Sunday, October 1, 2023

Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Green Dial 'Seaweed' Ref.: 210.30.42.20.10.001 - An Elegant Timepiece that Belies its Tool Watch Functionality, A Revew (plus Video)

After many years of wishing, I finally gotten myself a Seamaster Professional 300M diver. I have been eyeing this model for years. When Omega launched the Seaweed version i.e. the green dial model, I was committed to get one.

Why the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M diver (will now refer it to just Seamaster Professional 300)? Despite being a model that first came to light in 1993, the design is evergreen and looks modern even today. Although changes were made throughout the life of the series, the shape and the more importantly, its dimensions remain the same. The last part is key as the size of the Seamaster Professional 300 sits in a zone that has been universally accepted as perfect for most wrist sizes. It is practical, not flashy and comfortable to wear.
 
The Omega brand is not new to me. Click on this link to know more about the Omega models in the collection. At this moment, the majority of the Omega  watches in the collection are sport watches.

The Series

There are multiples models under this series. The most famous are the 42.0 mm divers with 3-hands and a date function. There are five major colourways: black, blue, white, green and 'others'. The first three are often seen as they have been part of the offering for years. The green is new, as it was only offered since 2022. As for the colours under 'others', these are generally unique special edition or limited edition offering by Omega due to partnership with other organizations or events. Below are just four of the key models on offer.


These steel casing with steel bracelet models are currently retailing with a MSRP of RM24,700. If the pairing is with rubber, the MSRP is RM23,300. Below is the green dial model with green rubber strap.


The Seamaster has a rich history. Its genesis was in 1948 when it debuted in celebration of Omega’s 100th anniversary. The Seamaster was modeled after the waterproof wristwatches made for the British military during World War II. What distinguished the Seamaster from its diving watch predecessors was its O-ring gasket which improved its water-resistance. Below is a photo of the original Seamaster.

Source: https://www.truefacet.com/guide/history-omega-seamaster/

In 1957, the second generation of Seamaster was born. The Seamaster 300 was designed for underwater use. Do note that the Seamaster 300 could only dive to depths of 200 meters. Below is a photo of the Seamaster 300.

Source: https://www.truefacet.com/guide/history-omega-seamaster/

The third and current generation of Seamaster, the Seamaster Professional 300 was shown to the public in 1993. Omega hit the jackpot with a sly marketing strategy of tying the watch with the James Bond genre when in 1995, Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond wore an Omega Quartz Seamaster Professional 300 in the film Golden Eye. This catapult the watch to iconic status. 

With such a rich history and purposeful design, it’s easy to see why the Omega Seamaster is loved and holds its position as the oldest model in the brand’s current collection.

The Watch

When I saw the green version of the watch in person for the first time at the Omega Boutique, there are two models to looked at; the bracelet version and the rubber strap version. Visually, the rubber strap version is more elegant, thinner and the tapering accentuate the watch beautifully. It is also cheaper. The bracelet version looks bulkier and reduces the focus to the watch face somewhat due to the bright nature of the bracelet surfaces. 
 

 
In the end, I chose the bracelet version as it would be cheaper to switch from bracelet to strap instead of the other way around. In all honesty, despite my glowing view on the rubber strap version, the green on the rubber is too eye-catching. Black would be a better option in my opinion. 

The Seamaster Professional 300 is a tool made for professionals despite it being a luxury watch. The  stainless steel case with a 42.0 mm width may seem wide for some but more importantly, the lug-to-lug length of 48.5 mm is just the right length to support the watch on most wrists without excessive lug overhang. The thickness of 13.7 mm is also reasonable considering the water resistance of the watch. When coupled with the bracelet, the whole watch weighs in at a noticeable 198 gm. Some may find this weight to be on the higher side. I believe this is quite reasonable especially for a professional dive watch.
 

 
The dial is laser-etched ceramic, similar to the bezel insert. Using muted green as the base colour, Omega's choice appeals to those that wants colour but not that obvious. The shade is almost forest green and in some light it almost comes across as black. The ceramic dial is laser-cut to form a wave pattern and has a shiny gloss finish. There is so much depth to this dial, with its wavy laser-cut channels and applied indices. The edge of the dial ends at a straight walled polished chapter ring.

Like the other models under the series, there are eight rows of texts and logo, where half are located at the upper quadrant and the other half on the lower quadrant. Unlike the other models, Omega decided against using red for the word "Seamaster", opting to use white instead. Some reviewers suggested by not using red, it makes that watch looks more mature. Personally, I believe it is to minimize any obvious visual cues that can run contrary to the green.
 
There are two timing scales on the dial. At the edge is the minute line scale in white and the tall applied hour markers with SuperLuminova paint in various shapes of circles and rectangles.
 
The hours and minutes hands are skeletonized with luminescent (SuperLuminova) lines framing the metal and a spot of luminous material situated within the tip of each hand (circular for the hours and seconds hands; triangle for the minutes hand). The seconds hand has a stick shape, with a lollipop-style tip also coated in SuperLuminova. 
 
What I appreciate about the Seamaster Professional design is the positioning of the date complication at 6:00. I am a sucker for symmetry and this position is perfect for a date aperture. Moreover, I am also pleased to note that Omega only partially replaced the hour marker at 6:00. Although a smaller hour marker than the rest, at least in the dark, there will still be some illumination at that position. 
 

 
Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides. The same material is also used for the window to view the movement on the case-back. The ability of viewing the movement from the display case-back is one of best redesign of the Seamaster in recent times.
 
The dive watch has a unidirectional rotating bezel. Made out of the same material as the casing. Nevertheless, the bezel inserts are ceramic, the same material as the dial. Instead of painting the scale on the bezel with white paint or luminous paint, Omega used enamel for the scale. As required for a certified dive watch, a luminous pip at 12:00 is also provided.

As shown in the photo above, the crown, located at 3:00 is signed with the Omega logo. When the crown is screwed-down, the crown is partially covered by protective shoulders extending out from the casing. Meanwhile, at 10:00 is the screw-down manual helium escape valve. Unlike the crown, there is no protective shoulders protecting this valve. The valve is also signed with the scientific symbol of helium ('He').

 
Note that the crown and the valve are of different designs. The crown is tabular with serrated edge whereas the valve is cone-like with a serrated edge.  

The technology to make a HEV-less watch especially one that is rated at 300 meters has been available to the market for decades. The Japanese have even made one that is rated to 600 meters in 1975 when they launched their first Tuna, the reference 6159-7010. Even recently, Omega launched the Ultra Deep that could go down to 6,000 meters without needing a HEV. As such, there has been calls for Omega to redesign the Seamaster to exclude the HEV. I personally am against this idea as the HEV is the quintessential design feature that defines an Omega Seamaster. Eliminating the HEV would kill the spirit of a Seamaster.

 
A major revision on the current models of the Seamaster is the introduction of the display case-back. This has been one of the wishes that a lot of fans wanted from Omega. Having the ability to view the Calibre 8800 (or any other movements) pleased a bunch of people (me included). Th display case-back is made out of sapphire crystal. Despite the new design feature, the casing retains the 300 meter water rating.
 
The 8800 has a Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer METAS certification, magnetic resistance, a silicon balance spring and a rhodium finish. The 26 mm diameter movement was developed by George Daniels (he was an English horologist considered by some to be one of the best in the world in the field of luxury mechanical watches and timepieces during his lifetime). The 35 jewels caliber beats at a frequency of 25,200 BPH and offers a 55-hour power reserve when fully wound. The movement proves itself with its features in terms of durability, longevity, usefulness, wide service intervals and high accuracy.
 

 
The lugs are 20.0 mm width. The model I got comes with stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet has the combination of polished and brushed surfaces. Unfortunately, the bracelet is a scratch and handprint magnet. I would like it if Omega redesigned the bracelet to help minimise the risk of scratching as well as incorporating a gradual tempering from the lugs to the clasp. Hopefully Omega reads this!
 
 The bracelet is a new design, as well and the clasp features a push-button six-position micro adjust with 2.3 mm of incremental extension to a maximum of 9.6 mm. On the bottom of the 'PUSH' button seen above is the diver's extension which add an additional 23.4 mm of length to the bracelet. Moreover, with the micro-adjustment feature in the clasp, you can make instant adjustments. As shown in the photo below, apart from the micro-adjustment feature, there is also a divers' extension. With the removable full and half links on the stainless steel bracelet, the watch fits every wrist perfectly.
 

 
Due to the multiple features included in the clasp, note its size relative to the bracelet. Nicely signed with the Omega brand and symbol. Unfortunately, the huge surface area is a scratch magnet. If you paranoid about scratches, best to replace the bracelet with a strap.


Below is the view of the illumination on the watch.



The Wearing Experience

Of all the diver watches under Omega, this is the most wearable under most scenarios. It is also the most iconic. The scalloped bezel and the prominent manual HEV valve are recognizable visual identifiers to the model.
 
 

Above is the watch on my 6.75 inch circumference wrist. It is well balanced and sits properly on the wrist without any discernible lug overhang. 

Long story short, the Seamaster is in a class of the best dive watches in the world, thanks to the features it offers, its price range and more importantly, its availability through authorized dealers (unlike the Rolex Submariner 😡). Moreover, the Seamaster is an elegant timepiece that belies its tool watch functionality. 
 

The Purchasing Experience

The dealer at the Omega Boutique wanted to give a gift for the purchase but it was the same one given when I got my Ultra Deep. So they told me that they will give me something different when it comes.

The watch-box for the Seamaster Professional 300 is similar to the Ultra Deep. Solid wooden box but without the small red travelling box. Instead, a leather pouch was given.


Specifications

Model: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M
Reference: 210.30.42.20.10.001
Case Material: Stainless steel
Band Material: Bracelet, stainless steel
Other Material; Ceramic for the bezel inserts and the dial; Enamel for the scale on the bezel
Clasp Type: Fold-over with comfort setting and diver extension
Window: Domed sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides
Dial Colour: Green
Lug Width: 20.0 mm
Case Diameter: 42.0 mm
Lug-to-Lug Length: 48.5 mm
Thickness: 13.6 mm
Weight: Approximately 198 gm 
Movement: Calibre Omega 8800 
Technology: Self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement
Jewels: 35
Anti-Magnetic: Resistance up to 15,000 Gauss
Frequency: 3.5 Hertz or 25,200 BPH
Power Reserve: Up to 55 hours 
Complications: Date; Manual helium escape valve; Unidirectional rotating bezel 
Additional Features: Anti‑magnetic; Chronometer; Master Chronometer Certified
Water Rating: 30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet)
Vendor: Omega Boutique, Gardens Mall
Purchase Date: 22 February 2023
MSRP: RM24,700
Serial Number: 84254558
Warranty: 5 years 


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