Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel “Devil Diver” Reference 98B320 - A Beautiful 1970s Dive Watch Reproduction, A Review (plus Video)

The Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel was given the nickname “Devil Diver” by virtue of its water rating of ‘666’ feet. Launched in 2018, this model was a reissue based on a design made in 1972. Unlike other famous watches in that era, the Oceanographer was not as spectacular. In reality, the timepiece can be construed as a typical basic tool-watch. Nevertheless, it has that classic 1970s vibes that is unmistakably cool and attractive.

I have been eyeing the watch ever since it was introduced to the market in 2018. Unfortunately, the Bulova brand is not well covered in Malaysia. It is only via Amazon US that I was able to acquire one. As Malaysia is currently in a lockdown due to Covid19, I was apprehensive in making the order but thankfully, the package arrived safely and earlier than originally scheduled by Amazon.

This is the first Bulova to be part of the collection.

(Very) Short History on Bulova and its Dive Watches

Bulova is an American watch brand founded in 1875 and owned by the Citizen Watch Co of Japan. It is based in New York City. Some of the famous lines under the brand are the Accutron, the Computron and the Apollo 15 watch. I decided not to provide more information about the brand as the same information is already available elsewhere. For more, please visit www.bulova.com. 

The brand released its first dive watches in 1961. In 1969, Bulova introduced the Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel and quickly became the most popular model for the brand. It featured a crosshair dial and applied cylindrical glass-like luminescent indexes. A couple of advertisements in the 1970s that was obtained from the internet are attached above and below.

The term "Devil Diver" was the name referred to every dive watch by Bulova with a depth rating of 666 feet (or 203m). In those days, most dive watches came with the typical water rating of 600 feet. This unofficial nickname was great for PR and it helped built a franchise that was effectively free for the brand.

The early Devil Divers came in compressor cases built by a famous case maker Ervin Piquerez SA, also known as EPSA. 

 

The Watch

The 2018 Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel “Devil Diver” is based on the 1972 version. Made out of 316L stainless steel, it looks nearly identical to the vintage model. It has the C-shape case with polished surfaces, but has been upsized to 44 mm from the original 41 mm. It is a tall watch at 14.55 mm accentuated by the boxed sapphire crystal. Lug width is 20 mm while the lug-to-lug length is 46 mm.

The general layout and design of the black dial is the same. Looking at the dial like you would peer into a telescopic sight, you can clearly see the crosshair graphic in red. You would also find the large applied, cylindrical luminescent hour markers as well as the sword minutes and hours hands and the lollipop seconds hand. The date aperture is at 3:00 and immediately above it, a square magnifying cyclops is position underneath the sapphire crystal.

For the text, an applied Bulova signature is located at the upper quadrant with the word  “OCEANOGRAPHER” underneath it. On the lower quadrant, the words, “AUTOMATIC,” “SNORKEL,” and “666 FEET” are located.

There are a couple of interesting features on this watch that I have not seen before. Each cylindrical luminescent hour markers are set by four spindly legs similar to how jewelers set diamonds on rings creates depth as well as a visual spectacle. In some reviews, it was mentioned that the cylinders are made out of either sapphire, mineral glass or plastic. Most likely it is plastic.

Another interesting feature is the underside square cyclops eye over the date aperture. I always find cyclops eye on top of a crystal as too distracting. To me it looks like the watch has a 'pimple'. By placing it underneath the crystal, the overall outer shape of the watch appears more symmetrical. The placement also shows how deep the internal chamber of the dial is.

The bezel has a two-toned colour. Red for the first 15 minutes, and black for the rest. Only the triangle marker is painted with Super-LumiNova. Instead of steel, aluminum, crystal or ceramic inserts, Bulova opted for an acrylic inlay. This is a first for the collection.

The bezel remains true to the original 1970s design. The unidirectional bezel has a ratcheting system that is loud yet satisfying. It takes 60 clicks for a complete rotation. As shown in the picture above, although the edge of the bezel's grip surface is thin, having a coin-edge helps in having a good grip especially when you have wet hands. 

The signed screw-down crown with its gear-tooth surface is also similar to the original. Once screwed-down, the crown is partially protected by the gap cut into the casing.   

The solid screw-down case-back plate is sterile of any graphics apart from the reference text regarding the watch. I would be happy to see something artful on the case-back but Bulova kept it simple as per the original design. Do note that the notation at the center of the case-back is actually printed on a sticker and not etched on the metal surface.

Underneath the case-back is the Miyota Caliber 821D movement. This automatic movement operate at a frequency of 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertz. The stated accuracy ranges from -20 seconds per day to +40 seconds per day. This caliber has a power reserve of 42 hours but does not have a seconds hand stop (hacking) mechanism. A photo of the movement is shown on the right (photo taken from the internet).

As you can see, the movement is a basic workhorse from Miyota with no intricate designs on any part. Not an issue since there is no display case-back to view it on the watch anyway.

The level of accuracy is acceptable for a watch at this price point. 

The whole case construction has allowed the watch to have a water rating of 666 feet or 200 meters. The watch is also ISO6425 certified dive watch.

The bracelet is also an accurate replica of the original. The center-links are satin-brushed while the side links are polished. Due to the short nature of the links, the bracelet moves and sway like liquid. Very 1970s indeed. The butterfly clasp has safety buttons and a fold-over safety latch as well. The clasp has three micro-adjustment points as well as a simple diver's extension, adding an additional 3 cm to the bracelet length.

My only gripe is the press metal pieces used for the bridge between the two parts of the bracelet. I would have preferred a machined part just for the aesthetics.

The bracelet (which is made in China) is 20 mm wide at the the lugs and tapers to 18 mm at the clasp.

Below is the illumination on the dial of the watch. Unfortunately, I did not take a photo in darkness but in the photo below, even in relatively bright surroundings, the luminescence from the Super-LumiNova paint on the cylindrical markers, hands and diving timer pip is obvious.

The Wearing Experience

As a dive watch, the Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel “Devil Diver” is not as bulky as some of its modern contemporaries. All its features found on the original 1970s design has not gone out of fashion. Instead, the whole design package is evergreen; it is relevant today as it was then. 

For me, the C-shape design of the casing, the boxed crystal and the bracelet are the three important physical characteristics that defines the watch and are also the reasons why I fell in love with it. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist (I got a 6.75 inch circumference wrist).

 

 

Although some may argue about the quality of the bracelet or the choice of automatic movement used, I believe these arguments must take into context the price point of the watch. Let's face it, it is very affordable. With a MSRP of USD795, you get an automatic movement, 200 meter ISO certified dive watch and a boxed sapphire crystal, all under a famous brand. At this price, who cares if the automatic movement does not 'hack'. The watch is extremely handsome and fits well event with formal attire.

Overall, I am very happy to get my hands on one.

 Specifications

Manufacturer: Bulova Corporation, Empire State Building, 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10118
Reference Number: 98B320
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Movement: Self-winding (unidirectional) mechanical Caliber Miyota 821D, 21,600 BPH (3Hz)

Power Reserve: Approx. 42-hours 

Jewels: 21

Accuracy: -20～+40 sec per day

Caliber Dimensions: diameter = 26 mm, height = 5.67 mm
Case: Stainless steel with solid case-back, screw-in crown, sapphire crystal with blue anti-reflective coating

Water Resistant: 200 meters
Bracelet and Cla­sp: Stainless steel with push-button folding clasp and safety latch
Case Dimensions: diameter = 44 mm, height = 14.55 mm, length = 46 mm, lugs = 20 mm

Weight: xx grams

Purchase Date: 12 February 2021 (delivered 23 February 2021)

Purchase Price: USD626.69; RM2,591.07

Vendor: Amazon

Serial Number: 23807853 98B320 C8771053

Release Date: 2018
MSRP Price: USD795

Photo Gallery

s