Seiko 5 Sports GMT SKX Sports Style Blue Dial SSK003K1 (similar to SSK001K1 and SSK005K1) - Not a Progeny of the SKX, A Review (plus Video)

When news came out a few months ago about the possibility of Seiko introducing a new movement with a GMT complication for its entry level Seiko 5 Sports line, there was genuine excitement in the air. The concept of a GMT is not unique in the watch world but to have a new automatic GMT movement designed specifically for an affordable range series is unprecedented. Current GMT movements are in a price range generally higher than a typical Seiko 5 Sports. Ability to introduce a GMT complication in a cheaper movement opens a whole lot of possibilities.

Moreover, to make the deal even sweeter, Seiko decided to incorporate its famous SKX diver series (c. 1996 - 2019) design philosophy in the new SSK series. Due to Seiko's new product classification guide, the new SSK does not have some of the key specifications loved by SKX's legion of fans. This break away from the iconic SKX could influence your views regarding the SSK.

Of course I will have to acquire one for the collection. Of the three available, I decided to choose the blue dial version, the SSK003K1. I made my order through my trusted dealer and he delivered.

The Series

The new Seiko 5 Sports GMT SKX Sports Style series consists of three watches; the SSK001K1 “Black Grape”, the SSK003K1 “Blueberry” and the SSK005K1 “Mikan Orange”. Do note that the end suffix “K1” signifies origin is from a Seiko factory outside Japan. A “J1” suffix means a watch is from a factory in Japan and an additional print on the watch (usually at the dial and case-back would have a “MADE IN JAPAN” notation).

SSK001K1

SSK003K1

SSK005K1

The 4-hand design comes with a date complication as well as a magnifying cyclops eye. Paired with a Jubilee-style bracelet, the whole package has that rugged, yet classic look to it. In Malaysia, the MSRP is RM2,155 each. 

I do owned a SKX007, a legend (please click on this link to see the article about that watch). As the model name suggest for the new SSK series, Seiko took a lot of the SKX cues for the new watch design. The Jubilee bracelet, the dimensions, the hands and the hour markers are generally similar albeit some minute differences. Nevertheless, there are also some major differences between the SSK and the SKX such as the GMT complication versus the day complication, the water rating of 100 meters versus 200 meters, the bidirectional friction fit bezel versus the unidirectional ratchet control bezel, the push-in crown versus the screw-down crown and the display case-back versus a solid case-back.  

Although the SSK is not strictly a dive watch like the original SKX, for most owners, its current capabilities is sufficient. Some of you may have wished Seiko did a 're-craft' edition of the the older SKX but dropping a few key features along the way is necessary to fit into the new Seiko 5 Sports lineup which was formally revamped in 2019. Nevertheless, if you are still keen for professional dive watches, the Prospex line is where you should go. Even so, the Seiko 5 Sports lineup is still pretty impressive, capable to handle most activities.

This move by Seiko to design a very affordable mechanical movement with a GMT complication is very significant. The cost of a mechanical movement is directly proportional to the number of complications attached to it. Hence, for a low-end mechanical wristwatch, the best one could expect are a day and a date complications. Anything more and the cost of making such a movement would make it jump to the next price point. 

It seems that Seiko is challenging this perception. With the success of the launch of the 4R34 GMT movement (I doubt anyone would think otherwise), a lot of independent brands are keen to know when this movement will be available to be incorporated into their own watches (Seiko, via its Seiko Instruments Inc. subsidiary - or SII - will usually make available more common movement of Seiko to other watch makers under the NHxx series). What is more tantalizing is the possibility that Seiko will start to tinker with adding other complications that are deemed high-end such a chronograph for example. If this happens, Seiko is definitely THE KING!

The Watch

The SSK003K1 is made out of stainless steel with the same shape as the iconic SKX diver. It is 42.5 mm wide by 46.0 mm lug-to-lug. The lug width is 22.0 mm and has a height of 13.6 mm. Total weight is 161 gm (assuming the bracelet is not resized from standard).

 

The dial is metallic blue. It has applied markers similar to the iconic SKX. By eliminating the day complication on the SSK, the aperture that shows only the date wheel now closely resembles a hour marker. This helps in maintaining some semblance of symmetry for the dial. As expected of a Seiko, the applied hour markers are liberally painted with Lumibrite for illumination in the dark.  

There are five lines of texts on the dial. The brand is applied while the Seiko 5 Sports logo is painted on. Both are located at the upper quadrant of the dial. The words 'Automatic' in white and the 'GMT' in red are located on the bottom quadrant. At the bottom corner near 6:00 is a series of production codes in extremely small font.

 

The chapter ring, also in blue, is where the next set of timing scale can be found. The 24-hour scale is made out of lines and numbers, painted white. For referencing, the thick Lumibrite painted hours and minutes hands plus the lollipop seconds hand which is similar to the iconic SKX are used. In addition, the fourth hand, painted in red with a section painted in Lumibrite paint is for the GMT function.  

 

 

Protecting the dial is a flat Hardlex crystal. The edge of the crystal is beveled. On top of the date aperture, Seiko decided to add a cyclops magnifying glass. Seiko needs to look further into the part of the manufacturing process as the placement of the cyclops is not perfectly squared to the aperture. This is a common problem that has a high frequency of feedback from customers. In all honesty, not having the cyclops could be the easiest and cheapest solution to the problem.

 

 

Surrounding the Hardlex crystal is the bi-directional bezel. Made out of stainless steel, it has a classic coin-edge, similar to the SKX, to facilitate grip. Instead of a ratcheting system, the bezel is friction fitted with enough traction to keep the bezel fixed to a position during normal wear.

 

Seiko designers added a dual tone aluminum insert with a 24-hour scale protected by a Hardlex crystal cover. Flushed with the rim of the bezel as well the dial crystal, it creates a continuous flat surface (apart from the beveled edge of the dial crystal) of crystal. This projects an impression of a bigger watch than is actually is. Moreover, the bezel now looks 'expensive' and enhances the visual experience of the watch.

 

  

 

The casing has a nice organic-like curves with pass-through lug holes. The unsigned crown is located at 4:00 and protected in a shoulder well, similar to the iconic SKX. Seiko designers incorporated a push-in/pull-out system for the crown. The first position accesses the gears to adjust the date and GMT hand while the second position accesses the gears to adjust the time. While in the safe position (fully placed against the wall of the casing), the crown can be turned to manual wind the watch.

 

 

The screw-down case-back has a display window. Through the window you can see the none decorated Caliber 4R34. Note that Seiko printed most of the information about the watch at the edge of the Hardlex window. Only the serial number was sand-blasted on the metal casing.

An interesting note about the serial number of the particular watch. It is stated to be 529290. Using the Seiko serial number rule, this implies that the watch casing was manufactured latest in February 2015, where the first digit signifies the year (2005, 2015, 2025 etc) while the second digit signify the month (2 => February). The last four digits signifies the batch number (i.e. this is the 9290th unit produced). Is this correct since the GMT was only launched in 2022? If the Seiko serial number rule is correct, this implies that Seiko used a blank casing made in 2015 that has been kept in stock. Can anyone confirm this?

The Movement 

Inside the watch is a new movement under the 4R family. The Calibre 4R34 is derived from the 4R36 workhorse used in most Seiko 5 Sports watches. The difference in the new movement is that it replaces the day display of the 4R36 with a 24-hour hand. The substitution, as opposed to addition, of the second time zone complication is likely the reason why the Seiko was able to introduce the GMT functionality into a Seiko 5 Sports series while still keeping the price relatively low.

Similar to the 4R36, the 4R34 has 24 jewels, operating at a frequency of 3 hertz (21,600 BPH) and has a power serve of approximately 41 hours. Accuracy is also similar of approximately between +45 SPD and -35 SPD. The only differences are the replacement of the day complication to a 24-hour hand and the increase in the heights of the newer movement by an additional 0.1 mm.

 

The Bracelet

The watch casing is paired with a Jubilee-style solid stainless steel bracelet. The 5-row bracelet has plenty of articulation. Unlike the 'jiggly' Jubilee-style folded steel bracelet on the SKX, the bracelet on the SSK is solid with solid end-links. As the links are shorter than the typical Oyster-style bracelets, resizing can be more accurate. Furthermore, Seiko maintained an additional 4 micro-adjustment holes on the clasp to help in resizing. Meanwhile, the clasp is signed with push button release and safety latch.

 

 

 

I also like the fact that Seiko now included pass-thorough lug holes to help facilitate strap changes.  

 

The Illumination

 

Seiko's reputation on this front is legendary and the SSK continues to the carry the flame. Below is a photo of the watch in the dark.

 

 

The Wearing Experience

 

The dimensions of the watch is a perfect fit for my 6.75 inch circumference wrist. It weighs the right amount to remind you that it is on the wrist yet it doesn't tire you. All that you would expect like the iconic SKX.

 

 

Nevertheless, there are some aspects that you need to take note of which may or may not be negative factors for the watch. 

 

The first is the cyclops magnifying glass. You either tolerate it or hate it with a passion. I am more of the former person. Unfortunately, Seiko didn't do enough to make more people appreciate the cyclops due to quality control. The inability/lack of trying to place the cyclops properly above the date window is a minus point in my book. A solution is to dispensed the cyclops eye and just keep the flat Hardlex crystal as is. 

The second is the crown system. Although the SSK is only water rated to 100 meters, due to the latest CNC manufacturing process, Seiko can easily matched the iconic SKX 200 meters water rating. This may require the crown to be a screw-down but that should not be difficult to do. If Seiko kept the SSK to have the same water rating of the iconic SKX, than this SSK would truly be the progeny of an icon.

The third is the bezel. Seiko should have kept the bezel on the SSK to be unidirectional with a ratcheting system instead of bi-directional with a friction system. Again, this is to show the lineage to the iconic SKX.

 

The GMT function on the SSK is usually called a “caller” GMT, where the second time zone you are tracking is displayed on the 24-hour hand and can be jumped around depending on what time zone you want to track. Unlike high-end travelers watch, the SSK GMT isn’t equipped with a local time jumping function. The first position of the crown actually adjusts the 24-hour hand independently. With the addition of the bezel scale, in theory, the SSK is able to track three time zones.

After having it on the wrist for some time, I do have one suggestion that could make the more even more awesome. Apart from increasing the water rating to 200 meters (with screw-down crown) and ratcheting uni-directional bezel, replacing the flat Hardlex crystal to either a dome or boxed shaped would increased the SSK's looks. The second is including a quick change lug bars for the bracelet. This would make it easier for owners to mix-and-match different types of straps to individualize the watch further.

In conclusion, I would buy this watch because of the new movement. Honestly, I cannot put this watch in the same family of the iconic SKX. It looks the same but it does not mimic the principle characteristic of the SKX: it is not an ISO6425 certified dive watch.

 

 

 

The Buying Experience

Due to the overwhelming demand for the watch, I could not get a discount from my dealer. I suppose eventually, people will get smarter and realized that the SSK is not a progeny of the iconic SKX.

 

 

SSK003 Versus SKX007

 

I believe a lot of you may want to know what are the difference between the two. Below is a table of differences.

Comparison	SSK003K1	SKX007KD
Height	13.6 mm	13.3 mm
Functionality	GMT	Day
Cyclops Magnifier	Yes	No
Pass-through Lug Holes	Yes	No
Display Case-Back	Yes	No
ISO6425	No	Yes
Water Rating	100 meters	200 meters
Screw-Down Crown	No	Yes
Movement	4R34	7S26
Bezel	24-hour &bi-directional	Dive timer & uni-directional

Specifications 

Material: Stainless steel 

Crystal: Hardlex with cyclops lens over the date aperture 

Strap: Jubilee-style bracelet with three-fold clasp, push button release and safety latch 

Case-Back: Screw-down with display window 

Feature: Rotating bezel with Hardlex insert 

Diameter: 42.5 mm 

Length: 46.0 mm 

Height: 13.6 mm 

Lug Width: 22.0 mm 

Weight: 161 gm 

Water Rating: 100 meters 

Movement: 4R34 

Type: Automatic with date, GMT, hacking, manual winding 

Jewel: 24 

Frequency: 21,600 BPH

Power Reserve: Approximately 41 hours 

Accuracy: Between +45 / -35 seconds per day

MSRP: RM2,155 

Availability: July 2022 

Purchase Date: 15 July 2022

Vendor: AWG, Mid Valley Megamall 

Purchase Price: RM2,155

Serial Number: 529290

Warranty: 1 year

Manual for the 4R34

Photo Gallery

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