Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black Reference GL0311 (similar to GL0309, GL0310, GL0312, GL0313, GL0314 & GL0315) - A Touch of Nostalgia and Coolness, A Review (plus Video)

This is the second Glycine example in the collection. The first was the Glycine Combat 6 Vintage GL0122 which I got in May 2019. That particular Glycine is from the Combat range. The second Glycine is also a vintage inspired design. The historic Glycine SST collection is one of the most coveted vintage timepieces by the brand and Glycine has decided to relaunch it with some modern improvements. This particular timepiece is from the Airman range.

 

The Glycine SST GMT series was officially launched in 2021. It was listed on Gnomon Watches Singapore then but I did not get it as there were other priorities and the price was rather on the high side. It was only during the Christmas season of 2023 that Gnomon Watches Singapore had a special seasonal discount that it became feasible acquisition for me.

With an offering of a 17.1% discount from MSRP, I quickly put in an order. The model I got is the Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black GL0311. Typical of Gnomon Watches Singapore packaging service, I received the package four days later.

The Series

First introduced in 1967, the Glycine SST or “SuperSonic Transport” drew inspiration from the supersonic “Jet Age” in the 1970s during the arrival of jet-powered supersonic airliners such as the Concorde and the Russian Tupolev. Equipped with Felsa Bidyanator automatic movements in a tonneau style case, the watch featured an ingenious AM/PM 24 hour dial and the ability to track a second time zone through an inner-rotating bezel. This convenient feature is utilized by pilots and business travellers alike. This function made Glycine famous. 

Bearing a close resemblance to the case shape of the original, the models of the new Glycine Airman SST series which was launched in 2021, are presented in stainless steel, in a shape that rests between a cushion style and tonneau casing.

Below are the models under the series.

GL0309 MSRP CHF2050 Black & orange dial Bracelet	GL0310  MSRP CHF2050 Blue dial Bracelet
GL0311  MSRP CHF2050 Black dial  Bracelet	GL0312 MSRP CHF1950 Black dial Rubber strap
GL0313 MSRP CHF2150 Silvery black dial  Dual tone Gold/Steel bracelet	GL0314 MSRP CHF2150 Silvery black dial Full PVD bracelet
GL0315 MSRP CHF2100 Black & orange dial PVD and rubber strap	Glycine was founded in 1914 by the ingenious Eugène Meylan, in Bienne, Switzerland.

For me, the blue dial (GL0310) and the black dial (GL0311) are clear favourites as the dial information is clearly visible. Unfortunately, only the black dial version was available from Gnomon Watches, Singapore.

The Watch

Made from high quality 316L stainless steel, the GL0311 has an interesting hybrid casing, in-between a cushion style casing and a tonneau style casing. This design matches closely to the original SST. Although the diameter of the watch is rather on the high side of 43 mm, the lug-to-lug length is just 46 mm, thanks to design of the casing and short lugs.

On the dial itself there are three distinctive timing scales. At the edge is the 24 hours GMT scale with the upper quadrant having a black background and the lower quadrant having a grey quadrant (to signify night and morning periods). Next to it is the train-track minute scale. At every 5th minute, a red triangle is provided. Finally, the hour markers in the form of painted numbers with SuperLuminova luminous paint. Note that the hour marker for 6:00 has been replaced by a rectangular cut aperture for the date. Glycine re-positioned the red triangle above the aperture but pointing downward instead.

 

I am surprised that Glycine chose a date wheel that has a white background. A negative style date wheel is more appropriate in my opinion.

There are only four lines of text and logo on the dial. All are pointed directly on the dial in white. Meanwhile, the hands have a mixture of designs. The hours hand is an arrowhead design and painted with luminous paint. The minutes hand is a sword design and painted with luminous paint. The seconds hand is a rapier design with circular discs at end and midway to the front of the hand. Only the second disc is painted with luminous paint. Only the GMT hand is fully painted in red and has a thin arrow-like design.

 

The edge of the dial is an internal bezel which has the world-timer scale printed in white over a black background. For Bienne, the word is printed in red to signify the significance of the city as this is where Glycine is headquartered. The internal bezel is bi-directional and is controlled by the special crown at 2:00. This particular crown has no screw-down features, smooth side and has a deep trench cut into the top surface. Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with three layers of AR protection.

The primary crown with has gear-tooth sides and signed top. The crown in a screw-down and is partially protected as it sets halfway into the casing.  

 

The case-back is a screw-down and has a nice etching in the center. In the photo below, you can also the the short curved lugs which measure 22 mm wide. I would prefer it if there are pass-through lug holes as it would easily facility strap changes.

Underneath the case-back sits the GL293 automatic movement. This movement is essentially the Swiss ETA 2893-2. Operating at 28,800 BPH with hacking and hand winding capabilities, this 25-jewel movement a power reserve of 42 hours. Meanwhile, the watch boasts a water resistance of 200 meters.

The watch comes paired with a 5-piece linked steel bracelet alternating between brushed and polished surfaces. It uses a butterfly clasp with a signed section.

 

As highlighted earlier, important areas on the dial has been painted with SuperLuminova. Below is a photo of how the illumination would look in the dark. The hands are sufficiently illuminated but the illumination on the numbers for the hour markers is rather weak. 

The Wearing Experience

 

This watch brings a touch of nostalgia and coolness. It looks bulky but it sits well on my 6.75 inch circumference wrist. Although the dial may look 'busy' with a lot of information, the information is not difficult to see.

 

I really find the vintage design of the GL0311 to be its best feature. If given the choice between this re-make versus the original Airman, I will take the GL0311.

Specifications

Model: GL0311 

Year: 2021 

Collection: Airman Series SST 

Case Material: Stainless Steel 

Case Size: 43 mm

Case Thickness: 11 mm

Lug-to-Lug: 46 mm

Lug Width: 22 mm 

Case Back: Screw-down solid steel plate

Crown Type: Screw-down crown at 2:00 and 4:00

Crystal: Flat sapphire with 3 layers of anti-reflective coating on the underside

Dial Color: Black 

Luminous Material: SuperLuminova on hands and hour markers

Band Material: Stainless Steel 

Band Length: 173.6 mm 

Bezel Type: Inner rotating world time bezel controlled by the 2:00 crown

Clasp Type: Butterfly 

Function Type: Automatic Movement 

Caliber: GL293 Movement 

Jewels: 25 

Frequency: 28,800 BPH (4 Hertz)

Power Reserve: Approximately 42 hours

Functions: Central hours; central minutes; central sweeping seconds; central GMT hand; date

Control: Via the 4:00 crown

Water Resistance: 200 meter

Weight: 163 gm

Vendor: Gnomon Watches, Singapore

MSRP: RM4,955.00

Purchase Date: 16 December 2023 (delivered by DHL on 20 December 2023)

Purchase Price: RM4,104.90

Serial Number: 1067591

Warranty: Two (2) years

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