Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver SLGB023 (similar to SLGB025) - Precision Meets the Depths, A Review (plus Video)

I was given the opportunity to travel to Sapporo Japan in July 2026 to attend a conference. I took the opportunity to arrive four days earlier to experience Sapporo and I brought my family with me.

It was a schedule packed, my wife planned it as such that I got immersed with the island going up mountains and visiting farmlands. What she forgot to incorporate into the schedule is shopping time. I would liked to visit ADs of Japanese brands while I am in Japan. At that point of time I was resigned to the fact, that I may not be able to see any of the fine watches Japan has to offer.

With the conference running full steam, The days were full of presentations and bilateral meetings at the end of each day. Most of the ADs in Sapporo closes either at 5:00 pm or 8:00 pm (the latest) which does not leave me ample time to go shopping. 

Luckily, on the second day, no meetings were scheduled after the forum and I was able to start my hunt. The first stop is the Daimaru Sapporo Department Store which happens to be the AD for Credor, Grand Seiko, Citizen's Campanola and other brands as well. 

The first thing I noticed about the AD was the availability of some of the last models. Without needing to ask the sales person, I saw the Ushio 300 on display. Only the blue was available as the green version was sold earlier. After just holding on to the watch for a few seconds, I decided to get it. This watch was only made available since June 2026. What a find. Even then, I am almost certain an example will only be available to Malaysia in a few months time.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Mechanical Hi-Beat Diver Watch SBGH289 - A Statement Piece that Balances Toughness with Elegance, A Review (plus Video)

The Grand Seiko dealership in Mid Valley Megamall is having a clearance sale. Many GS watches are available with deep discounts from MSRP. I went to visit to peruse what's available and see if I could find a bargain.

 

To be honest, I do not have a burning desire to get one. Nonetheless, the choices available is still rather extensive. After going through the examples available, my eyes started to drift towards a genre that was my first love when I started my watch collection journey - the dive watch. What is available in the offerings is the SBGH289, with a hi-beat automatic movement.

 

I do have something similar in the form of the SBGA229, powered by a Spring Drive movement. One would immediately assumed the the SBGH289 (launched in 2021) is the same as the SBGA229 (launched in 2017) except for the different caliber movements used. However, there are more subtle changes that can only be noticed on closer scrutiny. 

 

The special price quoted for the SBGH289 is really good and difficult to get anywhere else. After weighing in the options, I proceeded with the purchase of the SBGH289.

Longines HydroConquest Chronograph Automatic Blue Dial Reference L3.883.4.96.6 - Sporty Diver, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got a Longines watch for my collection.

I was on a trip to the UK to attend my daughter's graduation ceremony. It has been my tradition to buy myself a watch to commemorate such events. A few days before the ceremony, I visited the Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet to see what watch shops were there and what brands and models they carried.

The only interesting shop I found was Hour Passion, which carries a number of Swiss brands. The Longines section was prominent, but it did not carry the most recent models. I later found out that by accepting this limitation, the shop is free to offer deep discounts that other Authorized Dealers (ADs) may not be allowed to give. For this shop, the standard discount is 30% off the MSRP.

My eyes fell on the blue HydroConquest Chronograph on a bracelet. I knew this model had been phased out in 2023. After further negotiation with the dealer, I received an additional 10% off the already discounted price.

Before making the purchase, I contacted a dealer friend in Malaysia to find out if it was a good deal. While the MSRP would be cheaper in Malaysia due to different tax structures, the discounts offered in the UK were so deep that the deal was very palatable. Sweet!

Citizen Series 8 890 Mechanical NB6060-58L (similar to NB6069-53H and NB6066-51W) - It is Reliable as it is Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)

Citizen is ramping up their mechanical watch game. A new sub-series under the brand Series 8 line was launched in March 2024. The 890 is the fifth sub-series to be launch (the other sub-series are the 830, 831, 870 and the 880). I am fortunate to have in the collection the formal 831 NB6010-81E and the adventure GMT 880 NB6031-53E. 

For the last decade I seldom took the time to explore Citizen’s offerings. Then, Citizen was more incline to promote their Eco-Drive technology. With the success of Seiko and other brands that focused on mechanical movements in terms of sales and brand awareness, Citizen has started to explore this market space. As a fully integrated manufacturer, this should not be a problem for them. The renewed focus on mechanical watches has produced a number of interesting timepieces. The Series 8 is one such line dedicated solely to mechanical movement.

The 890 is the first dive watch range under the Series 8 line. It is interesting to note that Citizen’s designers chose an internal bezel design to kickstart their dive series. I suppose they wanted something different from the more recent 880 design which has a typical external bezel.

 

Seiko Prospex LANDMASTER 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071J1 - A Disappointment, A Review (plus Video)

Seiko has loads of series. One of the series that I follow closely is the Landmaster series, a range of watches that caters for adventurers. First introduced in 1993, the series has evolved in interesting ways (to be explained later). I was given the chance to have an exposure to the series when I got the SBDB005 back in 2013 and five years later, the SBEJ003 in 2018. Another 5 years rolled by before the SLA071 was introduced in 2023 which I quickly snapped up.

I must say that the SLA071 is not something that I expected after owning the previous two offerings under the Landmaster series. I sense that the designers in Seiko had a free rein in the design process which may or may not sit well with a number of enthusiasts. 

Personally, I am conflicted somewhat on how I truly feel about this watch. Although it has all the best offerings from Seiko, the combination is something that only a few people can appreciate. More about this later.

Revelot R12 Hexmariner 39 Radium Storm Steel - Looks Great and Affordable, A Review (plus Video)

I recently bought the R11 Hemariner 42 Artic White Steel. I was made to understand from the dealer that the R12 was about to be launched which is smaller at 39.0 mm wide. I was intrigued and a few months later I visited the same shop (Timekeeper, NU Sentral) where the R12 was available. Although there are a number of models under the R12 series, there were only a few models available at the store (Revelot encourages internet purchases from their website).

 

After reviewing the models available, I set my sight on the Radium Storm Steel model. This model has a nice dark blue colour on the bezel and dial. From the photo, the watch looks more black than blue. However, in person, the dark blue really pops out.

This watch is great homage to the Rolex Submariner. The quality and materials used belies the price point that Revelot sells the watch at. For this watch, I only need to pay RM1,299. This factor alone makes it a very compelling watch to get. 

Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic SUPER TITANIUM NB6021-68L 'Fujitsubo' (similar to NB6021-17E) - A very Usable Watch, A Review (plus Video)

In August of 2022, Citizen launched the NB6021 series of dive watches under the Promaster line. This series is a revival of a 4 decade old mechanical dive watch design by the brand. The Citizen 62-6198 Challenge Diver series which was made from the late 1960s up until the early 1980s was the inspiration. Although there were many sub-variants, the vast majority of the models look perilously similar. It was ruggedly built with typical concepts and lines of contemporary dive watches of that period. What makes it noteworthy was a discovery of one of the watches that washed up on Long Reef Beach in Australia in 1983 coated with barnacles. Despite being lost at sea for a long time (that particular example was made in 1977), it was still working diligently when found. This fact sealed the legendary reliability of the design.

In the middle of 2021, Citizen launched a more basic revival of the Citizen 62-6198 Challenge Diver in the form of the NY0125 series. With stainless steel and mineral glass as core materials for the series, it was powered by the basic Miyota 8204 movement. I was immediately intrigued by this model. What caught my interest was the completeness of the design - a dive watch that is not as large as contemporary models found in the market right now.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK Sports Style Blue Dial SSK003K1 (similar to SSK001K1 and SSK005K1) - Not a Progeny of the SKX, A Review (plus Video)

When news came out a few months ago about the possibility of Seiko introducing a new movement with a GMT complication for its entry level Seiko 5 Sports line, there was genuine excitement in the air. The concept of a GMT is not unique in the watch world but to have a new automatic GMT movement designed specifically for an affordable range series is unprecedented. Current GMT movements are in a price range generally higher than a typical Seiko 5 Sports. Ability to introduce a GMT complication in a cheaper movement opens a whole lot of possibilities.

Moreover, to make the deal even sweeter, Seiko decided to incorporate its famous SKX diver series (c. 1996 - 2019) design philosophy in the new SSK series. Due to Seiko's new product classification guide, the new SSK does not have some of the key specifications loved by SKX's legion of fans. This break away from the iconic SKX could influence your views regarding the SSK.

Of course I will have to acquire one for the collection. Of the three available, I decided to choose the blue dial version, the SSK003K1. I made my order through my trusted dealer and he delivered.

Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Blue Dial Reference T137.427.11.041.00 (similar to White Dial T137.427.11.011.00) - Pressed All The Right Buttons, A Review (plus Video)

When Tissot announced the launch of the Chronograph PRX in March 2022, I was elated. I already got the PRX automatic and it worth the investment. Adding a mechanical chronograph function in the PRX line is just icing to the cake. I really want to get one. After making a few inquiries in Kuala Lumpur, I was told that the model will be released to dealers in August at a MSRP of RM7,400.

As it happens, I was scheduled to go for a trip to UK in mid-June. Tissot announced that the model will be released in the UK around the same time. Although I wasn’t hoping to find one, luck was with me on this. I found one in a UK jewellery chain in Dundee (actually, it’s branch in Inverness got one so they had it shipped to the Dundee branch for me). After a few days I finally got my hands on one. 

Do note that the price I paid for this watch is higher than the list price in Kuala Lumpur after taking into consideration foreign exchange conversion from GBP to RM. Nevertheless, I am willing to pay the premium just to have the experience dealing with a Scottish jeweler for the very first time.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial Reference T1374071104100 (Similar to T1374071105100, T1374072103100 & T9314074129100) - Value for Money Classic Design, A Review (plus Video)

For 2021, Tissot released two types of PRX, a quartz version first and a later, an automatic version. There are a number of examples in each of the two categories. I personally had my eyes on the automatic version but it took me a long time before I got my hands on one. Even when I did get one, there wasn't any discount given from the MSRP price.

There are four models to choose from. What I got was the blue dial version.

The retro styling of the watch and the integrated bracelet design caught my interest. The PRX is a watch inspired by the original model first launched in 1978. It features a tonneau-shaped case with an integrated bracelet that was the rage back then. It has a circular bezel mirror-polish to contrast against the brush finishing on the case itself. To me, visually, the PRX is a really interesting piece.

I am not the only one that thinks this watch is a keeper. For the Malaysian market, it was a sellout and I had to put in an order for the next batch earmarked for this region.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPG29K1 Military / Trench Watch (similar to SRPG27K1, SRPG31K1, SRPG33K1, SRPG35K1, SRPG37K1, SRPG39K1, SRPG41K1 & SRPG42K1) - Another Winner From Seiko, A Review (plus Video)

I have been collecting Seiko 5 series of military inspired watches for many years. These watches are basic, robust and practical. In fact, I would recommend these watches as a good starter watch for someone interested in the world of horology.

The genesis of the Seiko 5 military inspired watches is the iconic SNK805K2 (the link to the review is here). Nevertheless, the journey for me start with the next iteration of the genre, the SNZG09K1 which I reviewed in November 2013 (the link to the review is here). For me, that watch was a great value for money piece of machinery that can handle any situation. From then on, I start to collect the examples of the genre as new models were introduced.

Recently, the brand, under Seiko 5 Sports, launched the latest series of military style watches. There are a number of models to choose from. Although I would usually go for a green dial version, unfortunately, none came with a bracelet. Instead I chose a blue dial version, the SRPG29K1 to take home with me.

Seiko Prospex 4th Generation Monster SRPD25K1 (or SBDY033) Dive Watch (similar to SRPD27K1/SBDY035 and SRPE09K1/SBDY045) - The Quintessential Tool-Watch, Review (plus Video)

In 2019, Seiko released the fourth generation Monster dive watches. In the initial release, three models were launched, the blue dial with bracelet SRPD25K1, and the black dial with silicone strap SRPD27K1, and the wavy blue dial special edition with bracelet SRPE09K1 (In Japan, the references are SBDY033, SBDY035 and SBDY045, respectively).

In my collection, I already have a model under each of the earlier generation. Gen 1: SKX779K1 Black Monster; Gen 2: SRP311K1 Sunburst Black PVD Monster; and Gen 3: SZSC005 Jade Monster. Although I should have made a decision back in 2019 to get one, I had to re-prioritized my acquisition plans as a number of other timepieces took precedence.

During the current unpleasantness of the Covid-19 pandemic, I had the opportunity to re-look at my original plans and I decided to get the SRPD25K1 to complete the Monster family.

Orient Star Sports 200 meter Air Diver Blue Power Reserve Reference RK-AU0302L - Simplicity is Strength, A Review (plus Video)

When Orient announced in August 2019 the launch of their new Sports Collection under the Orient Star brand, I was intrigued. For the last few years, the corporate restructuring involving Orient and Epson has taken a toll on the company's ability to offer new models. Compared to the other two famous Japanese brands such as Seiko and Citizen, during that period, Orient's offering was rather pathetic. However, 2019 appears to be a change. A couple of interesting series have been launched which are very interesting. For this review, I will be looking at the Air Diver series.

At first glance, the Air Diver series which consist of five models appear rather basic. They look like many of the run-of-the-mill dive watches available in the market. However, on closer inspection, these watches have been designed to almost perfect dimensions, able to perform many other tasks beyond being just a dive watch. Of the five models, I chose the sunburst blue dial version with reference number RK-AU0302L.

Although the design is rather contemporary, for Orient, it is a departure from its traditional design philosophy when it comes to dive watches.

BALL Engineer II Skindiver Heritage Blue Limited Edition Reference DM3208B-P1-BE - A No-Nonsense Dive Watch, A Review (plus Video)

As a watch company, the BALL Watch Company has been making watches since 1891. Back then, it specialises in railroad timepieces. However, like many watch companies in the world, dive watches was an area that was worth looking into. The BALL Skindiver timepiece conceived in 1962 in response to the increasing popularity of underwater diving in the United States.

To commemorate that milestone in the company's history, BALL launched the Skindiver Heritage series in the form of three distinct groups that are differentiated by the movement used. The most affordable group features BALL's RR1102 automatic caliber with a day-date complication (built on an ETA 2836-2 base); the middle group uses the BALL's RR1102-C caliber with COSC-certification; and the most expensive group used the BALL in-house RRM7309-C movement with 80-hour power reserve and COSC-certification but drops the day for a date-only complication.

After looking at the three options, I ended up with the most affordable option available, the model featuring the base movement RR1102 without COSC certification and paired with a rubber strap. The DM3208B-P1-BE was the model I chose.

Orient Sports SK Legendary Diver Retro 70's Automatic RA-AA0B03L (similar to RA-AA0B01G and RA-AA0B02R) - Affordable Modern Vintage Inspired Wrist Candy, A Review (plus Video)

Nothing much was expected under the Orient brand for 2019. However, out of the blue, the brand presented a re-crafted model of their famous SK diver of 1970s. The SK design in question is the Super King series (a lot of people mistaken the SK to stand for Sea King). When I saw it, I was intrigue and I immediately got one for the collection. The one I chose was the dark navy blue version, the RA-AA0B03L.

I was made to understand that this will be a limited run series. Production started from June 2019 and is expected to end by March 2020.

It would appear that Orient is adopting Seiko's 're-craft' strategy. Identify older iconic design and re-issue them using the latest technology. This strategy is dicey and requires careful planning. Milking the historical interest of yesteryear's design can only go so far. You can already see the danger in this strategy the way Seiko has been treating its iconic 'turtle' and 'tuna' divers. They have totally flooded the market with numerous iterations and fans are getting uncomfortable with the current development. Orient should stick to the strategy adopted under Seiko's 'Recraft' series instead - short and sweet production run with limited iterations.

Seiko 5 Sports Automatic Blue Reference SRPB85K1 (similar to SRPB79K1, SRPB81K1, SRPB83K1) - A Great Starter Watch for a New Collector, A Review (plus Video)

The SRPB85K1 was launched in 2018 without much fanfare. Not surprising as Seiko tends to keep Seiko 5 product launches extremely low-key. Although there were a number of such releases last year, most were generally cosmetic changes to a basic design - last year, the bulk appears to be dive watch related.

One that caught my eye was the SRPB79 - 86 Series (please refer to a short introduction to the series as the end of the review), specifically the SRPB85K1.

The SRPB85K1 comes with a countdown timer. As the name suggest, the scale provided allows one to set a target time (within 60 minutes) and set the bezel so that when the minutes hand reaches "0", target time has been reached.

The countdown timer bezel is seldom seen on a Seiko sports watch. Most of the new Seiko 5 Sports launches throughout 2018 came with a movable bezel, either a dive timer bezel, a compass bezel or a 24-hour bezel.

Unfortunately, it is not as flexible as a dive timer. A dive timer can be used to track not only the amount of time spent doing something (like diving) but also be used to track a secondary timezone. It is because of this flexibility that watch makers tend to produce more dive timer equip watches.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT Reference AL-555LNS4H6 Sunset Blue - My Example has a Quality Issue, A Review (plus Video)

I saw Gnomon Watches of Singapore putting up for sale the Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT last month. I tried getting one but was unsuccessful. Recently, the merchant re-listed another one under the series, the reference AL-555LNS4H6 nicknamed Sunset Blue. I quickly made my order and within 24 hours it was on my desk.

On Gnomon Watches, the watch was listed at USD1,080.00. The MSRP is EUR1,295.00. I was able get it for RM4,674.11.

The watch is a tonneau shaped watch casing with hidden lugs, two crowns, boxed crystal, leather strap, three hands, GMT function and date wheel.

The watch has a vintage feel to it. For those of you that prefer the classic look, the Pilot Heritage GMT has all the trappings.

Alpina has a long history of watch making. It had its golden age and it also suffered under the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s and early 1980s. Close to collapsing, Alpina was able to weather the storm and today, the brand is revitalising its name with many interesting offerings. To read more about the brand, please refer to the book about Alpina at the end of this posting.

Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Mechanical Blue Bracelet Reference 241835 - A Capable Refined Timepiece with Limitations, A Review (plus Video)

As you know, I originally separated my watch collection into two blogs, one for watches made in the West while the other for watches made in the East. Due to the inconsistency and unbalance nature  of acquiring watches for the collection, it would appear my http://westernwatch.blogspot.com blog is not getting similar traction as this particular blog. As such, I have decided to consolidate all my reviews, whether it is Eastern or Western made watches, into this blog instead from this point onward. The existing reviews on http://westernwatch.blogspot.com will remain for reference.

When the first INOX (it is actually spelt as I.N.O.X. but for the purpose of this review I will write it down without the periods) was launched in 2014, I willed myself to wait for a mechanical version to appear. As the years progress, I actually lost hope that Victorinox will ever come out with an automatic caliber timepiece. Many reviewers have the assumption that such possibility is remote if Victorinox wants to maintain the 'indestructibility' quality of the INOX. No mechanical movement is deemed able to withstand the myriad of tests that an INOX is expected to endure. Before anyone accuses me of being a quartz-phobic, I am not. I do collect quart watches (see the list of quartz watches in the collection here). My preference is solar or kinetic powered timepieces because only these kind of quartz watches do not need periodic battery replacement. For me, an INOX would be better suited as a solar powered timepiece instead of battery powered. The though of always opening the case-back after every two-year cycle is too intrusive in my view. The integrity of the INOX can be put into question after every cycle. Do note that in the instruction manual for the quartz INOX, it is recommended that a maintenance service should also be done during a battery change.

Seiko Criteria Automatic SRPC73K1 "Submersible" (similar to SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC75K1 & SRPC77K1) - Stylish yet basic, A Review (with Videos)

The Seiko Criteria line has never caught my attention until now. The range has traditionally been viewed as having a flashy yet sporty styling. Powered by quartz technology (battery and solar), the line's most common complication is the chronograph function.

For 2018, Seiko decided to add a simpler design to Criteria's repertoire. Powered with a basic automatic movement, the three handed timepieces come only with day and date complications as well as a display case-back. Importantly, the glass is sapphire crystal for the extra touch of quality.

When I saw it for the first time, I did a quick search on the internet about this particular line but nothing came up. The only information I was able to get is the reference number of the 5 timepieces that makes up this particular series under the Criteria line. Out of the five, I find the SRPC73K1 to be the most catching of the lot and I immediately took possession of one.

Orient Triton RA-EL0002L Blue Diver – Good Size but Bracelet Sucks, A Review (plus Videos)

I was rather sad when news came out that Orient has decided to end its M-Force series. This series was Orient’s specialized heavy duty sport and diver watch line. The watches under this series are large and designed like bunkers. The bulky dimensions are necessary so as to be able to pack a lot of features in them. For a start, the M-Force series is one of the few series of watches in the world which are ISO-compliant in three standards: diving (ISO 6425), anti-magnetism (ISO 764) and shock-resistance (ISO 1413).

Unfortunately, the size is a factor that put a lot of people off from owning an M-Force. There appears to be a gradual shift in fashion where interest in 40++ mm diameter watches is waning. Due to practical reasons, people are starting to re-focus their sights on watches in the 40± mm size category. Orient has realized this shift and has taken steps to ensure they have the capacity to deliver what is demanded by the market.