Head-To-Head: Beyond 1969 - A Three-Way Showdown of Iconic 1970s Heritage Chronographs

Following my deep dive into the automatic chronograph revolution of 1969, my collecting journey as a statistician and financial analyst has naturally extended into the late 1960s and 1970s—a golden era of racing, flight, and space-age industrial design.

 In my previous writeup, I highlighted three specific models as the ideal next chapter for expanding a 1969/1970s heritage chronograph cluster. Today, we are putting those three exact timepieces from my collection head-to-head in a standalone showdown: the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium Limited Edition (Ref. CAW218E.FC6565) (alongside the Carrera Glass Box), the Tissot Heritage 1973 Limited Edition (Ref. T124.427.16.031.00), and the Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph Mark II (Ref. 327.10.43.50.01.001).

Head-To-Head: The 1969 Trinity - Unlocking the Holy Grail of Automatic Chronographs

If you have been following my horological journey, you know that my appreciation for watch collecting went into full bloom back in 2010. From my career perspective as a statistician since 1990, an actuarial analyst since 1992, a financial analyst since 1994, and a financial engineer since 2008, I bring an analytical eye to technical specifications, movement architecture, value-for-money, and historical design ethos.

In the entire history of horology, no single year holds more legendary status for chronograph enthusiasts than 1969. It was the watershed year when three independent, competing horological factions simultaneously unlocked what was long considered the Holy Grail of mechanical watchmaking: the automatic chronograph movement.

Those three historic factions were:

1. Zenith, which unveiled the high-beat El Primero.
2. Seiko, which introduced the Caliber 6139—the world’s first automatic chronograph featuring both a column wheel and a vertical clutch.
3. The Project 99 Consortium (Heuer, Breitling, Buren-Hamilton, and Dubois Depraz), which developed the micro-rotor Caliber 11 "Chrono-Matic".

To mark the 50th anniversary of that momentous 1969 race, members of all three historic groups released special commemorative timepieces. After acquiring the tribute models from Seiko and Hamilton, I was finally able to complete my personal "1969 Trinity" with the addition of the Zenith Revival.

Today, we are putting these three 50th-anniversary milestone chronographs from my collection head-to-head: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A384 (Ref. 03.A384.400/21.C815), the Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary "Panda" Limited Edition (Ref. SRQ029J1 / SBEC005), and the Hamilton American Classic Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition (Ref. H51616731).

Head-To-Head: Grand Seiko's Chronograph Evolution - Spring Drive versus Mechanical Mastery; SBGC201G versus SLGC007G

Grand Seiko has established itself as a titan of watchmaking, renowned for its exceptional finishing, innovative technology, and deep connection to Japanese aesthetics. The two watches reviewed—the Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G and the Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G—represent two distinct pinnacles of the brand's craft, separated by five years of evolution. One is a powerful, feature-packed hybrid sports watch, while the other is a refined, high-beat mechanical statement piece.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glass Box Limited Edition Middle East (MEIA Limited Edition) CBS2218.BA0048 - Comfort, Balance, and Visual Drama, A Review (plus Video)

I have been looking at the TAG Heuer Carrera series for some time now. In particular, the modern interpretation of the Carrera Chronograph with the so‑called “Glass‑box” crystal has always appealed to me. The way the sapphire crystal curves seamlessly into the case, evoking vintage chronographs from the 1960s, gives the watch a strong sense of heritage while still feeling contemporary. It was very much a piece I hoped to acquire at some point in the future.

Unexpectedly, my dealer at the local TAG Heuer boutique reached out to inform me that they had been allocated a very special model to promote for a few days only. This was a Middle Eastern exclusive limited edition, with just three units made available to them. The watch in question was the Carrera Chronograph Glass Box Limited Edition Middle East (MEIA Limited Edition), reference CBS2218.BA0048.

To be completely honest, I was not in the market for a new watch at that time. I had other financial commitments that required my attention, and purchasing another timepiece was not something I had actively planned for. That said, there were several distinctive elements of this particular model that immediately piqued my interest. Beyond the already‑appealing glass‑box crystal, the use of Eastern‑Arabic numerals gave the dial a unique regional identity that felt both culturally meaningful and visually striking. The green colourway—rich, deep, and tastefully executed—added another layer of appeal, setting it apart from more conventional Carrera variants.

The fact that it was a chronograph only strengthened its attraction for me. Chronographs have always occupied a special place in the Carrera lineage, and this model felt like a thoughtful blend of historical inspiration and modern execution. The exclusivity of the piece, combined with these design choices, made it increasingly difficult to ignore.

In the end, without overthinking the decision too much, I decided to pull the trigger and bought it.

Longines HydroConquest Chronograph Automatic Blue Dial Reference L3.883.4.96.6 - Sporty Diver, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got a Longines watch for my collection.

I was on a trip to the UK to attend my daughter's graduation ceremony. It has been my tradition to buy myself a watch to commemorate such events. A few days before the ceremony, I visited the Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet to see what watch shops were there and what brands and models they carried.

The only interesting shop I found was Hour Passion, which carries a number of Swiss brands. The Longines section was prominent, but it did not carry the most recent models. I later found out that by accepting this limitation, the shop is free to offer deep discounts that other Authorized Dealers (ADs) may not be allowed to give. For this shop, the standard discount is 30% off the MSRP.

My eyes fell on the blue HydroConquest Chronograph on a bracelet. I knew this model had been phased out in 2023. After further negotiation with the dealer, I received an additional 10% off the already discounted price.

Before making the purchase, I contacted a dealer friend in Malaysia to find out if it was a good deal. While the MSRP would be cheaper in Malaysia due to different tax structures, the discounts offered in the UK were so deep that the deal was very palatable. Sweet!

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Automatic Datsun 240Z Limited Edition SRQ057J1 (similar to the regular-production SRQ055J1) - Linking Two Giant Japanese Brands, A Review (plus Video)

Another Seiko Speedtimer has graced the collection. This time around, it is a collaboration between Seiko and the precursor of the Nissan Motor car company of Japan, Datsun. This collaboration has some meaning to me as the car my wife had when we first got married more that 30 years ago was a red Datsun 130Y.

 

I also bought this particular Speedtimer as its has a design feature that is actually quite contemporary to most brands but seldom seen on a Seiko automatic chronograph - a tachymeter scale set on the bezel instead of on the chapter ring. More about this later.

 

The colour combination, with black being the dominant colour and a touch of red, blue and polished steel gives the watch character that is not too blatant yet subtle. 

 

To be honest, I am kind of hooked into chronographs at the moment and when the SRQ057J1 was announced, I felt the need to get one.

RED STAR 1963 Bullhead Chronograph Mechanical Watch - Vintage-Inspired Boldness with Surprising Ergonomics, A Review (plus Video)

My first purchase on AliExpress. I have heard a lot about Chinese made watches found on the website with really incredible prices. I decide to check it out for myself by registering my account on the platform. Then it dawned on me - why not try getting a vintage looking watch that I adore - a bullhead chronograph.

In the collection I have the following bullheads: 

Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph; Citizen Promaster TSUNO Chronograph; Seiko 5 Sports SSA171J1; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Titanium SBEJ003; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Spring Drive SBDB005; Laco 1925 Squad Atacama Ninja;

and Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph.

 

The ST1901 powered bullhead chronograph from Red Star fit the bill and I started searching for it. I found one with a sub-RM1,000 listing from a active seller on the platform. I swiftly ordered and waited patiently for the watch to arrive. For more on the first-time experience, I have dedicated a section on this towards the end of this review.

I recently got a ST1901 powered Chinese watch. The 

Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch uses the same movement. In the Red Star, the movement has been realigned so that the crown and pushers are now at the top side of the watch instead of the right side of the casing.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G - A Masterpiece of Precision and Natural Beauty, A Review (plus Video)

In 2023, Grand Seiko introduced its first mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph, the
SLGC001G. The name Tentagraph  was an amalgamation of its several properties: ten beats per second, three-day power reserve, and automatic chronograph.

The model is not a limited edition timepiece but it may as well have been one as units allocated to Malaysia were very limited. I suspect the reason was more because of its high price point. At RM60,600 per piece, Grand Seiko has decided to priced it at a level never seen before. I suppose, distributors may have been nervous to commit as the demand for such watches at these new prices was unknown then.

Now, after two years, for 2025 we see the first expansions of the Tentagraph lineup with two new models. The first, the Evolution 9 SLGC007G Tentagraph, is pretty straightforward. Similar to the first Tentagraph, but with a light blue main dial with the brand's iconic Iwate texture and black sub-dials The second chronograph is from the Sports Collection and has the aggressive "Tokyo Lion" design language, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G.

At the moment, only the SLGC007G is available. After a quick inspection I decided to get it.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition Reference M25827KN-0001 - A Purpose-Driven Wearing Experience, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got myself a Tudor chronograph with the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition.

Over the past few years, I’ve been methodically curating my Tudor collection, prioritizing versatility and functionality. It began with the Black Bay (3-hand, stainless steel), a quintessential dive watch that balances heritage design with modern reliability. Its sunburst black dial and gilt accents became a daily staple. Next came the Pelagos (3-hand, date, titanium), a technical marvel with its lightweight titanium case, helium escape valve, and luminescent matte dial—perfect for deeper dives and extended wear. The Black Bay Pro (3-hand, date, GMT, stainless steel) followed, offering a rugged travel companion with its practical GMT function and bold yellow accents. Despite this growing lineup, one complication remained absent: a chronograph.

Tudor’s chronograph options are split between the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, each with distinct personalities. The Black Bay Chrono leans into vintage aesthetics with its panda dials and domed sapphire crystal, while the Pelagos FXD series embraces a more avant-garde, tool-watch ethos. My research kept circling back to the Pelagos FXD, specifically its fixed lug design and its case crafted from carbon composite and titanium. This material combination not only reduces weight but also enhances durability, resisting corrosion and scratches far better than traditional metals.

Another deciding factor was the collection’s balance. The existing Pelagos and Black Bay Pro already cover diving and GMT needs, so the FXD Chrono’s sporty character filled a gap perfectly. The fixed lugs, while limiting strap customization, reinforce the watch’s purpose-built identity, and the cycling-themed case-back engraving adds a touch of storytelling I couldn’t resist.

Securing the watch felt like a small victory. After weeks of contacting authorized dealers, I found one willing to offer a competitive discount, rare for a model with such niche appeal. 

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Bronze Limited Edition Reference 125583 - Vintage Charm with Modern Sophistication, A Review (plus Video)

I have been eyeing the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph in bronze for a couple of years now. On display at the AWG shop in Mid Valley, every time I visit the shop, I saw it slowly gaining patina on the bronze surface. I was very intrigued by the monopusher concept but the bronze material for the casing was a stumbling block.

Recently, AWG was refreshing their stocks and decided to put a ridiculous sale price for the model. The discount was so substantially that I can reconsider even with the bronze material.

As the watch was made in 2020 and was quietly sitting in the shop for 5 years, I had to make sure that it was in working order before taking ownership. It worked flawlessly and I still get the two year warranty by the brand. Sweet!

After making the necessary paperwork, the first Montblanc watch joined the collection.

Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition ST1901 - A Near-Perfect Watch for its Price, with Overall Appeal and Historical Significance, A Review (plus Video)

The first watch to join the collection in 2025. The Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot has been said to be a watch that any watch collector should consider adding. The history behind the watch is inspiring especially if one considers going into the watch making business from scratch.

 

Despite having been a collector for many years, I did not get a chance to pursue this model until now. While going through Amazon, I happened to find the page by Seagull and on it is an offering for the Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition ST1901.

 

To be honest, I would not have gotten my hands on an original but a reissued modernized timepiece by the same factory is possible and would be awesome. The offer was very enticing. Coupled with a few coupons that I have with Amazon, I was able to get the watch at an unbelievable price after discount.

 

I quickly put in an order on 3 February 2025 and exactly two weeks later, I got the watch via courier.

Omega Speedmaster "Silver Snoopy Award" 50th Anniversary Reference 310.32.42.50.02.001 - Celebrating a Piece of History, A Review (plus Video)

The Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary watch was officially launched on 5 October 2020. Since the four years of launching, I have only seen one with my own eyes. I was made to understand the delivery of these watches has been slow. It didn't matter to me as I didn't think I would be in the position to own one.

 

Recently, I was contacted by the Omega Boutique in Kuala Lumpur that a small gift is being prepared for me. When I got it, it was a box filled with a plush toy in the form of the beagle Snoopy as well as a cryptic message that read; "In 14 seconds your beagle will safely land in Malaysia. Please contact your omega Boutique sales associate to collect your Speedmaster 'Silver Snoopy Award' 50th Anniversary timepiece. See you soon!"

 

What a cryptic message. Did Omega just gifted to me the Speedmaster Snoopy? I immediately called them and Omega clarified that I have been chosen to be given the opportunity to buy the Snoopy. Only the plush toy is free!?! After 24 hours of thinking about it, I decided to get one.

 

For transparency, I love the Omega Speedmaster chronograph design that comes with 3 sub-dials. Currently in the collection, I have the Reduce 3150.50, the Mark II 327.10.43.50.01.001 and the Moonwatch.

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium Limited Edition Ref. CAW218E.FC6565 - Iconic Style, Modern Technology and a Comfortable, Lightweight Feel, A Review (plus Video)

The first TAG Heuer to grace the collection. It took me sometime to decide to get one. As a fan of Formula One, I note that TAG Heuer is a major sponsor of The Red Bull Racing Team and the watch associated with the Formula One champion, Max Verstappen is the Monaco series. When TAG Heuer decided to launch the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium in 2024, I was hooked and the time was right for me to get one.  

This particular watch is a striking new addition to the iconic Monaco collection, blending the vintage charm of motorsport with modern craftsmanship. This timepiece, launched in the later half of 2024, stands out due to its use of titanium and a bold racing green dial. It is also a limited edition model. 

I visited a number of authorised dealers around Kuala Lumpur before I decided togo to the TAG Heuer Boutique in The Gardens Mall to get one.

This particular model is a limited edition timepiece with only 1,000 units made available. Due to reasons only known to the manufacturer, this watch does not have a serial number that signifies its number within the batch of 1,000 units. Instead, it has a typical running serial number nomenclature used by TAG Heuer manufacturing. More about this later.

Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Military Beige Reference BRV294-BEI-ST/SF - Character and Functionality, A Review (plus Video)

To be honest, I only have one Bell & Ross watch in the collection. The BR02-92 Pro Diver was a watch I bought more than a decade ago. I just cannot appreciate the square shape of typical Bell & Ross design. Back then, the Instrument line was the primary series of watch sold under the brand. The BR02-92 Pro Diver was different as it more of a cushion shaped watch and fits my taste.

When Bell & Ross launched the Vintage line, I started to be intrigued by the brand. The classic and contemporary design is more acceptable to me and the options available are equally good. The bicompax chronograph design is the one I like but the pricing was not enticing enough.

Recently, one of my dealers ended his shop's relationship with Bell & Ross. He still has a number of the brand's timepieces but they were no longer covered by the manufacturers' warranty. In effect, these timepieces are considered NOS (or 'new old stock'). As the warranty is no longer available and there is no watch-box, the dealer gave a 40% discount as well as a special dealership warranty (similar cover as with any Bell & Ross watches).

One of the watches available is the BR V2-94 Military Beige. I like the vintage vibes it gave and I decided to get it.

 

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with White Lacquered Dial 42 mm Steel-on-Steel Reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 - A Story of Space Exploration, of Craftsmanship, and of Timeless Style, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got my Moonwatch. On hindsight, it was lucky for me to have waited this long to get my hands on a Moonwatch Professional. Due to the long wait, this beauty, the Moonwatch with lacquered white dial became part of the repertoire of Omega and hence gave me more options.

My journey in ownership of the Moonwatch Professional had a number of detours which made this acquisition a long time in coming. Prior to this purchase, I was able to get the Speedmaster Reduce and later the Speedmaster Mark II. I though I will be satisfied with these two but in actual fact it fueled my demand further. The Moonwatch Professional is a mechanical winding watch whereas the Reduce and the Mark II are not.

 

When the watch was made available in March 2024, I was interested due to the white dial. I love white dial watches and I have quite a number in my collection. It will take sometime before units be made available for Malaysia. My trusty dealer at the Omega Boutique was keeping an eye out for me and when a unit became available, she immediate informed me.

Unfortunately, Omega Boutiques in Malaysia can no longer offer discounts. I had to purchase the watch at retail price. Nonetheless, my dealer did compensate me with gifts to sweeten the deal.

Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph Mark II Reference: 327.10.43.50.01.001 (Heritage Model, similar to Reference: 327.20.43.50.01.001) - In my view, the most beautiful Speedmaster, A Review (plus Video)

Finally pulled the trigger on an Omega Speedmaster. Not a Moonwatch but something much more sexier (IMHO), the Mark II.  

I have always loved the Mark II. This series by Omega has a very interesting backstory and development but has never taken on the same level of enthusiasm as the Moonwatch. In fact, in the last five years, supplies of Mark II was not made available to authorized dealers in Malaysia despite being listed on the website. When I went around asking about availability, a number of dealers indicated that Omega 'no longer makes' the Mark II.

The last dealer I asked about this watch took the effort to contact Switzerland to inquire availability and surprisingly, Omega confirms that the Mark II is available and can be shipped to Kuala Lumpur. It didn't take me long to commit to one. After putting in the paperwork to order one (plus a deposit) on 23 January 2024, I finally received the watch on 27 February 2024.

I already have the Speedmaster Reduce (click here for review of that watch). Using this as a comparative reference, I find the Mark II to be better designed. Having the tachymeter scale internally instead of externally, allows for a bigger dial hence making it less ‘busy’ on the eyes.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Panda’ 1972 Chronograph Re-interpretation Limited Edition Seiko 100th Anniversary SRQ049J1 (similar to SRQ047J1) - Wears Well and Look Nice, A Review (plus Video)

Seiko's repertoire of iconic designs from its past have been a good source of reference for new launches. For its 100th anniversary, a new watch has being introduced following the same line of the classic 1972 Seiko 6138-8020 Panda Chronograph.

Back in 2019, Seiko launched the Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ029J1. This watch was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Caliber 6139. When launched in 1969, it was the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. I was lucky to get a unit for the collection, the number 766 out of 1,000 examples.

For the SRQ049J1, I got the number 333 out of 1,000 examples. I also got an additional leather strap with the watch-box.

Although it appears there are a lot of similarities between the newer SRQ049J1 and the older SRQ029J1, there are also some differences. Further into the review, I will go through through the subtle differences in detail.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III Limited Edition Reference H32876550 - An Ingenious Solution, A Review (plus Video)

The Jazzmaster Face 2 Face is a unique series by Hamilton. First launched in 2013, the series have gotten a reputation that has split the watch community. Although having two faces is deemed positive, the case design has the complete opposite effect to watch aficionados. 

Already in the collection is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II. When Hamilton came out with the version 3, I was delighted as the design was more in-lined with what I felt needed to be changed in version 2. Having a horizontal oval shaped watch casing on the version 2 alienated a vast majority of watch enthusiasts. The revised version 3 corrected that problem as a round casing is more acceptable to most fans.

 

In early 2023, Hamilton launched the version 3 in the form of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III Limited Edition. Only 999 units were made available and I had to wait for sometime before an allocation was allotted to Malaysia. I made my order and waited for about a month before a call came in to collect the watch. What was told to me by the dealer that only three units were allocated to Malaysia. I am so happy that I got one of them.

Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Blue Dial Reference T137.427.11.041.00 (similar to White Dial T137.427.11.011.00) - Pressed All The Right Buttons, A Review (plus Video)

When Tissot announced the launch of the Chronograph PRX in March 2022, I was elated. I already got the PRX automatic and it worth the investment. Adding a mechanical chronograph function in the PRX line is just icing to the cake. I really want to get one. After making a few inquiries in Kuala Lumpur, I was told that the model will be released to dealers in August at a MSRP of RM7,400.

As it happens, I was scheduled to go for a trip to UK in mid-June. Tissot announced that the model will be released in the UK around the same time. Although I wasn’t hoping to find one, luck was with me on this. I found one in a UK jewellery chain in Dundee (actually, it’s branch in Inverness got one so they had it shipped to the Dundee branch for me). After a few days I finally got my hands on one. 

Do note that the price I paid for this watch is higher than the list price in Kuala Lumpur after taking into consideration foreign exchange conversion from GBP to RM. Nevertheless, I am willing to pay the premium just to have the experience dealing with a Scottish jeweler for the very first time.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition SRQ035J1 (or SBEC007 and similar to SRQ037J1 or SBEC009) - The Leather Strap Combo is Best, A Review (plus Video)

On 29 September 2021, Seiko issued a press release introducing the Speedtimer Series consisting of six models. A limited edition automatic, a standard automatic and four solar quartz timepieces. I was most interested in the limited edition automatic as it has my favorite dial colour, white.

As usual, my trusty vendor at the Seiko Boutique in Mid Valley messaged me that a few units have been made available at the shop. After making the necessary booking, it took me another week before I can picked it up from the store. As I imagined, the watch was impressive in the flesh. It has the heft and looks imposing without much effort.

The SRQ035J1 is a limited edition timepiece. Only 1,000 units will be produced. Although it come standard with a bracelet, the watch box also included an additional leather strap. 

The Speedtimer series was created in honour of the innovations Seiko did back in 1969 when the first Speedtimer was released. Strictly speaking, it is not a homage to a vintage design as the genesis of this new edition was in fact a stopwatch.