Monday, April 1, 2019

Seiko Premier Sunburst SRP311K1 Black PVD Monster, Second Generation (similar to SRP307, SRP309, SRP313, SRP315, SRP319, SRP455, SRP457, SRP459, SRP581, SRP583 & SRP657) - Evergreen Icon, A Review (plus Video)

When the first generation Seiko Monsters (GEN1 Monster) first came out back in 2000, I wan't into the watch collecting craze yet. When I went headlong into the hobby from 2010 onwards, I decided to get myself a GEN1 Monster in the form of the SKX779K1. Really enjoyed the over-engineered design and its toughness relative to its asking price - real value for money!

When the second generation Seiko Monsters (GEN2 Monster) came out in 2012, I was rather lukewarm over the new series. In all, 11 different models were offered with some limited edition models set at a very high price. Many felt that Seiko was milking the Monster genre too much and the slew of offerings literally overwhelmed the fans. I didn't get one for the collection as I felt the line was crashing with too many new examples suffocating the Monster sub-line.

In late 2018, Seiko launched the third generation Seiko Monsters (GEN3 Monster) and this got me re-evaluating my earlier assumptions about this sub-line. The love for the Monster series was too overwhelming to be snuffed out by the over-exuberance of the GEN2 Monster releases. Therefore, after seven years since the release date of the GEN2 Monster, I start to source for one.


At the start, I was very surprised to find that it was difficult to source any of the models from local ADs. Even via Amazon, the prices quoted for some of the available models were exorbitant. Seiko not having produce the models anymore was a valid reason for the unavailability but then again, you should be able to source at least one especially for a series that was made in the multiple of thousands. After a week of anxious searching, I finally found one model the SRP311K1. Honestly, if given the choice, this is not what I would be pick but as part of the Monster story for the collection, it would have to do.

The SRP311K1 has the same shape as its predecessor SKX779K1. Made out of stainless steel, the watch is 43.0 mm wide (excluding the crown) with a lug-to-lug length of 47.5 mm. Lug width is 20.0 mm and the height of the watch is 13.0 mm. The whole surface of the casing and bracelet is PVD coated in black. With all links present, the watch weighs in at 182 gm.

Seiko designated this watch under their Premier line of watches. Today, if you look at Seiko's website, the Premier line is defined as, "The Premier collection offers refined elegance in dress watches for both men and women. Classic and modern design themes combine in harmony with Seiko’s innovative technology to create a series of timepieces that are as stunning as they are subtle". I guess back in 2012, clarity in function and classification conventions were still a work in progress. The SRPC311K1 is a tool watch and categorising it as a 'Premier' was stretching it a bit.

The legions of diehard Seiko fans or Seikonistas have given a couple of informal nicknames to this watch. The Sunburst, the Fang as well as the Sharptooth are three common nicknames for the SRPC311K1. I personally feel the nickname Sunburst is more apt as it truly reflects the paint job for the dial. The terms Sharptooth and Fang are more generic in nature and can be used for the rest of the series on the count of the shape of the hour markers. For this review, I would just stick to the designated reference number.

Structurally, the GEN2 Monster SRP311K1 is very similar to the GEN1 Monster SKX779K1 albeit for a few minor points. As I go through describing the watch in detail, I will highlight the differences.

The Dial



The chapter ring is shaped out of a curve wall. Painted black, line minute markers surrounds it  (bold for every 5th minute and normal for the rest). The design of the peripheral minute markers is similar to the GEN1 Monsters. The applied main hour markers is next. The various nicknames given to the watch are generally in reference to the hour markers. Shaped like a shark tooth, framed with polished steel and lavishly covered with LumiBrite luminous paint, this change from the standard rectangular hour markers on the GEN1 Monsters changes the vibes of the GEN2 into something more aggressive and menacing. Coupled with the sunburst orange in the center of the dial, the persona of mystery pervades.

Two of the hours markers are different. The 12 o'clock hour marker is larger with a frame line in the center while the 3 o'clock marker has been replaced by the day and date aperture. Similar to the GEN1, the large rectangular aperture with rounded corners has been cut from the dial and framed with white paint. The date and day wheels use negative print styling with the alphanumeric characters in white over a black background. This helps maintain some cohesiveness with the rest of the dial. Since this watch is an international model (with suffix "K1"), the two language options on the day wheel are English and Roman numerals.

The texts on the dial is similar to the GEN1. The three lines of texts are printed in white and apart from the brand, it basically states the type of movement used and the purpose of the watch.

The hands on the watch are also similar to the GEN1 apart from the color combination. The hours hand is short and looks like a pointed spade. The minutes hand is long and thick while the seconds hand is thin with a small reference triangle in the middle of it. An interesting moment is when the hour and minute hands line up together on the dial to resemble a rocket ship. Painted in base color black, the hands are generously painted with the ultra sensitive LumiBrite. For the seconds hand, the upper half of the hand is painted with base orange.

The Casing



Protecting the dial is a dome Hardlex crystal similar to the GEN1. Instead of having the sides of the Hardlex crystal flush with the bezel's inner wall, the crystal has a slight bevel to its edge which creates an opaque band for an interesting visual point of focus on the watch.

The scalloped bezel design and case combination is unique and similar to the GEN1. This has been the design factor that made the Monster series an immediate icon. The bold and bulky bezel design with the circular dips and serrated tooth makes for a tough yet handsome shape with tool-like practicality. The deep cut top surfaces for the various timing markers and numerals has been filled with orange paint with the customary luminous diver's pip in the center of the 12 o'clock marker. The bezel is unidirectional and rotates with a solid 'click'. It moves in 120 increments for a full circle.



The screw-in crown is located at 4 o'clock. The crown is sterile without any markings apart from the crisscross checkering on the side for grip. It is easy to handle and well protected by the protruding part of the watch casing when screwed down. Unfortunately, it is not as smooth when screwing in as compared to Swiss brands.

Seiko is able to create interesting combinations when it comes to bezel and case. As shown in the image below, the dimples cut into the watch casing that align with the dimples on the bezel makes it very lively. The addition of the lip above the two sides of the lugs looks like the blossoming adolescent shroud that could one day bloom into a 'Tuna' shroud. If you are a Seikonista, these teasers or 'Easter eggs' will please you immensely.



The lugs and bracelet are of the same design as the GEN1.

The lugs have pass-through holes for easy access to the lug bars and hence quick bracelet or strap replacement. The lugs are also short and curved downwards thus making the watch comfortable to wear even for those with slender wrist.

The watch is paired with a 20 mm diver's bracelet that flairs out immediately to 22 mm near the lugs and gently tapers down back to 20 mm at the clasp. The links have the traditional "H" styling and connected together using a pin-and-sleeve system. There are no half-links but the clasp does provide four micro-adjustment points for better resizing.

The clasp is a typical fold-over with button release and safety latch by Seiko with a diver extension system attached at one end of it. The diver's extension mechanism gives an additional 25 mm of length to the bracelet.



The black PVD does not extent throughout the bracelet. The bridge between the two halves of the bracelet remain bright polished stainless steel. Having seen how Seiko designs a PVD timepiece, I must point out how hideous it looks when some parts of the watch does not get the same PVD treatment. Thew SRP311K1 is a prime example. I do hope Seiko take note of this feedback and eliminate this problem in their next PVD project.



The screw-down solid case-back is not PVD but with a polish surface. It has the famous Tsunami logo in the middle. Underneath, is the Caliber 4R36 automatic movement with hand-winding and seconds hand stop mechanism. This is a major improvement over the GEN1. The 4R36 beats at 21,600 BPH and has 24 jewels which enables it to have 41 hours of power reserve.

I was able to do an accuracy test straight out of the box using the Toolwatch app on the Apple App Store and the result was astounding. The 4R36 movement was able to produce an accuracy of +9.9 seconds per day (SpD), well within the manufacturer's stated limits of +45 SpD and -35 SpD.

The night image of the watch is as breathtaking as the GEN1 when it first came out. It's bright and the illumination last the whole night (at least 6 hours).



The PVD Treatment

Before I end the physical review of the watch, I would like to touch upon the PVD treatment that was done on all the major surfaces of the SRP311K1. It does provide a beautiful surface but it doesn't provided additional surface protection from scratches unfortunately. This beautification process defeats the notion that this SRP311K1 is a tough watch. Instead, it is adorn to bling. This is similar to  the hobby of car customisation. If you prefer fashion, this model is for you but if you want a real 'Monster' that you can go down and dirty with, get the non-PVD version.


The Wearing Experience

As a tool watch, the Monster sits in the 'Goldilocks Zone'. It is not too big nor is it too small. For many people, the size is just perfect and the price asked by Seiko is fair when compared to the overall perceived value most people get from the series. Specific examples are deemed to generate better perceived value but with many examples to choose from, individuals are spoil for choice which example they value more.

On my wrist, the watch looks natural and snugly. The combination of black and orange is actually a good mix. Rather handsome, if I do say so myself.



Without a doubt, Seiko hit a home run with the Monster design. The evergreen nature of the design makes it relevant today as it was when the GEN1 was launched back in the year 2000. Even 12 years later, when the GEN2 came out in 2012, the styling still looks relevant and modern. I got my GEN2 in 2019 and the design still does not look dated at all.




The Second Generation Monster Series

The GEN2 Monsters can be segregated into two sets, the normal production models (6 designs) and the limited edition models (6 designs). These models started to come out from 2012 onward.

The normal production models are:

SRP307 (Black Monster)
SRP309 (Orange Monster)
SRP311 (Black Orange Monster/Sunburst)
SRP313 (Black Red Monster/Dracula)
SRP315 (Orange Black Monster/Sawtooth)
SRP583 (Black Ion Monster)
The limited edition models are:

SRP319 (Zamba Monster - 2112 units)
SRP455 (Super Blue Monster - limited units)
SRP457 (Moon Monster - 1313 units)
SRP459 (Sun Monster - 2323 units)
SRP581 (Sea Monster - limited units)
SRP657 (Royal Blue Monster - 1000 units)
There are a number of nicknames given to the various models by Seiko enthusiasts. Some I have added for information but by no means these are official nicknames. Some models have more than one nickname.


The Purchase

I searched high and low for a GEN2 for a few weeks. Instead of going to my favourite AD, I've decided to hunt in smaller shops as I assumed they would have something old still in stock. How wrong I was on that count. Every shop was 'out of stock'. I was resigned to the fact that I would not be able to source for one (there are examples available on Amazon but the asking price of more than USD400 was too much for the budget).

Lo and behold, my AD does have one last piece in stock. Although not the model that I would choose if given options, beggars can't be choosers. Paid RM1,033.00 for it.

Specifications

BRAND: Seiko
SERIES: Premier
MODEL: SRP311K1
MOVEMENT: Automatic, Seiko Caliber 4R36 with 24 jewels
POWER RESERVE: 41 hours
CASE SIZE: 43 mm (without Crown); 47 mm (with Crown)
CASE LENGTH: 47.5 mm
CASE THICKNESS: 13 mm
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel
CASE COLOR: PVD black
CASE BACK: Solid screw-down
BAND TYPE: Bracelet
BAND COLOR: PVD black
BAND WIDTH: 22 mm and tapering to 20 mm at the clasp
LUG WIDTH: 20 mm
CLASP: Fold Over with Button Release and safety latch plus diver extension system
WATER RESISTANCE: 200 meters
FUNCTIONS: Date; Day; Hours, Minutes, Seconds Hands; Diver's Timer
DIAL COLOR: Sunburst orange over black
CRYSTAL Scratch Resistant Hardlex
LUMINESCENCE: LumiBrite on Hours & Minutes Hands, Diver's Pip and Hour Markers
BEZEL: Black PVD Uni-directional
CROWN: Screw-down
WEIGHT: 182 gm
MSRP: RM1,480.00, USD695.00


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