Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB117J1 (similar to SPB119J1, SPB121J1 & SPB123J1) - An All-Rounder, A Review (plus Video)

The Seiko Alpinist is a living icon. It was a series of watches designed in 1959 for Japanese mountain climbers and it started with the Laurel Alpinist. Today, the most famous of all the Alpinist and a cult classic, the SARB017 is the face of the series. In early 2018, devastating news came out from Seiko when it announced the end of the production for the SARB017. The fans were disappointed to say the least and Seiko was inundated with countless request for a stay of 'execution'. This caused a spike in the price of SARB017 still available with dealers as well as prices in the second hand market.

In late 2019, Seiko announced a new set of Alpinist with upgraded specifications slated for worldwide delivery starting January 2020. The fans were elated as Seiko decided to offer four different models. Three areas of improvement over the predecessor are in the movement, the crystal and the case-back. More about these things later. It is also important to note that all the models are made in Japan.

I was presently surprised that Seiko Japan allocated a number of units from the initial batch to Malaysia. My AD called to asked whether I would like to have one and I quickly agree to get one. Since I already got the SARB017 (click here to go to that review) with the deep British racing green dial, I chose the black dial version with bracelet, the SPB117J1.


The Series

There are four members of the new 2020 Alpinist series. This would be the sixth (6th) series of a prolific range that span from 1959 to today. The international reference/Japanese reference are as follows: SPB117J1/SBDC087, SPB119J1/SBDC089, SPB121J1/SBDC091 and SPB123J1. Note that the last model is not listed on Seiko's Japanese website. I was made to understand that this model is a special model only be made available exclusively from specific websites. However, on Seiko's US website, the SPB123J1 is listed as part of the standard lineup.

SPB117J1 RM3,925/YEN77,000 USD750	SPB119J1 RM3,680/YEN75,000 USD725
SPB121J1 RM3,680/YEN75,000 USD725	SPB123J1 (website exclusive) To be determined USD725

The "J1" suffix indicate that the watches were made in Japan.

The Purchasing Experience

I ordered my watch from my favorite dealer, AWG of Mid Valley City Megamall. The watch was made available as advertised by Seiko's global website in Malaysian stores in January 2020. I was actually surprised as I though that Malaysia would not get any allocation from the first batch of production. Fortunately, Seiko did allocate a number to Malaysia from the first batch of production. Based on the serial number of my watch - 980228 - my particular example was made in August 2019 and is the 228th to be made. The rule is the first digit signifies the year of the production (unfortunately it does not tell you the decade), the second is the month and the final four is the production sequence.

The Watch

After looking at the options available, I decided to get a bracelet version. Unfortunately, the only watch with that specification is the SPB117J1 which comes with a black dial. If given a choice, I wish Seiko would also introduce a model with a blue dial. In 2019, to celebrate 60 years of the Alpinist, 1,959 examples of a new Alpinist model, the SPB089J1 was made. The watch was only available through The HODINKEE Shop and Seiko Boutiques. It was visually identical to the SARB017 except it had a blue dial and silver markers and hands.

I do find the Alpinist design works well with bright colour dials such as green and blue. I suspect, it would also look awesome with orange or blood red as well.

The reason I decided on a bracelet version is due to a couple of things. Firstly, a standard bracelet, if you need to get one after-market, will not be cheap. On the other hand, a typical strap, either leather or cloth is so much cheaper. As such, it would be better to get one with a bracelet and swap it out with something different if the need arises. Secondly, a bracelet Alpinist is a minority. Most Alpinist models come standard with straps. From a scarcity point of view, it is also good to go for something least demanded now. For example, in the fifth (5th) series of the Alpinist that was launched in 2006, everyone would recognise the legendary SARB017. However, its other two siblings, the SARB013 and SARB015 were seldom given the same limelight as the SARB017.

I bet, for some of you, after having seen the photos below, you suddenly got an itch to explore the siblings further right (be honest)?

SARB013

SARB015

The SPB117J1 is a stainless steel watch with matching bracelet. With polished and brushed surfaces, the watch measures 39.5 mm across the dial. Its lug-to-lug length is 46.4 mm and it has an overall thickness of 13.2 mm.

When compared to the its other siblings, the SPB117J1 dial is different in a number of areas. The colour is gloss instead of sunburst. The primary markers are also different. The addition of red coloured text is also unique (see the photos of the series that have been tabulated above).



The dial is jet black. The sloping chapter ring is the bi-directional internal compass bezel. The bearings are in Arabic numbers, line and triangle markers. North, East, South and West are represented with their initials within a triangle frame. All the triangle frames are in white except for North which is painted in a rust colour.

On the dial itself there are three sets of timing scales. At the edge of the dial is the second and sub-second scale in white lines. Every fifth second is a small dot marker painted in Lumibrite paint. Next is the minute markers in 5-minute increments represented by the number "05" to "55". No markings were provided for "00"/"60" as a special marker has been allocated for this location as well as "15" due to the presence of the date aperture. Finally, the hour markers in triangle. The triangles are applied polished metal pieces. For 12 o'clock, it is a double triangle while no hour marker was allocated for 3 o'clock due to the the presence of the date aperture. This is the only model out of the four that has consistent marker design instead of alternating marker design like the rest.

The applied logo is the only text located at the upper quadrant of the watch. On the bottom quadrant, three lines of text and logo can be found. The often despised Prospex logo and the word "Automatic" are painted in white while the words "20 BAR" are painted in red. This is the only model out of the four that has red coloured text.



The date aperture is located at 3 o'clock. There is no frame to the aperture. The date wheel has the typical black number over a white background format. I believe, Seiko should have gone with an opposite design i.e. white number over a black background as this would balance out the dial better. The addition of a magnifying eye over the date aperture further disrupt the visual flow of the dial. I am happy to note that Seiko did a great job aligning the magnifier properly over the date aperture on my example.

The cathedral hands are similar to the previous series. The metal parts of the hands are polished and Lumibrite paint used in designated sections on them. Below is a photo of the dial in the dark. Although not as bright as other Prospex models, the illumination is sufficient for referencing in the dark.

 

As seen in the photo below, the edge of the sapphire crystal window is set slightly beyond the fixed bezel. Visually interesting but it increases the possibility of side impact damage.



The two crowns can also be seen in the photo above. The primary crown is a screw-down and located at the 3 o'clock position while the internal bezel crown is located at 4 o'clock. Unlike the previous generation, the crowns are are now sterile (unsigned). Note also the short and downward curving lugs.


Unlike the previous generations, the current Alpinist now has a display case-back. Although the dial front is sapphire crystal, the display case-back is Hardlex crystal. The Seiko Caliber 6R35 can be clearly seen.

The 6R35 automatic movement was introduced in 2019. It has 24 jewels and operate at 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertz. Power reserve is impressive at 70 hours. Seiko has stated that the 6R35 movement would register an accuracy of between +25 seconds per day to -15 seconds per day.

I was able to do a quick accuracy test using the Toolwatch application. In the first test, straight out of the box, the watch recorded an accuracy rate of +14.9 seconds per day on the first try. Although this is within the stated accuracy rate of this movement by the manufacturer, I was convinced that the actual accuracy was better. After a few days of continuous wearing (to allow the movement to "settle-in"), I tested the accuracy again. For the second test, I was able to record a vast improvement in accuracy to +7.9 seconds per day (see the results of the two tests below).



The Bracelet

The SRPB117J1 is the only Alpinist in the series that comes with a bracelet as standard. Seiko has decided to equipped the SRPB117J1 with the dress-watch style push-button clasp instead of the sportier push-button clasp with safety flap used on most Prospex series.




The Wearing Experience

A lot of people especially those with smaller wrist sizes will find the Alpinist to be a superbly wearable. I find the watch to be perfect in dimension for my 6.75 inch wrist. You can use it for any occasion. The 200 meter water resistance rating even allows you to swim with it.



In the series of photos above, you can see the watch on my wrist from various angles. Visually, I would have preferred the bracelet to have some level of tapering from 20 mm at the lugs to 16 mm at the clasp. By having the tapering, it would create the same profile like that of the other models that comes standard with a strap. To me, the bracelet seems to overwhelmed the watch casing.

Apart from the bracelet design, it is also important to note the differences between the models in the series. To recap, below is a table of the differences between the SPB117J1 and the rest of its siblings:

SRPB117J1	Its siblings
Stainless steel bracelet	Leather straps
White plus red text	Uniform coloured text
Uniform primary markers	Alternating primary markers

These differences are the reason why I chose the SPB117J1 compared to the rest. I believe that in the future, the SPB117J1 will be a minority which would provide some form of valuation premium over the rest of its siblings.



Earlier in the review I highlighted that the addition of a magnifying eye over the date aperture  disrupts the visual flow of the dial. The addition of the magnifier has polarised a lot of fans. Personally, I don't care much about having a magnifier as it disrupt the symmetry of the crystal. Since I am a collector, if Seiko's designers deemed it necessary, I am fine with it.



Specifications

Movement: Caliber 6R35 automatic with manual winding capacity
Jewels: 24
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +25 seconds per day to -15 seconds per day
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on inner surface plus magnifier for the date
Illumination: LumiBrite on hands and markers
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Clasp: Three-fold clasp with push button release
Water Resistance: 20 bar
Dimension: Thickness 13.2 mm; Width 39.5 mm; Length 46.4 mm

Lug Width: 20 mm
Weight: 147 gm

Complications: Date, inner rotating compass bezel
Release Date: January 2020
MSRP: RM3,925, YEN77,000; USD750
Purchase Date: 25 January 2020
Purchase Price: RM2,747
Serial Number: 980228


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