I finally able to complete the mechanical set of The 1968 Mechanical Divers 50th Anniversary Commemorative Collection by Seiko.This year, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 1968 hi-beat diver model 6159-7001, the first diver’s watch with a hi-beat automatic calibre, Seiko introduced three modern divers that pay homage to this icon. Up to this point I was able to collect the first and third in the series; the limited edition Prospex Diver 300m Hi-Beat SLA025 (or SBEX007) with calibre 8L55 and the Prospex Diver 200m SPB077 (or SBDC061) with calibre 6R15. Today, I finally snared the second of the series, the limited edition Prospex Diver 300m 'Marinemaster' SLA019 (or SBDX021) Deep Forest with calibre 8L35. This watch is officially known as 'The 1968 Automatic Diver's Commemorative Limited Edition'.
Originally I wasn't looking at getting the SLA019 for the collection. My view then was that it was too similar to the SBDX001 300m Marinemaster which is already a member of the collection. However, after having laid my eyes on an actual piece recently, I was taken by beauty of the dial colour and the use of zirconia ceramic for the bezel. Couple with the sapphire crystal to protect the dial, this combination is something that I have been searching for a long time in a Seiko professional dive watch. Unfortunately, this realisation only came to me in November 2018 when examples of this limited edition timepiece were already shipped to distributors in August 2018! The likelihood of getting one appears thin as rave reviews about the watch have already flooded the internet since it was presented to the public back in Baselworld 2018 which was held in March 2018.
Fortuitously, one of my longtime dealer was able to source one for me in Mid Valley Megamall. The MSRP in Kuala Lumpur was RM15,600 but I was able to get for RM13,260.
The SLA019 has been given the nickname “Deep Forest” by Seiko itself. The term was chosen as the shade of green used on the dial and bezel was inspired from the forests of Yakushima Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Situated in the Kagoshima Prefecture in the south of Japan, it is paradise for naturalists. The island is home to some of Japan’s oldest cedar trees while the sea around it is known for its extraordinary ecosystem made up of migratory schools of fish and colourful sea life. Below is the promotional photo of the watch and the Yakushima forest.
The SLA019 is made out of stainless steel and weighs in at 222 grams (with the bracelet). A monocoque construction with only one entry point from the front (similar the the SLA025 and SBEX001). It has a diameter of 44.3 mm across excluding the crown. Its lug-to-lug size is 50.5 mm and it has a thickness of 15.4 mm. The watch is coated in scratch-proof DiaShield surface protection element. The dive bezel is made of green Zirconia and the dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal. Apart from the stainless steel bracelet, a spare silicone strap is also provided in the package.
Historical Context
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| Seiko 6159-7001 |
The SLA019 is the latest interpretation of the Seiko 6159-7001. Comparatively, the shape of the SLA019 is more in-tuned to the SBDX001, the first of the Marinemaster 300. At the turn of the new century, in the year 2000, Seiko introduced SBDX001 as part of its Prospex line. The SBDX001 was in fact a re-craft of its first 300-meter diver. Soon, the almost identical SBDX003, limited to 500 pieces, was launched as part of the historical collection. This limited edition model reintroduced the golden indexes and hands of the 1967 model.
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Due to Seiko's marketing strategy, the SBDX001 was a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) only timepiece and sold only in Japan. This exclusivity created a cult following so strong that in 2013, Seiko started to internationalize the range.
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In 2015, Seiko presented a 1,000-piece limited edition SBDX012 with golden accents on the dial and bezel to celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary as a manufacturer of dive watches. This model is visually similar to the SBDX001 but has been tweaked somewhat. The casing has been give a DiaShield protection, a Prospex logo on the crown and a new Lumibrite compound 50% brighter and longer lasting than the previous formula. Concurrently, Seiko introduced the standard production SBDX017 (with most of the tweaks except for the the golden accents) as a replacement for the SBX001.
In 2016,Seiko launched a Europe-only, 200-piece limited edition, the SLA015, which introduced a different set of hands as well as a light blue dial.
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| SLA015 |
In 2018, Seiko has decided to usher in a new era with the limited edition SLA019. It became the first of the line to no longer carry the name “Marinemaster” on the dial. Subsequently, a set of production models to replace the SBDX017 was launched; the black dial SLA021/SBDX023 and the blue dial SLA023. These new models all have the latest updates put on the SLA019.
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Seiko is also planing to launch the limited edition Seiko Zimbe No.7 SLA027 (428 pieces only). Apart from the dial texture, note the different hands as well as an illuminated pip on the bezel.
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| Seiko Zimbe No.7 SLA027 |
Although fans will continue to nominate the series as the Marinemaster, Seiko has decided not to continue with the designation from now on. Currently, only the Professional Tunas (the SBDX, SBDB and SBBN series) have the designation printed on the dial. Despite this change in nomenclature by Seiko, I, a diehard fan, will still refer this series as a Marinemaster.
The Dial
The SLA019 has a two-stage chapter ring. The first section is a vertical wall which then transition to a sloping second stage with minute markings painted in white. Every 5th minute line markers are enhanced with bolder markings, distinguishing it from those nearby. The background colour on both stages are green.
If you have the opportunity to closely examine the dial, you will see a very subtle sun-ray motif on the surface, barely visible to the naked eye. This texture plays with the light spectacularly. When viewed at certain angles, the dial turns to near black while at other angles, the full brightness of the green presents itself.
Like the SLA025, the SLA019 has large applied indices around the perimeter of the dial and framed in polished steel. All markers are round except for the 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. The markers on the 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock are rectangular while the marker on the 12 o'clock is shaped like two wedges back-to-back. For the 3 o'clock position, Seiko replaced it with a date aperture. It is a bevelled cut-out with a printed outline, unlike the higher-end SLA025 with a bevelled metal insert. The date wheel has a white background which compensate the loss of the hour marker somewhat. Like all Marinemasters, a substantial amount of LumiBrite paint was used on the indices for a strong and lasting glow. I was made to understand the current Lumibrite formula used is 50% brighter than its predecessor.
Typical of Seiko's high-end professional watches, the dial is full of texts and logo; six rows of them. The brand was made from cut sheet metal and applied in the upper quadrant while the rest of the texts and logo can be found printed on the lower quadrant. Apart from the words and codes written, the PROSPEX logo was also added to the dial. All texts and logo were painted white except for the word "300m" which was painted in gold. Personally, I don't find the level of texts and logo to be excessive. Seiko was able to use the right font and sizing to not make it overwhelming.
A number of people have commented the missing "MARINEMASTER" text on the dial which was present for SBDX001 and SBDX017. This looks to be a common trend with the different “Master” series branding being removed and all models being unified under the Prospex branding.
The hour and minute hands are broadsword in shape. Made out of polished stainless steel, the front portion has been allocated for LumiBrite paint. Surprisingly, the seconds hand is crafted in gold paint and shaped like an arrow with a substantial arrowhead with pointer. The arrowhead is where the LumiBrite paint is put on. On a side note, generally, the use of gold paint to accentuate certain parts of the dial on a Seiko watch signifies the importance of the model and it usually an indication that is a limited edition timepiece.
The dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protection. Unlike the older 300 Marinemasters (the SBDX001 and the more recent SBDX017), instead of continuing using the Hardlex crystal, Seiko set sapphire crystal as standard after getting a lot of feedback from fans. Personally, I have nothing against Hardlex. In fact, I find Hardlex to be more cost effective. It is not as scratch-resistent as sapphire but it has much better shatter-proof capabilities. Moreover, it is so much cheaper than sapphire.
The Casing
The Seiko Prospex Diver 300m Marinemaster SLA019J1 Deep Forest is a bulky watch. Measuring 50.5 mm from lug-to-lug and with a case thickness of 15.4 mm, it takes someone with a relatively wide wrist to be able to carry the watch confidently. Tipping the scales at 222 grams, it is also weighty. All these largenesses are designed to exudes toughness and survivability.
A unidirectional divers’ bezel with 120-click increment for one complete rotational cycle sits on top of the case. The gear-tooth knurled edge of the bezel facilitate grip admirably. Turning the bezel has a precise feel to it and the tactile encounter shows the quality of design synonymous with the Seiko brand. The sound it makes, the series of clicks when turning the bezel is reassuring. On the bezel is the cedar-green zirconia ceramic insert with a combinations of minute dot markers, minute line markers and minute Arabic numerals. Similar to all dive watches, the the triangle at 12 o’clock is painted with a luminous material which in this case is LumiBrite. Seiko also took the liberty to treat the 5, 10, 15 and 20 minute markers on the bezel with Lumibrite in order to enhance the legibility further.
The large signed (with the Prospex symbol) screw-down crown is located at 4 o’clock. Due to the size of the watch, the location of the crown helps reduce the risk of pinching the wearer’s skin.
The SLA019 has a solid case-back. Access to the movement must go through the front of the watch. On the flat case-back, there is the famous Tsunami art in the centre. There are some interesting information about the watch stamped on the case-back. Seiko took the effort to indicate that the watch is a mixed-gas capable dive watch i.e. the SLA019 is capable to be used in technical diving situations. This is a term used to describe all diving methods that exceed the limits imposed on depth and/or immersion time for recreational scuba diving. Technical diving often involves the use of special gas mixtures (rather than compressed air) for breathing. While the recommended maximum depth for conventional scuba diving is 40 meters, technical divers may work in the range of 50 meters and beyond. It is also here that the special serial number is stamped on. In my case, it is 1732 out of 1,968 examples.
Underneath this case-back is the Seiko in-house 26 jewel Calibre 8L35 self-winding movement that is the base movement for the higher end 9S55 calibre Grand Seiko. With manual wind and hacking second mechanisms, it operates at 28,800 BPH or at a frequency of 4 hertz. It has a 50 hours power reserve and the movement is rhodium plated. Its has an accuracy rating by Seiko of +15 ~ -10 seconds per day. The movement is made out of 192 parts. Accuracy easily matches certified chronometer levels, and often exceeds them. Beyond its deep water capabilities, this watch also capable of withstanding an impressive magnetic resistance of 16,000 A/m.
I was made to understand that this is a newer version of the 8L35 (with suffix B). Some parts of the movement is made out of MEMS technology, which refers to tighter tolerance pieces that should allow for better timekeeping and less wear over time. Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems, or MEMS, is a technology that in its most general form can be defined as miniaturized mechanical and electro-mechanical elements (i.e., devices and structures) that are made using the techniques of microfabrication.
Although this is the same movement used in the SBDX001, the first modern 300m Marinemaster launched back in 2000, using the latest manufacturing technologies in the form of MEMS, the newer 8L35 performs better even though the design is dated.
The lugs are curved downwards to better wrap itself on a wrist. Having pass-through pinholes in the 20 mm wide lugs facilitate easier strap replacement. The lugs can be paired with either a bracelet or the silicone strap that are provided with the watch. For me, the bracelet is the better of the two as a good pairing for the watch casing.
The 3-rows stainless steel bracelet is beautifully built. The central row of satin-brushed links is framed with slender strips of polished metal. The sides of the bracelet are highly polished. The tasteful blend of different surface finishes reinforces the perception of quality. The links are attached together using the standard pin-and-collar system.
The bracelet features a three-fold clasp with push button release. An extendable section which incorporates a ratcheting mechanism facilitate wearing the SLA019 over a diving suit. Although the mechanism adds some bulk to the clasp, it is still manageable. Moreover, the clasp has an additional four micro-adjustment points for better sizing.
Below is the night shot of the watch with full illumination. Note the illumination provided for the first four 5-minute markers on the bezel (two line markers and two Arabic numerals).
The Wearing Experience
The watch is comfortable to wear. It exudes confidence and strength. Although slightly thick, it can be used with formal wear. Moreover, the emerald green dial and bezel is mesmerizing.
I don’t think there are reasons to doubt the underwater capabilities of the SLA019. Its construction provides divers with the necessary reassurance that the watch will perform under adverse conditions. However, most modern professional divers now prefer to carry diving computers for their work and not something mechanical like the SLA019. Diving computers can give much more critical information to divers than a mechanical timepiece. If they do carry the SLA019, it is perhaps as a back-up redundancy to the primary diving computer.
To be honest, I am not a diver. I would still use this watch because what it can do on land. Legibility, robustness and the ‘hype’ or ‘coolness’ all have relevance to non-professional wearers such as me. This Seiko does not require undue pampering. But its greatest attribute is the way Seikonistas look at it.
The SLA019 can be categorised as a ‘Veblen Goods’. These are types of luxury goods for which the quantity demanded increases as the price increases, an apparent contradiction of the law of demand, resulting in an upward-sloping demand curve. When Seiko priced at EUR3,200 for the European market and YEN320,000 for the Japanese market, I was taken aback. This is close to 100% more in price than the predecessor, the SBDX017. How could Seiko justify the price premium?
On further investigation, I found out that Seiko has, over the years, progressively positioned the Marinemasters as a luxury good. A higher price may actually make the product more desirable as a status symbol. Since the Marinemasters are already a legend on their own right, the sub-brand is ripe to be milked. Making it a limited edition increases the demand and status considerably.
As a collector, this is good to know but as a fan, the price escalation may be too much to swallow. Seiko could be heading in the same level as Rolex or Patek Philippe.
The Unboxing
The package came is a small rectangular black box with a cardboard sleeve. The Seiko as well as the Prospex brands (including logo) are printed on the main watch-box. By having a cutout window in the cardboard sleeve, Seiko only need to do the printing on the watch-box.
The box opens up completely to show the watch resting on a black pillow as well as a long shelve for placing the spare silicone strap. The manual booklet is placed on top of the watch. There is a small indentation at the bottom of the watch-box to place extra links or anything not wider than a credit card.
Final Thoughts
When I was contemplating to get the watch, one thing bothered me immensely; the price. When I got the SBDX001 back on 7 December 2012, it costs me YEN180,000 or RM7,335. For the SLA019 (even after taking into consideration the expected 'premium' for a limited edition piece), the price of RM13,260 is rather steep. The extra things you get are the sapphire crystal, a new Lumibrite compound, the Diashield surface protection coating and the ceramic bezel. The key question; is it worth the premium paid?
I have to say the brand reputation in terms of specification and quality of manufacturing is undeniable. For a sports watch, the SLA019 fits the bill perfectly. However, I must agree that the price point is too high. Perhaps using titanium instead of stainless steel would be a better justification for the steep premium.
So why did I get the watch? Well, from a collector's point of view, the SLA019 is a keeper as the brand has reached a level reserve only for the most premier watch brands in the world. The limited production run as well as the emerald green dial and bezel makes it desirable as a collectable.
Beauty is priceless.....
Specifications
- Designation: The 1968 Mechanical Divers 50th Anniversary Limited Edition “Deep Forest”
- Reference: SBDX021 (JDM)/SLA019J1 (rest of the world)
- Caliber 8L35
- Driving system: Automatic
- Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
- Power reserve: 50 hours
- Number of jewels: 26
- Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating - DiaShield
- Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on inner surface
- Zirconia ceramic bezel
- Screw-down crown
- Bracelet: Reference S03P001H0
- Water resistance: 300 m saturation
- Magnetic resistance: 16,000 A/m
- Diameter: 44.3 mm
- Thickness: 15.4 mm
- Lugs: 20 mm
- Length: 50.5 mm
- Weight: 222 gm
- Straps: (a) Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release,
secure lock and slide adjuster (b) Silicone strap as additional option - Limited Edition: 1,968 examples
- MSRP: EUR3,200; GBP2,900; YEN320,000; AUD5,300; RM15,600
Seiko 8l35 Automatic Divers... by on Scribd
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Thank you for sharing this blog! Such a nice collection of watches but last month I was brought classy men's watches for my small brother at “J.Ciro Designs” an online store. This store providing very cheap and affordable price watches to everyone for various categories.
ReplyDeleteI asked city chain and seiko boutique in mid valley about this model but they said non available due to limited edition. U are one lucky fella. But i managed to squeeze to rm11280 with 25% discount for the model SLA021 from City Chain.
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