Thursday, February 15, 2024

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Panda’ 1972 Chronograph Re-interpretation Limited Edition Seiko 100th Anniversary SRQ049J1 (similar to SRQ047J1) - Wears Well and Look Nice, A Review (plus Video)

Seiko's repertoire of iconic designs from its past have been a good source of reference for new launches. For its 100th anniversary, a new watch has being introduced following the same line of the classic 1972 Seiko 6138-8020 Panda Chronograph.

Back in 2019, Seiko launched the Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ029J1. This watch was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Caliber 6139. When launched in 1969, it was the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. I was lucky to get a unit for the collection, the number 766 out of 1,000 examples.

For the SRQ049J1, I got the number 333 out of 1,000 examples. I also got an additional leather strap with the watch-box.

Although it appears there are a lot of similarities between the newer SRQ049J1 and the older SRQ029J1, there are also some differences. Further into the review, I will go through through the subtle differences in detail.

The Series

In November 2023, Seiko released a press release about the launch of the Prospex Speedtimer Panda series. Seiko will make them available from December 2023 onwards. The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph series is a two model set with the white dial model, the SRQ047J1, a standard production model, while the grey dial model, the SRQ049J is a limited edition model with just 1,000 examples.

Besides the flipped dial colors, both models have the same specifications. The stainless steel case measures 42.0 mm in diameter and 14.6 mm tall. The casings are paired with a newly designed nine-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. Both watches are powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 8R48.

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SRQ049J1
Limited Edition, 1,000 pieces
MSRP RM13,500

SRQ047J1
Standard model
MSRP RM12,600

Although I am more drawn to the panda version, I decided to get the reverse-panda version. This is because it is a limited edition timepiece and I already have a panda in the form of the SRQ029J1.

The Watch

Size-wise, the SRQ049J1 is larger than the iconic 1972 Panda. Nevertheless, it shares some of the icon's case design like the tall sloping polished bezel, broad polished case side, and the short highly tapered lugs. Coupled with the plunger-type pushers and a simple engraved case-back, the whole package does give out that 1970s vibe. Despite its size, it does wear nicely on my 6.75 inch wrist.


The watch has a three sub-dial layout instead of the two vertically aligned sub-counters of the original 1972 'Panda'. The dial has three major and one minor apertures punched through where the sub-dials and the date window are placed. 

The SRQ049J1 has a dark grey dial, with three sub-counters painted in silver with circular texture. All sub-counters where major and minor line and number markers are painted in black. The chronograph sub-counters are at 9:00 for the 30-minute counter and at 6:00 for the 12-hour counter. The sub-counter at 3:00 shows the seconds hand for the watch. The sub-hands for the chronograph sub-counters have orange tips while the seconds hand has a black tip. The primary chronograph seconds hand also has a orange tip.

The primary hours and minutes hands have stripes of LumiBrite painted to provide some illumination in the dark.



There are three timing scales on the watch. The Tachymeter scale is located on the slopping chapter ring, the sub-seconds scale is located on a silver ring at the edge of the dial and the applied hour markers with LumiBrite paint is set next to the silver ring. 

The brand is applied on the dial while the Prospex logo and the word 'AUTOMATIC', 'JAPAN' as well as some production codes are painted in white. As the dial is already ‘busy’ with lots of things going on, the addition of the texts may actually contribute towards increasing the complexity of extracting information. 

The circular aperture at 4:30 for the date wheel is well placed and the use of a negative date wheel helps reduce any colour discrepancy on the dial.

 

Capping the dial is a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. By having a dual-curved crystal, Seiko was able to eliminate any magnifying effect when viewing the dial at any angles. Note also from the photo above, the edge of the crystal is beveled and extend slightly beyond the fixed bezel. This increases slightly the risk of side impact damage to the crystal.


Seiko uses plunger-type pushers to engage the chronograph functions. The pushers as well as the crown are located on the right of the casing. The design has that vintage vibe. The crown as well as the pushers are sterile without any markings. I wished Seiko took the effort to mark the top of the crown as well as the pushers with something graphical such as the the letter 'S' or the Prospex logo considering the unit price of this model.


Seiko fits these models with an intricate nine-link stainless steel bracelet design. This is the first time I've seen this design on a Seiko watch. Essentially, it is a pair of jubilee-style polished links running together through wider conventional links. The links are attached together with a pin-and-collar system. Like a traditional Jubilee bracelet, this new Double-Jubilee bracelet is equally flexible.

The watch also comes packaged with an additional black leather strap with a signed deployant clasp.

My only comment regarding this is the lack of a pass-through lug holes to ease strap changes. Perhaps Seiko can also introduce a quick-change spring-bar system for the bracelet and black leather strap (on hindsight, having a quick-change spring-bar system instead of the traditional spring-bars limits the choices for aftermarket straps). Another option if Seiko provides a tool with the watch-box to make the transition easier.


The screw-down case-back is solid and provided with a number of information about the watch. At the center, the brand is etched prominently. Underneath the casing is the Caliber 8R48, an automatic chronograph movement equipped with a vertical clutch and column wheel. This in-house movement vibrates at the 4 Hertz frequency, with an escapement made lighter and stronger by the use of MEMS technology.

 Below is a snapshot of the watch in the dark.

 

The casing has been rated 100 meters of water resistance.

The Comparison

In the collection, I have the following automatic chronographs that can be used to compare against the SRQ049J1. These are: SRQ029J1, SRQ031J1, SRQ035J1, SBDC001 and SRQ025J1. The closest is the SRQ029J1 and SRQ035J1. I have decided to exclude the SBDC001 from the comparison table below as it comes from the Transocean sub-series of Prospex.

SRQ049J1
  • Limited Edition, 1,000 pieces
  • MSRP RM13,500
  • Three sub-dials
  • Round date aperture 4:30
  • Plunger pushers
  • Bracelet plus leather strap
  • Dual-curved sapphire crystal
  • Sterile pushers & crown
  • Fixed bezel
  • Solid back
  • 8R48
SRQ029J1
  • Limited Edition, 1,000 pieces
  • MSRP RM12,600
  • Three sub-dials
  • Round date aperture 4:30
  • Tube pushers
  • Bracelet 
  • Sterile pushers & crown
  • Box shaped sapphire crystal
  • Fixed bezel
  • Display back 
  • 8R48
SRQ031J1
  • Limited Edition, 1,000 pieces
  • MSRP RM13,800
  • Three sub-dials
  • Round date aperture 4:30
  • Plunger pushers
  • Leather strap 
  • Sterile pushers
  • Logo on crown
  • Bi-directional bezel 
  • Box shaped sapphire crystal
  • Display back 
  • 8R48
SRQ035J1
  • Limited Edition, 1,000 pieces
  • MSRP RM14,800
  • Two sub-dials
  • Square date aperture 6:00
  • Plunger pushers
  • Bracelet plus leather strap 
  • Sterile pushers & crown
  • Dual-curved sapphire crystal
  • Fixed bezel
  • Display back 
  • 8R46

 

The Wearing Experience 

The bracelet is very flexible to the point of being defined as ‘soft’. I would not be surprised that Seiko will start to pair future models with this style of bracelet. I like the way it wears and I do find the watch very comfortable and well balanced. 

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.


I have also added a video of the unboxing so that you can see the standard packaging it came in.

Overall, this watch wears well and look nice.


Specifications

Case Material: Stainless steel (Super Hard Coating)
Case Thickness: 14.6 mm
Case Diameter: 42.0 mm
Case Length: 49.5 mm
Lug Width: 20.0 mm
Dial Colour: Grey
LumiBrite: Lumibrite on hands and indexes
Clasp: Three-fold clasp with push button release
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel standard with an additional calfskin strap with deployant clasp included
Calibre: 8R48 mechanical chronograph with automatic movement and manual winding
Accuracy: -15/+25 seconds per day
Frequency: 28,800 BPH (4 Hertz)
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Jewels: 34
Water Resistance: 10 bar/100 meters
Weight: 183.0 gm
Crystal Coating: Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
Crystal Type: Dual-curved sapphire crystal
Watch Function: Chronograph with 30 minutes & 12 hours, date display, stop seconds-hand function
Serial Number: 333/1000
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m
MSRP: RM13,500
Purchase Date: 5 December 2023
Purchase Price: RM12,150
Vendor: Seiko Boutique, Mid Valley 
Warranty: One (1) year

 

Photo Gallery

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