In this blog, I will highlight my watch collection. All the photos are mine.
New posting will be uploaded every start of the month (1st) and middle of the month (15th)
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGK009 (similar to SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005 & SBGK007) - Subtle and Sophisticated Character, A Review (plus Video)
The pricing by Grand Seiko is getting very painful to swallow. This is the consequence of the Seiko Group adopting the Swiss business strategy to set the Grand Seiko as a luxury brand instead just a better model compared to the rest of the Seiko lineup.
To be brutally honest, I do have a Swiss watch bias. If we compare the quality of manufacturing, the polishing and the overall packaging, Grand Seiko shines heads-and-shoulders above contemporary Swiss watches like Rolex or Omega (this is my humble opinion - you may agree of disagree but lets agree that everyone is entitled to their own opinion).
Recently, I was given a - once in a blue moon - opportunity to acquire two Grand Seikos. This first is the SBGK009 which is reviewed here and the second...I am keeping it a secret for now. It will be up on the blog after this review goes out.
If you know me, I would take the SBGK005 over the SBGK009 because of the brilliant blue dial of the former. However, having a model with a bracelet option is a better choice to make. Hence, I chose the SBGK009 over the rest.
THE IMAGE BELOW IS THE LINK TO MY AFFILIATE STORE
The Series
Launched in 2019, Grand Seiko beefed up its Elegance line with set of mechanical watches. At that point, it has been eight years since the last manual-winding mechanical caliber
in Grand Seiko product line. With the launch of the Caliber 9S63 that offers a
small seconds hand at 9:00 and a power reserve
indicator at 3:00, Grand Seiko was able to introduce a series of watches that is dressy yet elegant at the same time. There are five models under this series. These are:
SBGK002 Limited Edition: 150 pieces Case: 18k rose gold Dial: Urushi lacquer amber colour Strap: Crocodile leather MSRP: RM123,000
SBGK004 Limited Edition: 150 pieces Case: 18k rose gold Dial: Urushi lacquer black colour Strap: Crocodile leather MSRP: RM123,000
SBGK007 Standard production Case: Stainless steel Dial: Whitecolour Strap: Crocodile leather MSRP: RM31,000
SBGK009 Standard production Case: Stainless steel Dial: Black colour Strap: Stainless steel bracelet MSRP: RM35,100
Only one of the models come with a bracelet. For me, getting a model with a standard bracelet is more important because it is always cheaper to get a strap than a bracelet i.e. in event I want to replace the bracelet with a leather strap, the cost of the change is much lower if it was the other way around.
The Watch
The SBGK009 is made out of stainless steel with Zaratsu polishing. The big update on the SBGK009 is the introduction of a unique bracelet. It is a nine-link bracelet that's replaced the
straps found on the other SBGK models. More about this later.
The model has a case measuring 39.0 mm diameter and 11.6 mm in
height. The casing is nicely balanced. The lug design makes the watch compatible with today's
requirements, while the easy-to-grasp winding crown with the GS emblem
offers a user-friendly profile. Curved sapphire crystal with internal
anti-reflection coating and glossy bezel successfully highlight the
classic theme of the model. The case is equipped with a
scratch-resistant sapphire crystal display case back and is splash
resistant only i.e just 30 meters of water resistance.
Another key component is undoubtedly the dial. Finished in anthracite or "dark grey" color, the dial
is home to wide retro-looking hands and elongated markers that reinforce
the vintage theme. The small second’s indicator located at 9:00 and the vertical power reserve indicator just across it provides a
balanced layout. The dial, which does not contain any extra text or
marking other than the brand logo and some manufacturing coding in micro sized font highlights the simple and elegant
character of the model.
It is also noted that the dial is not flat but domed with the highest point at the centre. This design was adopted to help keep the watch as compact as possible which also requires the minutes hand to have a downward bend at the tip.
Additionally regarding the dial, Grand Seiko calls it "dark grey". In bright
light, it reflects like a matte charcoal. However, the moment you start getting into mixed lighting or
dim lighting, it becomes "soft black" instead. The ability to change its colour tone is mesmerizing and reinforces the skills available at Grand Seiko. Without understanding the amount of skill and work done on its watches, it is easy to criticize its pricing policy. Overall, it exudes elegance, sleekness, richness and
depth. The fact that there are plenty of open spaces and no illumination paint amplifies the effect too.
This particular model uses the simple push-in/pull-out system for the crown. This facilitate the function of manual winding without any additional steps to be taken. One good design feature of the manual winding movement is the distinct 'clicking' sound heard each time the watch is manually wound. It gives a good audible cue to the user although for those who do not know, the 9S63 may come across as a 'rough' movement.
The back is a proper screw-down display case-back. The movement is visible through the sapphire case-back and boasts some
extremely reflective Geneva stripes on the amply-sized train bridge that
covers two thirds of the movement. There is not a whole lot to see
other than the bridge. The polished top of the barrel and barrel click
are visible, as is the balance wheel, the lever escapement underneath
and next to both the very edge of the fourth wheel is visible driving
the small seconds hand.
Caliber 9S63 is a significant addition to the ever growing Grand Seiko
family of movements. This is the first example to join the collection. Caliber 9S63 offers a small seconds hand at the 9:00 position and a power
reserve indicator at 3:00. The caliber has a power reserve of 72 hours and delivers an accuracy rate of +5 to
-3 seconds a
day. Operating at 28,800 BPH, the 33 jewel mechanical movement has been tuned to be very accurate. Below is an image of the movement I got from Grand Seiko's website.
A very stylishly designed stainless steel bracelet accompanies the
model. It is not easy to design an elegant metal bracelet suitable for
the classic dress watch concept, as the bracelets often go along with
the sporty models, so it can be difficult to meet the elegance criteria.
For this reason, the brands either adopt mesh or Milanese-style bracelets
or prefer to offer their models with a stylish leather strap without
taking risks.
The bracelet, which completes the Grand Seiko SBGK009, comes in a
nine-link format. It uses a pin-and-collar system to link together. At 19.0 mm wide at the lugs with hardly any tapering (based on my measurement, the width just dropped by 1.0 mm at the clasp), the contrasting sequences of the pieces as
matte/glossy and the number of the links offer an elegant yet bold look.
Designed to be compatible with the case in terms of thickness, the
bracelet has preserved its elegance without sacrificing its
user-friendly feature thanks to its button-locked signed folding clasp. It has a semblance of 'looseness' that I like.
Another thing to note is that the bracelet on the Grand Seiko SBGK009 is a distinct and notable choice for this particular model, especially within the Elegance collection at the time of its release. It features a finely-linked, multi-row nine-link structure in stainless steel, which gives the watch a more refined, dressy, and jewelry-like appearance. While Grand Seiko introduced this watch with a fine metal bracelet, which was a change from the leather straps common on other initial SBGK models, the design itself harkens back to the brand's heritage, sharing a design philosophy with some classic Grand Seiko bracelets from the 1970s. Therefore, it is better described as a revival or a specific application of a traditional design rather than a brand-new creation.
The Wearing Experience
The
SBGK009 offers a distinctly comfortable and sleek wearing experience,
largely due to its well-proportioned 39mm diameter and 11.6mm thick
case, which sits flush on the wrist for a discreet profile that slips
easily under a shirt cuff.
A significant contributor to its comfort is the finely-linked stainless
steel bracelet, a new design inspired by 1970s Grand Seiko models. The nine-link bracelet is not only elegant but also
"super comfortable," feeling more like a soft strap on the wrist while
providing a secure fit. The overall sensation is one of balanced, lightweight comfort that doesn't sacrifice a feeling of quality.
On
the wrist, the watch presents a subtle and sophisticated character. The
dark grey dial is a standout feature, appearing as a matte charcoal in
bright light and transforming into a "soft black" or an inky
brownish-grey in dimmer settings, giving it a rich, chameleon-like depth
that avoids the harshness of a pure black dial.
This is complemented by the hand-wound Caliber 9S63 movement, which
offers a 72-hour power reserve and engages the wearer through the daily
ritual of winding.
The combined effect is a timepiece that feels both monolithic and
deeply refined, effortlessly bridging the gap between a formal dress
watch and a versatile accessory that commands admiration for its
understated execution.
Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.
Specifications
Case Material: Stainless steel with Zaratsu polishing
Case Diameter: 39.0 mm
Case Thickness: 11.6 mm
Lug-to-Lug Length: 44.0 mm
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release
How AI is Transforming Manufacturing
ReplyDelete