Marathon in Collaboration with Gnomon Watches Limited Edition Pilot Navigator Stainless Steel Vintage Automatic with Ballistic Nylon Reference WW194029SS - A watch that not only looks great but also feels great to wear, A Review (plus Video)

I have a number of Marathon's watch models in the collection. Currently, I got the GSOR (Government Search and Rescue) Dive watch, the GPM (General Purpose Mechanical) Field watch and the OFM (Officer Field Mechanical) Field watch. I have been eyeing the Navigator series for quite some time but the design then came only with a quart movement. The asymmetrical casing is a design feature that I love about the Navigator. 

Recently, after visiting the Gnomon Watches website, I noticed that new collaboration between Marathon and Gnomon Watches for the Navigator is available for sale. What got me excited is the introduction of an automatic movement. I quickly made my order and since this is limited edition timepiece, I was also able to dictate the serial number that I wanted. It so happened that my 55th birthday has just passed and I though of getting the number to commemorate that event. 

This collaborative piece is slightly different than the standard Marathon design. The lack of a date aperture as well as the elimination of the tritium tube are the two key differences unique to this new model. More about this later.

Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black Reference GL0311 (similar to GL0309, GL0310, GL0312, GL0313, GL0314 & GL0315) - A Touch of Nostalgia and Coolness, A Review (plus Video)

This is the second Glycine example in the collection. The first was the Glycine Combat 6 Vintage GL0122 which I got in May 2019. That particular Glycine is from the Combat range. The second Glycine is also a vintage inspired design. The historic Glycine SST collection is one of the most coveted vintage timepieces by the brand and Glycine has decided to relaunch it with some modern improvements. This particular timepiece is from the Airman range.

 

The Glycine SST GMT series was officially launched in 2021. It was listed on Gnomon Watches Singapore then but I did not get it as there were other priorities and the price was rather on the high side. It was only during the Christmas season of 2023 that Gnomon Watches Singapore had a special seasonal discount that it became feasible acquisition for me.

With an offering of a 17.1% discount from MSRP, I quickly put in an order. The model I got is the Glycine Airman SST 43 GMT Automatic Black GL0311. Typical of Gnomon Watches Singapore packaging service, I received the package four days later.

Steinhart Architect Green - My Favorite Design, A Review (plus Video)

The Steinhart Architect Series is the first integrated sports model design released by Steinhart in 2023. It is a homage to the Gerald Genta integrated sports model design of the seventies that has become iconic and evergreen. 

In recent years, I have started to be more interested in formal watches instead of the typical diver or sports watches. The style of formal watches I like is the integrated bracelet design. Currently, I have five such models in the collection. They are The Citizen Series 8 GMT, Yema Wristmaster Traveller, IWC Ingenieur IW3236, Tissot PRX and Tissot PRX Chronograph.

 

When I recently saw the model featured on Gnomon Watches Singapore's website, I got the urge to get one. Luck would have it, Gnomon Watches Singapore had a year-end sale promotion which made the deal more affordable.

 

To be honest, I didn't expect Steinhart to create something formal and looked so similar to one of Gerald Genta's iconic design. The brand has a lot of homages but mostly sports or dive watches. I do tip my hat to Steinhart as this is an area that many people are interested in. 

There are three dial colours to choose from and I decided on the green as it is my favorite colour.

Marathon Officer’s Field Watch Mechanical (OFM)/Stainless Steel General Purpose Mechanical (GPM-SS) NGM Reissue Mechanical Ref. WW194003SS-NGM - A Very Flexible Watch, A Review (plus Video)

This will be my third Marathon watch. Although the watches of Marathon are designed as utilitarian time pieces able to withstand abuse, they are not as easily available when compared to the widespread interest in these kind of watches. Hence, the price for a Marathon watch has a (perceived) high premium attached.

Although Marathon has a number of models on offer, there are three designs I like. The GSAR, the GPM and the OFM. I already have the first two and now I complete the pack with acquisition of the OFM/GPM-SS.

The OFM was always available on Gnomon Singapore website even at the time when I got the GSAR and GPM. I took my time to acquire the watch as I was focused on acquiring others first. 

It so happened that I got a discount coupon that allowed me to finally get the watch below MSRP on Gnomon. I immediately logged into the website and made my booking. It didn't take long before the watch was on my desk.

 

Damasko DS30 - Excellent Legibility and Blends Naturally Without Excessive Wrist Presence, A Review (plus Video)

German watch brands have always intrigued me. The likes of Sinn, MeisterSinger and others have some design features that I find interesting and useful. Damasko is no exception.

I was first introduced to the brand many years ago. The unique Damasko’s proprietary ice-hardened steel compound used for its watches impressed me immensely. Nevertheless, I never got down to search to get one for the collection. To be honest, the pricing was too rich for my budget. Recently, I noticed that a low-entry level DS30 was available that fit my budget. Moreover, a special Christmas sale pricing made the offering hard to pass. 

The Brand

As this will be the first watch under the Damasko brand to join the collection, I will introduce the brand in detail. 

 

Damasko was established in Germany in 1994 by Mr. Konrad Damasko. The brand's unique value preposition was several. The first was the creation of a proprietary ice-hardened stainless steel case. The second was a patented free oscillating balance wheel coupled with a poly-crystalline silicon spring. These materials are insensitive to magnetic fields and resistant to any damage caused by pressure and temperature changes. More importantly, the timepieces are extremely accurate too. 

 

Yema Wristmaster Traveller - Awesome Beater Watch With Classic Look, A Review (plus Video)

I love integrated bracelet designed watches. I have the
IWC Ingenieur IW3236, Deep Blue Pro Seadiver, Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph, Tissot PRX Powermatic 80, Hamilton American Classic PSR, just to name a few. When I first saw the Yema Wristmaster Traveller, it immediately appealed to me.

The vintage aspect of the design is also visually pleasing to me. The octagonal shaped casing is seldom seen and gives that 'uniqueness' to the watch.

This watch was launched as a Kickstarter campaign in November 2021. I should have participated but instead I waited to see how well the campaign went. I was very impressed that interest from the public was overwhelming and all the units offered were taken. I had to wait for another year before the watch was available again.

As I have owned a Yema before (click here to see the review) I am quite comfortable to the quality of the watch even though I have yet to see one in person.

Gnomon of Singapore carried the brand and when it was available on the site, I didn't hesitate and immediately put in an order.

 

YEMA Digidisc Black YDGD2020-AM (similar to Yema Digidisc Brown YDGD2020-UM) - The Bracelet is a Disappointment, A Review (plus Video)

Today I would like to introduce the second watch brand from France into the collection (the first was Bell & Ross). YEMA is a French brand established in 1948 in Besançon, in the Doubs, the cradle of French watchmaking. The model in question is the Digidisc Black, a 1970s throwback design.

The period between this purchase and the last is about three months. This has been a longest time I have not indulged in getting a watch for the collection. I suppose the current Covid-19 health pandemic has taken a toll on my hobby. Nonetheless, I opened 2021 with a purchase of an interesting design that represent a time when 'groovy' was a thing.

Futurism was chic during the 1970s. The space race and the rapid advancement of technology in everyday life made it 'cool' to be futuristic. Art and design embraced the modernity wholeheartedly and watch styling was no exception.    

The YEMA Digidisc Black YDGD2020-AM has a time display using discs that rotate instead of moving hands like most contemporary watches. This styling is just so 1970s.  

Marathon GPM Government Black Mechanical Reference WW194003BK, Rough & Tough, A Review (plus Video)

Prior to the Covid-19 lock-down in Kuala Lumpur, I got myself a well-known military watch from a famous Canadian brand, Marathon. The Marathon GSAR Government Diver Automatic WW194006 was purchased from Gnomon Watches of Singapore back in March 2020 (The link to that watch can be found here). That watch is a famous dive watch by Marathon. 

Another iconic design by Marathon is the GPM or General Purpose Mechanical model, a field watch. I decided to get one also and I chose the reference WW194003BK for the collection. This watch is a subject of this review.

This field watch is issued to entitled military personnel especially those serving with ground forces. A no-frill timepiece, the watch provide the two basic tenets of is specifications - accuracy and simplicity. The specifications is based on the US Government Standard MIL-W-46374 specifications which states that a timepiece fulfilling this standard must need to have: 15 jewels (or more) mechanical movement; at least 36 hours of power reserve; has a hacking mechanism; shock resistance; water resistance of at least 30 meters or more; have nylon straps; and have luminous hands and markers that have to glow for 8 hours or more in total darkness. There are other requirements but the one listed above are the primary ones under the standard.

Marathon GSAR Government Diver Automatic - Rubber Reference WW194006 - A Lot to like and Very Little to Fault, A Review (plus Video)

When I first started my deep-dive into the world of watch collecting, the Marathon Watch Company was one of the first few brands on my radar screen more than a decade ago.

The genre that started the interest in this hobby was the diver and military styles watches. As such, Marathon's Government-issued Search And Rescue (GSAR) Diver’s Automatic watches are some of the most practical mechanical tool watches around. These watches are akin to the PROSPEX line by Seiko. Unfortunately, there wasn't any authorized dealer in Southeast Asia and I wasn't that comfortable to buy online for the amount being offered.

A decade later, Gnomon Watch of Singapore got the dealership from Marathon and I was instantly hooked. Currently there are only two models on offer on Gnomon's website (at the time I made the purchase on 20 March 2020), the bracelet version and the rubber strap version. An introductory price to celebrate the new dealership arrangement between Gnomon and Marathon was also on offer.

Steinhart Ocean One Vintage - A Beautiful Homage to the 6200, A Review (plus Video)

I have a number of Steinhart watches in the collection. The Steinhart Watch Company is a small outfit in Augsburg Germany focusing mainly on homages with a few of their own unique designs. Currently in the collection, I have the Ocean Vintage GMT, the TRITON 1000 Titanium Titan, the Ocean One Titanium 500 Premium and the Ocean One 3D Ceramic Bezel. Today I have the pleasure to add another of the brand's offering, the Ocean One Vintage or O1V for short.

The O1V is a homage of a popular old model, the Rolex 6200. The Rolex 6200 was one of the very first Submariners introduced in 1954. Before that point in time, dive watches were very large and provided the diver with no other additional functions except the current time. The addition of a rotating bezel enables a diver to accurately monitor the dive times. Nevertheless, despite having a similar dial, markers, bezel and crown designs, the watch is definitely sized to current contemporary dimensions unlike the original Rolex 6200 which only has a width of 35 mm compared to 42 mm for the O1V.

Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster LOWERCASE Special Edition Reference SBDJ029 (similar to SBDJ027 & SBDJ028) - The Perfect Tuna for the Masses, A Review (plus Video)

Seiko’s Prospex watches is subdivided into Sea, Land, Sky and Run. Although most would be familiar with the dive watches from the Sea collection, the Land collection is also interesting. In my collection is the Seiko Prospex Fieldmaster SBDC011 (click here for more). It has been given the nickname "Field Tuna" by Seiko fans. It is an automatic watch that features a compass bezel and a shroud similar to that on Seiko's Tuna divers.

Since the introduction of the SBDC011 under the Fieldmaster sub-line in 2010, nothing else of substance was launched by Seiko to carry on the namesake. In 2017, Seiko surprised us with new Prospex Fieldmaster LOWERCASE watches which is similar to past models yet different at the same time.

Made in collaboration with the Japanese design consultants LOWERCASE, Seiko is able to bring something fresh and exciting to its design styling. Lead by Mr. Yuki Kajiwara, creative director of LOWERCASE, the Fieldmaster has been given a radical change in the design department.

Squale 30 ATMOS Blue/Red Vintage GMT Ceramica Reference 1545GBRVC - Quality Control Issues, A Review (plus Video)

I have been looking at the various models offered by Squale in the last few years. There are a number of very interesting designs that I would like to have. However, I never got around acquiring one, until recently.

One of Squale's famous design is the Reference 1545 diver series. This series was first introduced by Squale back in the 1960s. There are a number of slight variations to choose from. I decided to find one with the following criteria: no Rolex or Mercedes hands; sapphire crystal with no magnifying cyclops, ceramic or sapphire inserts for the bezel and jubilee bracelet. Lo and behold, Squale released a model that fit my requirements perfectly. The Squale 30 ATMOS Blue/Red Vintage GMT Ceramica Reference 1545GBRVC is the latest model introduced by Squale.

Made in Switzerland and powered by a Swiss Made automatic movement with quickset GMT and date functions, this is the first black dial GMT model featuring a two-tone blue/red ceramic bezel with engraved caramel coloured 24 hour markers.

I found the watch on offer by Gnomon Watches out of Singapore and I immediately made a purchase. Within a few days, the watch was on my table.

Steinhart Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive - Candidate for a Beater Watch, A Review (plus Video)

The Ocean One series by Steinhart Watches is basically a homage to the iconic Rolex Submariner. All this while, I have refrained myself from getting them as I had a goal of getting a Submariner one day. However, I realised that goal would remain a dream as the current supply and demand situation for the Rolex Submariner remains unabated from historical highs. As such, I decided to look at homages.

Steinhart Watches has one of the most comprehensive set of models as homage to Rolex sports watches including the Submariner. The Ocean One series is the line that caters predominantly to the Submariner genre. After looking at the offering via Gnomon Watch Company out of Singapore, I decided to get the Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive model. It is a typical three-hand automatic analogue watch with a date complication but with a rather unique unidirectional bezel.

Glycine Combat 6 Vintage Reference GL0122 - A Wise and Good Investment, A Review (plus Video)

I am definitely into the military or infantry watch phase. Everywhere I look, only military style watches appeal to me. When I was crazy for dive watches I used to wear them in every occasion but experience have taught me that contemporary styling is important and a mismatch situation of a timepiece with a specific attire is a fashion faux pas.

The Glycine Combat 6 Vintage Reference GL0122 is a simple watch. Made from 316L stainless steel, it has an original military style dial layout with an automatic movement. Manufactured strictly to the MIL-W-3818B military specifications (see the PDF document at the end of the review), the three handed watch with a date complication is easy to use, reasonably accurate and tough.

Since this is the first Glycine in the collection, it would be good to cover the core history of the brand.

Glycine was founded by Eugène Meylan in 1914, The company has been producing watches at its factory in Bienne, Switzerland. One of its famous series is the Combat range. Combat or military style watches stand out for their classic design, enduring strength and reliability. Since the early 1960s, Glycine has offered a slew of examples made for severe conditions of wear and use using military specifications.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT Reference AL-555LNS4H6 Sunset Blue - My Example has a Quality Issue, A Review (plus Video)

I saw Gnomon Watches of Singapore putting up for sale the Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT last month. I tried getting one but was unsuccessful. Recently, the merchant re-listed another one under the series, the reference AL-555LNS4H6 nicknamed Sunset Blue. I quickly made my order and within 24 hours it was on my desk.

On Gnomon Watches, the watch was listed at USD1,080.00. The MSRP is EUR1,295.00. I was able get it for RM4,674.11.

The watch is a tonneau shaped watch casing with hidden lugs, two crowns, boxed crystal, leather strap, three hands, GMT function and date wheel.

The watch has a vintage feel to it. For those of you that prefer the classic look, the Pilot Heritage GMT has all the trappings.

Alpina has a long history of watch making. It had its golden age and it also suffered under the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s and early 1980s. Close to collapsing, Alpina was able to weather the storm and today, the brand is revitalising its name with many interesting offerings. To read more about the brand, please refer to the book about Alpina at the end of this posting.

Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Mechanical Blue Bracelet Reference 241835 - A Capable Refined Timepiece with Limitations, A Review (plus Video)

As you know, I originally separated my watch collection into two blogs, one for watches made in the West while the other for watches made in the East. Due to the inconsistency and unbalance nature  of acquiring watches for the collection, it would appear my http://westernwatch.blogspot.com blog is not getting similar traction as this particular blog. As such, I have decided to consolidate all my reviews, whether it is Eastern or Western made watches, into this blog instead from this point onward. The existing reviews on http://westernwatch.blogspot.com will remain for reference.

When the first INOX (it is actually spelt as I.N.O.X. but for the purpose of this review I will write it down without the periods) was launched in 2014, I willed myself to wait for a mechanical version to appear. As the years progress, I actually lost hope that Victorinox will ever come out with an automatic caliber timepiece. Many reviewers have the assumption that such possibility is remote if Victorinox wants to maintain the 'indestructibility' quality of the INOX. No mechanical movement is deemed able to withstand the myriad of tests that an INOX is expected to endure. Before anyone accuses me of being a quartz-phobic, I am not. I do collect quart watches (see the list of quartz watches in the collection here). My preference is solar or kinetic powered timepieces because only these kind of quartz watches do not need periodic battery replacement. For me, an INOX would be better suited as a solar powered timepiece instead of battery powered. The though of always opening the case-back after every two-year cycle is too intrusive in my view. The integrity of the INOX can be put into question after every cycle. Do note that in the instruction manual for the quartz INOX, it is recommended that a maintenance service should also be done during a battery change.

Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition International Ref. SJE073 or JDM Ref. SARA015, The Best Reinterpretation of an Icon - A Review (plus Video)

When the Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition Ref. SJE073 (International reference)/SARA015 (JDM reference) was showcased at Baselworld 2018, I was hooked. It immediately became another 'grail' watch for me. Why a 'grail' watch you might ask? The likelihood of me snaring one of the only 1,881 examples made is slim considering how beautiful it is.

In many reviews, the SJE073/SARA015 has been given the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake". This nickname was already given to the SARX055 last year. It is not fair to strip it from the incumbent just because this looks closer to the GS Snowflake. I prefer to give the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake 2" to the SJE073/SARA015. I will provide a justification on this later.

This new Presage introduced an all new Seiko caliber, the 6L35. The new caliber is thinner and more accurate compared to the commonly used base caliber for Presage, the 6R15. The dimensions of the watch also took advantage of the thinner movement to make for a much thinner watch casing.

The photos of the watch taken at Baselworld 2018 and via the press kit provided by Seiko wetted my appetite even more. When Gnomon Watches sent me a product update newsletter with the SJE073/SARA015 available at the store, I jumped at the opportunity to get one.

The MSRP in Japan is listed at YEN240,000 (before taxes). Gnomon Watches listed it at USD2,100 which is equivalent to RM8,994.75 at the point of purchase. The purchasing experience is smooth as silk and the watch was on my desk in 48 hours.

EVANT Decodiver Fume Black Limited Production Dive Watch (similar to Decodiver Fume Sky Blue) - A Flexible Watch that can be Worn in the Sea as well as in the Boardroom, A Review (plus Video)

Evant is a relatively new brand in the world of watchmaking. It was introduced to the world in 2017 with the launch of the Tropic Diver. I was rather smitten by the design and I decided to get a piece to see for myself. The Evant Tropic Diver Fume Blue was a handsome watch (see my review on that watch here) and I was quite pleased with the first product from a startup. When Evant launched the marine bronze version of the watch, the Evant Tropic Diver Bronze Finale, I took possession of that one as well (see my review on that watch here). For that piece Evant was able to bring together the simplicity of design, the use of exotic material and rich colours into a singular package that screams value beyond the level it was sold at.

This year, after remaining silent for since the last product launching, Evant presents a new series to the market - The Decodiver.

Similar to the Tropic Diver, the Decodiver incorporates a lot of vintage dive watches genre in its overall design. The slab surfaces and short lug styling is reminiscent to the diver watches of the 1970s. Very minimalist with just the three hands and the unidirectional timing bezel as the only complications on the watch.

Seiko Spirit Automatic SARB035 JDM – The White Knights of Seiko, A Review (plus Video)

My interest in dress or formal watches continues unabated. Today I was able to get another of the famous White Knights of Seiko, the Seiko Spirit SARB035. This design is not new. It was first made available back in 2009 under Seiko’s Spirit line. This is a line of formal dress watches less complex than the Premier line. As opposed to other models in the Spirit line, the SARB035 is completely mechanical. This is also a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) model i.e. made in Japan and sold only for the Japanese market.

Seiko is one watch brand that is synonymous with value-for-money timepieces at every price range. I have to declare up-front that I am one of the many Seikonistas that follow the brand closely and with a passion. Having said that, I do try to be objective but I guess, the readers will be the judge of that.

The SARB035 is an in-house made timepiece that is priced at YEN45,000 (MSRP in Japan). Made out of polished and brushed stainless steel, the watch casing has a diameter of 38.0 mm. It has a thickness of 11.2 mm and its lug-to-lug width is 45.0 mm. Lug width is 20.0 mm. The watch casing is paired with a stainless steel bracelet that starts at 20.0 mm at the lugs and tapers to 18.0 mm at the clasp. The clasp is signed and secured with a button lock.

Seiko Presage Automatic Blue "Tuxedo" Ref. SARX045 - An Elegant Gentleman's Watch, A Review (plus Video)

I am really into dress watches now. Having tasted the quality and beauty of Seiko's classy dress watches from the Grand Seiko line right down to the level entry Seiko 5 line, my hunger for more is insatiable. While researching the Japanese Seiko website, I came across the SARX045, a watch under the Presage line. This particular model is a JDM hence information can only be found on the Japanese website, not on the global website.

Not a lot has been written and commented on the SARX045. As part of the Presage line under the Prestige sub-category, the SARX045 has a MSRP of YEN70,000 and has a contemporary dress watch design. Made out of stainless steel, the dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with inner AR coating. It has a screw-down display case-back with Hardly crystal. It's width is 39.5 mm (excluding the crown), lug width is 20.0 mm, lug-to-lug length is 48.0 mm and a height of 11.3 mm. Although the crown utilises a push-in style system, the watch is still water rated to 10 ATM or 100 meters. Powered by a Seiko automatic 6R15D movement with manual wind and seconds hand stop capabilities, the watch has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.