RED STAR 1963 Bullhead Chronograph Mechanical Watch - Vintage-Inspired Boldness with Surprising Ergonomics, A Review (plus Video)

My first purchase on AliExpress. I have heard a lot about Chinese made watches found on the website with really incredible prices. I decide to check it out for myself by registering my account on the platform. Then it dawned on me - why not try getting a vintage looking watch that I adore - a bullhead chronograph.

In the collection I have the following bullheads: 

Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph; Citizen Promaster TSUNO Chronograph; Seiko 5 Sports SSA171J1; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Titanium SBEJ003; Seiko Prospex Landmaster Spring Drive SBDB005; Laco 1925 Squad Atacama Ninja;

and Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph.

 

The ST1901 powered bullhead chronograph from Red Star fit the bill and I started searching for it. I found one with a sub-RM1,000 listing from a active seller on the platform. I swiftly ordered and waited patiently for the watch to arrive. For more on the first-time experience, I have dedicated a section on this towards the end of this review.

I recently got a ST1901 powered Chinese watch. The 

Seagull 1963 Aviation Chronograph Pilot Mechanical Watch uses the same movement. In the Red Star, the movement has been realigned so that the crown and pushers are now at the top side of the watch instead of the right side of the casing.

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

The Brand: Red Star

The company, Red Star, produces "Seagull 1963" style watches, using Tianjin movements but with custom cases and crystals. It is headed by Thomas Leung, who previously worked for Tianjin Seagull. Red Star watches are sold under the name "Seagull 1963" in the US and Poljot in Europe. The company has a factory called “Red Star” outside Shenzhen, China.

The Red Star 1963 Bullhead Chronograph Mechanical Watch Series

Red Star offers three different dial and matching bezel colorways. Each comes with an extra leather strap with corresponding colors. Below are the three watches of the series in detail.

	Sun-burst blue dial
	Sun-burst olive green dial
	Sun-burst chocolate dial

The Red Star watch design looks uncannily like my favorite vintage watch, the Seiko Speedtimer Chronograph 6138-0040. Although the differences are obvious, it still 'feels' similar/familiar. 

Seiko Speedtimer Chronograph 6138-0040 of 1977

Of the three color ways available, I chose the chocolate dial as it mimics closest to my favorite vintage model the Seiko 6138-0040.

The Watch

The casing and bracelet is constructed from 316L stainless steel and measures 42.0 mm in diameter. It has a lug-to-lug length of 45.0 mm and a thickness of 15.0 mm. Due to its unique configuration, such as the hidden lugs and the crown and pushers located at 12:00, it should fit most wrist sizes comfortably. It has satin-brushed finishing for the sides and a polished top finishing that plays with reflection subtly. 

 

 

I knew how it would look like but having seen it for the first time in person, I was blown away by the number of boxes it ticked off. First, it looks expensive. Second, it looks sophisticated. Third, it is visually impressive. Fourth, it is very retro cool! As a child of the 1970s, it is very nostalgic. I love the Seiko Speedtimer 6138 series and for the first time I can say I have something similar in my hands.  

The has a polished straight-walled chapter ring that surrounds the sunburst chocolate dial. The applied brand logo in red as well as the brand name in white lettering are found at 3:00. Some may find the font size used for the brand to be on the smaller end of the scale but I personally believe it was a good choice so as not to overwhelm the key focal points on the watch.

At the edge of the dial is the 1/5th sub-seconds timing scale in white paint. Next is the applied rectangular hour markers, polished with a line of Super-LumiNova BGW9 luminous paint at the center. Every hour markers are the same except for 12:00 and 6:00 which have been truncated somewhat to accommodate the two sub-dials.

 

The bicompax design has sub-dials located at 12:00 and 6:00. The sub-dial at 12:00 is the 30-minute counter for the chronograph while the sub-dial at 6:00 is for the seconds hand. The sub-dials have a square design to give that 70s aura feel to them. Two sloping square cuts was made on the main dial to accommodate the sub-dials. Around the slope of the sub-dials, line markers in white were added. The surface of the sub-dial is painted light brown with a sunburst texture.  Both sub-hands are painted black for contrast. This creates a good three dimensional effect to the dial. Meanwhile, the main hands on the watch is painted black while the first half is painted with luminous paint. The main chronograph seconds hand is painted in orange. 

Protecting the dial is a reinforced box mineral glass with blue coating to prevent glare. I love this style of window on the dial. Unfortunately, it does heighten the risk of damage as the glass sit high beyond the protection of the fixed bezel. As for the bezel, it has an anodized aluminum insert and tachymeter scale in the same colour of the dial. Although not required as it is not a dive watch, Red Star incorporated a luminous pip on the bezel at 12:00 (see photo above) adding both functionality and a touch of flair.

 

The crown and pushers on the watch are defining elements of its bold, retro-inspired design, directly evoking the "bullhead" aesthetic that gives the watch its name. Positioned uniquely at the top of the case, the oversized pilot-style crown is prominently signed with the Red Star emblem and flanked by chronograph pushers at 11:00 and 1:00, mirroring the horns of a bull. This unconventional layout, achieved by rotating the Seagull ST1901 movement 90 degrees during assembly, optimizes ergonomics for chronograph operation, allowing intuitive thumb activation while minimizing wrist interference. The polished stainless steel pushers offer crisp, tactile feedback when engaging the column-wheel chronograph, while the deeply knurled crown ensures secure grip for hand-winding and time-setting.

Functionally, this top-mounted configuration enhances usability during timing activities, such as motorsports or aviation, where traditional side-positioned controls might be obstructed by gloves or straps. The crown's size and texture further facilitate quick adjustments, though its non-screw-down design aligns with the watch's 30 meter water resistance rating, prioritizing vintage aesthetics over dive-ready robustness. Visually, this arrangement balances the asymmetrical case, drawing attention upward to the chronograph’s "bull horns" and reinforcing the 1970s design ethos that inspired the model. Collectively, the crown and pushers exemplify Red Star’s fusion of historical flair and mechanical pragmatism, making the Bullhead a standout in sub-$250 chronographs. 

 

 

 

The Bullhead Chronograph features an exhibition case-back with a screw-down construction, combining aesthetic appeal with functional robustness. Crafted from mineral crystal, this transparent window offers a clear view of the manually wound Seagull ST1901 column-wheel chronograph movement inside, showcasing its intricate column-wheel mechanism, 21 jewels, and signature swan-neck regulator for precision adjustment. The case-back is often engraved with a bullhead motif, reinforcing the watch’s thematic design inspired by 1970s chronographs. This design balances horological transparency with everyday resilience, allowing enthusiasts to admire the movement’s 21,600 BPH while ensuring reliability for daily wear. The exhibition back also highlights the movement’s historical lineage, as the ST1901 is derived from the Swiss Venus 3017—a caliber whose production equipment was acquired by Seagull in the 1960s.



The watch features a versatile two-strap system, typically including both a stainless steel bracelet and a genuine leather strap (brown, see below), allowing wearers to adapt the watch for casual or formal occasions. The 316L steel bracelet showcases a tapered design, narrowing from 22 mm at the lugs to 18 mm at the clasp for ergonomic comfort. Its construction emphasizes durability, with polished center links and brushed outer links creating a dynamic contrast that mirrors the watch’s retro-inspired case finishing. The bracelet secures via a double-locking fold-over clasp (signed with the Red Star emblem), enhancing security during daily wear 10.

 

Functionally, the bracelet prioritizes wearability and adaptability. Its short-pitch link configuration ensures flexibility, conforming naturally to the wrist while avoiding pinching or slippage. User feedback notes the bracelet’s substantial weight (contributing to a premium feel) but highlights its balanced distribution for all-day comfort. The inclusion of a special tool to quickly release the spring-bars simplifies strap changes, enabling seamless swaps to the included leather strap equipped with a pin buckle for a classic aesthetic. Collectively, this dual-strap approach underscores Red Star’s focus on practical versatility, allowing the Bullhead to transition effortlessly from sporty chronograph to elegant accessory without compromising its 1970s aviation-inspired ethos. 

 

 

 

In the dark, the illumination is bright and consistent. I am extremely happy that Red Star did not totally replaced the hours markers at 12:00 and 6:00. As you can clearly see, every hour marker is illuminated which gives it symmetry. 

 

 

The Wearing Experience

The RED STAR 1963 Bullhead delivers a distinctive on-wrist presence that balances vintage-inspired boldness with surprising ergonomics. Despite its thickness, the watch wears smaller than its dimensions suggest due to its compact 45 mm lug-to-lug length and hidden lugs, which allow the case to hug the wrist naturally. The top-mounted crown and pushers ensure intuitive chronograph operation during activities like timing laps or flights, as they remain unobstructed by gloves or straps. Weighing approximately 137 grams with the bracelet, it feels well-distributed, avoiding top-heaviness. However, the included stainless steel bracelet is often cited as a weak point: its push-pin construction and stamped clasp feel "cheap and rattly," diminishing the premium impression. Most wearers prefer the supple leather strap, which enhances comfort and breathability, paired with a signed buckle.

Functionally, the manual-winding ST1901 movement requires engagement every ~42 hours, with users noting the tactile winding experience. The low-domed mineral crystal minimizes glare but can catch light at extreme angles, while the 30 m water resistance suits daily splashes but discourages swimming. The luminous markers provide ~15 minutes of glow post-charge, adequate for low-light readability but not extended nighttime use. Collectively, the Bullhead excels as a conversation-starting piece that merges 1970s motorsport flair with mechanical authenticity, though its bracelet may necessitate strap customization for all-day comfort. Below are some key highlights:

• Ergonomics: Top-mounted controls reduce wrist interference; compact lug-to-lug suits wrists ≥16cm.
• Compromises: Bracelet quality detracts from premium feel; leather strap recommended for extended wear.
• Interaction: Manual winding ritual (30–40 turns for full power) enhances mechanical connection.
• Legibility: Bold dial design with luminous accents ensures clear time reading in most conditions.

Below is the video of the watch on my wrist.

 

The Purchasing Experience

This is my first purchase on AliExpress. Although I got the watch, the style of the booking and delivery of the watch is different than what I experienced via Amazon. The period when information was updated is not as quickly as I would like. Disappointing to say the least. I think AliExpress must beef up this aspect of the buying experience. 

Specifications 

 

Brand: RED STAR

Model: 1963 Bullhead Chronograph Mechanical Watch
Dial: Sunburst chocolate dial

Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Diameter: 42.0 mm

Thickness: 15.0 mm

Lug Width: 22.0 mm

Lug-to-Lug Length: 45.0 mm

Weight: 137 gm
Crystal: Box mineral reinforced glass with blue coating to prevent glare

Case Back: Screw-down case-back with display window

Bezel: 316L stainless steel bezel with anodized aluminum insert and tachymeter scale

Movement: Seagull ST1901, manual winding with electric blue gooseneck spring & 12:00 luminous pip

Jewels: 21

Frequency: 21.600 BPH

Power Reserve: 45 hours 
Water Resistance: 30 meter (3 Bar)

Illumination: Super-LumiNova BGW9

Bracelet: 316L stainless steel, signed clasp with button release & safety catch
Strap: Additional chocolate leather strap with signed buckle and quick release spring-bars

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter
Vendor: ZY Chronograph Watch Store via AliExpress

Purchase Date: 4 May 2025

Purchase Price: USD189.51

Delivery Date: 29 May 2025

Warranty: Two (2) years

Serial Number: No.1380, 2022

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