Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition ST1901 - A Near-Perfect Watch for its Price, with Overall Appeal and Historical Significance, A Review (plus Video)

The first watch to join the collection in 2025. The Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot has been said to be a watch that any watch collector should consider adding. The history behind the watch is inspiring especially if one considers going into the watch making business from scratch.

 

Despite having been a collector for many years, I did not get a chance to pursue this model until now. While going through Amazon, I happened to find the page by Seagull and on it is an offering for the Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition ST1901.

 

To be honest, I would not have gotten my hands on an original but a reissued modernized timepiece by the same factory is possible and would be awesome. The offer was very enticing. Coupled with a few coupons that I have with Amazon, I was able to get the watch at an unbelievable price after discount.

 

I quickly put in an order on 3 February 2025 and exactly two weeks later, I got the watch via courier.

 THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

 

 

 

History 

 

Founded in 1955, the Tianjin Watch Factory started in Tianjin, the oldest industrial city in China. Four craftsmen (Mr. Jiang, Mr. Sun, Mr. Wang and Mr. Zhang) working out of a single room workshop were tasked by government mandate with creating the first domestically produced watch in the nation's history. Given a modest budget and 100 days to make the watch, they produced the "Wu Xing (Five Stars)" watch on 24 March 1955 - a simple three-handed watch with hour/minute/seconds hands featuring Arabic numeral applied indices, a central star emblem, and "Made in China" printed on the dial. Out of these humble beginnings, Tianjin Watch Factory (eventually becoming Seagull, as it's known today) was born (Historical note: Although 1955 was the year the factory proudly celebrated its establishment but technically, the use of the name “Tianjin Watch Factory” only appeared in 1957 and it wasn’t until 5 January 1962, it is officially registered and recognised by that name).

The first watch made by the Tianjin Watch Factory - the "Wu Xing" (or Five Stars)

 

The group would go on to produce the first Chinese large scale production watch by 1958 called the "Wu Yi (51)," recognizable by its "51" emblem.

 

 

In 1961, the Tianjin Watch Factory was entrusted with a significant task, to create the first inaugural Chinese aviation watch for the Chinese Liberation Army Air Force, known as Project D304. To accomplish this, the engineering team journeyed to Switzerland, securing patents and machinery from the Swiss chronograph manufacturer Venus for the Venus 175 column wheel chronograph. After a year of experimentation, the original 1963 Chronograph was then born. Although the watch is marked with 1963 which is the year its final prototype confirmed, sample productions continued to run until October 1965 when it passed all stringent tests to meet military standards. The first official production batch rolled off assembly line in October 1966, where some 1,400 Pilot’s Chronograph finally made their way to the front line.  

 

 

 

 

The Watch

 

The particular model I ordered from Seagull is faithful to the original model commissioned for the Chinese Air Force in 1960s. Its design is a masterclass in vintage aesthetics, with a cream-colored dial that exudes warmth and character. The dial features bold Arabic numerals, a combination of red and blue accents, and a subtle outer tachymeter scale, all of which contribute to its military-inspired look. The syringe-style hands and the sub-dials for the chronograph function (30-minute counter at 3:00 and sub-seconds at 9:00) are perfectly proportioned, ensuring excellent legibility.

 

 

There are other manufacturers not associated to the Tianjin Watch Factory that produces their own interpretation of the "Seagull 1963 Chronographs". A common theme that can differentiate them from the original manufacturer is size where these other manufacturers tend to up-size it to a 40 mm or more case diameter when the original was just 38 mm wide. 

 

Made out of stainless steel, it measures in at 37.3 mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug length of 47.3 mm. After taking into consideration the domed mineral crystal, the height is substantial at 15.1 mm. It looks smaller than contemporary chronographs, but when you consider the bulbous thickness, the watch wears a bit larger than anticipated. Luckily, the lugs do curve down quite steeply reducing any wrist overhang. 

 

 

For a watch in this price range, the Seagull 1963 punches well above its weight in terms of build quality. The stainless steel case is finely brushed and polished, giving it a premium feel. The domed mineral glass crystal, while not as scratch-resistant as sapphire, is a good choice that enhances the watch’s vintage character as well as keeping the price point as low as possible. 

 

 

The coin-edge and unsigned crown uses a push-in/pull-out system. Due to the proximity of the pushers (see the photo above), for me, there is some difficulty trying to wind the watch. Also note that the top surface of the crown and the pushers are painted with blue. I am not sure if this is part of the overall design or a pre-production coating to protect the parts from scratches as the watch is being assembled. I tend to support the latter theory as you can clearly see that the painting was done quite haphazardly.

 

 

 

The watch comes with a NATO strap, which is appropriate given its military heritage. However, the quality of the strap is somewhat basic, and many owners choose to upgrade to a leather or high-quality NATO strap to better complement the watch’s aesthetic. The lug width of 18 mm ensures compatibility with a wide range of aftermarket straps, allowing for easy customization.

 

Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, which is sufficient for everyday wear but not suitable for swimming or diving. This is a minor limitation, given the watch’s vintage-inspired design and intended use as a pilot’s chronograph.

 

 

The exhibition case back is a delightful addition, offering a view of the Seagull ST1901 movement. This feature is rare in watches at this price point and adds an extra layer of fascination for those who appreciate the intricacies of mechanical watchmaking.

 

 

The ST1901 movement, a hand-wound mechanical chronograph caliber based on the Venus 175. This movement is a piece of horological history in its own right, as it traces its lineage back to one of the most celebrated chronograph movements of the mid-20th century. Crafted by the Tianjin Watch Factory using the original machinery from the fifties and fully assembled by hand, it features 22 jewels and a robust 42-hour power reserve. What makes the upgraded Seagull ST19 movement special is its Blue Swan Neck Regulator. The swan neck regulator allows for better fine-tuning of the watch movement, ensuring precise timekeeping. The hand-winding ST1901 mechanical chronograph operates smoothly at a frequency of 21,600 BPH. It is also worth noting that the ST1901 has a column-wheel mechanism that ensures smooth operation of the chronograph functions.

 

In practice, the movement performs admirably. The chronograph starts, stops, and resets with a satisfying click, and the pushers have a tactile feel that adds to the overall experience. The 45-hour power reserve is more than sufficient for daily wear, and the movement’s accuracy is impressive for its price range, typically running within +/- 10 seconds per day. The hand-winding mechanism requires daily attention, but this ritual is part of the charm of owning a mechanical watch.
 

 

The Wearing Experience

 

The Seagull 1963 is an exceptional value proposition. For the price of a mid-range quartz watch, you get a mechanical chronograph with a historically significant movement, a beautifully designed case, and a level of craftsmanship that far exceeds its price point. It is an excellent entry point for those new to mechanical watches, as well as a compelling addition to any collector’s lineup. This watch is not just a tool for telling time; it’s a piece of history on your wrist, a conversation starter, and a testament to the enduring appeal of mechanical watchmaking.

While it may not have the prestige of a Swiss-made chronograph, the Seagull 1963 offers a unique combination of history, design, and performance that is hard to beat at this price. It’s a watch that punches well above its weight and offers tremendous value for money. 

The Seagull 1963 is a joy to wear, thanks to its compact case size and lightweight construction. It sits comfortably on the wrist, making it suitable for extended wear. The vintage design is versatile, pairing equally well with casual outfits and more formal attire. Whether you’re wearing it with a leather jacket or a suit, the Seagull 1963 adds a touch of understated elegance to your look.

The hand-wound nature of the watch requires daily winding, which may be a drawback for some but is a ritual that many mechanical watch enthusiasts enjoy. It’s a reminder of the watch’s mechanical heritage and adds to the overall experience of owning a piece of horological history. 

Below is a video of of the watch on my wrist.

 

 

The Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition ST1901 is a remarkable timepiece that offers a perfect blend of history, functionality, and affordability. Its vintage design, reliable movement, and excellent value make it a standout choice for watch enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. While it may not have the luxury finish of high-end Swiss watches, it more than makes up for it with its charm, character, and historical significance.

If you’re looking for a mechanical chronograph with a story to tell, the Seagull 1963 is an excellent choice. It’s a watch that not only tells time but also connects you to a rich horological heritage. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a newcomer to mechanical watches, the Seagull 1963 is a timepiece that deserves a place in your collection. 

 

The Packaging

 

The watch-box is a simple red rectangular cardboard box shrink-wrapped in plastic. The box has English and Chinese words printed in gold. 'International Edition' is just a reference to watches with English manual etc. and does not denote any special quality of production or otherwise when compared to the 'Standard Edition' (if there is such a thing). 

 

 

The box has a small section where the warranty card as well as the manual can be found.

 

 

 

Underneath the section is the watch itself in a cushioned slot and protected by a layer of plastic.

 

 

 

 

Specifications

 

Model: Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch International Edition
Movement: Seagull 3A Level ST1901, manual winding 

Material: Stainless steel
Dial diameter: 37.4 mm 

Lug-to-Lug Length: 46.6 mm

Height: 15.1 mm

Lug Width: 18.0 mm

Weight: 60 gm

Crystal: Boxed coated glass
Water rating: 30 meters 

Functionality: Time and chronograph functions

Frequency: 21,600 BPH

Jewels: 22

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Green textile NATO with pin buckle
Purchase Date: 3 February 2025

Vendor: Seagull via Amazon Store

MSRP: USD179.99

Purchase Price: USD126.82 (or RM577.66)

Arrival Date: 17 February 2025

Warranty: One (1) year

Reference: Not available

 

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