Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Citizen Silver Leaf Lacquer Urushi Aquamarine Blue NB060-12L Automatic JDM (Similar to the NB1060-04A) - Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship with Modern Watchmaking, A Review (plus Video)

In July 2024, I had the opportunity to visit Japan, specifically the city of Kumamoto on the the island of Kyushu. I was excited as I would be able to get the chance to set my sights on JDMs (Japanese Domestic Models) from the stables of both Seiko and Citizen. 

One unintended question that I got answered is about availability. Contrary to popular belief, there is no Seiko or Citizen AD on every street corner in Japan. The number of ADs in Kumamoto is limited despite the fact that it is a vibrant town with a bullet train station.

Anyway, to cut the story short, my hunt turned out to be a disappointment. Nonetheless, there was a bright spot to the trip as the last location in Japan, before I left, Tokyo Haneda International Airport had a shop with a small selection of Japanese watches.

Not a lot of choices but it did carry JDM models. What caught my eye was the Citizen Silver Leaf Lacquer Urushi Aquamarine Blue NB1060-12L. The colour and the simplicity of the design was perfect. I have yet have a Urushi dial watch in the collection and this model is just the perfect specimen for the addition.

As the shop was located in the Duty Free section of the Airport, I was able to get a good deal.

The Series 

Citizen, renowned for its innovative approach to watchmaking, has once again delivered a timepiece that marries precision with elegance in the NB1060 series. The design is a testament to the brand's dedication to craftsmanship and its ability to cater to the discerning tastes of watch enthusiasts. There are currently two models under this series; the NB1060-04A and the NB1060-12L.

This design is a paragon of understated elegance. Its ethos is clearly minimalist, yet it exudes a quiet confidence that draws admiration. Featuring a 38.2 mm stainless steel case with a finely brushed finish and Duratect surface hardening coating, gives it a refined, sophisticated look without being overly flashy. The slim profile ensures it sits comfortably on the wrist, making it a versatile piece suitable for both formal and casual occasions. What truly shines about this series is the dial. The Citizen Silver Leaf Lacquer (Urushi) technique creates a dial surface that is both organic and unique. The base metal dial is made by applying a silver foil followed by a thin layer of pigment. It’s a dial that requires the right light to get the best out of it.

Citizen has classified this Made in Japan series as JDM-only production. Officially, one can only find this watches in Japan but there are ways of getting these watches if one is keen to do so. Below is a short description of the two models under this series.


Reference: NB1060-04A
Dial Technique: Silver foil lacquer dial
Dial Pigment: Silver
Strap: Cordovan black leather
MSRP: YEN137,500

Reference: NB1060-12L
Dial Technique: Silver foil lacquer dial
Dial Pigment: Aquamarine Blue
Strap: Blue calf leather
MSRP: YEN126,500

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

 


The Watch

The NB1060-12L is Citizen’s answer to Seiko relatively inexpensive formal watches, the Presage. Adopting the Urushi technique to paint the dial, NB1060-12L is not only beautiful but because of this technique, each dial has a unique pattern. 
 
 
 
Using 316L stainless steel as the base material, featuring a mixture of high-polished and satin-brushed surfaces. Citizen added another layer of sophistication in the form of the Duratect surface hardening coating technology which hardens the surface against scratches. Combining all these techniques, the 38.2 mm wide and 12.0 mm tall watch is a sight to behold (lug-to-lug length is 46.0 mm while the lug width is 19.0 mm). Paired with a leather strap, the whole package weighs in at just 72 gm.
 


The watch features a minimalist dial with a pattern that radiates as light reflects across its surface. The aquamarine blue is just beautiful to behold. However, at certain angles, the dial appears to be more deep dark mossy green than anything else. In fact, the dial feels very organic with a textured surface that shines and shimmers when hit by light at different angles. 
 
Coupled with dauphine-style hands, applied baton indices, and a double-baton at 12:00, as well as a date aperture at 3:00, the whole package is very practical. 
 


There are only three lines of text on the dial, the applied brand on the upper half while the other two are printed in white on the bottom half. Meanwhile, the dial is protected by a dual-curved and anti-reflective sapphire crystal and offers a respectable 100 meters of water-resistance.
 


Located at 3:00 is a sterile crown with a simple pull-out/push-in system. With this system in place, it is easier to manually wind and adjust the time and date. My only wish is that the crown is signed instead of just a polished surface. 
 


The lug with on the watch is 19.0 mm. Not a typical width but possible to replace it with a 20.0 mm wide strap. 
 
Paired a with blue calf leather strap with deployant clasp. The whole package exudes sophistication. Like the dial, the leather strap also has that effect of looking more green when hit by light at certain angles.
 
 
The screw-down case-back has a display window made out of sapphire crystal. Through the window you can see the Citizen Caliber 9011. The automatic movement is hacking and hand-winding, adding convenience for those who enjoy manually setting and winding their watch. The skeleton rotor is rather fancy but apart from the shape, no other surface treatment can be seen. Nonetheless, the movement is functional and robust, adhering to Citizen’s reputation for reliability.
 

 
There is no luminous paint on the watch. Hence, it is not visible in very low light. However, this is not a negative against this watch. The lacquer Urushi dial is the star of the show and it needs to be the only focus to truly appreciate its uniqueness. Personally, when looking intently at the dial, it feels that I am diving head first into the sea.



 
The Wearing Experience 

This is a striking watch that blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with modern watchmaking. The aquamarine Urushi lacquer dial is a masterpiece on its own, elevating this timepiece into the realm of fine horology. For those who appreciate subtle luxury and unique designs, this Citizen JDM offering is a hidden gem, showcasing what Citizen can achieve beyond its more mainstream offerings. At its price point, it offers a great blend of design, craftsmanship, and performance. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.



The Purchasing Experience

Tokyo Haneda International Airport is a large hub. It has a huge retail area for shops but surprisingly, there are no standalone shop that sells watches, especially famous Japanese brands. After asking a few staff in the airport, I was directed to go to this shop: Japan Mastery Collection.


This is the only shop (I was told) that carries Japanese watch brands in the airport.


Specifications 

Reference: NB1060-12L
Materiel: Stainless steel with Duratect Platinum surface hardening process
Window:  Dual-curved sapphire crystal at the front (with AR coating) with a see-through caseback
Diameter: 38.2 mm 
Height: 12.0 mm 
Length: 46.0 mm 
Lug Width: 19.0 mm
Weight: 72 gm
Water Resistant: 100 meters
Dial: Silver leaf lacquer dial with aquamarine blue paint
Movement: Calibre 9011, in-house automatic with central rotor
Jewel: 24
Frequency:  28,800 BPH
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Accuracy: -10/+20 seconds per day 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking) and quick-set date
Strap: 19.0 mm blue calf leather strap 
Buckle: Folding clasp with push-button release
Availability: Since 2022 but only in Japanese domestic market
MSRP: YEN126,500
Purchase Date: 12 July 2024
Purchase Price: YEN92,000
Vendor: Japan Master Collection, Tokyo Haneda International Airport
Serial Number: 422380094
Guarantee: Worldwide for 2 years (with the My Citizen registration)


 Photo Gallery

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THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

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