Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ029J1 (or SBEC005 in Japan) - A New Panda is Born, A Review (plus Video)

I was able to acquire another heritage timepiece from Seiko. This time it is the Seiko Prospex Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRQ029J1 (or SBEC005 if you are in Japan). This watch was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Caliber 6139. When launched in 1969, it was the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. Today, the principle design of the 6139 is used in most high-end chronograph movements.

When the watch was announced by Seiko back in early October 2019, a number of famous watch reviewers mentioned about the 50-year confusion regarding the SRQ029J1. They concluded that Seiko have taken a 1970 design as a basis for this re-craft which definitely makes the 50-year claim somewhat overstated.

However, I disagree with this conclusion as the title for this watch relates to the movement and not to a particular historical wrsitwatch, unlike the SLA017J1, SLA025J1 and the SLA033J1. Since the 8R48 movement used in the SRQ029J1 is a direct descendant of the 6139 movement, what Seiko did was not wrong.

The SRQ029J1 is based on a design from the 1970 that became known as the ‘Panda’ by seikonistas (fans of Seiko). I was rather happy to learn about this fact as it was the year of my birth.

The original “Panda” chronograh from 1970 (photo from https://www.seikowatches.com/)

Nevertheless, it is important to note that Seiko is honouring the movement and not the watch per se. As such, a short history lesson on why the automatic chronograph movement was the talk of the town back then in 1969 is in order. Only when we understand the historical perspective will we be able to appreciate the significant of that momentous event.


The Birth of the Automatic Chronograph

In the late 1960s, two standalone brands and a consortium of manufacturers were experimenting on three fundamentally different design philosophy for an automatic chronograph.

The first was Zenith Watch Company which created the El Primero, a high-frequency but traditional horizontal clutch and integrated movement with a central rotor. The second was the consortium comprised of Heuer, Hamilton and Breitling in association with Buren for the base movement and Dubois-Depraz for the chronograph module. The output of the consortium was the Calibre 11 or Chronomatic, with micro-rotor automatic base and chronograph plate on the backside. The third was Seiko which designed a chronograph with an integrated architecture, where the chronograph parts are not added to an existing movement but integrated into a single design. The 6139, which has the combination of a column wheel and a vertical clutch would later become the genesis for high-end chronograph movements. 

El Primero 1969

Caliber 11 or Chronomatic

Caliber 6139

The photos above was taken from the internet.

Interestingly, all three designs were launched about the same time which created a lot of buzz in the horology community back then. Eventually, the design philosophy of the 6139 was widely adopted due to its simplicity of manufacturing and its robustness. 


The Watch

The new SRQ029J1 is made of stainless steel with super-hard Diashield coating. The surfaces on the watch have alternating brushed areas and bright mirror-like polished sections using the famous Zaratsu polishing technique.

The case has a diameter of 41 mm with a lug-to-lug length of 47 mm. As the watch incorporates a box sapphire crystal over the dial, the overall height of the watch is tall at 16 mm. This has the effect of making the watch rather bulky. Nevertheless, it does sit nicely over my 6.75 inch wrist. Moreover, the substantive height is not too apparent since a good proportion of it was taken up by the box sapphire crystal. I love box crystal as it enhances character to a watch.

The watch casing is paired with a bracelet that could fit into the 20 mm lugs. The total package is water-resistant to 100 meters.

For those of you that have not followed the Seiko development tree over the last decade, there are two watches with "Chronograph 50th Anniversary" as part of their title. The latest, the SRQ029J1 is titled the "Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary". Back in 2014, this time under the Brightz line, Seiko launched the SDGZ013 using the handle "Chronograph 50th Anniversary". Then, it was to commemorate Japan's and Seiko's first mechanical chronograph movement, the 5719 which came out in 1964.

SDGZ013 - Issue date 2014 - Titanium casing & bracelet - (L) 48.9 mm (W) 41.9 mm (H) 14.7 mm- Limited edition of 500 units

SRQ029J1 - Issue date 2019 - Stainless steel casing & bracelet - (L) 47.0 mm (W) 41.0 mm (H) 16.0 mm - Limited edition of 1,000 units

Both watches are generally similar in design apart from some slight differences. Some may argue that Seiko should not have revisited the same design for this year's commemoration but I have mixed feelings about this. When the 2014 'Panda' came out, the demand was overwhelming and the 500 units were quickly picked up. I too was in the market but I could not get one. I am glad that Seiko decided to revisit the Panda as it gave me another shot of getting one. However, from a collector's point-of-view, it erodes the exclusivity of the 'Panda' family.

The change from the Brightz line to the Prospex line is part of Seiko realignment exercise. In either case, it does not matter to me as the price point of this watch is well over the typical professional tool watches under the Prospex line. Honestly, I would treat this watch with the tender loving care like one would do to a dress watch under the Grand Seiko line.


The Dial

The dial clearly copies the 2014 SDGZ013 styling with a three sub-dial layout instead of the two vertically aligned sub-counters of the original 1969 'Panda'. The dial has three major and one minor apertures punched through where the sub-dials and the date window are placed. 

The SRQ029 has a silver-panda dial, with a silvery-white hairline finish while the two chronograph sub-counters are in black. Both chronograph sub-counters have sloping chapter rings where major and minor line markers are painted in white. The hands on these sub-counters are painted white. The sub-counter at 9 o'clock is the 30-minute counter with Arabic numerals "30/60", "10/40" and "20/50" painted in white on the counter surface. The sub-counter at 6 o'clock is the 12-hour counter with Arabic numerals "12", "3", "6" and "9" painted in white on the counter surface.

The small sub-seconds counter at 3 o’clock is slightly different as it does not have a chapter ring. The hand on this sub-dial is painted black. Line markers for every 5-minute is also in black and painted directly on the surface. The sub-dial surface has the same colour as the rest of the dial but due to its circular finishing, creates a nice contrast.



The minor aperture on the dial, located between 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock is for the date complication. The aperture is also circular where you can see part of the date wheel. To ensure balance, the date wheel has a white background with black numbers.

Applied rectangular polished metal hour markers are put on the dial except for the 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. A shorter marker is put for the 3 o'clock position while the 12 o'clock position has two of the regular markers side-by-side. The top of the markers are painted black while a small section closer to the edge of the dial has a dab of Lumibrite paint.

There are four lines of texts on the dial. The first three are located at the upper quadrant which consist of an applied 'SEIKO' brandname, a Prospex logo and the word 'AUTOMATIC'. The last two items are printed in black on the dial itself. At the bottom of the dial, in very small font size is the words 'JAPAN' and some manufacturing codes.

On the edge of the dial surface are minutes and sub-minutes line markers in black. Meanwhile, on the sloping chapter ring is the tachymeter scale, also painted in black.

The primary minutes and hours hands are syringe-like in design. Painted black, only the middle section is painted with Lumibrite paint. The main chronograph hand is thin and painted black with an orange tip similar to the original 1969 model.

The dial is protected by a box sapphire crystal which adds a couple of millimetres to the height of the watch. For me, this is the most visceral part of the watch. This design factor was not included in the 2014 SDGZ013 where a flat sapphire crystal was used instead. Just looking at it gives you the nostalgia of something vintage.



Like most typical chronograph, the crown and the pushers are located on the East side of the casing. The crown and pushers are sterile. The crown uses a push-in & pull-out system. Compared to the SDGZ013, there are a few differences. The first is the plunger-type pushers on the SDGZ013 compared to the the cylinder-like pushers on the SRQ029J1. The pushers on the newer model appear more robust and ties in with the professional nature of the Prospex line. The second is the stone capped crown on the SDGZ013 compared to the sterile crown on the SRQ029J1. Keeping it raw and basic is the spirit of the Prospex line.



The screw-down case-back has a display window made out of a flat sapphire crystal. Apart from the typical notations expected on case-backs, the SRQ029J1 also has the "Limited Edition 0766/1000" printed.


The 8R48 Movement

Underneath the display window is the 34-jewel 8R48 automatic chronograph movement from Seiko. Operating at 4 Hertz or 28,800 BPH, the movement has about 45 hours of power reserve and has an accuracy rate of +25 to -15 seconds per day.

Caliber 8R48 (photo from the internet)

The 8R series of movement has generally been reserved for the Grand Seiko but once in a while, Seiko include this movement in other series as well. Made out of 311 parts, it includes some of Seiko's famous inventions such as: ‘Diashock’ - a shock resistance system where in the event of a sudden impact, it protects the balance wheel. The jewel which anchors the balance staff is held by a spring, the elasticity of which ensures absorption of the shock impact; 'Magic Lever’ - a simple mechanism that improved the efficiency and durability of automatic movements by enabling the mainspring to be wound, irrespective of the oscillating weight’s direction of travel; and ‘Spron’- Seiko’s proprietary alloy which is highly heat resistant, anti-corrosive, antimagnetic and has a particularly high elasticity. The balance spring and mainspring is made out of this material.

These three innovations are generally called Seiko's ‘Trimatic’ inventions.

As highlighted earlier, the 8R48 utilises the vertical clutch and column wheel system with three clutches. Similarly designed watches made by the Swiss goes for a much higher price.

I was able to gauge the accuracy of my example with a simple test using the Toolwatch app. It recorded an accuracy of -3.3 seconds per day on the first try, well within the factory stated range.


The Bracelet

The lugs are relatively short and curved inwards for a good grip on the wrist. There are no drill-through lug holes to make it easier for strap replacement unlike the SDGZ013.



The SRQ029J1 is paired with a very nice stainless steel bracelet. The metal surface has been treated with Diashield and has gone through the Zaratsu polishing process. Each link consists of five parts that has a mixture of polish and brush surfaces. The bridge is machined and it locks in place by a three-fold signed clasp with push button release. As the clasp does not provide any micro-adjustment points, the bracelet has a few half-links to help in resizing.

The links are connected together via friction pins.



Although the watch has Lumibrite paint on parts of the dial, the amount of paint used is rather minuscule. Illumination in the dark is rather pathetic and unlike what you would expect from a Seiko. It is so bad that I could not take a decent night shot using my camera.


Comparison Between the SRQ029J1 and SDGZ013

At first glance, you should not be blamed if you made an initial assumption that both watches are the same. Both are unofficially designated as 'Panda' with the same overall arrangement on the dial. However, subtle differences are many and I will try to highlight them to you (Note: the mosaic of photos on the right is that of the SDGZ013).

1. The SDGZ013 came with a spare leather strap. None was given to the SRQ029J1;
2. The SDGZ013 is part of the Brightz line while the SRQ029J1 is part of the Prospex line;
3. Different style pushers and crown (highlighted earlier);
4. The SDGZ013 has a square date aperture, the SRQ029J1 has a round date aperture;
5. The SDGZ013 has a flat sapphire crystal, the SRQ029J1 has a box sapphire crystal;
6. The SDGZ013 has a drill-through lugs, the SRQ029J1 has solid lugs;
7. The main hands on the SDGZ013 is different compared to the main hands on the SRQ029J1;
8. The SDGZ013 has a red crystal coin medallion to commemorate the anniversary, whereas the SRQ029J1 only has notations about the anniversary printed around the case-back.

The Wearing Experience

The width of the watch is well suited for my 6.75 inch wrist. Despite its height, it wears well and its 190 gm weight (I suppose the weight on my example is slightly less since I took off three links to size  it to my wrist) is obvious but not excessive.



As a tool watch under the Prospex line, I expected its illumination capability to be on par with other models of the line. Unfortunately, I was disappointed to find the poor level of illumination on the dial. Despite stating that Lumibrite was used, Seiko has used it rather sparingly. Honestly, the illumination was so bad that I could not even capture it with my camera. Visually, you can just about see it.



Apart from the illumination issue, I am quite satisfied with this watch. The fact that mechanical 'Pandas' are very rare makes it a worthwhile addition to the collection. I have no doubt that this model will be sold out very quickly.



The Purchasing Experience

I was made to understand from my AD that Seiko has allocated only one piece to key ADs in Malaysia. The shop that I got this piece was only given one unit. I suspect only a handful was allocated to Malaysia.



The packaging came in primary watch box inside a white shiny cardboard box with the name printed in silver. The primary watch box is black with the brand printed in silver and has a soft smooth padding to its surface. Flipping it open reveals a small pit where the watch on its pillow sits. Also note that the Prospex sub-line, logo as well as the words "LIMITED EDITION" are printed on the top inner surface of the watch box. There is no place for documents. All the necessary documents are place inside the white cardboard box.



The tags provided are rather basic. I would expect a nice plastic dog-tag style similar to what you get with a Rolex considering the price point of the watch.




Specifications

Series: Prospex
Reference: Worldwide SRQ029J1; Japan SBEC005
Caliber Number: 8R48
Jewels: 34
Movement Type: Automatic with manual winding capacity
Frequency: 4 Hertz or 28,800 BPH
Accuracy: +25 to -15 seconds per day
Duration: Approximately 45 hours
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Coating: Diashield (super hard coating)
Case Polishing: Zaratsu method
Crystal: Box shaped sapphire
Crystal Coating: Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
LumiBrite: Lumibrite on hands and indexs
Clasp: Three-fold clasp with push button release
Water Resistance: 10 bar
Case Size: Height 16 mm; Width 41 mm; Length 47 mm; Lugs 20 mm
Weight: 190 gm
Bracelet Length: 197 mm
Bracelet Links: Full & half-links
Case-Back: Screw-down display case-back
Functions: Chronograph; date window; stop second hand function
Limited Edition: #766 out of 1,000
Release Date: October 2019
MSRP: RM14,800; YEN380,000
Purchase Date: 29 November 2019
Price: RM12,600
Store: Seiko Boutique, Mid Valley Megamall


Photo Gallery