Wednesday, October 15, 2025

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGK009 (similar to SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005 & SBGK007) - Subtle and Sophisticated Character, A Review (plus Video)

The pricing by Grand Seiko is getting very painful to swallow. This is the consequence of the Seiko Group adopting the Swiss business strategy to set the Grand Seiko as a luxury brand instead just a better model compared to the rest of the Seiko lineup. 

To be brutally honest, I do have a Swiss watch bias. If we compare the quality of manufacturing, the polishing and the overall packaging, Grand Seiko shines heads-and-shoulders above contemporary Swiss watches like Rolex or Omega (this is my humble opinion - you may agree of disagree but lets agree that everyone is entitled to their own opinion).

Recently, I was given a - once in a blue moon - opportunity to acquire two Grand Seikos. This first is the SBGK009 which is reviewed here and the second...I am keeping it a secret for now. It will be up on the blog after this review goes out.
 
If you know me, I would take the SBGK005 over the SBGK009 because of the brilliant blue dial of the former. However, having a model with a bracelet option is a better choice to make. Hence, I chose the SBGK009 over the rest.

THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE

The Series
 
Launched in 2019, Grand Seiko beefed up its Elegance line with set of mechanical watches. At that point, it has been eight years since the last manual-winding mechanical caliber in Grand Seiko product line. With the launch of the Caliber 9S63 that offers a small seconds hand at 9:00 and a power reserve indicator at 3:00, Grand Seiko was able to introduce a series of watches that is dressy yet elegant at the same time. There are five models under this series. These are:
 
SBGK002
Limited Edition: 150 pieces
Case: 18k rose gold
Dial: Urushi lacquer amber colour
Strap: Crocodile leather
MSRP: RM123,000


SBGK004
Limited Edition: 150 pieces
Case: 18k rose gold
Dial: Urushi lacquer black colour
Strap: Crocodile leather
MSRP: RM123,000
SBGK005 
Limited Edition: 1500 pieces
Case: Stainless steel
Dial: Blue colour
Strap: Crocodile leather
MSRP: RM28,000
SBGK007
Standard production
Case: Stainless steel
Dial: Whitecolour
Strap: Crocodile leather
MSRP: RM31,000
SBGK009 
Standard production
Case: Stainless steel
Dial: Black colour
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
MSRP: RM35,100
 
Only one of the models come with a bracelet. For me, getting a model with a standard bracelet is more important because it is always cheaper to get a strap than a bracelet i.e. in event I want to replace the bracelet with a leather strap, the cost of the change is much lower if it was the other way around.
  
 
The Watch 
 
The SBGK009 is made out of stainless steel with Zaratsu polishing. The big update on the SBGK009 is the introduction of a unique bracelet. It is a nine-link bracelet that's replaced the straps found on the other SBGK models. More about this later.
 
 
  
The model has a case measuring 39.0 mm diameter and 11.6 mm in height. The casing is nicely balanced. The lug design makes the watch compatible with today's requirements, while the easy-to-grasp winding crown with the GS emblem offers a user-friendly profile. Curved sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflection coating and glossy bezel successfully highlight the classic theme of the model. The case is equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal display case back and is splash resistant only i.e just 30 meters of water resistance.
 
Another key component is undoubtedly the dial. Finished in anthracite or "dark grey" color, the dial is home to wide retro-looking hands and elongated markers that reinforce the vintage theme. The small second’s indicator located at 9:00 and the vertical power reserve indicator just across it provides a balanced layout. The dial, which does not contain any extra text or marking other than the brand logo and some manufacturing coding in micro sized font highlights the simple and elegant character of the model. 
 
It is also noted that the dial is not flat but domed with the highest point at the centre. This design was adopted to help keep the watch as compact as possible which also requires the minutes hand to have a downward bend at the tip.  
 
Additionally regarding the dial, Grand Seiko calls it "dark grey". In bright light, it reflects like a matte charcoal. However, the moment you start getting into mixed lighting or dim lighting, it becomes "soft black" instead. The ability to change its colour tone is mesmerizing and reinforces the skills available at Grand Seiko. Without understanding the amount of skill and work done on its watches, it is easy to criticize its pricing policy. Overall, it exudes elegance, sleekness, richness and depth. The fact that there are plenty of open spaces and no illumination paint amplifies the effect too.
 
 
 
This particular model uses the simple push-in/pull-out system for the crown. This facilitate the function of manual winding without any additional steps to be taken. One good design feature of the manual winding movement is the distinct 'clicking' sound heard each time the watch is manually wound. It gives a good audible cue to the user although for those who do not know, the 9S63 may come across as a 'rough' movement.
 
 
 
The back is a proper screw-down display case-back. The movement is visible through the sapphire case-back and boasts some extremely reflective Geneva stripes on the amply-sized train bridge that covers two thirds of the movement. There is not a whole lot to see other than the bridge. The polished top of the barrel and barrel click are visible, as is the balance wheel, the lever escapement underneath and next to both the very edge of the fourth wheel is visible driving the small seconds hand. 
 
Caliber 9S63 is a significant addition to the ever growing Grand Seiko family of movements. This is the first example to join the collection. Caliber 9S63 offers a small seconds hand at the 9:00 position and a power reserve indicator at 3:00. The caliber has a power reserve of 72 hours and delivers an accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds a day. Operating at 28,800 BPH, the 33 jewel mechanical movement has been tuned to be very accurate. Below is an image of the movement I got from Grand Seiko's website.
 
A very stylishly designed stainless steel bracelet accompanies the model. It is not easy to design an elegant metal bracelet suitable for the classic dress watch concept, as the bracelets often go along with the sporty models, so it can be difficult to meet the elegance criteria. For this reason, the brands either adopt mesh or Milanese-style bracelets or prefer to offer their models with a stylish leather strap without taking risks.
 
 
 
The bracelet, which completes the Grand Seiko SBGK009, comes in a nine-link format. It uses a pin-and-collar system to link together. At 19.0 mm wide at the lugs with hardly any tapering (based on my measurement, the width just dropped by 1.0 mm at the clasp), the contrasting sequences of the pieces as matte/glossy and the number of the links offer an elegant yet bold look. Designed to be compatible with the case in terms of thickness, the bracelet has preserved its elegance without sacrificing its user-friendly feature thanks to its button-locked signed folding clasp. It has a semblance of 'looseness' that I like.
 
Another thing to note is that the bracelet on the Grand Seiko SBGK009 is a distinct and notable choice for this particular model, especially within the Elegance collection at the time of its release. It features a finely-linked, multi-row nine-link structure in stainless steel, which gives the watch a more refined, dressy, and jewelry-like appearance. While Grand Seiko introduced this watch with a fine metal bracelet, which was a change from the leather straps common on other initial SBGK models, the design itself harkens back to the brand's heritage, sharing a design philosophy with some classic Grand Seiko bracelets from the 1970s. Therefore, it is better described as a revival or a specific application of a traditional design rather than a brand-new creation. 
 
The Wearing Experience 
 
The SBGK009 offers a distinctly comfortable and sleek wearing experience, largely due to its well-proportioned 39mm diameter and 11.6mm thick case, which sits flush on the wrist for a discreet profile that slips easily under a shirt cuff. A significant contributor to its comfort is the finely-linked stainless steel bracelet, a new design inspired by 1970s Grand Seiko models. The nine-link bracelet is not only elegant but also "super comfortable," feeling more like a soft strap on the wrist while providing a secure fit. The overall sensation is one of balanced, lightweight comfort that doesn't sacrifice a feeling of quality.

On the wrist, the watch presents a subtle and sophisticated character. The dark grey dial is a standout feature, appearing as a matte charcoal in bright light and transforming into a "soft black" or an inky brownish-grey in dimmer settings, giving it a rich, chameleon-like depth that avoids the harshness of a pure black dial. This is complemented by the hand-wound Caliber 9S63 movement, which offers a 72-hour power reserve and engages the wearer through the daily ritual of winding. The combined effect is a timepiece that feels both monolithic and deeply refined, effortlessly bridging the gap between a formal dress watch and a versatile accessory that commands admiration for its understated execution. 

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.  

 
 
 
Specifications 
 
Case Material: Stainless steel with Zaratsu polishing
Case Diameter: 39.0 mm 
Case Thickness: 11.6 mm 
Lug-to-Lug Length: 44.0 mm
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release
Lug Width: 19.0 mm 
Dial Colour: Black 
Crystal Type: Dual-curved sapphire crystal 
Crystal Coating: Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
Caseback: Exhibition
Calibre: 9S63
Jewels: 33
Type: Mechanical manual winding
Power Reserve: Approximately 72 hours 
Accuracy: -3/+5 seconds per day 
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Weight: 124.0 gm
Features: (1) Small seconds hand; (2) Power reserve indicator 
Purchase Date: 26 September 2025
MSRP: RM35,100
Serial Number: 970400
Warranty: Five (5) years 
 
Photo Gallery
 



THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE





 

1 comment:

CONTRIBUTE FOR THE UPKEEP OF THIS BLOG

Any contributions is appreciated!