Sunday, December 1, 2024

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium Limited Edition Ref. CAW218E.FC6565 - Iconic Style, Modern Technology and a Comfortable, Lightweight Feel, A Review (plus Video)

The first TAG Heuer to grace the collection. It took me sometime to decide to get one. As a fan of Formula One, I note that TAG Heuer is a major sponsor of The Red Bull Racing Team and the watch associated with the Formula One champion, Max Verstappen is the Monaco series. When TAG Heuer decided to launch the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium in 2024, I was hooked and the time was right for me to get one.  

This particular watch is a striking new addition to the iconic Monaco collection, blending the vintage charm of motorsport with modern craftsmanship. This timepiece, launched in the later half of 2024, stands out due to its use of titanium and a bold racing green dial. It is also a limited edition model. 

I visited a number of authorised dealers around Kuala Lumpur before I decided togo to the TAG Heuer Boutique in The Gardens Mall to get one.

This particular model is a limited edition timepiece with only 1,000 units made available. Due to reasons only known to the manufacturer, this watch does not have a serial number that signifies its number within the batch of 1,000 units. Instead, it has a typical running serial number nomenclature used by TAG Heuer manufacturing. More about this later.

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

The History
 
The Series

The Monaco line was born in 1969. Associated with racing and motorsport, this square chronograph gained popularity when the Steve McQueen, wore it in the movie Le Mans in 1971. Since then, the Monaco has been one of the most iconic watches of the brand, with its own unique style - its distinctive square case. The Monaco was among the first of its kind in this design, following Rolex's introduction of a square chronograph in 1940. The Monaco is also one of the few watches to be equipped with the Calibre 11, one of the first automatic chronograph movements ever built.
 

 
Despite being phased out in the mid-1970s, the Monaco was reintroduced in 1998 with a redesigned appearance and again in 2003 with new mechanisms, reflecting a renewed interest in McQueen's legacy.
Years later, the watch became more famous in the 2008-2012 television drama series Breaking Bad, when drug kingpin Walter White, portrayed by actor Bryan Cranston, was gifted with one in the fifth season, which he wore until the final episode. 
 
The first Monaco is the Monaco 1133. Named in honor of the Formula One race, the original Jack Heuer designed Monaco was introduced simultaneously in Geneva and New York City in 1969. The watch used the mechanism of the Calibre 11 (also known as the Chronomatic) and was the first automatic micro-winding chronograph. The Monaco was the first square-cased and water-resistant chronograph.
 
The current Ref. CAW218E.FC6565 is the latest iteration having a similar design to the original. It is a limited edition model with only 1,000 units available worldwide.

The Brand

Heuer AG is a Swiss luxury watchmaker. Founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer in St-Imier, Switzerland, it was acquired by Techniques d'Avant Garde in 1985, which purchased a majority stake in the company, forming TAG Heuer. In 1999, French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE bought nearly 100 percent of the Swiss company. For more information, visit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TAG_Heuer.   

The Calibre 11
 
The year 1969 was a revolutionary year for watchmaking with the advent of the automatic chronograph with three distinct projects presented almost simultaneously. Zenith has the 3019 PHC Calibre, Seiko has the Calibre 6139 and the third team, The Chronomatic/Project 99 Consortium uniting Heuer-Léonidas SA, Léon Breitling SA, Hamilton-Büren and chronograph specialist Dépraz & Co. This last joint-venture conceived the Calibre 11 (or Chronomatic, depending on which brand using the movement). 
 
The history of the Calibre 11 starts at the end of 1965. As Büren had pioneered the production of micro-rotor movements, Gérald Dubois (of Dépraz & Co., a chronograph specialist) figured out that these would be thin enough to be the base for a modular chronograph movement. Dubois contacts Hans Kocher of Büren Watch Co. SA. In need of commercial partners, they convinced Jack Heuer and Willy Breitling to support the project. On 2 February 1966, an agreement was signed. The four-party Chronomatic consortium is born. For confidentiality purposes, the development is code-named Project 99.

Büren was in charge of the base calibre. Dépraz of the chronograph mechanism. Three brands – Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton (who acquired Buren during the development process) – will fit the movement inside their watches. A patent application for the Calibre 11 was filed in September 1967. On 3 March 1969, the movement was officially presented, simultaneously in New York and Geneva. A month later, the three brands present their first chronographs at the 1969 Basel fair.
 
 

The Watch

The Monaco Chronograph Racing Green has a 39 mm case size. The most notable feature of this Monaco model is its Grade 2 titanium case, which is both lightweight and durable. Titanium is a perfect choice for those who want a rugged yet comfortable wear, offering excellent resistance to corrosion and scratches while being significantly lighter than stainless steel. Case is a perfect square—classic to the Monaco line—brings an edge to the wrist, and its brushed finish complements the racing aesthetic. and weighs in at approximately 120 gm. Its lug-to-lug length is 47.4 mm and has a 15 mm height. The casing is water resistant to 100 meters and features a sandblasted finish. The case design preserves the familiar right-hand crown and pushers on the opposite side, emphasizing the retro racing origins of the Monaco.
 

 
The dial is the true centerpiece of this watch. It features a dial which combines a sunray-brushed silver base, which blends well with the case and green sub-dials. The texture captures light at different angles, creating a dynamic and vibrant look. Green is a bold color choice and one that aligns with motorsport history, evoking the traditional British Racing Green that’s synonymous with speed and competition. The green used on the sub-dials is what the brand calls vibrant "green opaline" while bright yellow accents are found on the central seconds hand and the 12:00 marker. Light green Super-Luminova adorns the hour track. A date window is seen at 6:00 and polished silvered hour markers fill out the rest of the dial. Being a Calibre 11 model, it also keeps the historical horizontal applied markers paired with small luminous dots on the minute track.
 

 
The dial is classic Monaco, with two square sub-dials at 3:00 and 9:00 for the chronograph’s 30-minute counter and running seconds, respectively. The green sub-dials provide a high contrast against the silver background, ensuring excellent legibility. The faceted rhodium-plated main hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring they glow in low light, while the bold red chronograph hand pops for easy reading during races or timing events.
 
There are only five lines of texts and logo on the dial. Important to note that Tag Heuer adopted the original branding for this watch which only states "MONACO" and "HEUER" without any reference of 'TAG'. These are located at the upper quadrant of the dial while the rest of the texts, "AUTOMATIC", CHRONOGRAPH" and " SWISS MADE" are located at the bottom quadrant. All the texts and logo are printed directly on the dial in black.
 
The dial is capped with a domed sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating for clarity. The square shape of the crystal further enhances the vintage look of the watch, adding a layer of distortion at its edges that plays with the light.
 

 
As highlighted earlier, the crown is located at 9:00. The crown uses a simple push-in and pull-out system to engage the gears to adjust the time and date. The crown is signed with the "HEUER" logo. The start and stop pusher for the chronograph is at 2:00 while the reset pusher is located at 4:00. I like the design of the pushers. The rectangular pushers has a design consistent with TAG Heuer’s Monaco chronographs. These pushers contribute to the overall angular aesthetic of the watch, blending seamlessly with the square case to maintain its bold, geometric look. This integration of the pushers into the square case design is part of what makes the Monaco stand out compared to more traditional round chronographs. While some modern chronographs feature more rounded or recessed pushers, the Monaco’s pushers are prominent and easily accessible. This vintage feel is a nod to the Monaco’s motorsport heritage, evoking the design of racing chronographs from the golden era of auto racing.
 
The case-back is a flat titanium plate with sapphire display window and fixed with screws to the main casing. Some basic information about the watch are etched on the sides. Through the display window, one can get a glimpse of the famous Calibre 11. Do note that this is not the original Calibre 11 of 1969. Instead, the modern Calibre 11, introduced by TAG Heuer, is a tribute to the original but features updated technology and construction. Although it bears the same name and layout as the vintage version, the contemporary Calibre 11 is based on a Sellita SW300 movement as the base since 2011, combined with a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module from 2006, staying true to the original modular design philosophy.
 

 
Also note the "ONE OF 1000" stamped on the case-back. Instead of serializing the watch like "NUMBER XX OUT OF 1000", TAG Heuer decide to maintain the running serial number instead of a unique one for this limited edition model. Personally, I would have gone for a special serial number as this gives a special appreciation to the series. Unfortunately, the way it is done seems to 'cheapen' it, in my humble opinion.  

One of the most notable features of the modern Calibre 11 is the left-hand crown placement, a signature design choice that remains faithful to the original Monaco. The crown on the left side was a distinctive feature of the first Calibre 11 movement, signaling to users that the watch was automatic and didn’t need daily winding. TAG Heuer retained this unique quirk in the modern Monaco models powered by the Calibre 11.
 
In terms of performance, the modern Calibre 11 is a reliable and accurate automatic movement. The 4 Hz frequency ensures a smooth-running seconds hand, while the chronograph function is responsive and easy to engage. The 40-hour power reserve is decent, though not as generous as newer movements like TAG Heuer’s Heuer 02, which offers up to 80 hours of power.

The modular chronograph construction does lead to some criticisms, particularly in terms of dimension, servicing and overall durability. The Dubois-Dépraz module, while effective, adds height to the watch when compared to watches using an integrated chronograph movement. It also adds complexity to the movement, making it more expensive to service than integrated chronograph movements. Additionally, some purists argue that modular chronographs don’t have the same horological purity as integrated ones. However, for those seeking authenticity and heritage, the Calibre 11’s modular approach is historically correct.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Racing Green Titanium is paired with a green perforated calfskin leather strap, which reinforces its motorsport inspiration. The perforations add a vintage racing glove feel, while the green colour matches the green on the dial. The strap is fitted with a signed "HEUER" titanium folding clasp with a double safety push-button, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.
 
 
Size-wise, the strap is 22 mm at the lugs and tapers down to 18 mm at the clasp. 

Thanks to the lightweight titanium case and ergonomic strap, the watch wears comfortably despite its angular case and 39 mm size. While it may seem larger than it is due to the square shape, the watch sits well on most wrist sizes, and its light weight makes it ideal for all-day wear.
 
The illumination on the TAG Heuer Chronograph Monaco Green Limited Edition is both functional and tastefully integrated into the design. While the Super-LumiNova provides reliable brightness for reading the time in low light, it is applied subtly enough to preserve the watch’s elegant and bold appearance during the day. This balance between functionality and aesthetics is what makes the Monaco a standout piece, even when the lights go down.
 

 

The Wearing Experience

The wearing experience of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Titanium Limited Edition is defined by a seamless blend of comfort, bold aesthetics, and a strong motorsport heritage. Thanks to its lightweight titanium case, the watch feels noticeably lighter on the wrist compared to its stainless steel counterparts, making it ideal for extended daily wear. The 39 mm square case, although distinct and angular, sits comfortably on the wrist, and its ergonomic design ensures that it doesn’t feel bulky.

Visually, the racing green dial immediately commands attention with its rich color and dynamic sun-ray finish. It strikes a balance between vintage inspiration and modern styling, offering both elegance and sportiness. The combination of the silver background, contrasting green sub-dials, and yellow chronograph hand makes it highly legible, even at a glance. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.
 

The tactile feel of the chronograph pushers and the smooth functionality of the Calibre 11 movement further enhance the user experience, offering reliable performance for timing and daily wear. Additionally, the perforated green calfskin leather strap complements the watch’s sporty character while remaining comfortable and flexible. Having the current Formula One Champion, Max Verstappen of Team Red Bull Racing spotting one is sweet!

In summary, the TAG Heuer Monaco Racing Green Titanium Limited Edition provides a unique wearing experience that blends heritage, innovation, and a bold design. It’s a statement piece for motorsport enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate iconic style, modern technology, and a comfortable, lightweight feel.


The Watch Box

The primary watch-box is designed rather ingeniously. Where the watch sits, it can be separated to become a travelling watch-case.

 
Specifications

Case: Titanium sand-blasted
Window: Boxed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 39 mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47.4 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Lug Width: 22 mm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Case-Back: Flat plate with display window (sapphire) and fixed with screws to the casing
Weight: 120 gm
Dial Colour: Silver and green with sunray brushed finishing
Index: Applied
Illuminances: Super-Luminova paint on the hands and hour dots
Strap Material: Calfskin leather
Strap Colour: Green
Finishing: Perforated
Buckle: Titanium folding clasp with double-security
Movement: Calibre 11 Automatic
Jewel: 59
Frequency: 28,800 BPH
Accuracy: -5 seconds to +20 seconds per day
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Functions: Hours; Minutes, Chronograph: seconds, 30 minutes counter; Date
Purchase Date: 8 October 2024
Vendor: Tag Heuer Boutique, Gardens Mall
Price: RM38,050
Warranty: Five (5) years
Limited Edition: 1000 pieces worldwide
Serial Number: 1 out of 1000/CAW218E/WTL7928


Photo Gallery

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THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

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