Pages

Sunday, September 15, 2024

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with White Lacquered Dial 42 mm Steel-on-Steel Reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 - A Story of Space Exploration, of Craftsmanship, and of Timeless Style, A Review (plus Video)

I finally got my Moonwatch. On hindsight, it was lucky for me to have waited this long to get my hands on a Moonwatch Professional. Due to the long wait, this beauty, the Moonwatch with lacquered white dial became part of the repertoire of Omega and hence gave me more options.

My journey in ownership of the Moonwatch Professional had a number of detours which made this acquisition a long time in coming. Prior to this purchase, I was able to get the Speedmaster Reduce and later the Speedmaster Mark II. I though I will be satisfied with these two but in actual fact it fueled my demand further. The Moonwatch Professional is a mechanical winding watch whereas the Reduce and the Mark II are not.
 
When the watch was made available in March 2024, I was interested due to the white dial. I love white dial watches and I have quite a number in my collection. It will take sometime before units be made available for Malaysia. My trusty dealer at the Omega Boutique was keeping an eye out for me and when a unit became available, she immediate informed me.

Unfortunately, Omega Boutiques in Malaysia can no longer offer discounts. I had to purchase the watch at retail price. Nonetheless, my dealer did compensate me with gifts to sweeten the deal.
Short History

In 1965, Omega created a robust chronograph that would be waterproof, easy to read, easy to use and exceedingly precise. Thus, the Speedmaster was launched and became notable for being the first watch in the world to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel. It was powered by the Calibre 321, a column-wheel movement. When it was made, the Speedmaster was deemed as a racing watch.


In 1963, at the end of NASA's Project Mercury, astronauts approached Deke Slayton (the Operations Director), and asked to be issued with a reliable watch for their manned missions. Slayton then issued a request for “high-quality chronographs” in 1964 and forwarded it to different watch manufacturers around the world. Only four responded, including Omega, who sent a delivery of third generation Speedmaster chronographs (the Reference 105.003). These were tested under the extreme conditions such as thermal, shock, vibration and vacuum tests. Only the OMEGA Speedmaster survived those tests and on 1 March 1965, it was declared “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions”. The Speedmaster officially went into space for the first time on the wrists of Virgil “Gus” Grissom and John Young during the Gemini 3 mission three weeks later.

 
It was the fourth generation of the Speedmaster that cement the design and styling that is the Moonwatch. It was the first Speedmaster with an asymmetrical case with twisted lugs, to provide added protection for the crown and pushers. For the first time, the word “Professional” was also printed on the dial. These Reference 105.012 and Reference 145.012 models were the very watches worn by Apollo 11 astronauts Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin when they stepped onto the lunar surface for the first time in human history on 16 July 1969.

In 2024, 55 years after that momentous event, Omega continues to produce the Moonwatch. Below is a short introduction of the watch as found on the Omega website; "The Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the world’s most iconic timepieces. Having been a part of all six moon landings, the legendary chronograph is an impressive representation of the brand’s adventurous pioneering spirit.

Presented on a polished-brushed bracelet, this 42 mm Moonwatch in stainless steel features sapphire crystal glass on the front as well as on the caseback. Inspired by the 4th generation Speedmaster style worn on the moon, it also includes an asymmetrical case, a white lacquered step dial with applied OMEGA logo and indexes, Moonwatch style hands, and the famous dot over 90 on the black anodised aluminium bezel ring.

The watch is driven by the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, which powers the small seconds sub-dial, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, along with the central chronograph function."

Buzz Aldrin wearing an Omega Speedmaster during Apollo 11

Truth be told, this particular reference, the 310.30.42.50.04.001 is nothing different than the series of Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional on Omega's lineup, except for the lacquered white dial. First seen on Daniel Craig's wrist at the Planet Omega exhibition in New York last November, fans were buzzing on some type of white-dial Speedy being released soon. The biggest question yet to be answered then was whether it would be a special edition paired with an exotic or precious material. That question was answered and to the surprise and joy of Speedy fans, it is a standard offering.

From a design perspective, the new Speedmaster Professional White Dial is largely identical to the current series of steel models launched in 2021 that marked the transition to Co-Axial calibers. The new white lacquer dial version is exclusively offered in the modern “sapphire sandwich” configuration (this is the terminology used by collectors to describe a watch with sapphire crystals both on the front and back).

The Series

As at May 2024, there are 17 models under the series. These can be categorized into five sub-groups. These are as follows:
 
1. Stainless Steel Lacquered White Dial Version
The is the latest sub-grouping.
The white lacquer dial sub-
series. Stainless steel casing.

With stainless steel bracelet
MSRP: RM38,700

With rubber strap
MSRP: RM37,050

With racing leather strap
MSRP: RM37,050

2. Stainless Steel Standard Version

With stainless steel bracelet
Haselite crystal & solid back
MSRP: RM33,250

With nylon fabric strap
Haselite crystal & solid back
MSRP: RM31,600

With stainless steel bracelet
Sapphire & display back
MSRP: RM38,150

With leather strap
Sapphire & display back
MSRP: RM36,500

3. Sedna™ Gold Version
This is the 18K Sedna™ gold
features sapphire crystal
glass on the front as well as
on the case-back

With Sedna™ bracelet
Dial: Black
MSRP: RM203,850

With leather strap
Dial: Black
MSRP: RM144,450

Sedna™ bracelet & diamond
Dial: Brown
MSRP: RM230,000

4. Moonshine™ gold Version
Moonshine™ gold bracelet
Dial: Green
MSRP: RM203,850

Leather strap
Dial: Green
MSRP: RM144,450

Moonshine™ gold bracelet
Dial: Yellow
MSRP: RM214,200

Rubber strap
Dial: Yellow
MSRP: RM154,800

5. Canopus Gold™ with Silver Dial Version
This 18K Canopus Gold™
features sapphire crystal
glass on the front as well as on
the case-back. This is the most
expensive sub-series.

Canopus Gold™ bracelet
Dial: Silver
MSRP: RM265,400

Leather strap
Dial: Silver
MSRP: RM177,650

Canopus Gold™ & diamonds
Dial: Silver
MSRP: RM287,750

Collectors generally go for the stainless steel versions.


The Watch

The case of the Moonwatch is made from 316L stainless steel with a brushed and polished finish. Measuring 42.0 mm in diameter with a height of 13.2 mm thick, it has a lug width of 20.0 mm and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 47.5 mm. With an approximate weight of 140 gm, the watch fits well on my 6.75 inch wrist.
 
Legibility is excellent, with the black hands and indices providing sharp contrast against the white background. The chronograph functions are easy to read, and the tachymeter scale on the black bezel remains as functional as ever, with the white dial giving it a fresh, more refined look. The sapphire crystal, with its anti-reflective treatment, ensures that the dial remains clear and easy to view even under bright conditions.
 

 
Omega states that the white and black colorway is primarily inspired by astronaut spacesuits, while the red text is a nod to the red lines that appear on the suits to signify the commander’s rank. I am skeptical on this assertion as the brand had other white-dial Speedmaster Professional models in the past and never mentioned this connection before. Also, Omega stated that the white and red details also relived  the colors of the Alaska project prototype. On this second assertion, what is red and unique about the Alaska project prototype is the giant bright red protective case intended to shield the watch during EVA activities. There is definitely no 'protective case' for this new watch. Nonetheless, who am I to say otherwise anyway (😅).
 

 
Omega's new release is a first for a regular Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in steel to come with a glossy lacquer white dial. While the original Omega Speedmaster black dial with white hands were chosen for maximum legibility, this new combination also does the same. The lacquered dial looks fresh, with the step-down to the minute track and the circular texture in the sub-dials easily visible. It creates the depth and detail that the white-dial Speedy needs. The watch features black hands, markers and logo, while both "Speedmaster" and the tip of the chronograph hand are in red, giving a pop of colors to the dial. This combination was perfectly done, contrasting the dial with diamond-polished black PVD hands and markers treated with green Super-LumiNova. Not only do these elements contrast nicely with the dial, but they also correspond with the black bezel perfectly. With these elements, the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has the visual brilliance it needed to fulfilled its design purpose.  
 

 
Just as the “sapphire sandwich” nickname suggests, a pair of sapphire crystals are fitted to both the dial side of the watch and its screw-down case-back. Additionally, similar to the other models from this latest generation of the classic manual-wind Speedmaster, the new white lacquered dial version receives a black tachymeter bezel with an anodized aluminum insert that features the fan-favorite style of “Dot Over Ninety” markings that can be found on vintage Speedmaster references. 
 

 
Like the other models in the series, the water resistance comes in at the standard depth rating of 50 meters. This is rather disappointing to me as current manufacturing standards using latest CNC machinery could easily improved the water rating to triple digits. Even Seiko 5 Sports models could achieve at least 100 meters water rating with push-in/pull-out crown systems in place. Nonetheless, the water rating is also tested by METAS (50 meters +10% margin) under the Master Chronometer certification. This is important as it meant that it is water proofed at that depth. Hence, you can swim with the current Moonwatch with confidence.

 
This watch is powered by the Omega’s Co-Axial Caliber 3861 manual-wind movement, which runs at a frequency of 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertz with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. It is also important to note that the Caliber 3861 is one of the brand’s Master Chronometers, which means that it is resistant to magnetic forces in excess of 15,000 Gauss and guaranteed to keep time within -0/+5 seconds per day; plus, you get the benefit of hacking seconds, which was something that the classic manual-wind Moonwatch lacked until just a few years ago. 
 
The Caliber 3861 is a joy to interact with. The winding experience is smooth and satisfying, a reminder of the craftsmanship and engineering excellence that goes into each Speedmaster. The movement's Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification give you confidence in its accuracy and reliability.
 


The watch is paired with a bracelet with a more dramatic taper, from 20.0 mm at the lugs to 15.0 mm at the clasp. The clasp now comes with an easy-extension system. This eliminates the need to have micro-adjustment points on the clasp as the same outcome could also be had by just pushing the button (see below) and adjusting the fit at anytime without the need of any tool.
 

  
Below is a photo taken in the dark showing the green Super-LumiNova luminous paint in action. More than sufficient to refer to the time.
 
http://

The Wearing Experience

The Omega Speedmaster Professional White dial is a great addition to the Moonwatch family. As a standard model, it offers an alternative to the classic black-dial models. As I love white dial watches, this model fits well with my other white dial themed watches such as Omega Ultra Deep Planet Ocean White, Rolex Explorer II White, Rolex Daytona White, Zenith El Primero A384 White and Grand Seiko Snowflake among others.
 
Although some white dials have a certain hardness, especially when the dial is one large, flat surface, the lacquered step dial of this new Moonwatch is very pleasing, and it has a tapered softness to it.  

On my 6.75 inch wrist, the watch wears well (see video below). The overall design, with its sleek lines and impeccable finishing, provides a versatile look that transitions effortlessly from casual settings to more formal occasions. Whether you're a space enthusiast or a connoisseur of fine timepieces, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial delivers a refined and satisfying wearing experience that celebrates both its storied heritage and modern craftsmanship. Personally, I find the white dial does create an illusion of 'size' unlike the black dial version. Nonetheless, the dimensions of the two version are the same.

 
Wearing the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is an experience that blends classic horological heritage with a refreshing contemporary twist. As soon as you strap it on, the watch feels substantial yet comfortable on the wrist, thanks to its well-balanced 42mm case and the iconic stainless steel bracelet. The weight gives it a reassuring presence, reminding you that you're wearing a piece of history.
 
One of the highlights of wearing this Moonwatch is the way it transitions seamlessly from casual to formal settings. The white dial adds a level of versatility that makes it suitable for a wide range of outfits and occasions. Whether you're dressed in a suit for a formal event or in jeans and a t-shirt for a relaxed day out, the watch never feels out of place.
 
Overall, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional offers a unique wearing experience that honors the storied legacy of the Moonwatch while providing a fresh, modern aesthetic. It’s a timepiece that not only tells the time but also tells a story—a story of space exploration, of craftsmanship, and of timeless style.
 
The Buying Experience

I got this watch from the Omega Boutique from Gardens Mall. Unfortunately, the brand has instituted a no-discount policy for most of its watches. To compensate, I was given a number of items unique to the brand. Before that, I would like to highlight the packaging one gets from buying a Speedmaster.


For the size of the watch, the packaging is rather big. The primary watch-box has that old-school satchel design in black cloth covering. Apart from the typical manual, the packaging also include a picture book regarding the history of the Speedmaster.


Thumbs up to Omega to make the effort to make something extra for the owners.


I was also given an Omega 'Trident' wrist bracelet. To be honest, this would be more appropriate if I bought a Seamaster.



I truly enjoyed my experience at the boutique.

Specifications

Reference: 310.30.42.50.04.001
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Width: 42.0 mm
Thickness: 13.2 mm
Lug-to-Lug Length: 47.5 mm
Lug Width: 20.0 mm
Weight: Approximately 140 gm
Dial: Lacquered white gloss stepped dial
Crystal: Domed, scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment inside
Water Resistance: 50 meters (5 bars / 167 feet)
Calibre: Omega 3861
Frequency: 3 hertz (21,600 BPH)
Jewels: 26
Magnetic Resistance:  Up to 15,000 gauss
Movement Type: Manual-winding chronograph movement with Co-Axial escapement; certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS; free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring; rhodium-plated finish, bridges with straight Geneva waves
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Clasp: Foldover with comfort setting
Features: Anti-magnetic, chronograph, chronometer, master chronometer certified, small seconds tachymeter, transparent case-back 
MSRP: RM38,700
Purchase Date: 10 May 2024
Vendor: Omega Boutique, Gardens Mall
Warranty: five (5) years
Serial Number: 84161852


Photo Gallery
 



http://http://

No comments:

Post a Comment