Monday, April 15, 2024

Citizen Series 8 880 Mechanical GMT NB6031-56E (Similar to NB6030-59L & NB6032-53P) - Has Wrist Presence, A Review (plus Video)

It was in June 2023 when Citizen announced a new series under the Series 8 line. This new sub-group is designated the '880'. I already have the NB6010-81E under the 831 sub-grouping. For this new sub-group, Citizen is introducing a new automatic movement, the Caliber 9054, that has a GMT complication. What is more importantly, the series is catered as a field watch instead of a dress watch of the previous Series 8 lines (831, 830 and 870).

The new design is very refreshing and incorporate a lot of key designs that helped the Promaster line (a range under Citizen) become famous. The addition of a timing bezel as well as a GMT complication increased the functionality immensely. 

Personally, I love the watch due to the integrated bracelet design. It looks elegant and sophisticated. Moreover, it is not often that Citizen comes out with an automatic watch powered with a new movement. In this case, the Caliber 9054 with the GMT function is new to the collection and I am quite excited to review this watch.


The Series

There are three models under the series. These are (1) NB6030-59L, stainless steel, blue dial with blue and red bezel; (2) NB6032-53P, two-tone gold-coloured stainless steel, gold-tone dial with chocolate and cream bezel; and (3) NB6031-56E, stainless steel, black dial with black and blue bezel. The bezel style is similar yet unique to the Pepsi, Root Beer and Batman of Rolex.

The NB6032-53P is a limited edition piece with only 1,300 example made and priced (MSRP) at RM8,610 or USD1,795. The other two models are standard production models and priced (MSRP) at RM8,120 or USD1,695. All three models were officially presented to the world in June 2023 and was made available for sale in September 2023.

This series need to be viewed in-person to truly appreciate its beauty. From pictures, the blue dial version is very handsome and was my first choice. However, in-person, the black dial version is perfect as the blue version appears dull to me. Hence why I chose the black dial version, NB6031-56E. 

At this juncture, I would like to comment on what I found out about Citizen marketing strategy with regards to this particular series. Apart from the obvious MSRP differences in the various regions, Citizen also differentiate the duration of warranty. In North America, the warranty period is 5 years but in Asia it is only 3 years. Why is there discrepancy? 


The Watch

Made out of 316L stainless steel, the design follows another direction from the current set of Series 8 models. More contemporary in design, its lines is more akin to dive watches although this is not what it was intended for. Nonetheless, it looks and feels very robust with multiple angles and alternating brushed and polished sections throughout. The integrated bracelet concept incorporated in the design gives that additional classy vibe to it.  
 


The watch has a case diameter of 41.0 mm with a height of 13.5 mm. The lug-to-lug length after taking into consideration the fixed central link that connects the case to the bracelet is 53.3 mm. However, due to the integrated bracelet design, the equivalent length to contemporary watch is approximately 47.0 mm. As such, it is a large watch and those with smaller wrists may find issues wearing it.

The dial on the watch is black with a texture or pattern inspired by the Tokyo skyline and the windows of its skyscrapers. Due to the three dimensional aspect of the pattern on the dial, you can see different shadows as light hits the dial at different angles. The chapter ring is straight walled and has a mirror polished surface.

There is one scale at the edge of the dial that has the applied hour markers and white lined minute markers. The applied hour markers are polished and fitted with luminous inserts. At 3:00, a square aperture has been cut replacing the hour marker in that position for the date complication. The aperture is framed in polished steel and through it, one can see the black background date wheel.

There are five lines of texts on the dial, all printed in white except for one which is printed in orange. The brand is the sole text on the upper quadrant while the rest are at the bottom quadrant. Only the word "GMT" is printed in orange. The primary hands are polished obelisk-like hands with middle section covered with luminous paint. The seconds hand is needle-like also polished but without any luminous paint. Meanwhile, the GMT hand is arrow-like. The arrowhead has a frame painted in lighter orange with the center covered by luminous paint while the rest of the stem is black.
 


Protecting the dial is a flat, AR-coated sapphire crystal. The top of the sapphire juts out slightly beyond the edge of the bezel. Citizen did beveled the edge of the sapphire to reduce sharpness and help minimise side impact damage.

The bezel on the NB6031-56E is bi-directional with a simple friction fit ratcheting system. Base on my reckoning, there are 60 positions for a complete rotation (either way). The bezel has a blue and red bezel insert with Arabic numbering and line markers. I believe the insert is protected by a thin glass-like material to give it that mirror look. In fact, on close inspection and touch, the bezel insert does not feel metal at all.



Located at 3:00 of the casing is the unsigned crown. There is no crown guard nor is it a strew-down crown. Citizen has decided to incorporate a push-in/pull-out crown system for the watch. Despite this rather simplistic system, the watch is water rated to 100 meters.



Citizen uses a screw-down case-back with display window. Visible through the sapphire window is Citizen’s in-house produced Caliber 9054. This automatic movement, which can also be wound by hand, is a true GMT movement. This means that you can adjust the local hour hand in hourly increments. Simply set your home time before you leave, and when you enter a different time zone, pull out the crown to its first position and set the hour hand to the correct position. The date switches accordingly in both directions. Doing this does not stop the seconds hand.

The Citizen Caliber 9054 is a relatively new movement for the group. It operates at a rate of 28,800 BPH and has a power reserve of about 50 hours. It also designed to withstand magnetic resistance of up to 16,000 A/m. The Caliber 9054 uses 24 jewels.

As the NB6031-56E is a high-end model of Citizen, as seen via the display window, there is Côtes de Genève texturing on the rotor and main-plate. Straight from the factory, the watch is regulated to run within a deviation of -10/+20 seconds per day, but on average, it will perform well within those limits.



The integrated H-Link bracelet is the star of the show. The brushed surfaces as well as the edge of each surface has been given a bevel to reduce glaring and sharpness. The tapering of the bracelet is visually pleasing providing a great fit and feel on the wrist. Although sizing could be an issue as there are no micro-adjustment points on the signed clasp, Citizen does provide two half-links.



Below is the view of the watch in the dark.




The Wearing Experience

In my opinion, the Citizen Series 8 880 is one good-looking timepiece. The colours on the bezel, the design of the casing and bracelet all combined into a watch that looks sophisticated and looks well beyond the price point it's selling at. Below is a set of photos that hopefully can convey that message.



For reference, my wrist has a 6.75 inch circumference. Below is the watch on my wrist.

 

The watch has wrist presence. It looks solid and the integrated bracelet projects strength. 

Specifications

Brand: Citizen
Model: Series 8 / 880 Mechanical GMT
Reference Number: NB6031-56E 
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Thickness: 13.5 mm
Length: 53.3 mm
Lug Width: 11.0 mm
Weight: 160.0 gm
Case Material: Stainless steel case, brushed and polished
Dial Color: Black with pattern inspired by the Tokyo skyline
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel three-link bracelet, brushed and polished 
Crystal: Sapphire with AR coating at the front and sapphire at the display case-back
Bezel: Bi-directional rotating bezel with black & blue insert
Crown: Pull-out system
Caliber: Citizen 9054
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone (true GMT indication)
Power Reserve: ~50 hours
Winding: Automatic (can be hand-wound)
Frequency: 28,800 BPH
Jewels: 24
Accuracy; Regulated to an average of -10/+20 seconds per day
Magnetic Resistance: 16,000 A/m
MSRP: RM8,120
Purchase Price: RM6,090
Purchase Date: 29 December 2023
Vendor: AWG Mid Valley
Warranty: Three (3) years
Serial Number: 382680040

Photo Gallery

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1 comment:

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