Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial Reference T1374071104100 (Similar to T1374071105100, T1374072103100 & T9314074129100) - Value for Money Classic Design, A Review (plus Video)

For 2021, Tissot released two types of PRX, a quartz version first and a later, an automatic version. There are a number of examples in each of the two categories. I personally had my eyes on the automatic version but it took me a long time before I got my hands on one. Even when I did get one, there wasn't any discount given from the MSRP price.

There are four models to choose from. What I got was the blue dial version.

The retro styling of the watch and the integrated bracelet design caught my interest. The PRX is a watch inspired by the original model first launched in 1978. It features a tonneau-shaped case with an integrated bracelet that was the rage back then. It has a circular bezel mirror-polish to contrast against the brush finishing on the case itself. To me, visually, the PRX is a really interesting piece.

I am not the only one that thinks this watch is a keeper. For the Malaysian market, it was a sellout and I had to put in an order for the next batch earmarked for this region.

The Series

There are four members of the PRX automatic series. PRX is an acronym that Tissot registered where “PR” stands for Precise and Robust, while “X”, in Roman numerals, stands for the 10 atmospheres of water-resistant i.e. equivalent to 100 meters of water.

The two standard versions are the blue dial (left) and the black dial (right). Both are listed at RM2,800 on Tissot's Malaysian website. 

The next model has a silver dial and a rose gold PVD coating for the bezel. This is slightly expensive with a MSRP of RM2,900 on Tissot Malaysian website. 

The final model has a graded brown-black dial and a 18K rose gold fluted bezel. This model is not found on Tissot's Malaysian website but can be found on the US website. This model is priced at USD1,850.

It has been said that the PRX is a homage to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Although the basic shape and the waffle-textured dial are similar, I believe the PRX has its own unique DNA.

The Watch

The PRX is made out of 316L stainless steel with brushed surfaces. Having a tonneau-shaped casing is rather retro and is rather fetching and stylish. Coupled with the round fixed bezel that is polished, the contrast between the various shapes and angles as well as surface textures belies the actual price point of this watch. 

Officially, the width of the watch is quoted to be 40.0 mm while the length is 39.5 mm. Meanwhile, its height is quoted to be 10.9 mm. However, when I used my caliper to measure, I got a different reading. Based on my measurement, the length should be 44.5 mm with a height of 11.3 mm. Total weight (with all links present) is 138 gm.

The blue dial has a waffle-like texture. From what I can observed, the five lines of texts are also applied on the textured surface of the dial.

The applied hour markers has SuperLuminova luminous paint. Although the date aperture is located at 3:00, the designers of the watch only truncated a portion of the 3:00 marker instead of replacing it outright. This is smart of them as it would mean that area will still be illuminated in the dark as the truncated hour marker has SuperLuminova luminous paint on it as well. Meanwhile, the date aperture is surrounded with a polished metal frame. Tissot decided to use a black on a white background date wheel. I personally would go the other way. The whiteness of the date aperture is too distracting in my opinion.

The handset is a simple straight sword design with SuperLuminova luminous paint on the hours and minutes hands. The seconds hand is polished to a mirror finish without any luminous paint.

Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. As you can see from the photo above, the crystal is set slightly above the fixed bezel. Although it makes for stunning visual in the sunlight, it does increase the chance of a side impact damage to the crystal.

The crown in located at 3:00. It is signed with the logo "T" and uses a push-in/pull-out system to engage the gears. There are three positions; the safe position allows you to manually wind the watch; the first stage will allow you to reset the date wheel; and the second stage will allow you to adjust the time with a seconds hand stop mechanism engaged.

The integrated bracelet design of this watch is its call-to-fame. From the first link, the bracelet is approximately 27.5 mm wide which then tapers to just 18.00 mm wide at the clasps. Because the watch uses a butterfly clasp, resizing the watch could be an issue with some people (there is no micro adjustment points provided). Nevertheless, the bracelet does have a couple of micro-links to help in adjusting the bracelet.

 

It is also interesting to note that the bracelet comes standard with quick-release lug bars (see below). This would imply that Tissot has plans to offer replacement bracelets or straps. Due to the uniqueness of the integrated bracelet design, it is close to impossible to find aftermarket bracelets or straps from other manufacturers. The fact that Tissot provide this quick-release option does imply the brand may be looking at offering alternatives on the bracelet or straps in the near future.  

The watch has a display case-back protected by another sapphire crystal plate. Through the crystal, you can see the Powermatic 80 movement with reference number 80.111. This caliber has 80 hours of power reserve and operate at a slower speed of 3 Hz or 21,600 BPH. Despite the price point of this watch, Tissot took the time to dressed up the rotor with some graphics.

In the dark, the SuperLuminova luminous paint does its job. Although not as bright as I would like it to be, it is adequate. The decision not to totally sacrifice the 3:00 hour marker is telling in the photo below as there are no dark areas on the watch to disrupt the symmetry.

The overall construction of the PRX allows it to withstand a water rating of 100 meters.

The Wearing Experience

The PRX fits the bill for an elegant looking dress watch. The integrated bracelet and the sharp tapering of the bracelet width down to the clasps are very retro and visually pleasing to the eye. It is because of this, the PRX is a very sought after timepiece where dealers are only selling it at listed price with no discounts (in Malaysia definitely).

Earlier I said the PRX has its own unique DNA and is not a homage to the Audemars Piquet Royal Oak. Although my view on this has not changed, I can see why a lot of people have differing views on this. This linkage, however tenuous, definitely affected the demand for the watch which I suppose Tissot is not complaining.  

The choice of the waffle-like texture of the dial when AP's Royal Oak has the tapisserie dial design which happens to be similar is intriguing. The quartz PRX did not have the waffle-like pattern but when Tissot launched the automatic series, this pattern was added. Did Tissot knowingly wanted to piggyback on the interest of the Royal Oak to bumped up sales? An interesting proposition.

Overall, a value for money timepiece. The utility that you get from the price that you pay is worth it. The whole design is evergreen and is a testament to the iconic nature of the integrated bracelet styling.

The Unboxing

I like the Tissot watch-box. The white sleeve has all the previous logos of Tissot which is worth exploring.

 

Specifications

Reference: T1374071104100
Weight: 138 gm
Collection: T-Classic
Water Resistance: Up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft)
Warranty: 2 years 
Thickness: 10.9 mm (as measured: 11.3 mm)
Case Shape: Tonneau

Case-Back: See-through
Length: 39.50 mm (as measured: 44.5 mm)
Width: 40.00 mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel case
Lugs: 12.00 mm
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Movement: Swiss automatic

Model: POWERMATIC 80.111
Jewels: 23

Frequency: 3 Hertz or 21,600 BPH
Dial Functions: HMSD
Power Reserve: Up to 80 hours
Technology: Patented Nivachron balance spring

Dial Color: Blue

Bracelet Reference: T605046447
Strap Material: Stainless steel
Buckle: Interchangeable quick release bracelet, butterfly clasp with push-buttons

MSRP: RM2,800

Purchase Date: 16 December 2021

Purchase Price: RM2,800

Vendor: AWG, Mid Valley

Serial Number: T137407A

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