Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion” - Legacy Perfected, A Review (plus Video)

 

I am keen on the Grand Seiko Tentagraph Tokyo Lion Chronograph SLGC009. However, the price for the timepiece is beyond my financial capacity.

 

At a Grand Seiko event a few weeks ago, I was able to express my interest to get a few of their models into the collection. Luck has it that it was heard and I was offered two watches for a special price. What makes the deal sweet is that both watches have two elements that are missing in the collection: The Tokyo Lion watch design and the brand's mechanical manual winding movement. 

 

The Tokyo Lion in question is the Sport Collection Spring Drive SBGA481 which will be the watch being reviewed in this report.

 

There are three styles of Tokyo Lion currently available for fans using the Spring Drive series of movements. There is a chronograph version, a GMT version and the standard 3-hand version. I did not have a free choice but the option that was given to me, the standard 3-hand version is good enough for a start.   

  

Head-To-Head: Seiko 5 Sport Military 100M SNZG09K1 versus Hamilton Khaki Field King Automatic H64455133

In this article, I will conduct a simple head-to-head comparison between two iconic field watches from Seiko and Hamilton, the Seiko 5 Sport Military SNZG09K1 (left) and the Hamilton Khaki Field King H64455133 (right).

 

Both have the classic field watch dial arrangement with a main 12 hour scale and an inner 24 hour sub-scale. The day and date complication overrides the 3 o'clock markers for the Seiko whereas the same set of complications overrides the 12 o'clock marker for the Hamilton. Apart from this major visual difference, there are some size differences as well. Please refer to the comparison table provided below.

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGK009 (similar to SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005 & SBGK007) - Subtle and Sophisticated Character, A Review (plus Video)

The pricing by Grand Seiko is getting very painful to swallow. This is the consequence of the Seiko Group adopting the Swiss business strategy to set the Grand Seiko as a luxury brand instead just a better model compared to the rest of the Seiko lineup. 

To be brutally honest, I do have a Swiss watch bias. If we compare the quality of manufacturing, the polishing and the overall packaging, Grand Seiko shines heads-and-shoulders above contemporary Swiss watches like Rolex or Omega (this is my humble opinion - you may agree of disagree but lets agree that everyone is entitled to their own opinion).

Recently, I was given a - once in a blue moon - opportunity to acquire two Grand Seikos. This first is the SBGK009 which is reviewed here and the second...I am keeping it a secret for now. It will be up on the blog after this review goes out.

 

If you know me, I would take the SBGK005 over the SBGK009 because of the brilliant blue dial of the former. However, having a model with a bracelet option is a better choice to make. Hence, I chose the SBGK009 over the rest.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Automatic Datsun 240Z Limited Edition SRQ057J1 (similar to the regular-production SRQ055J1) - Linking Two Giant Japanese Brands, A Review (plus Video)

Another Seiko Speedtimer has graced the collection. This time around, it is a collaboration between Seiko and the precursor of the Nissan Motor car company of Japan, Datsun. This collaboration has some meaning to me as the car my wife had when we first got married more that 30 years ago was a red Datsun 130Y.

 

I also bought this particular Speedtimer as its has a design feature that is actually quite contemporary to most brands but seldom seen on a Seiko automatic chronograph - a tachymeter scale set on the bezel instead of on the chapter ring. More about this later.

 

The colour combination, with black being the dominant colour and a touch of red, blue and polished steel gives the watch character that is not too blatant yet subtle. 

 

To be honest, I am kind of hooked into chronographs at the moment and when the SRQ057J1 was announced, I felt the need to get one.

Head-To-Head: Hamilton khaki Field Officer Auto H70615733 versus Glycine Combat 6 Vintage Reference GL0122

Comparative Review: Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto H70615733 vs. Glycine Combat 6 Vintage GL0122

Left: Hamilton; Right: Glycine 

 

Hamilton American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition Reference H13605130 - Futuristic Art, A Review (plus Video)

The Hamilton Watch brand has some of the most iconic designs in the watch industry. The Face2Face series (Version II & Version III which are in the collection), the Ventura Elvis, the Aviation X-Wind, the PSR, the ChronoMatic, the Aviation Takeoff and the Belowzero, among others have cultivated a strong following of watch collectors. The brand is also famous for having tie-ins with blockbuster movies with the brand's first on-screen appearance in the 1932 film Shanghai Express. In fact, the Hamilton watches has graced the silver screen in over 450 major feature films. As a result, over the last 93 years, Hamilton has become known as the movie brand, thanks to its close association with Hollywood productions.

 

For me, despite being part of the Swatch Group, Hamilton still has design independence and the innovative drive to create something different than the typical run-of-the-mill offerings by some of the brands in the group. 

In all honesty, my acquisition of this watch has nothing to do with it being a tie-in with the Death Stranding game franchise but more to the aggressive design.

King Seiko VANAC Limited Edition SLA089J1 (similar to SLA083J1, SLA085J1, SLA087J1 & SLA091J1) - A Captivating Retro-Modern Reinterpretation, Distinguished by its Exclusivity , A Review (plus Video)

My anticipation for the VANAC series re-crafted models has been steadily building since I first caught wind of their launch announcement several months ago. The promise of a modern reinterpretation of a classic design immediately captured my imagination. As subsequent details gradually emerged – glimpses of the dial, specifications, and craftsmanship – my initial excitement was tempered by a growing, almost instinctive suspicion. A quiet voice in the back of my mind whispered that such a significant revitalization, coupled with the brand's heritage, would inevitably command a premium. Unfortunately, that intuition proved accurate when the official pricing was revealed, placing the watches firmly in the five-figure territory. While the cost gave me undeniable pause, the sheer allure of the design proved irresistible. It wasn't just attractive; it felt genuinely refreshing – a harmonious blend of vintage inspiration and contemporary execution that stood apart. Ultimately, the aesthetic appeal and the emotional pull outweighed the financial hurdle, solidifying my decision to acquire one.

Faced with a compelling selection of five distinct models within the VANAC re-crafted line, the decision required careful consideration. Each piece offered its own unique character and appeal. However, my focus quickly narrowed to the limited edition SLA089J1. Its defining characteristic – a global production run restricted to a mere 700 pieces – imbued it with an undeniable sense of exclusivity and future collectibility. This inherent rarity was a powerful draw. The truly surprising factor, and the decisive one, was the revelation that this limited-edition gem carried the exact same price tag as its standard-production siblings within the series. This unexpected price parity transformed the SLA089J1 from a tempting option into the clear, value-driven choice. Acquiring a watch with such inherent scarcity without paying a premium felt like securing a unique opportunity, making the selection not just a matter of preference, but a remarkably logical decision.

RED STAR 1963 Bullhead Chronograph Mechanical Watch - Vintage-Inspired Boldness with Surprising Ergonomics, A Review (plus Video)

My first purchase on AliExpress. I have heard a lot about Chinese made watches found on the website with really incredible prices. I decide to check it out for myself by registering my account on the platform. Then it dawned on me - why not try getting a vintage looking watch that I adore - a bullhead chronograph.

In the collection I have the following bullheads: 

Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph; Citizen Promaster TSUNO Chronograph; Seiko 5 Sports SSA171J1; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Titanium SBEJ003; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Spring Drive SBDB005; Laco 1925 Squad Atacama Ninja;

and Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph.

 

The ST1901 powered bullhead chronograph from Red Star fit the bill and I started searching for it. I found one with a sub-RM1,000 listing from a active seller on the platform. I swiftly ordered and waited patiently for the watch to arrive. For more on the first-time experience, I have dedicated a section on this towards the end of this review.

I recently got a ST1901 powered Chinese watch. The 

Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch uses the same movement. In the Red Star, the movement has been realigned so that the crown and pushers are now at the top side of the watch instead of the right side of the casing.

Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving 1000M Auto-Mechanical Watch Reference 816.37.1217 (similar to 816.37.1217H) - A Bold Statement of Engineering and Value, A Review (plus Video)

  My trip to China's mainland in May 2025 was a revelation, whirlwind of futuristic cities, bustling markets and homegrown innovation. Amidst modern streets of Shenzhen, I sought a tangible keepsake to commemorate the journey. 

 

While souvenir shops peddled trinkets, I gravitated toward something deeper: a mechanical watch from a Chinese brand, a symbol of the nation’s growing engineering prowess. After some time of doing research, I found the only boutique by Seagull in Shenzhen. By just using public transportation (the metro), getting to that shop from I was staying was easy and very relaxing. As it is the starting of summer, the air-conditioning was a godsend! It is also makes it sweeter when the cost of public transportation in China is really dirt cheap with extensive coverage.

 

At the boutique, I was surprised the number of models available. There was a large number of watches with tourbillon movements which I have not seen before. While looking at the watches on display, I came across a new series of dive watches called Okeanos. This series is a blend of mythic storytelling, technical ambition, affordability and coupled with Seagull’s 70-year legacy as China’s oldest watchmaker. As the first under the Okeanos series and the first having the 1000-meter water rating for the brand, I settled on the Seagull Okeanos 70th Anniversary Professional Ultra Diving Watch. It made it the perfect memento for my first trip to mainland China. 

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mechanical Chronograph Tentagraph SLGC007G - A Masterpiece of Precision and Natural Beauty, A Review (plus Video)

In 2023, Grand Seiko introduced its first mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph, the
SLGC001G. The name Tentagraph  was an amalgamation of its several properties: ten beats per second, three-day power reserve, and automatic chronograph.

The model is not a limited edition timepiece but it may as well have been one as units allocated to Malaysia were very limited. I suspect the reason was more because of its high price point. At RM60,600 per piece, Grand Seiko has decided to priced it at a level never seen before. I suppose, distributors may have been nervous to commit as the demand for such watches at these new prices was unknown then.

Now, after two years, for 2025 we see the first expansions of the Tentagraph lineup with two new models. The first, the Evolution 9 SLGC007G Tentagraph, is pretty straightforward. Similar to the first Tentagraph, but with a light blue main dial with the brand's iconic Iwate texture and black sub-dials The second chronograph is from the Sports Collection and has the aggressive "Tokyo Lion" design language, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G.

At the moment, only the SLGC007G is available. After a quick inspection I decided to get it.