Head-To-Head: Grand Seiko's Chronograph Evolution - Spring Drive versus Mechanical Mastery; SBGC201G versus SLGC007G

Grand Seiko has established itself as a titan of watchmaking, renowned for its exceptional finishing, innovative technology, and deep connection to Japanese aesthetics. The two watches reviewed—the Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G and the Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G—represent two distinct pinnacles of the brand's craft, separated by five years of evolution. One is a powerful, feature-packed hybrid sports watch, while the other is a refined, high-beat mechanical statement piece.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Mechanical Hi-Beat Diver Watch SBGH289 - A Statement Piece that Balances Toughness with Elegance, A Review (plus Video)

The Grand Seiko dealership in Mid Valley Megamall is having a clearance sale. Many GS watches are available with deep discounts from MSRP. I went to visit to peruse what's available and see if I could find a bargain.

 

To be honest, I do not have a burning desire to get one. Nonetheless, the choices available is still rather extensive. After going through the examples available, my eyes started to drift towards a genre that was my first love when I started my watch collection journey - the dive watch. What is available in the offerings is the SBGH289, with a hi-beat automatic movement.

 

I do have something similar in the form of the SBGA229, powered by a Spring Drive movement. One would immediately assumed the the SBGH289 (launched in 2021) is the same as the SBGA229 (launched in 2017) except for the different caliber movements used. However, there are more subtle changes that can only be noticed on closer scrutiny. 

 

The special price quoted for the SBGH289 is really good and difficult to get anywhere else. After weighing in the options, I proceeded with the purchase of the SBGH289.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion” - Legacy Perfected, A Review (plus Video)

 

I am keen on the Grand Seiko Tentagraph Tokyo Lion Chronograph SLGC009. However, the price for the timepiece is beyond my financial capacity.

 

At a Grand Seiko event a few weeks ago, I was able to express my interest to get a few of their models into the collection. Luck has it that it was heard and I was offered two watches for a special price. What makes the deal sweet is that both watches have two elements that are missing in the collection: The Tokyo Lion watch design and the brand's mechanical manual winding movement. 

 

The Tokyo Lion in question is the Sport Collection Spring Drive SBGA481 which will be the watch being reviewed in this report.

 

There are three styles of Tokyo Lion currently available for fans using the Spring Drive series of movements. There is a chronograph version, a GMT version and the standard 3-hand version. I did not have a free choice but the option that was given to me, the standard 3-hand version is good enough for a start.   

  

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGK009 (similar to SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005 & SBGK007) - Subtle and Sophisticated Character, A Review (plus Video)

The pricing by Grand Seiko is getting very painful to swallow. This is the consequence of the Seiko Group adopting the Swiss business strategy to set the Grand Seiko as a luxury brand instead just a better model compared to the rest of the Seiko lineup. 

To be brutally honest, I do have a Swiss watch bias. If we compare the quality of manufacturing, the polishing and the overall packaging, Grand Seiko shines heads-and-shoulders above contemporary Swiss watches like Rolex or Omega (this is my humble opinion - you may agree of disagree but lets agree that everyone is entitled to their own opinion).

Recently, I was given a - once in a blue moon - opportunity to acquire two Grand Seikos. This first is the SBGK009 which is reviewed here and the second...I am keeping it a secret for now. It will be up on the blog after this review goes out.

 

If you know me, I would take the SBGK005 over the SBGK009 because of the brilliant blue dial of the former. However, having a model with a bracelet option is a better choice to make. Hence, I chose the SBGK009 over the rest.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G - A Masterpiece of Precision and Natural Beauty, A Review (plus Video)

In 2023, Grand Seiko introduced its first mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph, the
SLGC001G. The name Tentagraph  was an amalgamation of its several properties: ten beats per second, three-day power reserve, and automatic chronograph.

The model is not a limited edition timepiece but it may as well have been one as units allocated to Malaysia were very limited. I suspect the reason was more because of its high price point. At RM60,600 per piece, Grand Seiko has decided to priced it at a level never seen before. I suppose, distributors may have been nervous to commit as the demand for such watches at these new prices was unknown then.

Now, after two years, for 2025 we see the first expansions of the Tentagraph lineup with two new models. The first, the Evolution 9 SLGC007G Tentagraph, is pretty straightforward. Similar to the first Tentagraph, but with a light blue main dial with the brand's iconic Iwate texture and black sub-dials The second chronograph is from the Sports Collection and has the aggressive "Tokyo Lion" design language, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G.

At the moment, only the SLGC007G is available. After a quick inspection I decided to get it.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMT SBGM247G (similar to SBGM245G) - The Right Size, A Review (plus Video)

I love GMT watches. The practicality of that specific complication is very useful to me especially when travelling (which I do a lot). At last count, I have 19 analogue GMT watches in the collection. Out of those, three are from Grand Seiko and all powered by Spring Drive movements (SBGC201, SBGE033 and SBGE001).  

When Grand Seiko announced a few months ago that they are planning to launch a GMT powered by a traditional automatic movement, I became interested. I was intrigue to know what kind of design philosophy that Grand Seiko will use as an inspiration for this new timepiece. Will it be similar to the previous Spring Drive models or will it be totally different?

Thankfully, the design for the SBGM247G (for ease of reference, in this review we shall just call this watch the SBGM247 minus the 'G') is different than what came previously. Surprisingly, the size is more representative of the Heritage Collection i.e. in the 40-ish mm width range instead of the typical 44-ish mm range of the Sport Collection. A lot of Grand Seiko owners have commented that the current batch of models under the Sport Collection is a tad to big. It is good to know that Grand Seiko took note of the comments and acted upon it.

Grand Seiko Insulated Double Wine Bottle Carrier - Visually classy but standard material and build

My favourite Seiko dealer gave me this very unusual watch branded accessory from Grand Seiko; an insulated double wine bottle carrier (or should I say Sake?!?). Made out of faux leather in blue, it has the brand beautifully stitched in golden thread. 

Visually stunning but on closer inspection, the materials used and the build quality is just mediocre. Similar to typical ‘door gifts’ corporations make to give away as a form of brand awareness or public relations.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive Air Diver SBGA229G - A Handsome Watch and Due to its Flexibility, Proves it Value Beyond Doubt, A Review (plus Video)

Out of the blue, my dealer sent me a short message that he got allocated one unit of the Grand Seiko Sports Collection Spring Drive Diver SBGA229G (let’s just called it SBGA229 for short). I have been looking at something similar for some time now. The original model I was interested in was the SBGA029. That model was first launched in the market in 2008.

The SBGA229 is essentially similar to the SBGA029. In 2017, Seiko decided to make Grand Seiko an independent brand. Hence, before 2017, the model was called the SBGA029 where the generic ‘Seiko’ tag was still prominent, sharing space with the ‘Grand Seiko’ tag on the dial. From 2017 onwards, only the tag ‘Grand Seiko’ is provided thus the change in reference to the SBGA229. 

I quickly took delivery as I heard from the grapevine that Grand Seiko has stopped production for this particular model (can anyone confirm?).

The Series

For the longest time since the Grand Seiko brand was reintroduced back in 1998, the only dive watches under this brand were the SBGA029 and the SBGA031. The former is made out of stainless steel while the latter is made out of titanium. Only after the rebranding exercise in 2017, Grand Seiko decided to introduce a few other dive watches to expand the range. Even so, the original pair continued to be produced under new designations (replacing the digit ‘0’ with ‘2’). Major differences between the two models are the material (stainless steel versus titanium), weight (201 gm versus 137 gm) and price (RM24,300 versus RM27,900).

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G Sports Collection (similar to SBGC203G) - Quintessentially Seiko, A Review (plus Video)

As a collector, the Grand Seiko brand sits in the a unique class of other exclusive brands, Swiss and non-Swiss that exudes excellence of design and styling. Some would even say that it is the top brand out of all other brands. Regardless how one would rank the brand, everyone would agree Grand Seiko watches are first class.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G Sports Collection on my wrist

Grand Seiko Watch Display Stands

A watch shop I frequent go had an extensive renovation recently. After the project was completed, they had a few display stands they wanted to get rid off. I took them instead for free. Both are branded Grand Seiko.

One is a solid metal Grand Seiko watch stand with the brand on a gold painted plate. This style is suited for both bracelet and strap watches.

Wine Glass by Grand Seiko

A few years ago I bought a limited edition Grand Seiko, the SBGE033 from a road show and the AD was nice enough to also give me a gift with the purchase.

It turned out to be a pair of wine glasses from Seiko with the Grand Seiko brand sandblasted onto the glass surface.

On it are three blue glass bubbles which I can't quite understand the significant of it. Tried searching it on the internet but nothing came out of the search. If anyone has any information, feel free to put it in the comment section below.

Seiko’s Grand Seiko SBGA011 Spring Drive “Snowflake” – The epitome of a classic dress watch, A Review (and Videos)

My love affair with Seiko’s top-end line, Grand Seiko continues. This time I was able to grab a classic Grand Seiko, the “Snowflake” with the reference SBGA011. Like a lot of my watch purchases, it was not planned. I happened to drop in one of my favorite shop to ask about something else when my trusted salesperson informed me a consignment of two Snowflakes to his shop. Within 24 hours I decided to get one.


All Grand Seikos are made at the Shinshu Watch Studio and located in the city of Shiojiri, neighboring Suwa and Lake Suwa in a mountainous region of Nagano Prefecture, Japan. This location is almost the center of the country where the weather is slightly different from the typical coastal areas of Japan. Here, the humidity level is lower which causes winter snow fall to be very light and airy. This allows the wind to sculpt the snow into beautiful patterns not seen elsewhere in Japan.

In recognition of the locality that supported the studio’s operations, the designers and artisans of the Shinshu Watch Studio decided to create a dial which resembled this light snow fall pattern. Hence, the SBGA011 Grand Seiko Snowflake was born. It uses a unique 6 step process to replicate the snowfall in the dial. While the most complex dial in the Grand Seiko line takes 12 steps to complete, this Snowflake still counts as one of the most intricate dials in the family. Moreover, using titanium to make it as light as a snowflake, and blue accents to contribute a cold feel reinforces the Snowflake theme.

Grand Seiko GMT Green Dial Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGE033 (SBGE033G) - An excellent timepiece, A Review and Video

My first watch purchase for 2016 is this Grand Seiko GMT Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGE033 which has a beautiful green dial. This watch was specially made in honour of the 55th anniversary of the Grand Seiko, the most famous premier line for the Seiko Watch Company.


Grand Seiko quietly released this sporty new GMT watch, the SBGE033 without the fanfare it had with the 62GS Historical Collection back in 2015. This subtle marketing strategy is very common with  Seiko. The Company believes it is unnecessary to promote an excellent product. The product will naturally promote itself, if it was designed and made to impress by its sheer effectiveness and quality.

I believe this is one of the only few sporty watches under the Grand Seiko line of watches (excluding dive watches). Granted there are a lot of GMT Grand Seikos but this is the only one with a contrasting chapter ring colour compared to the dial (white on green). It also has luminous hands and markers which are not seen before on its GMT watches.

Apart from the GMT hand, there are two other additional complications such as a date function in an aperture at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator located near the 7 o'clock position.

It is powered by the in-house 9R66 caliber, the GMT version of the Seiko's Spring Drive Technology 9R65 movement. More about this later.

The case is made of stainless steel. With a 41 mm diameter case, the surface has been given a special hand finishing technique known as Zaratsu. Only 500 examples of this watch were made.

The Grand Seiko SBGE001 Spring Drive GMT – A Beautiful Watch in All Aspects, A Review

Another week of so will be 1 April 2015. It is also April Fools Day as well as the birth date of my first child. For avid watch collectors in Malaysia, it is also a day when the country formally introduces the Goods and Services Tax of GST. When I was looking it up, I was surprised to note that Malaysia is one of six countries in the world that have yet to introduce GST. As it is, by 1 April 2015, all watch purchases will come with an additional GST charge of 6%.

So, in view of this additional cost in funding my WIS addiction, I did what every WIS would do. Get another piece before the tax free window closes! The piece that would forever remind me of this momentous occasion is a watch brand that I have yet to get into the collection – The Grand Seiko SBGE001 Spring Drive GMT.

 

This time around I got this piece by negotiating with an authorized dealer, AWG in Kuala Lumpur. I was able to get a price that is even better than the internet merchants such as Higuchi and Seiya (more about this later). As the watch is not in stock, the shop needs to make an order and by agreeing to a price at this point, I guess they are willing to give a lot away from the difference between merchant price and retail price. After three weeks of waiting, the watch was delivered.

Since this is the first time I have a Grand Seiko (let’s call it GS for short) in the collection, I would like to spend some time on the packaging.