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Sunday, July 17, 2022

Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Blue Dial Reference T137.427.11.041.00 (similar to White Dial T137.427.11.011.00) - Pressed All The Right Buttons, A Review (plus Video)

When Tissot announced the launch of the Chronograph PRX in March 2022, I was elated. I already got the PRX automatic and it worth the investment. Adding a mechanical chronograph function in the PRX line is just icing to the cake. I really want to get one. After making a few inquiries in Kuala Lumpur, I was told that the model will be released to dealers in August at a MSRP of RM7,400.

As it happens, I was scheduled to go for a trip to UK in mid-June. Tissot announced that the model will be released in the UK around the same time. Although I wasn’t hoping to find one, luck was with me on this. I found one in a UK jewellery chain in Dundee (actually, it’s branch in Inverness got one so they had it shipped to the Dundee branch for me). After a few days I finally got my hands on one. 

Do note that the price I paid for this watch is higher than the list price in Kuala Lumpur after taking into consideration foreign exchange conversion from GBP to RM. Nevertheless, I am willing to pay the premium just to have the experience dealing with a Scottish jeweler for the very first time.

The PRX Chronograph Series

The PRX line is the child of the 1970s. Back in 1978, Tissot launched its Seastar watch which showcased a distinctive integrated architecture. This was the progeny of the PRX which stands for Precise, Robust and X bars of water resistance which in this case serves as the Roman numeral for 10.

There are two models currently in the series. The blue dial version has the reference T1374271104100 while the white dial version has the reference T1374271101100. Both are standard production model priced the same at a MSRP of GBP1,500 or RM7,400.
     

Reference: T1374271101100

Reference:T1374271104100

Interestingly, the sharp global fluctuation of foreign currency exchange rates due to the Ukraine crisis has created some arbitrage opportunities. At the date of purchase (28 June 2022, GBP1,500 was equivalent RM8,349.95). As I did not get any discount from the Scottish dealer (Tissot UK strictly controls the selling price), assuming the same strategy also from Tissot Malaysia, one can theoretically buy in KL and sell it for a nice profit in the UK. The only other difference is that UK's launch date is July 2022 whereas Malaysia's launch date is August 2022. 

To be honest, I would have preferred the white dial version but since I already owned the blue PRX automatic (please click here to read the review on that watch), getting the blue version makes more sense.




The Watch

The stainless steel case has that vintage design with tonneau shape and multiple polished and brushed surfaces. The diameter of the watch is 42.0 mm while the bezel diameter measures 39.0 mm. The real lug-to-lug measurement is 46.5 mm and not 41.5 mm as stated in the specification sheet (it appears Tissot measures the end of the lugs to be where the flat surface ends and not where the lugs actually ends). As the case needs more space for the chronograph module, the thickness of the watch is 14.5 mm, thicker than the standard automatic PRX. Overall weight is a chunky 184 gm which may be a deal breaker for some of you. Personally, I have no issue as I like heavy watches anyway.


The model I got is the vertically brushed blue dial with silver sub-dials. The tri-compax design creates a symmetry to the dial. Although I can appreciate the date aperture at 4:30, as the base colour of the dial is blue, it would be nice if Tissot used a date wheel with a blue background instead of white. This would help minimise any visual disruption. Despite the choice made by the designers, the date aperture did not disturb the balance of the dial that much.

At the periphery of the dial in a minute scale in silver with black lines. The three sub-dials also have various silver scales at their own individual peripheries. The sub-dials arrangement are as follows; at 3:00 is the chronograph 30-minute counter; at 6:00 is the chronograph 12-hour counter; and at 9:00 is the sub-seconds. All three sub-dials used the style silver polished hands. In addition, Tissot decided to print the series name ‘PRX’ on the 6:00 sub-dial.

The hour markers are applied silver indices with SuperLuminova inserts and silver hour and minute baton hands also with SuperLuminova inserts. The thin silver foil-like chronograph seconds hand is without any luminous inserts. Meanwhile, the brand logo is printed on the upper quadrant while on the bottom quadrant, in smaller font, are the words, ‘SWISS MADE’. 

 
Surrounding the dial is a thick sloping fixed bezel where the flat sapphire crystal sits. The crystal has AR coating and placed just slightly above the edge of the bezel. Personally, I would have preferred a domed crystal instead as it will enhanced its elegance further. 

The crown is located at 3:00 and is signed with the letter ‘T’. The push-in and pull-out crown helps adjust the time and can be manually wound. To adjust the date, a micro-pusher at 10:00 is provided. Meanwhile, flat rectangular pushers at 2:00 and 4:00 blend in nicely to the shape of the watch casing.

The case-back is a friction fit plate and has a sapphire crystal window to see the internals. Some key information about the watch are also stamped on it. The overall construction is water rated to 10 ATM or 100 meters which relates to the ‘X’ in PRX.
 


The engine of the watch is the chronograph is the automatic Valjoux A05.H31 (or otherwise known as ETA A05.H31). This calibre is basedon the older Valjoux 7753. I have experienced in owning this calibre as it also powers my Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph (please click here to read about that watch). It has 27 jewels, beats at 28,800 BPH (or 4 Hertz) with a 60-hour power reserve. Fundamentally, it is a cam-actuated chronograph. Functions include central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, small seconds and date. The movement is decorated with perlage and features a custom open-worked rotor in black. The calibre only winds the mainspring when rotating in one direction. Turning in the other direction results in a free spin, causing the famous Valjoux wobble. The only negative comment I have is the micro-pusher at 10:00 needed to adjust the date. I suppose this weak design reduces the complexity of the calibre and hence the affordable pricing.

The bracelet on the watch is integrated with the case is connected via a 13 mm wide end-piece. Surprisingly, Tissot’s designers added a quick release mechanism to the bracelet. This would suggest Tissot will make available different types of bracelets and straps as after-market options for owners. The bracelet tapers somewhat from a width of 28 mm at the lugs to 18 mm at the butterfly clasp with two release buttons. The bracelet has no micro-adjustment points but is provided with a couple of half links for resizing. 

The illumination on the watch is sufficient. Could have been better but I suppose for the purpose it was designed, it is acceptable. Below is a photo of the illumination on the watch in the dark.
 


The Wearing Experience 

Visually, the PRX Automatic Chronograph is a beauty. It has that evergreen shape that is iconic. Nevertheless, from a design perspective, there are a couple of this that I would like to suggest as an alternative.
 


The first is the date complication. Instead of a date wheel with a white background, a blue background would be better suited for the model I got (with the numbers printed in white). This helps reduce the break in symmetry of the dial. The silver dial model perfectly illustrate the ‘minimising’ effect of having the background colour of the date wheel to be similar to the dial colour.

The second is the choice of calibre for the watch. Tissot should have chosen a chronograph calibre that can adjust the date complication directly from the crown instead of needing to use an external micro-pusher. I suppose it will be an additional cost to the overall production, the buyers will not mind as the base price is already relatively high for a Tissot anyway.

The third is the dial colour option. Instead of just two, having other colours straight for the gate would be more appealing from a market perspective. A black or green dial version would not be difficult to do as these colours are generally common in most series of watches under the Tissot line.

Despite the three suggestions highlighted above, these are not deal-breakers for me. The watch pushed practically all the right buttons. The shape, the size and the historical context make for an effective and sought after timepiece. Some may comment negatively the height of the watch or even the weight, but overall, it has balance.

The Buying Experience 

This is the first watch that I bought from a high street jewellers in UK. I bought it from Chisholm Hunter of Dundee, Scotland. To be honest I have ordered one from my KL dealer. However, the allocation for Malaysia will only be delivered in August. I decided to get one in Dundee despite the high probability of paying more for it. Anyway, it will be a first for me and I just like to find out the experience of buying one from a UK dealer.
 


Similar to Malaysia, all the stocks are tracked online. The shop I went did not have one but it’s sister shop in Inverness has one. They made arrangement for the watch to be shipped to the Dundee branch for me to have a look. However, in return, I had to put a GBP250 deposit. 

Had a great experience at the jewelers. Very professional, helpful and friendly. I did not get a store discount but I suppose as this was my first purchase through them, I should be hopeful if there are future purchases.




Specifications 

Collection: T-Classic
Series: PRX Automatic Chronograph 
Reference: SKU T1374271101100
Case Shape: Tonneau 
Case Material: 316L stainless steel 
Width: 42.0 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Length: 41.5 mm (as measured 46.5 mm)
Lugs: 13.0 mm
Case-Back: See-through window
Crystal: Sapphire with AR coating 
Illumination: SuperLuminova luminous paint
Weight: 184 gm
Dial Colour: Blue
Movement: Automatic Valjoux A05.H31
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 4 Hertz
Power Reserve: Up to 60 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes hands, date, central 60-seconds chronograph hand, 30 minutes chronograph and 12 hour chronograph sub-dials, 60 seconds sun-dial
Water Resistance: 10 bars (100 meters/330 ft)
Strap Reference: T605047903
Strap Material: 316L stainless steel
Buckle: Interchangeable quick release bracelet, butterfly clasp with push-buttons
Warranty: Two years
MSRP: GBP1,500, RM7,400
Purchase Date: 28 June 2022
Vendor: Chisholm Hunter, Dundee, Scotland
Purchase Price: RM8,349.95

Photo Gallery 



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1 comment:

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