Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G - A Masterpiece of Precision and Natural Beauty, A Review (plus Video)

In 2023, Grand Seiko introduced its first mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph, the
SLGC001G. The name Tentagraph  was an amalgamation of its several properties: ten beats per second, three-day power reserve, and automatic chronograph.

The model is not a limited edition timepiece but it may as well have been one as units allocated to Malaysia were very limited. I suspect the reason was more because of its high price point. At RM60,600 per piece, Grand Seiko has decided to priced it at a level never seen before. I suppose, distributors may have been nervous to commit as the demand for such watches at these new prices was unknown then.

Now, after two years, for 2025 we see the first expansions of the Tentagraph lineup with two new models. The first, the Evolution 9 SLGC007G Tentagraph, is pretty straightforward. Similar to the first Tentagraph, but with a light blue main dial with the brand's iconic Iwate texture and black sub-dials The second chronograph is from the Sports Collection and has the aggressive "Tokyo Lion" design language, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G.

At the moment, only the SLGC007G is available. After a quick inspection I decided to get it.

Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M NB6004-83E (similar to NB6004-08E, NB6005-05L, NB6006-02X) - A Dive Watch, A Review (plus Video)

Not many brands can be recognized as a premier dive watch designer. By this I mean brands that can come out with iconic designs that are evergreen and a source for inspiration for many other brands to copy and emulate. Seiko with their Tuna design and Rolex with the Submariner design are such iconic examples. Citizen is one such company that is a member of this exclusive group. Citizen's call to fame is its iconic 1982 Professional Dive Watch 1300m. 

 

In March 2021, Citizen launched an updated modern offering of the iconic 1982 Professional Dive Watch 1300m in the form of the BN0220-16E. This latest rendering is powered by an Eco-Drive module and only has a 200 meter water rating (the original is a quartz engine with 1300 meter of water rating). I was able to get one for the collection (click here to read the review).

Also in March 2021, Citizen quietly announced the launched of the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m series. These watches has the NB600X reference code. This new series is not sold widely around the world. What makes it interesting is that it represents a return to automatic movement-based dive watches by Citizen. The automatic movement introduced by Citizen is a new design and designated the Caliber 9051. The movement is a modern 4Hz frequency mechanism with 42 hours of power reserve. The movement is also highly magnetic-resistant.

 

Seiko Prospex The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJE085J1 Limited Edition - Something Fundamental is Missing, A Review (plus Video)

The first Seiko Alpinist I bought was the SARB017 back in 2013 when I had the opportunity to visit Tokyo, Japan. The link to the review can be found here. Although the Alpinist line is synonymous with the forest green dial and internal map bezel, the genesis of the line - The 1959 Seiko Laurel Alpinist - is dissimilar. 
 
In early 2018, Seiko announced the end of the production for the SARB017. As a replacement, in late 2019, Seiko announced a new set of Alpinist with upgraded specifications slated for worldwide delivery starting January 2020. I then took delivery of the SPB117J1 (click here to read the review). By then, Seiko has been issuing a number of limited edition re-creations of their iconic models and I suspect the original Alpinist will be up for a relaunch in the very near future. I just need to wait patiently.

After 62 years, Seiko finally decided to re-introduced the original via The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation with reference number SJE085J1 but under the Prospex line. Seiko decided against resurrecting the original Laurel line. A pity actually especially after Seiko re-introduced the King Seiko line recently (see the review here).  

I was made to understand that my dealer only ordered one. Earlier, I have already instructed my dealer to immediately put in an order when the watch is available for sale. My dealer executed the order perfectly and he was able to immediately confirmed my booking. I waiting for four months before it finally came.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive Air Diver SBGA229G - A Handsome Watch and Due to its Flexibility, Proves it Value Beyond Doubt, A Review (plus Video)

Out of the blue, my dealer sent me a short message that he got allocated one unit of the Grand Seiko Sports Collection Spring Drive Diver SBGA229G (let’s just called it SBGA229 for short). I have been looking at something similar for some time now. The original model I was interested in was the SBGA029. That model was first launched in the market in 2008.

The SBGA229 is essentially similar to the SBGA029. In 2017, Seiko decided to make Grand Seiko an independent brand. Hence, before 2017, the model was called the SBGA029 where the generic ‘Seiko’ tag was still prominent, sharing space with the ‘Grand Seiko’ tag on the dial. From 2017 onwards, only the tag ‘Grand Seiko’ is provided thus the change in reference to the SBGA229. 

I quickly took delivery as I heard from the grapevine that Grand Seiko has stopped production for this particular model (can anyone confirm?).

The Series

For the longest time since the Grand Seiko brand was reintroduced back in 1998, the only dive watches under this brand were the SBGA029 and the SBGA031. The former is made out of stainless steel while the latter is made out of titanium. Only after the rebranding exercise in 2017, Grand Seiko decided to introduce a few other dive watches to expand the range. Even so, the original pair continued to be produced under new designations (replacing the digit ‘0’ with ‘2’). Major differences between the two models are the material (stainless steel versus titanium), weight (201 gm versus 137 gm) and price (RM24,300 versus RM27,900).

King Seiko KSK SJE083J1 Limited Edition (or SDKA001) - First Class and Carries itself Well Beyond its Price Point, A Review (plus Video)

A century is a long time. In 2021, Seiko will be celebrating its 140th years in operations since it was first established in 1881. To mark this momentous occasion, Seiko has in store a number of new and exiting models. One of the most anticipated release is a revival of one of its famous sub-brand and model, the 1965 King Seiko KSK.

The last time Seiko recreated a model under the old King Seiko sub-brand was in the year 2000 with the launched of the SCVN001 as part of the Seiko Historical Collection of that year. Twenty years later, on 8 December 2020, Seiko announced the second official recreation of the King Seiko line.

This second recreation is designated the SJE083J1 (in Japan the reference is SDKA001). Called the King Seiko KSK, it is based on the 1965 model of the same name. KSK is an abbreviation of the name “King Seiko Kisei-Tsuki”. This special limited edition watch revives the 1965 Reference 44-9990, or the “44KS”. I was fortunate to get my hands on one via my good friend at AWG in Mid Valley.

Casio G-Shock Square Titanium Camouflage GMW-B5000TCM-1JR - The Ultimate Practical G-Shock Square, A Review (plus Video)

I have in my collection two Casio G-Shock squares. The all resin GWM5610BC-1JF and the all stainless steel GMWB5000GD-1ER. You can read a review I wrote on a head-to-head comparison between the two here. It was a long wait for me before I got the metal G-Shock due to the overwhelming demand.

While waiting, in February 2019, Casio announced the ultimate G-Shock Square, the 18 Karat Limited Edition Gold G-Shock 'Pure Gold' G-D5000-9JR. Only 35 pieces will be made and this has an MSRP of YEN7,700,000 or USD70,000. I was definitely interested but the pricing definitely it out of contention.

Around the same time news came out that Casio will also be coming out with a titanium model. What got everyone talking was the expected price point of the new model which has been estimated to be three (3) times more than the standard stainless steel unit. Immediately, a lot of not-so-nice comments were made on social media platforms complaining about this (no one commented much about the price on the Pure Gold version though). Since the pricing is not too exorbitant, I decided to hunt for this as well.

Seiko Prospex Green Sumo SPB103J1 (similar to SPB101J1) - Continuing the Tradition with Further Improvement Possible, A Review (plus Video)

The third generation of the Seiko Sumo divers were recently released during Baselworld2019. The latest iteration has the two biggest changes in the design specification. First was the introduction of the new 6R35 movement to replace the workhorse 6R15 used in the previous two iterations. Second was the use of sapphire crystal instead of Hardlex crystal also used in the previous two iterations.

Unfortunately, this fact was not lost to fans and the demand for the watch went ballistic. Shops practically sold out even before they got the chance to display on their shelves (the pre-order market was just incredible). I tried to get one but I was not high enough on the order list to get one from even the first, second or third batches to be delivered. Not many watches have such a high level of demand upon launching. This could be an indication how this piece be acknowledged 30 years from now.

Sometimes it is good to have relationship with a few authorised dealers instead of just one or two. In this case, the many relationship I made over the years with a few vendors proved invaluable. One of them came through and got an allocation which was quickly set aside for me. Debra of Style Watch, Mid Valley Megamall, a big thank you!!!

Orient Star Sports 200 meter Air Diver Blue Power Reserve Reference RK-AU0302L - Simplicity is Strength, A Review (plus Video)

When Orient announced in August 2019 the launch of their new Sports Collection under the Orient Star brand, I was intrigued. For the last few years, the corporate restructuring involving Orient and Epson has taken a toll on the company's ability to offer new models. Compared to the other two famous Japanese brands such as Seiko and Citizen, during that period, Orient's offering was rather pathetic. However, 2019 appears to be a change. A couple of interesting series have been launched which are very interesting. For this review, I will be looking at the Air Diver series.

At first glance, the Air Diver series which consist of five models appear rather basic. They look like many of the run-of-the-mill dive watches available in the market. However, on closer inspection, these watches have been designed to almost perfect dimensions, able to perform many other tasks beyond being just a dive watch. Of the five models, I chose the sunburst blue dial version with reference number RK-AU0302L.

Although the design is rather contemporary, for Orient, it is a departure from its traditional design philosophy when it comes to dive watches.

Seiko Presage Chronograph 55th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ031J1 (or SARK015 in Japan) - Nostalgia of the Swinging Sixties, A Review (plus Video)

In 1964, Seiko created another historical milestone for the brand when it launched a mechanical chronograph which also happens to be the first for Japan. The watch in question was created to be in time for the 1964 Summer Olympics which happens to be in Tokyo, Japan (more about this later). This year, Seiko decided to commemorate that occasion with the launch of the Seiko Presage Chronograph 55th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ031J1 (or SARK015 if you are in Japan).

Seiko actually launched two limited edition watches to commemorate its milestones in mechanical chronograph movements. Apart from the SRQ031J1, Seiko also launched the SRQ029J1. While the SRQ031J1 honoured the 1964 milestone, the SRQ029J1 honoured the 1969 milestone instead. The 1964 milestone is Seiko's first manual winding chronograph while the 1969 milestone is Seiko's first automatic chronograph, the 6189.

I already have the SRQ029J1 in the collection (please click here to go the full review) and the acquisition of the SRQ031J1 completes the collection.

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Tough Chronograph Stainless Steel and Titanium Watch CA0720-54H - From Citizen's School of Hard Knocks, A Review (plus Video)

I starting to focus more on Citizen designed watches in the last year or so. My previous biasness against non-mechanical timepieces shielded me from exploring this branch of the horological tree. After braking through the 'quartz' barrier I realised that there are a lot of incredible technologies and applications that can be found in this realm. My paranoia of serviceability as well as the possible deterioration of unique components appear unfounded as a number of quartz timepiece since the early era of the quartz timeline remain in operation without a care in the world.

Earlier this year I purchase the Citizen BN0211-50E Promaster Tough. I was very impressed with the build quality and its capabilities. When I noted that Citizen also came up with a chronograph model under the Tough series, I decided to get one.

There are two models under this sub-group. A bracelet version and a strap version. I decided on the bracelet version with reference CA0720-54H as I am intrigue with the bracelet design.For more information about the series and history, please refer to the special section at the end of this review.

Orient Automatic King Master Reissue WV0021AA JDM (similar to WV0011AA and WV0031AA) - JDM Classic, A Review (plus Video)

In 2015 Orient created a re-issue of its iconic Three Star King Master watch of the 1960s. There were three models in the series but all have been classified as JDMs. As such, you are only able to source it from Japan. Official information on the series is only via Orient's Japanese website.

I have been eyeing the watch for a number of years now. I happen to find one listed on Amazon via one of its affiliate merchant for a reasonable price. Given the choice, I would have picked the blue dial version but the black with gold trimming does hold its own appeal. After a few key strokes, the WV00021AA was on its way from Japan to Malaysia.

Since it was first launched until the date of this review, there was not much written about this series. The lack of access was one of the contributing factor to the minimum coverage. I do believe reviews have been written in Japanese but since I and a lot of other people don't read the language, information remains sparse.

Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster LOWERCASE Special Edition Reference SBDJ029 (similar to SBDJ027 & SBDJ028) - The Perfect Tuna for the Masses, A Review (plus Video)

Seiko’s Prospex watches is subdivided into Sea, Land, Sky and Run. Although most would be familiar with the dive watches from the Sea collection, the Land collection is also interesting. In my collection is the Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster SBDC011 (click here for more). It has been given the nickname "Field Tuna" by Seiko fans. It is an automatic watch that features a compass bezel and a shroud similar to that on Seiko's Tuna divers.

Since the introduction of the SBDC011 under the Fieldmaster sub-line in 2010, nothing else of substance was launched by Seiko to carry on the namesake. In 2017, Seiko surprised us with new Prospex Fieldmaster LOWERCASE watches which is similar to past models yet different at the same time.

Made in collaboration with the Japanese design consultants LOWERCASE, Seiko is able to bring something fresh and exciting to its design styling. Lead by Mr. Yuki Kajiwara, creative director of LOWERCASE, the Fieldmaster has been given a radical change in the design department.

Seiko Prospex Automatic Field Watch Green SRPD33K1 (similar to SRPD31K1 & SRPD35K1) - A Refreshing Adventure Watch, A Review (plus Video)

The first time I visited Tokyo years ago, I bought myself the Seiko SARB017 Alpinist, a very refined gentleman’s classic sports watch. Over the years, Seiko has come out with modern interpretations of the Alpinist with contemporary hands and markers. Everything else, such as the location of the crowns (the primary time adjustment and winding crown and the internal bezel controller crown) remains the same at 3 o'clock and 4 o'clock, respectively. Last year, Seiko stopped the production of the SARB017 Alpinist.

I also got in the collection the Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster SBDC011, another sports watch with a Tuna casing and compass complication. For this model, the bezel is external but it has some interesting graphics on its case-back. This has some bearing to the watch I will be reviewing in this posting.

For Baselworld 2019, Seiko launched a new series of land-base sports watches under the Prospex line. The SRPD31K1, SRPD33K1 and SRPD35K1 series is a refreshed evolution of the Alpinist. Although Seiko does not accord the Alpinist nickname to this new series, the resemblance is obvious. Moreover, there are some elements of the Fieldmaster incorporated as well. Out of the three models, I chose the SRPD33K1for the collection. More about the rest of the models at the end of the review.

The series is definitely targeted to the global mass market. It does not have a "J" suffix which would indicate the manufacturing was done in Japan. Instead, this series is manufactured in the many Seiko manufacturing facilities all over the world, apart from Japan. Hence the suffix "K".

Seiko Gundam 40th Anniversary Limited Editions Prospex 1000m Marinemaster Professional Zaku II SLA029J1/SBDX027 (similar to SLA031J1/SBDX029) - Gundam Tuna, A Review (plus Video)

I have to be honest, I am not an anime fan. Although The Mobile Suit Gundam television series was launched when I was a kid (I was a nine year old then), it wasn't a series that local television companies in Malaysia (RTM and TV3) broadcast. As such, it was more than a decade later that the series was broadcasted in Malaysia hence the fan base is more junior in age compared to me. When it was announced that Seiko will be doing a collaboration with Gundam for its 40th Anniversary celebration, I wasn't that impressed.

As you know, I do have the SBDX011. When I compared the original Emperor Tuna against the collaborative Gundam Tuna, I started to get interested. There are a number of tweaks in the new Gundam Tuna that I recommended Seiko to consider changing when I first reviewed the SBDX011 years ago. Anyway, I am a sucker for unique stuff from Seiko and after considering the merit of getting it for the collection, I pulled the trigger.

CITIZEN Promaster TSUNO Chronograph Racer Eco-Drive Limited Edition 100th Anniversary Model AV0077-82E - Bullhead Fame, A Review (plus Video)

The year 2018 marks Citizen Watch Company's 100th year of operation. To commemorate this key milestone, the Company released a series of unique, vintage-inspired bullhead chronograph called the Tsuno Chronograph Racer, at Baselworld 2018 watch fair. The inspiration behind the series was the 1973 Challenge Timer Tsuno Chrono (or “horned chronograph” in Japanese). For more about the series, please refer to a special dedicated section at the end of this review.

What caught my attention was a special 100th Anniversary Model, the AV0077-82E which was not part of the original quartet launched during Baselworld 2018 back in March 2018. This special limited edition is an all black PVD version with matching bracelet. To be honest, I would have gone for the blue dial version but considering the significance of the milestone it honours, I decided on the AV0077-82E.

I found one on SeiyaJapan for USD748.00 or RM3,216.24 (at the time of purchase). Unfortunately, the package was subjected to local taxes which added another RM175.45 (inclusive of RM19.10 administrative fees) to the total.

SEIKO Automatic Presage SARY055 (JDM reference)/SRP527 (International reference) - Value For Money Dress Watch, A Review (plus Video)

In the last few watch acquisitions, I was focused on getting the various standards of "Snowflakes" available within the broad repertoire of Seiko's timepieces. Through the various series and sub-lines, Seiko was able to provide designs of similar concept at different price ranges so as to fit  customers' affordability. While researching for the information on my "Snowflakes" project, I happened to notice watches that can be classified as "Baby GS". Instead of being too specific, I am more keen to focus of "white dial bracelet watches" as a collection criteria.

After going through my collection I realised that I have 9 of Seiko timepieces with such criteria. Today I added another into the pile; the Presage SARY055.

The Merchant

I sourced this example from SeiyaJapan. The MSRP is YEN41,040 (including taxes) but SeiyaJapan priced at USD294.00 which is equivalent to RM1,261.64 at the point of purchase. Unfortunately, Malaysian Customs will add another 5% plus some administrative fee for watch imports which in this case amounted to RM80.15 (of which RM19.10 was for the paperwork).

Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition International Ref. SJE073 or JDM Ref. SARA015, The Best Reinterpretation of an Icon - A Review (plus Video)

When the Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition Ref. SJE073 (International reference)/SARA015 (JDM reference) was showcased at Baselworld 2018, I was hooked. It immediately became another 'grail' watch for me. Why a 'grail' watch you might ask? The likelihood of me snaring one of the only 1,881 examples made is slim considering how beautiful it is.

In many reviews, the SJE073/SARA015 has been given the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake". This nickname was already given to the SARX055 last year. It is not fair to strip it from the incumbent just because this looks closer to the GS Snowflake. I prefer to give the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake 2" to the SJE073/SARA015. I will provide a justification on this later.

This new Presage introduced an all new Seiko caliber, the 6L35. The new caliber is thinner and more accurate compared to the commonly used base caliber for Presage, the 6R15. The dimensions of the watch also took advantage of the thinner movement to make for a much thinner watch casing.

The photos of the watch taken at Baselworld 2018 and via the press kit provided by Seiko wetted my appetite even more. When Gnomon Watches sent me a product update newsletter with the SJE073/SARA015 available at the store, I jumped at the opportunity to get one.

The MSRP in Japan is listed at YEN240,000 (before taxes). Gnomon Watches listed it at USD2,100 which is equivalent to RM8,994.75 at the point of purchase. The purchasing experience is smooth as silk and the watch was on my desk in 48 hours.

Seiko Prospex SLA025J1 (or SBEX007) Hi-Beat 300 Meter Limited Edition Dive Watch - A new love affair, A Review (plus Video)

In 2017, Seiko re-issued its iconic dive watch, the 62MAS in the form of the SLA017 (or SBDX019). This year the brand celebrates the 50th anniversary of another icon, the first hi-beat dive watch, the Seiko 1968 Reference 6159-7001. This original watch was very significant in many ways. In that year, Seiko released a diver that had doubled its dive rating, drastically increased legibility and timing precision, added an automatic movement, and offered an innovative and unique design. It wasn’t the first Seiko diver, but it was definitely the most consequential, and helped lay the groundwork for many future iconic models from the brand.

When it was presented at Baselworld 2018, I was very excited and it immediately joined my 'must have' list. I started to put my name down on a number of waiting lists managed by friendly Seiko authorised dealers. Since this is a limited edition model with only 1,500 units, demand is expected to be fierce and to hedge my bets, I got on a few waiting lists. The first that calls me will get my business.

Seiko Prospex JDM Baby Marinemaster 200 Meter Diver SBDC061 (similar to SBDC063 or SPB077/SPB079) - Similar to a Seiko Sumo, A Review (plus Video)

My trip to Japan in June 2018 has been very memorable. I visited for the first time, Fukuoka, capital of Fukuoka Prefecture that sits on the northern shore of Japan’s Kyushu Island. To commemorate the occasion, I decided to get myself a Japanese watch. Inside the Yodobashi Camera superstore in Hakata, Fukuoka City, I found a Seiko that was launched in Baselworld 2018.

The watch is the Seiko Prospex JDM Diver SBDC061. This watch has the International reference SPB077 when sold outside Japan. Similar to SBDC063 (or SPB079), the watch has been dubbed 'Baby Marinemaster' by Seikonistas. I got the watch on 19 June 2018 for just YEN82,633 after taking into consideration store discounts.

The SBDC061 is the more affordable modern reinterpretation of the famous Seiko 6159-7001 diver. The reference 6159-7001  diver was the first Seiko Professional diver (where the PROSPEX line was born) first released 50 years ago in 1968. The 6159-7001 was the first Seiko diver to bear the marking “Professional” on the dial. Seiko did also issue a much closer reinterpretation of the Seiko 6159-7001, the SBEX007 (internationally known as the SLA025) but that particular model is a limited edition and the specifications (as well as the price!) is very high-end.

Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ025J1 (similar to SARK011) - It has that formal ambiance and sophistication that not many watches have in its price range, A Review (plus Video)

I finally snared a 8R48 powered Presage!

There are 7 Presage watches in my collection currently. All automatic with either the 4R series or 6R series automatic movements. The SRQ025J1 will be the first chronograph Presage in the collection. Not easy getting this as the local distributor in Malaysia, Thong Sia, tend to not bring watches deemed 'too expensive' for local consumers. Even if they do bring such watches, the numbers imported are usually not more than a handful.

The chronograph Presage came to prominence back in 2016 when Seiko launched the limited edition SRQ019 and SRQ021 in honour of the 60th anniversary of Seiko’s first automatic mechanical watch in 1956. The SRQ019 has a white a grand feu enamel dial while the SRQ021 has a black Urushi lacquer dial. By virtue of their special dials and limited edition run, these watches were priced at a premium which was too rich for my taste. Luckily, a year later, Seiko decided to produce a standard production run of chronograph Presage in the form of the SRQ025J1.