Citizen Series 8 890 Mechanical NB6060-58L (similar to NB6069-53H and NB6066-51W) - It is Reliable as it is Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)

Citizen is ramping up their mechanical watch game. A new sub-series under the brand Series 8 line was launched in March 2024. The 890 is the fifth sub-series to be launch (the other sub-series are the 830, 831, 870 and the 880). I am fortunate to have in the collection the formal 831 NB6010-81E and the adventure GMT 880 NB6031-53E. 

For the last decade I seldom took the time to explore Citizen’s offerings. Then, Citizen was more incline to promote their Eco-Drive technology. With the success of Seiko and other brands that focused on mechanical movements in terms of sales and brand awareness, Citizen has started to explore this market space. As a fully integrated manufacturer, this should not be a problem for them. The renewed focus on mechanical watches has produced a number of interesting timepieces. The Series 8 is one such line dedicated solely to mechanical movement.

The 890 is the first dive watch range under the Series 8 line. It is interesting to note that Citizen’s designers chose an internal bezel design to kickstart their dive series. I suppose they wanted something different from the more recent 880 design which has a typical external bezel.

 

Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black Reference GL0311 (similar to GL0309, GL0310, GL0312, GL0313, GL0314 & GL0315) - A Touch of Nostalgia and Coolness, A Review (plus Video)

This is the second Glycine example in the collection. The first was the Glycine Combat 6 Vintage GL0122 which I got in May 2019. That particular Glycine is from the Combat range. The second Glycine is also a vintage inspired design. The historic Glycine SST collection is one of the most coveted vintage timepieces by the brand and Glycine has decided to relaunch it with some modern improvements. This particular timepiece is from the Airman range.

 

The Glycine SST GMT series was officially launched in 2021. It was listed on Gnomon Watches Singapore then but I did not get it as there were other priorities and the price was rather on the high side. It was only during the Christmas season of 2023 that Gnomon Watches Singapore had a special seasonal discount that it became feasible acquisition for me.

With an offering of a 17.1% discount from MSRP, I quickly put in an order. The model I got is the Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black GL0311. Typical of Gnomon Watches Singapore packaging service, I received the package four days later.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT Limited Edition SPB409J1 (similar to SPB377J1 & SPB379J1) - A Great Candidate for the ‘Best General Purpose Watch’, A Review (plus Video)

The sub-series Alpinist has been one of my favourites. In the collection, I have the first modern Alpinist, the SARB017, the digital model SBEB013, the modernized SPB117 and a special re-creation, SJE085. 

For the 110th anniversary of Seiko's first wristwatch, the company launched limited edition timepieces in a number of sub-lines. One of the sub-lines is the Alpinist. This new variant comes with an added twist - a GMT movement while still retaining the DNA that makes the Alpinist famous.

Seiko has been vary prolific in 2023 when it comes to GMT functionality. A number of new models with their new GMT movement was launched throughout the year with a lot of positive feedback. The Alpinist was also given the GMT option.

I decided to get the silver dialed version which is a limited edition design withhas a total circulation limit of 3,000 units. I got it from AWG Mid Valley

Oris ChronOris Date Black Dial 39 mm Reference 01 733 7737 4054-07 5 19 45 - A Well Proportioned Watch, A Review (plus Video)

My first Oris. I have thought that it would be the one of the 'Sixty Five's but instead the ChronOris Date has the honour to be the first in the collection.

As of May 2022, Oris' website does not list any ChronOris Date as it is deemed as a 'Previous Collection' series (it also implies that Oris no longer producing them). Not a lot of write-up about the watch but what is available has a lot of favourable things to say about it.

 

A common misconception that stems from the name is the lack of a "chronograph" complication in the watch despite implying it in its model name. Moreover, as a reinterpretation of one of Oris' classic design of the 1970s, the ChronOris Date have so many differences that one wonders what was the brand actually trying to achieve. Anyway, more about it later.

In reality, there are only two dial design with a number of bracelet and strap options. I decided to get the black dial version with distressed leather strap for the collection. The reference for this combination is the 01 733 7737 4054-07 5 19 45. 

Orient Mechanical Revival Watch World Map Diver Forest Green Dial RA-AA0E02E (similar to RA-AA0E03L, RA-AA0E01S and RA-AA0E04Y) - A Modern Vintage, A Review (plus Video)

To commemorate the Orient's 70th anniversary, the Revival Collection has been created which offers modern reinterpretations of iconic Orient watch models from the brand’s past. At this moment, Orient has the King Diver, SK Diver, and the Retro Future Camera models issued under this collection. The latest offering is the World Map Diver.

In 1969 the first Orient Map Dial World Diver was created. The watch featured an eye-catching multi-colored world map and a 24-hour time display.

In February 2021, Orient launched the World Map Diver to honour the 1969 iconic design under the Revival collection. There are four models to choose from and I chose the green dial RA-AA0E02E for the collection.

To be honest, I wanted the limited edition RA-AA0E04Y model as this is as close to the original in design. Unfortunately, all were sold out before I could get my hands on one.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono H77906940 (similar to H77916920) - This Watch Does Have The Look, A Review (plus Video)

I have been eyeing the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono ever since it first debut back in 2016. Granted the special complication that the watch was designed for would not be useful to me, I was taken more by the beauty of the design than anything else.

The number of pushers and crowns on the watch intrigues me. Having two inner bezels as well as an external bezel in a watch appears to be an overkill. Nevertheless, the watch has a few ingenious use of the moving parts of the watch to do rather complex computations. In reality, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono (the X-Wind for short) is a mechanical computational device that is already obsolete when computers are already taking over the same job and more. 

Looking passed the question of efficiency, you start to appreciate the way form and function designed into the watch would be able to do such calculations. To me, what makes this watch desirable is the way a mechanical 'calculator' has been made to look like a brilliant piece of art. The X-Wind should be in the collection.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB117J1 (similar to SPB119J1, SPB121J1 & SPB123J1) - An All-Rounder, A Review (plus Video)

The Seiko Alpinist is a living icon. It was a series of watches designed in 1959 for Japanese mountain climbers and it started with the Laurel Alpinist. Today, the most famous of all the Alpinist and a cult classic, the SARB017 is the face of the series. In early 2018, devastating news came out from Seiko when it announced the end of the production for the SARB017. The fans were disappointed to say the least and Seiko was inundated with countless request for a stay of 'execution'. This caused a spike in the price of SARB017 still available with dealers as well as prices in the second hand market.

In late 2019, Seiko announced a new set of Alpinist with upgraded specifications slated for worldwide delivery starting January 2020. The fans were elated as Seiko decided to offer four different models. Three areas of improvement over the predecessor are in the movement, the crystal and the case-back. More about these things later. It is also important to note that all the models are made in Japan.

I was presently surprised that Seiko Japan allocated a number of units from the initial batch to Malaysia. My AD called to asked whether I would like to have one and I quickly agree to get one. Since I already got the SARB017 (click here to go to that review) with the deep British racing green dial, I chose the black dial version with bracelet, the SPB117J1.

Hamilton American Classic Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition Reference H51616731 - A Great Tribute Watch, A Review (plus Video)

Recently, I was fortunate to get my hands on a 50th anniversary timepiece from Seiko that commemorates the brand’s first automatic chronograph movement launched in 1969. The Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ029J1 was made in honour of the Seiko Caliber 6139. It was a major milestone for Seiko but it also was part of a gigantic battle by big watch makers to come out with the first truly automatic chronograph. In fact, three competing designs were launched in 1969 by the three competing teams. The first team was Seiko, the second team was Zenith and the third team consists of Breitling, Heuer, Buren-Hamilton with the help of Dubois Depraz. I am happy to note that I also just gotten my hand on the 50th anniversary timepiece to commemorate the third team’s first automatic chronograph movement, the Caliber 11 Chrono-Matic. The Hamilton American Classic Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition is the timepiece that Hamilton would like to remember that momentous event.

Like the Seiko commemorative timepiece, the Hamilton design is actually an interpretation of a 1972 model called the Chrono-Matic E GMT Countdown instead of a model designed in 1969 (Seiko chose a 1970 model instead of a 1969 design for their commemorative timepiece). Nonetheless, it was a great choice by Hamilton as the Chrono-Matic E is a classic and much sought after by collectors today.

Orient Automatic King Master Reissue WV0021AA JDM (similar to WV0011AA and WV0031AA) - JDM Classic, A Review (plus Video)

In 2015 Orient created a re-issue of its iconic Three Star King Master watch of the 1960s. There were three models in the series but all have been classified as JDMs. As such, you are only able to source it from Japan. Official information on the series is only via Orient's Japanese website.

I have been eyeing the watch for a number of years now. I happen to find one listed on Amazon via one of its affiliate merchant for a reasonable price. Given the choice, I would have picked the blue dial version but the black with gold trimming does hold its own appeal. After a few key strokes, the WV00021AA was on its way from Japan to Malaysia.

Since it was first launched until the date of this review, there was not much written about this series. The lack of access was one of the contributing factor to the minimum coverage. I do believe reviews have been written in Japanese but since I and a lot of other people don't read the language, information remains sparse.

Seiko Prospex Automatic Field Watch Green SRPD33K1 (similar to SRPD31K1 & SRPD35K1) - A Refreshing Adventure Watch, A Review (plus Video)

The first time I visited Tokyo years ago, I bought myself the Seiko SARB017 Alpinist, a very refined gentleman’s classic sports watch. Over the years, Seiko has come out with modern interpretations of the Alpinist with contemporary hands and markers. Everything else, such as the location of the crowns (the primary time adjustment and winding crown and the internal bezel controller crown) remains the same at 3 o'clock and 4 o'clock, respectively. Last year, Seiko stopped the production of the SARB017 Alpinist.

I also got in the collection the Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster SBDC011, another sports watch with a Tuna casing and compass complication. For this model, the bezel is external but it has some interesting graphics on its case-back. This has some bearing to the watch I will be reviewing in this posting.

For Baselworld 2019, Seiko launched a new series of land-base sports watches under the Prospex line. The SRPD31K1, SRPD33K1 and SRPD35K1 series is a refreshed evolution of the Alpinist. Although Seiko does not accord the Alpinist nickname to this new series, the resemblance is obvious. Moreover, there are some elements of the Fieldmaster incorporated as well. Out of the three models, I chose the SRPD33K1for the collection. More about the rest of the models at the end of the review.

The series is definitely targeted to the global mass market. It does not have a "J" suffix which would indicate the manufacturing was done in Japan. Instead, this series is manufactured in the many Seiko manufacturing facilities all over the world, apart from Japan. Hence the suffix "K".

Vulcain Cricket Dual-Time Reference 100105.019M Silver Dial Stainless Steel Bracelet - Mechanical Alarm Icon, A Review (plus Video)

I have always fancied a mechanical alarm wristwatch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox Alarm and the Vulcain Cricket series of alarm watches are two options that I wanted to add into the collection. However, the price points of these watches are too high for my wallet. It was just a stroke of luck that I happened to be in one of my favourite ADs in Kuala Lumpur which was keen to release their Vulcain stocks for an insane discount.

Vulcain is not well-known in Kuala Lumpur. Unlike other mainstream Swiss brands, Vulcain is deemed to more 'American'. This was due to its association with former United States President Harry S. Truman, who wore one of their watches and helped inspire the brand’s reputation as “the watch for Presidents”. Vulcain milked it aggressively and even initiated a gift programme of a Vulcain watch to every seating President of the United States since to propagate the notion that it is the watch of choice for any holder of the office. For more insight of this sub-story, please refer to the a special section at the end of this review.

I decided to choose the Vulcain Cricket Dual-Time Reference 100105.019M to be a new member of the collection as this is the most basic of the mechanical alarm examples available (also the cheapest). This particular model has the silver dial with stainless steel bracelet.