Wednesday, July 6, 2022

Citizen Series 8 - 831- Automatic NB6010-81E Cal. 9051 (similar to NB6010-81L & NB6012-18L) - A Wholesome Design, A Review (plus Video)

I have not been closely following Citizen unlike the other major Japanese watchmaker as their offering of mechanical watches are rather limited. Nevertheless, 2021 has become a promising start for the brand as a number of mechanical watches was introduced to the market including new movements.

The realization that avid watch collectors (predominantly) are into mechanical timepieces is starting to dawn on Citizen. Although there is a vast majority of users into the practicality of quartz controlled timepieces, these group seldom buy watches as often as the hardcore avid watch collectors.

Better late then never. The skillset that is part of the Citizen Watch Group is more than sufficient to come out with spectacular watches and sophisticated mechanical movements to wet the appetite of the market.

The latest offering by Citizen is the Series 8, a set of new models clustered in a few subgroupings.

I have decided to get one of the the 831 mechanical series to the collection.

Citizen Series 8 - the 830, the 831 and the 870 Subgroups

The current Series 8 is a relaunch of the initial offering back in 2008. These are JDM models, only available in Japan. This time around, Citizen has decided to make the latest set of Series 8 available worldwide.

The latest Series 8 consists of three subgroups. The premium of the subgroup is the 870. Currently there are three models under this subgroup. This subgroup is less sharp and angular than the rest. It uses the newer Caliber 0950 movement. Two comes with bracelet while one comes with a rubber strap.

Model: NA1000-88A
MSRP: YEN220,000
Caliber: 0950
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Model: NA1004-87E
MSRP: YEN220,000
Caliber: 0950
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Model: NA1005-17L
MSRP: YEN209,000
Caliber: 0950
Power Reserve: 50 hours

The middle range subgroup is the 830. Currently there are two models under this subgroup. This has an complex octagonal architecture for the case with multi-layer dial. It too uses the newer Caliber 0950 movement. One comes with polished surface while the other has a coated surface.

Model: NA1010-84X
MSRP: YEN198,000
Caliber: 0950
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Model: NA1015-81Z
MSRP: YEN209,000
Caliber: 0950
Power Reserve: 50 hours

Finally, the entry level Series 8 subgroup, the 831. Currently there are four models under this subgroup. This subgroup is an understated version of the 830 with a more traditional dial. The overall case shape is identical and so is the bracelet. However, the case is only 10.1 mm in height (11.7 mm for the 830), due to the simpler architecture of the dial and the different movement used, the caliber 9051. Three models come with bracelet while the fourth comes in leather strap.
 
Model: NB6010-81A
MSRP: YEN132,000
Caliber: 9051
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Model: NB6010-81E
MSRP: YEN132,000
Caliber: 9051
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Model: NB6010-81L
MSRP: YEN132,000
Caliber: 9051
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Model: NB6012-18L
MSRP: YEN132,000
Caliber: 9051
Power Reserve: 42 hours

Note the price difference (from Citizen's Japanese website) between the Caliber 0950 and the Caliber 9051 powered models.

The Watch

The 831 is made out of stainless steel and has an octagonal case with an integrated (somewhat) bracelet. With a width of 40.0 mm, length of 40.0 mm (as measured) and height of 10.1 mm, the watch is sized for most wrist sizes. 
Citizen has two primary design scopes for the watch; to be “functional and practical” with “a modern and sporty look". I believe Citizen was able to achieved the stated goals. The 831 does have that daily-oriented with a modern sports watch look. Coupled with the multi-faceted surfaces on the casing with an integrated bracelet, it has immediately has a stamp of uniqueness that is visually obvious. 
The surface on the watch casing is characterised by wide, flat planes with sharp edges that give it an angular, slightly 1970s look. The well protected crown is also another welcomed design edition to the watch. Moreover, the combination of brushed and polished surfaces and a mix of round bezel and angular central cases with has that evergreen appeal that I personally like.

The NB6010-81E has a black dial. It is hard to see in passing but in close inspection the dial is made up of a two-step construction. The lowest level is the center. The first step-up is a ring that partially sits under the hour markers. Due to the golden line shading to half of the ring (the other half is white line shading), visually, it looks like there is another step-up in the dial surface. This is a nice visual trickery.

The hour markers are large applied rectangular polished steel pieces with faceted edges. The 12:00, 6:00 and 9:00 markers are wider, doubled the size of the others and with a slit in the middle. Due to the addition of the date aperture, the hour marker at 3:00 is shorten somewhat. All hour markers have a section painted with luminous paint (closer to the dial edge). Meanwhile, the date aperture is not framed. For balance, the date wheel has a white background. 
On closer inspection of the white line shading at the edge of the dial, it can be discerned (barely) that the lines are sub-seconds markers i.e. 1/5 seconds increments. To be honest, I note sure what's the purpose for incorporating such a scale for this watch. A standard minute scale would be sufficient.

There are four lines of texts on the dial. The applied brand is located at the upper quartile while the rest are on the bottom quartile. The sub-series name, 'Series 8' and the word, 'AUTOMATIC' can be easily seen. The words, 'MADE IN JAPAN' and some manufacturing codes are very small and printed close to the edge of the dial.
The hands on the watch are simple stake-like in design with the inner part painted with luminous paint (hours and minutes hands only, none on the seconds hand). 

The dial is protected by a flat piece of sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Despite the octagonal shape of the casing, the dial opening is round which gives it a hybrid feel of a classy dress watch and a sports watch all-in-one. The fixed bezel ring (shaped like a disk) is polished and sits high above the octagonal casing. As the wall of the bezel ring is not straight but curved, it can trap gunk and such underneath the overhang. 
The well-protected crown is another key design feature of the 831. Located at 3:00, the 'T' shaped crown is protected by two faceted shoulder extensions. With the crown seating neatly against the casing, the two shoulder tabs that is screwed into the main casing protects the crown completely on both sides of the horizontal plane. Due to the 'T' shaped crown, it is easy to pull it out to engage the gears if you want to readjust the time and date.
The screw-down case-back is one solid stainless steel plate. It is a pity the Citizen decided against putting a display window to see the automatic movement. Moreover, I am also disappointed that Citizen did not decorate the base-back with any etchings apart from some key information about the watch. Anyway, underneath the case-back is the new Caliber 9051 automatic movement by Citizen. The 9051 uses anti-magnetic materials for the balance spring and surrounding components to boost the overall magnetic resistance of the watch. It is capable of maintaining performance even when placed one (1) cm from a device emitting a magnetic field of 16,000 A/m. With 24 jewels, the 9051 has a stated accuracy of between -10 sec/day and +20 sec/day. The main springs have 42 hours of power reserve.

The lugs are 20.0 mm across. Due to the highly angled lugs, the bracelet appears to be integrated. The flat links are beautifully made. Due to the sharp angles of the surfaces, it does feel sharp at times. It is a pity that Citizen did not tapered the bracelet. As it stand, the bracelet starts at 20.0 mm at the lugs to 20.0 mm at the clasp.
The signed clasp has a twin button release mechanism. There are no micro-adjustment points part from a couple of half-links to help in resizing. Every piece of the bracelet is machined which gives it that solid look.

Below is a photo of the illumination of the watch in the dark.
I like the fact that all the hour markers can be seen in the dark - symmetry!


The Wearing Experience 

I must say that Citizen has designed a very nice watch. Despite the many sharp angles on the watch, the wearer does not feel any discomfort at all. The simplicity of the dial design makes it ideal for practically all occasions. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist (for reference my wrist is 6.75 inches in circumference).


The ability to resize the bracelet could be a problem as the watch only comes with half links without any micro-adjustment holes on the clasp. Nevertheless, even if you have to keep it slightly loose on the wrist, the watch stays relatively stationary on the wrist due to its octagonal case.

My only suggestion is for Citizen to redesign the bracelet to be more tapered.

Overall, I am very satisfied. Citizen growing push to design more mechanical timepieces has been long in coming. I can't wait to see what else Citizen will come out with in the future.


The Buying Experience 

I bought the watch from a new watch shop that has just opened in Mid Valley Megamall. Called 10:10, the chain in part of the AWG group of companies. After some introduction from the holding company, I was given the VIP treatment.


For this watch, 10:10 also gave me a couple of free gifts; a branded folding fan and a set of picnic cutlery. Currently, they do not carry an extensive range of Citizen watches. However, the boss of AWG did tell me that he will as much as possible the full range of Citizen watches in the store.

  


Specifications
 
Country: Made in Japan
Case/Band: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating 
Luminous: Hands and markers 
Dial: Black 
Width: 40.0 mm
Lugs: 20.0 mm
Length: 40.0 mm (as measured) 
Thickness: 10.1 mm 
Weight: 154 gm
Water resistance: 10ATM
Maximum Wrist Size: 200 mm (7.87 in)
Caliber: 9051
Jewel: 24
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Magnetic Resistant: 16,000A/m
Functions: Automatic, manual winding, date, 3-hands
Accuracy: -10 SPD ~ +20 SPD
Launched: 11 May 2021
MSRP: RM5,240 (YEN132,000; USD750)
Purchase Date: 9 June 2022
Vendor: 10:10, Mid Valley Megamall
Purchase Price: RM3,930
Warranty: Three (3) years
Serial Number: 172380086

Photo Gallery

 
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1 comment:

  1. Do you still have this watch? Or would you recommend another today, for the same type and price range?

    ReplyDelete

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