Tissot Heritage 1973 Limited Edition Reference T124.427.16.031.00 - Tissot was able to Capture the Essence of the Original, A Review (plus Video)

The last time I bought a Tissot for the collection was in 2011 when I visited Switzerland for a family holiday. All this while, I have been eyeing a number of its classically designed models under the Visodate range. Unfortunately, these models were never up there in terms of priority. However, in 2019, Tissot launched the Heritage 1973 limited edition timepiece to commemorate its involvement in motorsports back in the 1970s.

In 1976 Tissot entered the world of F1 when the brand became the official backer of young driver called Loris Kessel. Although Kessel isn't as well known as some of his contemporaries, he was a true motorhead. He not only raced, but also created Kessel Classics, a Swiss shop that specializes in campaigning classic race cars in historic races around the world as well as running a Swiss motor racing team under the same brand name. The operation is located in the canton of Tessin, Switzerland. Tissot is currently in partnership with the racing team, Kessel Classics. The Tissot Heritage 1973 was introduced to celebrate the Tissot’s relationship to motorsport and the Kessel branding.

Although the Tissot Heritage 1973 was launched in 2019, it was only recently highlighted on Tissot's Malaysian website. I tried to get one from two of my dependable dealers but both gave me the same answer: the Tissot dealership has none left. Only after I got to my third dealer that I got a more favorable answer. The only unfortunately thing is that I have to pay full retail price to get it.

The Series

There are four models in the series. Apart from the one under review, the other three models are not limited editions. The limited edition model was launched in 2019 when the rest were launched in 2020.

Surprisingly, not all the models can be found in just one sale jurisdiction. Going through the various Tissot's national websites, the limited edition timepiece is available in Malaysia while the three non-limited edition pieces are not available. For the US based website, only the three non-limited edition are available. 

Panda Recrafted Limited edition of 1973 units Year 2019 ETA Valjoux 7753 48 hours power reserve Ref: T124.427.16.031.00 MSRP: RM9,000 Available in Malaysia	Panda Reinterpretation Standard production Year 2020 ETA Valjoux A05.H31 (7753 modified) 60 hours power reserve Ref: T124.427.16.031.01 MSRP: USD2,100 Available in USA
Black Reinterpretation Standard production Year 2020 ETA Valjoux A05.H31 (7753 modified) 60 hours power reserve Ref: T124.427.16.051.00 MSRP: USD2,100 Available in USA	Blue Reinterpretation Standard production Year 2020 ETA Valjoux A05.H31 (7753 modified) 60 hours power reserve Ref: T124.427.16.041.00 MSRP: USD2,100 Available in USA

Apart from the different colours for the various dials, The rotor is also different between the limited edition piece and the rest. Tissot also did a small modification on the ETA7753, improving the power reserve to 60 hours for the three non-limited edition models. This modified movement is the ETA Valjoux A05.H31. More about this later.

The limited edition model has a solid rotor and painted golden

The rotors on the standard production models have triangular holes and painted grey

The Watch

The Tissot Heritage 1973 took its inspiration from the Tissot Navigator Chronograph of 1973. It is not a straight copy but an adaptation, incorporating the best of the vintage design plus newer architecture for a more effective timepiece.

Tissot Navigator Chronograph of 1973 (taken from the internet)

From the photo above, you can clearly the original inspiration does not have a 30-minute chronograph counter sub-dial at 3:00 and the date aperture is at 3:00 instead of 4:30 on the new recrafted model.

The Tissot Heritage 1973 is made out of stainless steel 316L case with sunburst brushed and polished surfaces. The casing is tonneau or cushion shaped and is 43.0 mm wide. Lug-to-lug is approximately 46.6 mm. The height has been exaggerated by the boxed sapphire crystal which stood at 15.2 mm tall. All the controls are located right of the casing (apart from the date corrector pusher at 10:00). With such a sizable watch, it is good that the design calls for shorten lugs which make the timepiece acceptable to those with slimmer wrists. On my 6.75 inch wrist, the watch sits properly (only just).  

The panda dial, with silver-plated main surface as well as the three matte black sub-dials in a symmetrical tri-compax arrangement is visually appealing. 

The logo print, the tachymeter even the black outline of the indexes are identical (the actual size may differ but the design is unmistakably the same) to the Tissot Navigator Chronograph of 1973. Its chronograph hands are orange. The hour and minute hands are rectangular batons with white line on the upper half of the hands. The hands and indexes have Super-LumiNova coating.

To create the depth effect to the fullest, Tissot used a separate ring for the tachymeter which is then applied directly to the dial. Coupled with the effect of the boxed sapphire crystal, the angle of the chapter ring where the tachymeter sits is augmented to give the effect of distance within the dial.

Apart from the logo and brand name located on the upper quadrant of the dial, the only other text observable are the words "SWISS MADE" just below the bottom sub-dial. 

 

Protecting the dial is a boxed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The boxed crystal added an additional 2.5 mm to the height of the watch. Officially, Tissot declared the watch to be 14.8 mm tall but by using a caliper, I measured the height (to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal) to be higher at 15.2 mm. In fact, the length of the watch which Tissot claimed to be 46.6 mm also appears to be under-stated. By my measurement, the actual lug-to-lug is more at 49.5 mm.

On the right side of the casing are the main controls for the watch. The two pushers (at 2:00 and 4:0) which has knurling texture on the sides as well as the signed crown (3:00) are sizeable and easy to manipulate. The crown uses a push/pull mechanism to engage the controls for the movement. When fully pushed in, one can manually wind the watch. Pulling out the crown will engage the gears to adjust the time. Adjusting the date wheel requires a different method. Using the tool provided with the watch, one need to push a small dimple built on the side of the casing located at 10:00. Continue to push that dimple until the correct date is shown through the date aperture.

The short lugs help in the wear-ability of the watch for those with slender wrists. As it stands, the lug-to-lug length is 49.5 mm which may not feasible to a number of people. The leather straps that come standard with the watch has a nice racing-theme design with four (4) circular holes on each side of the straps. The 22 wide leather straps are connected to a machined stainless steel butterfly clasp. 

 
The display case-back of this watch is not a screw-down but uses a simple press-on system. Despite this rather 'simple' system and the fact that the crown is also not a screw-down (as well as the pushers), the watch is still water rated to 100 meters. Personally, I do not want to test this and I strongly advice from taking it for a swim (anyway, the leather strap may not take to kindly to being soaked). Although the front is covered by sapphire crystal, the display window at the back is just made out of normal mineral crystal.

Visible through the display window is the ETA/Valjoux Caliber 7753. This is a variation of the famous Caliber 7750. Where the Caliber 7750 sub-dials are at 6:00 (12-hour chronograph), 9:00 (continuous 60-seconds) and 12:00 (30-minute chronograph), the Caliber 7753 shifted the sub-dial at 12:00 to 3:00. Two further differences on the Caliber 7753 are the lack of a day complication and the need for a date corrector pusher (no rapid-reset function for the date display via the crown unlike the Caliber 7750).

From the internet

This is a self-winding chronograph movement with manual winding. The operating frequency is 28,800 BPH or 4 Hertz. It has 27 jewels and about 48 hours of power reserve. The solid rotor is painted golden and signed with the brand name. 

As highlighted earlier, a modified Caliber 7753 (Codenamed ETA Valjoux A05.H31) is used in the non-limited models under the series (see the previous section on The Series). Tissot upgraded it by fitting a more robust automatic cam-lever which increased the power reserve from 48 to 60 hours. The rotor is partially skeletonised and engraved.

Below is a photo of the watch under low light conditions. Personally, the level of illumination is more than adequate for this watch. One must understand that the Tissot Heritage 1973 is not designed to be used in the dark unlike military style watches.

The Wearing Experience

Vintage sports chronograph design is becoming a 'thing' with me. I realised that I have been collecting quite a number of watches with this styling in last few years. Just to name a few, I got the Zenith Revival El Primero A384, Seiko Presage 55th Anniversary SRQ031J1, Seiko Prospex 50th Anniversary SRQ029J1 and the Hamilton American Classic Chrono-Matic 50. This Tissot Heritage 1973 makes a great addition to the collection.

I must admit that the watch has a substantial presence on the wrist. Due to the 'zero-length' lug design, the 49.5 mm length of the watch basically the circumference of the watch (give-or-take). Below is a video of the watch on my 6.75 inch wrist.

Years ago when I was just starting this hobby, I used to think chronograph watches have too much information on their dials. The numerous hands and sub-dials require the user to concentrate more to understand the information being shown. Today, I realised the numerous ways one can use the chronograph function in day-to-day life. This has make me look at chronograph watches in a new light.

The genesis behind the Tissot Heritage 1973 is an interesting piece of history. The classic C-shape design is evergreen and and the racing-style leather strap create a certain 'handsomeness' that one can clearly see and appreciate. The size may not be feasible to some but it wears well and has a wrist presence that is hard to beat.

If you prefer darker colours on your watch, Tissot has a few other options (see the section on The Series). Although the other options may not be available in most jurisdictions, with the power of the internet, you can easily source for one.

Overall, I am pleased with the watch. Tissot was able to capture the essence of the original. The look and feel of the watch remains iconic and this makes this model a sure win in my book.

The Packaging

As the Tissot Heritage 1973 model I got is a limited edition piece, the packaging is different. The main watchbox is kept in a thick white cardboard box signed with the brand name and logo.   

Apart from the watch and pillow, Tissot also provided a dedicated tool to engage the date corrector pusher. The baseplate where the watch, pillow and special tool reside can be lifted out of the main watchbox to reveal a space to keep important documents about the watch.

Apart from the 2-year global warranty card and manual, Tissot also added a credit card-sized Certificate of Authenticity as additional proof of the uniqueness of this particular model. In this case, a certificate for unit #1177 out of 3,000 units available globally.

My dealer was also able to throw in a nice Tissot branded collar T-shirt as a parting gift.

  

Specifications

Manufacturer: Tissot SA, Chemin des Tourelles 17, 2400 Le Locle, Switzerland
Reference number: T1244271603100

Production: Limited edition of 1973 units
Dial: White with black counters, 500 km/h tachymetre scale

Timing Display: Hours, minutes and small seconds

Chronograph Display: Main seconds hand, counters for 30 minutes and 12 hours 

Date Display: Date aperture at 4:30

Controls: Crown at 3:00; Chronograph pushers at 2:00 and 4:00; Corrector pusher at 10:00 to set date

Case Material: Stainless steel 316L case with brushed and polished surfaces

Case Shape: Tonneau (cushion shape)

Window: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating (front), flat mineral glass (back)

Crown System: Push in/pull out

Illumination: Main hands and markers with Super-LumiNova

Case Dimensions (Official): 43.00 mm wide, 14.8 mm tall, 46.6 mm length 

Case Dimensions (Measured): 43.0 mm wide, 15.2 mm tall, 49.5 mm length

Lugs: 22.00 mm

Weight: 125 gm

Strap Type: Perforated strap with stainless-steel safety clasp 

Strap Colour: Black

Strap Material: Front calfskin leather, back synthetic

Buckle: Butterfly clasp with push-buttons

Strap Reference: T600038130 (XL T610038132)

Movement: ETA Valjoux 7753 “Elaboré” automatic chronograph (introduced in 2002)

Frequency: 28,800 BPH, 4 Hertz 

Jewels: 27 jewels

Additional Functions: Stop seconds function, quick reset for date display, manual winding
Shock System Incabloc
Winding Direction: Uni-directional clockwise 
Power Reserve: 48 hours power reserve

Dimensions: 30.0 mm diameter, 7.9 mm height

Accuracy: <Not stated>

Water Resistant: 100 meters

Warranty: 2 years

MSRP: RM9,000, EUR2,030, USD2,100, CHF1,995

Vendor: Style Watch, Mid Valley Megamall

Product Launch Date: 2019

Purchase Date: 1 March 2021

Purchase Price: RM9,000

Serial Number: 1177/1973

Photo Gallery

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