Rolex Oyster Perpetual 42 mm Explorer II White Dial Reference 226570 Polar - After 10 years of waiting...My Grail Watch, A Review (plus Video)

I have always resisted buying watches from anyone apart from authorized dealers. Today, is the day I finally bought my first watch from a grey dealer. The pricing is way above the MSRP but this watch is a grail to me and the premium paid is something that I can live with. Today, I present to you the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 42 mm Explorer II White Dial Reference 226570.

 

This is the first time that I bought a watch from a grey dealer.  After many frustrating meetings (for many years!) with Rolex ADs and their promises to put my name on "waiting lists", I've decided to search for an alternative source. The watch is legit and is covered by a Rolex warranty but the warranty is already running instead of being effective the day I bought the watch. The only snag is that the price has a premium above the MSRP. Nevertheless, this watch is on my grail list. Screw the premium. This watch is definitely a keeper. 

Of the two options available, I love the white dial the most. The other white dial Rolex in the collection is my Daytona 116520.  

  THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

The Series

 

With 2021 marking the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, watch enthusiasts awaited a new generation of Rolex's coolest (in my opinion) sports watch at Watches & Wonders in April 2021. In that event, Rolex released the Reference 226570 to replace the Reference 216570. Keeping the same 42 mm wide form but offering many minor exterior upgrades as well as a modern-generation in-house made Rolex automatic GMT movement. There are two models in the series.

 

White dial

Black dial

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II began life as a combination between the Rolex Explorer and the GMT-Master II. According to the story, Rolex developed the watch for cave explorers who used the GMT hand not necessarily to indicate the time in a second time zone, but rather as an AM/PM indicator. 

 

When Rolex upgraded to the 216570 from the previous generation Rolex Explorer II 16570, it made the case size 2 mm larger (from 40 mm to 42 mm wide) and also marked a return to the classic orange-colored GMT arrow hand. For the 226570, changes can be found in the bracelet, clasp, case, dial, movement and hands. 

For reference, this is the fifth iteration of the Explorer II which started with the reference 1655, followed by the 16550 and subsequently the 16570. These first three iterations are 40 mm wide. In 2011, the next iteration, the 216570 jumped to 42 mm wide. The fifth and current iteration (226570) maintained the 42 mm wide size.

 

The Watch

 

The 226570 has subtle refinements over the 216570 which makes the watch more palatable to the discerning Rolex enthusiasts. The sudden jump in size from the 16570 to the 216570 was shocking enough but beefing up the aspect ratios of all parts proportionally has impacted the wearing experience somewhat. For the 226570, the Rolex designers have trimmed slightly some of the dimensions (especially the lugs) to make it more wearer friendly. However, the 42.0 mm width remains.

 

 

 

Made using the 904L stainless steel aptly known as Oystersteel, the surface of the watch is mostly brushed. With a height of 12.5 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 50.0 mm, the Rolex Explorer II is sizeable. Couple with a weight of 161 gm (I took out 3 links), it is also noticeable on the wrist. 

 

The straight-walled chapter ring is polished and marked with the brand and model names all along the wall. The dial is lacquered white with black printed minute markers at the edge of the dial. The applied hour markers are framed in a black border and filled highly bright Chromalight display paint with long-lasting blue luminescence. There are seven lines of texts and logo on the dial. All are printed black on the dial except for the word "EXPLORER II" which is painted in orange.

The 3:00 hour marker has been replaced by a unframed date aperture. Personally, I would have shifted the location of the date aperture to 4:30 and retaining the hour marker at 3:00.

 

The hands of the 226570 are new to this latest Explorer II model and is coated in a matte black and filled with Chromalight display paint. The orange painted GMT hand also has the Chromalight display paint filled at its triangular tip.

Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal. I was made to understand that the 226570 has an anti-reflective coating application put on it unlike earlier iterations. The crystal is set slightly higher than the edge of the fixed bezel. To protect from chipping, the edge has been bevelled. A magnifying glass at 3:00 has been added to facilitate the visibility of the date window. The cyclops eye has been a subject of countless debate over the years. Personally, I don’t find it necessary. Best to having the crystal in a box or dome style instead. 

The fixed bezel has a radial brushed finish. It has a 24-hour scale combining numbers and triangular markers cut deep into the metal and painted black. As highlighted earlier, the top part of the bezel is slightly below the top part of the crystal. Hence the likelihood of the crystal suffering damage from side impact is there.

 

Note the lack of a pass-through lug holes. Personally I would recommend that this watch has them as it is widely known that owners love to change different straps depending on situations. It would make strap replacement a breeze.

The signed crown is located at 3:00 and protected by a pair of shoulders protruding from the casing. The crown is a screw-down. Nonetheless, the watch is only water rated to 100 meters. Rolex could do better especially now with the latest manufacturing techniques. Some brands can do watches with twice the depth rating without even needing a screw-down crown.

 

 

The case-back is unmarked. It is a screw-down underneath which the engine that powers the 226570 resides. This is the in-house made Rolex Caliber 3285 automatic movement which operates at 4 Hz with three days of power reserve. This Caliber is certified “Superlative Chronometer” which has an impressive accuracy of just plus or minus two seconds per day. This movements include the time with an independently adjustable GMT (24-hour) hand, as well as a date complication. Mechanically, the 3285 comes with the more efficient Chronergy escapement. It also has a Paraflex shock system, a paramagnetic blue Parachrom balance spring, and a rotor mounted on ball bearings.

The watch is paired with a new Oyster bracelet that starts at 22 mm at the lugs compared to 21 mm on the 216570. This change to the more industry common 22 mm makes it easy to find aftermarket straps. It also has a new clasp that closes a bit more securely and is also thinner on the wrist. The clasp has the Easylink system that enable 5 mm adjustment on the fly without tools.

 

The Chromalight paint used on the dial is bright and generate a pleasant blue luminescence. Below is a photo of the watch in the dark.

The Wearing Experience

 

The Rolex Explorer II 226570 offers a superb wearing experience, combining comfort, practicality, and timeless design. It's a watch that not only meets the demands of adventurers but also appeals to those who appreciate refined craftsmanship and versatile style.

Nevertheless, the Explorer II, while widely respected and admired, is not without its controversies. These range from design changes and market positioning to issues of availability and speculative buying, each contributing to ongoing debates among collectors, enthusiasts, and potential buyers. Personally, my pet peeves about the watch is only the availability factor. Anyway, below is the video of the watch on my wrist.

 

 

The Buying Experience

 

The last Rolex that came into the collection was the Daytona back in 2014. After a decade of waiting to get another opportunity to acquire another piece, I finally got another one. Nevertheless, I am disappointed with myself to have to go through the grey dealer network. I always advocate buying directly but unfortunately, I resorted going through this method as I was desperate to get my hands on a grail watch (for me).

This goes to show that Rolex has created an iconic model that transcends beyond the brand. However much you hate the brand for whatever reason, demand for its models remain strong and evergreen.

I had to pay a premium over the listed price but I didn’t care; I got my grail watch!

 

Specifications 

 

Case Architecture: Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Material: Oystersteel, a special alloy belonging to the 904L steel class

Bracelet: Oyster, three-piece solid links with folding safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension

Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire, cyclops lens over the date

Dial: Lacquered white with highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Bezel: Fixed, 24-hour graduated

Crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system

Water Rating: 100 metres / 330 feet

Diameter: 42.0 mm

length: 50.0 mm

Lug Width: 22.0 mm

Height: 12.5 mm

Weight: 161 gm (with 3 links removed)

Movement: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding, GMT function

Calibre: 3285, in-house by Rolex
Oscillator: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring; high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via perpetual rotor

Jewel: 31

Operating Frequency: 28,800 BPH (4 Hertz)
Precision: -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours 
Certification: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification) 
Functions:

• Centre hour, minute and seconds hands; 
• 24-hour display; 
• second time zone with independent rapid-setting of the hour hand; 
• instantaneous date; 
• stop-seconds for precise time setting 

Vendor: Hang Thai Watch, Bangsar Village

MSRP: RM42,650 (opening price from the grey dealer RM56,500)

Purchase Date: 6 April 2024

Purchase Price: RM54,000

Warranty: Five (5) years starting from 22 July 2023

Serial Number: 0817D369 

Photo Gallery

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE