Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving 1000M Auto-Mechanical Watch Reference 816.37.1217 (similar to 816.37.1217H) - A Bold Statement of Engineering and Value, A Review (plus Video)

  My trip to China's mainland in May 2025 was a revelation, whirlwind of futuristic cities, bustling markets and homegrown innovation. Amidst modern streets of Shenzhen, I sought a tangible keepsake to commemorate the journey. 

 

While souvenir shops peddled trinkets, I gravitated toward something deeper: a mechanical watch from a Chinese brand, a symbol of the nation’s growing engineering prowess. After some time of doing research, I found the only boutique by Seagull in Shenzhen. By just using public transportation (the metro), getting to that shop from I was staying was easy and very relaxing. As it is the starting of summer, the air-conditioning was a godsend! It is also makes it sweeter when the cost of public transportation in China is really dirt cheap with extensive coverage.

 

At the boutique, I was surprised the number of models available. There was a large number of watches with tourbillon movements which I have not seen before. While looking at the watches on display, I came across a new series of dive watches called Okeanos. This series is a blend of mythic storytelling, technical ambition, affordability and coupled with Seagull’s 70-year legacy as China’s oldest watchmaker. As the first under the Okeanos series and the first having the 1000-meter water rating for the brand, I settled on the Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving Watch. It made it the perfect memento for my first trip to mainland China. 

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

 

The History of Seagull

The Chinese government launched a national project in the early stages of 1955, with the aim of establishing a watchmaking industry in the northern part of the country. The outcome was the Wuxing (Five Stars), a simple watch that was completely handcrafted and was only produced in very limited quantities, reaching completion on the 24th of March that year.

Several years later, the Sea-Gull Watch Group, which is commonly referred to as "Seagull," was founded in Tianjin, a metropolis of 15 million people. Initially established as the Wuyi Watch Factory in 1958, the company later became known as the Tianjin Watch Factory after relocating in 1962.

It began producing numerous mechanical and electronic movements and currently stands as China's biggest industrial watch and movement manufacturer.

 

The Okeanos Series

 

The Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving Watch (Ref. 816.37.1217) isn’t just a timepiece, it is a manifesto of China’s horological ambition. Born from Seagull’s seven-decade legacy of innovation, this watch which was launched in 2025, challenges Western-dominated luxury dive watch norms with professional-grade specifications at a fraction of the cost. It offers 1000-meter water resistance, a helium valve, and a design steeped in mythology and bio-mimicry. The Seagull Okeanos captures the spirit of the leather-back turtle, the world’s deepest diving reptile. Its design, from the streamlined case to the textured bezel inspired by the turtle’s shell, creates a bold yet refined timepiece. The series also pays homage to Greek mythology and the history and mystery associated with the ocean.

 

Currently, there are two members of the series. Both are made out of stainless steel but one is painted in black with PVD treatment. Both are priced the same at RMB5,800. There are some other differences such as the colour of the seconds hand, the colour strip around the two crowns, the colour of the bezel inserts as well as the colour of some of the texts on the respective dials.

 

Reference 816.37.1217 Case Colour: Silver (polished stainless steel) Additional Strap: Blue NATO canvas

Reference 816.37.1217H Case Colour: Black (PVD over stainless steel) Additional Strap: Black NATO canvas

Strictly speaking, the '70th Anniversary' label put on this watch is not a reflection of the establishment of the Seagull watch company but the starting point of the government project to create a watch making industry in China which started in 1955 (see the history section before this).

The Watch

 

Crafted for the depths yet designed for distinction, the Okeanos’s 45.0 mm 316L stainless steel case redefines what a 1000-meter dive watch can be. Marrying robustness with refinement, its 15.8 mm profile challenges the status quo of ultra-resistant divers, achieving a sleeker, more wearable silhouette than bulkier counterparts like the 18.0 mm Omega Ploprof (please refer to this link for that review). Due to its short lugs, the lug-to-lug length is just 49.0 mm. It makes it a wearable watch although its weight of 218 gm is something that one needs to get used to. 

 

 

In the Okeanos, horological innovation converges with storytelling. Every curve, texture, and hue is a dialogue between myth and biology, yielding a watch that doesn’t merely endure the ocean’s challenges, it embodies its very soul.

 

The Okeanos boldly displays Chinese characters (“中國海鷗”) at 12:00, a rarity among Seagull’s dive watches. This unapologetic branding reflects China’s growing confidence in its manufacturing prowess, contrasting sharply with brands that obscure their origins. The “MADE IN CHINA” dial text is a statement of authenticity in an industry often reliant on Chinese parts but hesitant to admit it. It's also emphasizes the brand’s 70-year legacy of innovation. The absence of excessive clutter reinforces the watch’s purpose-driven design, aligning with its professional diving heritage.

 

The dial of the Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary model is a masterful fusion of technical precision and mythic artistry, designed to embody the mysteries of the ocean’s depths. The dial transitions seamlessly from a deep oceanic blue to an abyssal black, mirroring the twilight zones of the ocean where the leatherback sea turtle, one of the watch’s key inspirations roams. This gradient effect evokes the interplay of light and shadow in underwater environments, creating a dynamic visual depth that shifts with the wearer’s perspective. 

 

The sloping chapter ring is painted in black to have a good contrast with the minute markers painted in white. The applied hour markers are painted with Super-LumiNova BGW9 paint within polished steel frame. It is interesting to note that there are three designed of the hour markers used on the watch: a two-stripe design, similar to a corporal insignia for 12:00, a triangle design for 10:00 and a round shape design for the rest. There is no applied hour marker for 6:00 as the position has been taken over by the date aperture.

 

上等兵 or Upper class soldier

The special hour marker at 10:00 points to the text "He-VALVE" which corresponds to the manual crown that controls the helium escape valve if the watch is used during saturation dives. Apart from the brand written in white using Chinese characters, there is also an applied star in polished steel as well as the text "OKEANOS" in white and "1000m/3280ft" in orange. Right at the bottom of the dial are the words "MADE IN CHINA". The five-pointed star is a recollection of the first  domestically produced watch in China - the "Five Star" brand watch. This was the first domestically produced watch made by China's working class, filling another gap in China's industrial development. It also ended the history of Chinese people only being able to repair watches rather than make them. 

 

The date aperture at 6:00 has an aiming-point feel to it with crosshair and such. Although the aperture replaced an hour marker, as the date wheel has a white background, the visual disruption is not that bad. Do note that the aperture is cut into the dial in steps.  

The broad arrow hands are have polished surfaces with a thick coating of Super-LumiNova paint. Only the thin seconds hand is painted in orange with Super-LumiNova paint at the arrowhead. This ensures exceptional visibility in low-light environments, whether in the depths of the ocean or dimly lit settings. Below is a photo of the watch in the dark. Note the gap at 6:00 which is unfortunate due to the replacement of the hour marker for the date aperture.

 

 

 

Protecting the dial is a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring clarity and durability. The crystal is beveled at the edge and is set slightly higher than the edge of the bezel. This suggest that the crystal may suffer side impact damage.

 

The unidirectional diving bezel has a rather 'busy' design. There's two parts of this bezel, the inner half and the outer half. The inner half has a brushed stainless steel surface with the following stamped texts; 'ROTATING BEZEL', 'PROFESSIONAL DIVING' and 'TESTED TO 1000M' painted in blue except for '1000M' where that text is painted in orange. Note also the faux screw heads on the bezel. On the other hand, the outer surface has embossed timing scales with lines and numbers. As required under the ISO6425 standard for dive watches, a luminous pip at 12:00 is included. In the product specification, it was stated that a ceramic insert was added to the bezel. I would assume this is the part in blue. If this is the case, the cutting machines at Seagull is very good as to be able to fit the ceramic insert through the various embossed markers and numbers. I have not seen any other manufacturer being able to do this yet. Impressive.

 

For reference, the unidirectional bezel moves in 120-clicks before completing one circle. 

 

 

 

The winding crown is located at 4:00 and is protected by a large singular shoulder on one side. The designers added another engraved text in blue "ULTRA DIVING" on the protective block. The crown has a groove cut around the center of the column and painted with orange for ease in locating it in the dark. The screw-down crown is signed at the top. It is large enough to be easily manipulated with gloved hands. 

 

Directly opposite the winding crown at 10:00 is the manual helium escape valve (HEV) crown. Similar in design to the winding crown, the HEV crown is only activated if the watch have gone on a deep dive and requires decompression (just like a human diver) to get rid of the accumulated helium gas inside the casing. 

 

 

 

The lugs are pointed downwards to help the bracelet grab on to the wrist with minimal gaps. Although the watch comes with an extra canvas strap, at first glance, as there are no pass-through lug holes, one immediate imagine that tools will be required to initiate a bracelet change. However, Seagull has made it actually much easier with the addition of quick-release spring-bars on the bracelet. For reference, the lug width is 22.0 mm.

 

As you can see from the photo below, the solid case-back is attached to the main watch casing using screws. The engraved case-back depicts undulating ocean wave with the brand logo at the center. Around this is the name of the series, "OKEANOS" and the date the company was established embossed rather permanently. Apart from this other information, like the serial number and such are stamped on the steel surface. Between each screws, the designers also added strips of coarse texturing to create additional  visual points of interest for the case-back.   

 

 

 

Underneath the case-back lies Seagull’s ST2130 automatic movement, a 28,800 BPH caliber with a 42-hour power reserve. The movement utilizes 28 jewels in the construction. Inspired by the ETA 2824-2 architecture, it delivers COSC-level accuracy (±5 seconds/day in testing) without certification. The movement’s reliability is proven through rigorous pressure and durability tests..

 

 

  

Doubling back on the bracelet, the design is solid and looks strong to face anything. All parts are machined which gives it a luxurious look.

 

 

 

The clasp has six (6) micro-adjustment points to allow as perfect sizing as possible. The clasp has a button lock with an additional safety latch. The latch is signed with the brand name.  

 

 

 

The package also comes with a blue canvas NATO strap with signed buckle. Unfortunately, because of the quick-release spring-bars used on the bracelet, it is difficult to take it out and use it for the NATO strap. Since Seagull did not provide additional spring-bars for the NATO strap, replacing the bracelet may not be that simple. 

 

However, it is also important to note that the quick-release spring-bars can theoretically be released from the bracelet. The nub or handle that you push to release the spring-bar can be unscrewed. However, due to the small size of the nub, once you have unscrewed it, you may have a problem screwing it back on as screw thread for such a small thing is rather fragile. Hence, it would be better to get additional spring-bars just for the NATO strap.

 

The Wearing Experience

 

Wearing the Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary edition blends rugged professionalism with refined comfort. Despite its formidable 1000-meter water resistance and ultra-diving capabilities, the titanium alloy case ensures a surprisingly lightweight feel on the wrist, avoiding the heft typical of professional dive watches. For adventurers, it delivers unwavering reliability; for style seekers, it merges tool-watch durability with the sophistication of a commemorative piece.

In essence, the Okeanos 70th Anniversary transcends its technical prowess to offer a versatile, confidence-inspiring companion—whether conquering ocean depths or making a statement on land. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.

 

 

 

 

Specifications 

 

Brand: Seagull

Model: Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving 1000M Auto-Mechanical Watch
Reference: 816.37.1217

Launch Date: 6 January 2025 (a 70th Anniversary model)

Dial: Blue
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Diameter: 45.0 mm

Thickness: 15.8 mm

Lug Width: 22.0 mm

Lug-to-Lug Length: 49.0 mm

Weight: 218 gm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Case Back: Screw-down case-back featuring the signature Ocean design engraving

Bezel: Unidirectional stainless steel bezel with ceramic inserts and embossed timing markers
Movement: Seagull’s ST2130 automatic movement

Jewels: 28

Frequency: 28.800 BPH

Power Reserve: 42 hours, 
Water Resistance: 1000 meter (100 Bar)

Illumination: Super-LumiNova BGW9

Bracelet: 316L stainless steel with quick release, signed clasp with button release & safety catch
Strap: Additional blue canvas NATO strap with signed buckle

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dive bezel
MSRP: RMB5,800
Vendor: Seagull Boutique Store, Shenzhen, China

Purchase Date: 19 May 2025

Purchase Price: RMB5,000

Warranty: Two (2) years

Serial Number: 2500123

 

 

 

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