it is also the end of 2025. The grail in question is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Reference M336934-0004.

To be honest, this was not the original target. I actually wanted to find the Reference M336934-0002, the mint green dial Sky-Dweller. However, the price quoted by the grey dealer was too high with the premium above the MSRP exceeding RM40,000!

After consulting with a good friend of mine, he recommended another grey dealer he trusted. The options available was more varied and one of them is the white dial version. When I saw it, it triggered something and I realized that white is my colour of choice. In fact, I dawned on me that already have two white dial Rolexes in the collection, the Daytona and the Explorer II. Getting another white dial Rolex is definitely a collection philosophy that is quite cool in my opinion.

The Sky-Dweller was first introduced 13 years ago in 2012. I was eyeing it even back than but no opportunity to get one until now. This is the second Rolex I bought via a grey dealer. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 42 mm Explorer II White Dial Reference 226570 Polar - After 10 years of waiting...My Grail Watch, A Review (plus Video)

I have always resisted buying watches from anyone apart from authorized dealers. Today, is the day I finally bought my first watch from a grey dealer. The pricing is way above the MSRP but this watch is a grail to me and the premium paid is something that I can live with. Today, I present to you the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 42 mm Explorer II White Dial Reference 226570.

 

This is the first time that I bought a watch from a grey dealer.  After many frustrating meetings (for many years!) with Rolex ADs and their promises to put my name on "waiting lists", I've decided to search for an alternative source. The watch is legit and is covered by a Rolex warranty but the warranty is already running instead of being effective the day I bought the watch. The only snag is that the price has a premium above the MSRP. Nevertheless, this watch is on my grail list. Screw the premium. This watch is definitely a keeper. 

Of the two options available, I love the white dial the most. The other white dial Rolex in the collection is my Daytona 116520.  

Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT SSK023K1 (similar to SSK025K1) - A Great Value GMT Watch that Exceeds its Price Point, A Review (plus Video)

GMT is the new buzzword for Seiko. For the last couple of years, Seiko has been introducing many new models with GMT functionality. In the collection, for the last two years, I have added the SSK003K1 and the SBGM247G and today, I would like to introduce to you the SSK023K1.

When this watch was highlighted on Seiko's website at the end of 2023, I was immediately drawn to the design. The genre, size and the functionality all fit into a watch design that is practical, comfortable and handsome. Thankfully the 2-watch series (for regions other than Japan, 3-watch series in Japan) does not have a limited edition option and therefore sourcing should not be a problem. 

 

A few weeks after the official launch, stocks of the series were made available to the local ADs in Kuala Lumpur. After conferring with my favorite AD, I brought home an SSK023K1 for the collection.

 

Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black Reference GL0311 (similar to GL0309, GL0310, GL0312, GL0313, GL0314 & GL0315) - A Touch of Nostalgia and Coolness, A Review (plus Video)

This is the second Glycine example in the collection. The first was the Glycine Combat 6 Vintage GL0122 which I got in May 2019. That particular Glycine is from the Combat range. The second Glycine is also a vintage inspired design. The historic Glycine SST collection is one of the most coveted vintage timepieces by the brand and Glycine has decided to relaunch it with some modern improvements. This particular timepiece is from the Airman range.

 

The Glycine SST GMT series was officially launched in 2021. It was listed on Gnomon Watches Singapore then but I did not get it as there were other priorities and the price was rather on the high side. It was only during the Christmas season of 2023 that Gnomon Watches Singapore had a special seasonal discount that it became feasible acquisition for me.

With an offering of a 17.1% discount from MSRP, I quickly put in an order. The model I got is the Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black GL0311. Typical of Gnomon Watches Singapore packaging service, I received the package four days later.

Citizen Series 8 880 Mechanical GMT NB6031-56E (Similar to NB6030-59L & NB6032-53P) - Has Wrist Presence, A Review (plus Video)

It was in June 2023 when Citizen announced a new series under the Series 8 line. This new sub-group is designated the '880'. I already have the NB6010-81E under the 831 sub-grouping. For this new sub-group, Citizen is introducing a new automatic movement, the Caliber 9054, that has a GMT complication. What is more importantly, the series is catered as a field watch instead of a dress watch of the previous Series 8 lines (831, 830 and 870).

The new design is very refreshing and incorporate a lot of key designs that helped the Promaster line (a range under Citizen) become famous. The addition of a timing bezel as well as a GMT complication increased the functionality immensely. 

Personally, I love the watch due to the integrated bracelet design. It looks elegant and sophisticated. Moreover, it is not often that Citizen comes out with an automatic watch powered with a new movement. In this case, the Caliber 9054 with the GMT function is new to the collection and I am quite excited to review this watch.

Revelot R10 Admiral GMT Army Steel Green - Handsome and Very Capable Watch, A Review (plus Video)

This is my third Revelot watch. I got the R12 and the R11 in the collection. The R10 Admiral GMT is the third diver from the brand but with many firsts. The addition of the GMT complication as well as a new bracelet design with a special micro-adjustment system in the clasp makes the R10 a model that I would like to have in the collection.

To be honest, I should try to get a unit via Revelot’s website. It’s cheaper and there are a number of free gifts thrown in a purchase. However, going to a traditional brick-and-mortar shop is so much enjoyable with physical connection and interaction with the dealers. Unfortunately, one need to wait for sometime after the official launch to see a model in-person at the shops.

All my Revelot acquisitions came from Timekeeper in NU Sentral. They usually do not the whole range for sale as the Revelot only consigned models still not sold out from their webstore. If I recalled, there were only five out of the nine models available. Based on what's available, the green dial (R10 Admiral GMT Army Steel) was chosen.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT Limited Edition SPB409J1 (similar to SPB377J1 & SPB379J1) - A Great Candidate for the ‘Best General Purpose Watch’, A Review (plus Video)

The sub-series Alpinist has been one of my favourites. In the collection, I have the first modern Alpinist, the SARB017, the digital model SBEB013, the modernized SPB117 and a special re-creation, SJE085. 

For the 110th anniversary of Seiko's first wristwatch, the company launched limited edition timepieces in a number of sub-lines. One of the sub-lines is the Alpinist. This new variant comes with an added twist - a GMT movement while still retaining the DNA that makes the Alpinist famous.

Seiko has been vary prolific in 2023 when it comes to GMT functionality. A number of new models with their new GMT movement was launched throughout the year with a lot of positive feedback. The Alpinist was also given the GMT option.

I decided to get the silver dialed version which is a limited edition design withhas a total circulation limit of 3,000 units. I got it from AWG Mid Valley

Tudor Black Bay Pro Watch M79470-0001 (Similar to M79470-0003 and M79470-0002) - The Ultimate Adventure Watch, A Review (plus Video)

I was back in Scotland to send my son to university and to commemorate the occasion I decided to get myself a watch. Originally my target was something else but as luck would have it, my eyes fell on the Tudor Black Bay Pro.

It happens that the Rugby World Cup was on and in one of the British tabloid I was reading there was a full page advertisement featuring the Black Bay Pro as Tudor was the official timekeeper for the games. I was instantly drawn to the watch as it reminded me of one my grail watch, the Rolex Explorer II.

Although this model was launched in 2022, I did not give it much thought as Tudor in Kuala Lumpur was getting as snotty as its bigger brother Rolex. Most watches in the boutique was only for display purposes and if interested, must sign up under a list to wait for a call from Tudor. However, in Scotland, the AD is first class and all models were available. Had a great experience. Got the watch plus a very elegant walnut watch box for six slots. 

 

This is not my first Tudor. In the collection, I already have a Heritage Black Bay and the Pelagos Titanium. This is the first of the brand that comes with a GMT complication. 

Seiko Prospex SFK003J1 Sea Sumo Solar GMT Green (similar to SFK001J1) - Additional Benefit of Solar and GMT, A Review (plus Video)

After launching a number of watches with just minor changes from previous offerings, earlier this year Seiko presented a new refreshing watch with a number of firsts. Based on the common "Sumo" design, these new SFK series uses a new movement that is both solar-powered and features a true GMT (i.e. local jumping hour) function.

As usual, there wasn't any fanfare for the launch. The market only started to noticed when bloggers and watch journalists started to write about it. To be honest, I only found out about it mid-February 2023. Even then, the Seiko website for the Malaysia region does not list the watch. Nevertheless, the global Seiko website has the watch listed. Meanwhile, the watch is now available at all the dealers in Malaysia. 

I already have the SBDC003 (the first generation Sumo) and the SPB103J1 (the third generation Sumo). To be honest I am not sure whether we can quantify the SFK003J1 as the fourth generation Sumo. Despite it having similar shape, dimension and concept (diver watch), the use of a different type of movement and having an additional GMT function may put this model in a class of its own.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK Sports Style Blue Dial SSK003K1 (similar to SSK001K1 and SSK005K1) - Not a Progeny of the SKX, A Review (plus Video)

When news came out a few months ago about the possibility of Seiko introducing a new movement with a GMT complication for its entry level Seiko 5 Sports line, there was genuine excitement in the air. The concept of a GMT is not unique in the watch world but to have a new automatic GMT movement designed specifically for an affordable range series is unprecedented. Current GMT movements are in a price range generally higher than a typical Seiko 5 Sports. Ability to introduce a GMT complication in a cheaper movement opens a whole lot of possibilities.

Moreover, to make the deal even sweeter, Seiko decided to incorporate its famous SKX diver series (c. 1996 - 2019) design philosophy in the new SSK series. Due to Seiko's new product classification guide, the new SSK does not have some of the key specifications loved by SKX's legion of fans. This break away from the iconic SKX could influence your views regarding the SSK.

Of course I will have to acquire one for the collection. Of the three available, I decided to choose the blue dial version, the SSK003K1. I made my order through my trusted dealer and he delivered.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMT SBGM247G (similar to SBGM245G) - The Right Size, A Review (plus Video)

I love GMT watches. The practicality of that specific complication is very useful to me especially when travelling (which I do a lot). At last count, I have 19 analogue GMT watches in the collection. Out of those, three are from Grand Seiko and all powered by Spring Drive movements (SBGC201, SBGE033 and SBGE001).  

When Grand Seiko announced a few months ago that they are planning to launch a GMT powered by a traditional automatic movement, I became interested. I was intrigue to know what kind of design philosophy that Grand Seiko will use as an inspiration for this new timepiece. Will it be similar to the previous Spring Drive models or will it be totally different?

Thankfully, the design for the SBGM247G (for ease of reference, in this review we shall just call this watch the SBGM247 minus the 'G') is different than what came previously. Surprisingly, the size is more representative of the Heritage Collection i.e. in the 40-ish mm width range instead of the typical 44-ish mm range of the Sport Collection. A lot of Grand Seiko owners have commented that the current batch of models under the Sport Collection is a tad to big. It is good to know that Grand Seiko took note of the comments and acted upon it.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G Sports Collection (similar to SBGC203G) - Quintessentially Seiko, A Review (plus Video)

As a collector, the Grand Seiko brand sits in the a unique class of other exclusive brands, Swiss and non-Swiss that exudes excellence of design and styling. Some would even say that it is the top brand out of all other brands. Regardless how one would rank the brand, everyone would agree Grand Seiko watches are first class.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G Sports Collection on my wrist

Squale 30 ATMOS Blue/Red Vintage GMT Ceramica Reference 1545GBRVC - Quality Control Issues, A Review (plus Video)

I have been looking at the various models offered by Squale in the last few years. There are a number of very interesting designs that I would like to have. However, I never got around acquiring one, until recently.

One of Squale's famous design is the Reference 1545 diver series. This series was first introduced by Squale back in the 1960s. There are a number of slight variations to choose from. I decided to find one with the following criteria: no Rolex or Mercedes hands; sapphire crystal with no magnifying cyclops, ceramic or sapphire inserts for the bezel and jubilee bracelet. Lo and behold, Squale released a model that fit my requirements perfectly. The Squale 30 ATMOS Blue/Red Vintage GMT Ceramica Reference 1545GBRVC is the latest model introduced by Squale.

Made in Switzerland and powered by a Swiss Made automatic movement with quickset GMT and date functions, this is the first black dial GMT model featuring a two-tone blue/red ceramic bezel with engraved caramel coloured 24 hour markers.

I found the watch on offer by Gnomon Watches out of Singapore and I immediately made a purchase. Within a few days, the watch was on my table.

Vulcain Cricket Dual-Time Reference 100105.019M Silver Dial Stainless Steel Bracelet - Mechanical Alarm Icon, A Review (plus Video)

I have always fancied a mechanical alarm wristwatch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox Alarm and the Vulcain Cricket series of alarm watches are two options that I wanted to add into the collection. However, the price points of these watches are too high for my wallet. It was just a stroke of luck that I happened to be in one of my favourite ADs in Kuala Lumpur which was keen to release their Vulcain stocks for an insane discount.

Vulcain is not well-known in Kuala Lumpur. Unlike other mainstream Swiss brands, Vulcain is deemed to more 'American'. This was due to its association with former United States President Harry S. Truman, who wore one of their watches and helped inspire the brand’s reputation as “the watch for Presidents”. Vulcain milked it aggressively and even initiated a gift programme of a Vulcain watch to every seating President of the United States since to propagate the notion that it is the watch of choice for any holder of the office. For more insight of this sub-story, please refer to the a special section at the end of this review.

I decided to choose the Vulcain Cricket Dual-Time Reference 100105.019M to be a new member of the collection as this is the most basic of the mechanical alarm examples available (also the cheapest). This particular model has the silver dial with stainless steel bracelet.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT Reference AL-555LNS4H6 Sunset Blue - My Example has a Quality Issue, A Review (plus Video)

I saw Gnomon Watches of Singapore putting up for sale the Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT last month. I tried getting one but was unsuccessful. Recently, the merchant re-listed another one under the series, the reference AL-555LNS4H6 nicknamed Sunset Blue. I quickly made my order and within 24 hours it was on my desk.

On Gnomon Watches, the watch was listed at USD1,080.00. The MSRP is EUR1,295.00. I was able get it for RM4,674.11.

The watch is a tonneau shaped watch casing with hidden lugs, two crowns, boxed crystal, leather strap, three hands, GMT function and date wheel.

The watch has a vintage feel to it. For those of you that prefer the classic look, the Pilot Heritage GMT has all the trappings.

Alpina has a long history of watch making. It had its golden age and it also suffered under the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s and early 1980s. Close to collapsing, Alpina was able to weather the storm and today, the brand is revitalising its name with many interesting offerings. To read more about the brand, please refer to the book about Alpina at the end of this posting.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time White Dial SBXB047 (SSE047) Titanium with Ceramic Bezel Watch – Excellent timepiece with real world applications, A Review (plus Video)

After the Astron was re-launched back in 2012, I finally got myself an Astron for the collection. The delay in getting one was due to the fear factor I get with new technologies – will they actually work? Moreover, when the first batches of Astrons with the 7X Series Calibers installed were on sale, there were a number of issues highlighted by owners. Predominantly, problems surrounding the power usage and the lack of battery capacity were reported. These feedbacks from consumers prompted Seiko to redesigned the GPS module and come out with the latest 8X Series Calibers which eliminated issues that were brought out.

Before we go straight into the review, it would be good to clear up the reference codes used for this series. The Astron is a Made-In-Japan watch line. However, it is not strictly defined as a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) as it is sold globally. Nevertheless, in true Japanese manufacturing quirkiness, this series has been earmarked with the “SBXB” code when in Japan while the rest of the World has been allotted the “SSE” code. The numerical part of the overall reference code remains the same. Therefore SBXB047 is in fact the SSE047.

SEIKO Prospex Marinemaster Professional Spring Drive SBDB011 GMT – A Good Tool Watch With Some Quality Control Issues, A Review (plus Video)

You have guessed by now that I am a dive watch freak. One of my favorite dive watch brands is the Seiko Prospex series. Under this series, I have watches with water rating either at 200 meters, 300 meters or 1,000 meters. However, I do not have in the collection a Seiko Prospex diver with an intermediate water rating of 600 meters. Currently, Seiko has two sub-models with 600 meters water rating; the SBDB011 and the SBDB013. Both this sub-models uses the innovative Spring Drive movement by Seiko.

I decided to go for the SBDB011 to complete the set as it has a number of extras that the SBDB013 do not have. The first is the all-titanium construction including bracelet and second is the GMT complication. With this piece in hand, I would just about complete my collection of bracelet Prospex Marinemaster divers (there are still a few more to go but slowly but surely). Picking the winner is the simplest act, what came next was much harder.

The SBDB011 is a fully made in Japan (or JDM) model. It is the replacement model for the SBDB001 which was first launched back in 2005. Launched on 8 August 2015, the SBDB011 has a number of improvements over its predecessor. The new changes will be highlighted later in the review.

Grand Seiko GMT Green Dial Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGE033 (SBGE033G) - An excellent timepiece, A Review and Video

My first watch purchase for 2016 is this Grand Seiko GMT Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGE033 which has a beautiful green dial. This watch was specially made in honour of the 55th anniversary of the Grand Seiko, the most famous premier line for the Seiko Watch Company.


Grand Seiko quietly released this sporty new GMT watch, the SBGE033 without the fanfare it had with the 62GS Historical Collection back in 2015. This subtle marketing strategy is very common with  Seiko. The Company believes it is unnecessary to promote an excellent product. The product will naturally promote itself, if it was designed and made to impress by its sheer effectiveness and quality.

I believe this is one of the only few sporty watches under the Grand Seiko line of watches (excluding dive watches). Granted there are a lot of GMT Grand Seikos but this is the only one with a contrasting chapter ring colour compared to the dial (white on green). It also has luminous hands and markers which are not seen before on its GMT watches.

Apart from the GMT hand, there are two other additional complications such as a date function in an aperture at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator located near the 7 o'clock position.

It is powered by the in-house 9R66 caliber, the GMT version of the Seiko's Spring Drive Technology 9R65 movement. More about this later.

The case is made of stainless steel. With a 41 mm diameter case, the surface has been given a special hand finishing technique known as Zaratsu. Only 500 examples of this watch were made.

The Grand Seiko SBGE001 Spring Drive GMT – A Beautiful Watch in All Aspects, A Review

Another week of so will be 1 April 2015. It is also April Fools Day as well as the birth date of my first child. For avid watch collectors in Malaysia, it is also a day when the country formally introduces the Goods and Services Tax of GST. When I was looking it up, I was surprised to note that Malaysia is one of six countries in the world that have yet to introduce GST. As it is, by 1 April 2015, all watch purchases will come with an additional GST charge of 6%.

So, in view of this additional cost in funding my WIS addiction, I did what every WIS would do. Get another piece before the tax free window closes! The piece that would forever remind me of this momentous occasion is a watch brand that I have yet to get into the collection – The Grand Seiko SBGE001 Spring Drive GMT.

 

This time around I got this piece by negotiating with an authorized dealer, AWG in Kuala Lumpur. I was able to get a price that is even better than the internet merchants such as Higuchi and Seiya (more about this later). As the watch is not in stock, the shop needs to make an order and by agreeing to a price at this point, I guess they are willing to give a lot away from the difference between merchant price and retail price. After three weeks of waiting, the watch was delivered.

Since this is the first time I have a Grand Seiko (let’s call it GS for short) in the collection, I would like to spend some time on the packaging.