My Eastern Watch Collection: Citizen Promaster Marine BN0220-16E Eco-Drive Diver Super Titanium 200 meters (similar to BN0227-09L & BN0228-06W) - A Unique Designed Beater Watch, A Review (plus Video)

In March 2021, Citizen announced a launch of three new set Eco-Drive powered marine models under the Promaster line. These 200 meter dive watches have design features similar to the legendary Citizen 1,300 meter Professional Diver watch of 1982; a watch with the deepest depth rating at that time.

Honestly, I was intrigued by the shape of the casing. The lug free design and the four very distinctive bezel guards gives the watch a visual perception of toughness as well as uniqueness. Despite the bulk, the weight is deceivingly light due to the use to titanium which I am fond of.

There are three models to choose from. I decided on the BN0220-16E (BN0220 for short) as this model closely resembles the 1982 icon. Although this model is available from a local vendor, I decided to go through my favourite Japanese vendor, SeiyaJapan.

After taking into consideration the importation fees etc., the watch still turned out to be cheaper than getting it from a local vendor.

I did not have to wait long. The courier was very efficient, settling all the import taxes quickly and delivering the watch to me within 72 hours after making the order.

The Historical Link

In 1982, Citizen raised the bar on professional dive watches. The launch of Citizen Professional 1,300 meter Diver watch became a new benchmark. Using titanium as the base material, the watch was rust and corrosion resistant, a major advantage especially in a marine environment.

The updated modern offering by Citizen is generally similar in shape only. There are a number of major differences when compared to the iconic 1982 model. Some of the differences are as follows:

Icon versus Re-imagine:

Battery powered quartz module (Caliber 1251) versus solar powered Eco-Drive module (Caliber E168)
Day and date complication versus date complication only
Crown location at 9:00 versus crown location at 3:00
Two piece construction on the watch casing (excluding the caseback plate) versus single piece construction on the watch casing (excluding the caseback plate)
1,300 meter water rating versus 200 meter water rating

Considering the technological advancement today, the changes highlighted are expected.

The Series

The are three models for this series. From left to right, the BN0220-16E (black dial), the BN0227-09L (blue camouflage dial) and the BN0228-06W (green camouflage dial).

All three models are made out of Citizen's proprietary titanium alloy, the Super Titanium™ (Duratect MRK). For the second and third models, the surfaces haves been painted using an additional Duratect DLC process to add the additional film of colour.

The MSRP for each of the three models is USD525. The partial proceed of the sale price for BN0227-09L and BN0228-06W has been earmarked to support the marine conservation activities of Conservation International, an international NGO that Citizen is supporting.

The Watch

The BN0220 looks the part of a serious tool watch. Made out of the Super Titanium™ (Duratect MRK) titanium alloy, the casing has various widths depending where it is measured. Just the casing only (without the fairing and crown) it is 46.5 mm. Fairing-to-fairing width is 53.5 mm, and width with crown is 50.0 mm. Due to the hidden lug design, the width is also the length of the watch. Meanwhile, its thickness is 14.3 mm. Overall, a sizable watch. Nevertheless, it is wearable due to the hidden lug design.

The casing is well rounded with no sharp edges. The surface has that brushed look. Coupled with the 'titanium oxide' colour for the surface, this watch is definitely looks like a professional dive watch. Moreover, the Duratect alloy added that important strength to the metal surface to reduce the likelihood of scratches.

Compared to many other dive watches, the area of the dial only has an effective width of just 29.5 mm. If we take the official width of the watch, only 40.2% of the area is allocated to the dial. As a comparison, the Citizen Promaster NY0040 (click here to for the full review on this watch) has 52.3% of the surface allocated to the dial. Having less than half of the surface area allocated to the dial does make it look bulky and unwieldy.

The dial is painted black. Looking close on the surface of the dial, there appear to be speckles of gold dust embedded with the black paint. This textural subtlety blends nicely with the various shapes of applied hour markers with golden framing. Meanwhile, a secondary minute scale is located on the sloping chapter ring also painted with a golden colour.

A small aperture is cut through the dial at 3:00 to display the date wheel. Rather than completely replacing the hour marker, it has been truncated instead. To balance the partial loss of the hour marker, the date wheel has a white background to provide the necessary contract against the dial surface.

There are five lines of texts and logo on the dial. On the the upper quadrant is the brand while the rest are on the bottom quadrant. The notation on the dial follows the current Citizen practice which is different on the 1982 model. Some people have suggested that Citizen should have just followed the original notation on the dial. I don't think this suggestion is feasible as the BN0220 is not a reissue of the 1982 icon but an updated modern reinterpretation. As such, differences are and should be expected.

The hands on the BN0220 are broad to make it easier to see. Like the hour markers, the thickset hands are also painted with luminous paint and framed with a golden colour.

Protecting the dial is a flat mineral glass. The window is set slightly below the bezel surface to offer some degree of protection against impact damage. It does not appear that the glass has any anti-reflective coating on it.

Unlike the iconic 1982 model, the BN0220 has its screw-down crown located at 3:00. The crown is heavily knurled for grip with the Promaster logo on the top surface. Once disengaged from the lock-down position, the crown will have three positions. The first is neutral, the second adjust the date and the third adjust the time.

The eye-candy about this watch is definitely the bezel and the corresponding four bezel guards or protection slants. The bezel has a slopping side where the gear-tooth part sits and pointing upwards instead of outwards. Definitely gives users a good grip on the bezel. The bezel is unidirectional and it takes 60-clicks for a complete rotation. I believe the bezel insert is aluminum and the markers and numbers are etched into the surface and coloured with the same golden paint. As required of a professional dive watch, a luminous pip is added at 12:00.

Note the rounded surfaces everywhere on the watch. I really like this feature.

The case back is rather plain with no graphics or etching. Key information about the watch is printed on the screw-down case-back plate.

Underneath this plate is the E168 Eco-Drive solar powered module. This caliber has an accuracy of between +15 seconds per month and -15 seconds per month. It has a power reserve of 6 months with low-power indicator to warn users (the second hands start to jump a few seconds repeatedly).

In the photo above, you can see where the lugs are located. The lugs on the BN0220 is 24 mm across. Standard pairing with the watch is a black polyurethane strap that tapers down to 20 mm at the end.

The strap is a heavy-duty kind, thick with some bendy sections to provide spring tension.

The signed buckle is also substantial but because it is also made out of titanium, the whole package (watch and strap) only tip the scale at 88 gm.

Professional dive watches typical have some form of 'extension' mechanism if it comes with a bracelet. Those that come with a strap, the strap is generally longer than usual so that one can wear it over a wet suit. For nylon-based strap, this is easier to handle as it is not difficult to fold-over the excess strap on itself. For a thick rubber or polyurethane strap, this styling may not be possible.

To provide that extension flexibility, Citizen included a slip-on strap that you can attached to the buckle (see above). It has an extra buckle that can act like an extender. Although not as elegant as a built-in extension mechanism (since it comes in two separate parts), Citizen does provide that option as part of the standard package.

As highlighted earlier, Citizen painted the hour markers, hands and bezel pip with luminous paint. As shown in the photo above, the illumination of the BN0220 is bright and last for some time.

The watch casing has been manufactured to follow the JIS Class 1 Diver's Watch standard and the ISO6425 standard. It has a water rating of 200 meters. Others have commented that Citizen should have designed it to go down to at least 1,300 meters like the iconic 1982 model. I can support that suggestion but will I be willing to pay the price? The current MSRP of USD525 is just a nice spot for something that is capable to do a lot of stuff.

The Wearing Experience

The bezel protection slants makes it look more like a square watch than a round one. Nevertheless, the hidden lug design on the watch makes it wearable (I got a 6.75 inch wrist). The ability for the watch to be adaptable in formal function is never part of its design brief. Complaining on its 'adaptibility' to all occasions is a mute point as it only has a specific role to play - to be a profession dive watch.

There are just a few design features on the watch I would like for Citizen to consider changing.

The first is the crystal option. I would have preferred it if Citizen used sapphire crystal instead. It would make the watch slightly pricier but it would also place the watch in a more classier category. Moreover, adding an anti-reflective coating to the crystal makes the dial clearer to see.

The second is the strap. A cloth or nylon material akin to a NATO or ZULU style instead of the polyurethane is preferred. This will eliminate the need to have a secondary extension strap as the NATO or ZULU style strap can be made longer and tucked away nicely if not in use.

The third and final change is having an automatic movement option apart from the Eco-Drive engine. There are a lot of collectors that will find it very appealing to acquire an automatic watch especially from Citizen considering the scarcity of automatic movement powered watch by the brand.

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.

Introducing iconic designs of yesteryear by established Japanese brands is a recent phenomenon. Seiko and Orient have done it and I suppose Citizen is just joining the bandwagon. This re-interpretation of classic designs has gotten more people into the hobby which should bode well for the future.

The Buying Experience

I ordered the watch via SeiyaJapan. Using DHL, the whole transaction from ordering and payment right up to delivery took only three (3) days. With the lockdown in Kuala Lumpur and Tokyo hosting the Olympics at the moment, courier services remain efficient. I am impressed.

As gifts, SeiyaJapan gave a signed polishing cloth as well as the 2021 Citizen Watch Brochure.