Pages

Saturday, March 7, 2020

Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch #2 - A Standalone Design, A Review (plus Video)

One genre of interest in my collection is military style watches (see here for the set of military watches in my collection). One of the more striking vintage military style watches (as well as rare) is the Rolex 3139. In 2020, Gruppo Gamma has decided to scratch-the-itch of military watch collectors by offering a close reinterpretation of the 3139 with some modern tweaks. The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch #2 is the design the brand came out with.

This is the second Gruppo Gamma watch in my collection. The first was a model from a collaboration of 50 pieces made for the Malaysia Watch Forum Group (or MWF) which was delivered in December 2013 (see here). I just realised that 2013 was also the year of establishment for Gruppo Gamma. I am very happy to note that the manufacturer MWF chose for that special project has grown into a proud brand.

I booked the watch when a pre-launch announcement was made for an introductory price of US299. The 200 meter water rating, the box sapphire crystal and the use of the SII NH35 automatic movement makes the introductory pricing look like a steal!


The Series

The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch #2 with canvas strap consist of six watches with difference coloured straps and dial. All are priced the same at USD399 (or USD299 during the pre-order period). The design is a re-interpretation of the Rolex Oyster Army Reference 3139.


Black

Blue

Cream

Black Sunburst

Blue Sunburst

Grey Sunburst

On Gruppo Gamma's website, a new set of Venturo Field Watch #2 is now on offer consisting of six (6) examples with leather straps (plus the canvas strap i.e. two straps will be given for each watch). All are priced the same at USD399 (or USD349 during the pre-order period).

The History

During World War II, watch companies rushed to equip timepieces to the Axis and Allied forces. Brands such as Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex, ALS, Wempe, Lacher & Co (Laco), Walter Storz (Stowa), Seikosha (Seiko), Tutima Glashutte, HanhartElgin, Bulova, Waltham, Hamilton, Panerai and a few more that I may have missed, all contribute to the war effort by creating timepieces suited to the job of fighting.

Rolex, then known for their dress watches also wanted to contribute to the war effort. The company supplied over 3,000 watches to the Allied troops during the war. The Reference 3139 was the model offered by Rolex for war. Despite producing a product destined for the theaters of war, Rolex still created an item of quality. The brand used its patented Oyster case. The cushion-shaped case, protected the watch from the dust and moisture. The stainless steel cushion case is approximately 30 mm (excluding crown) and powered by the Rolex Caliber 710 manual-winding movement.

The Rolex 3139 made during the war years 1939-1945 (photo taken from the internet)

The Venturo Field Watch #2 intends to replicate this famous design to some extent.


The Watch

The Venturo Field Watch #2 is made out of surgical grade stainless steel (316L). It has a diameter of 42 mm (excluding the crown) and has a lug-to-lug length of 48.5 mm. When compared to the Rolex 3139, the Venturo Field Watch #2 is an up-sized version of the legendary icon. Gruppo Gamma decided that contemporary taste should take precedent when re-imagining the 3139 instead of keeping true to the classic. In this case, it was decided that a 42 mm wide watch would be more acceptable instead of the original size of just 30 mm.


I do have mixed feelings about this. Due to scarcity, the likelihood that the majority of collectors have the opportunity to own a classic timepiece in their personal collection gets slimmer as the years go by. It is due to this reason that homage watches is a big thing in the watch community. There are vocal voices for and against homages but in reality, this is the only way watch collectors will be able to have something affordable yet similar to a classic.

In this instance, I am not in favour of Gruppo Gamma's re-interpretation of the 3139. They should just keep the dimension as close to the original as possible. Perhaps 36 mm would be the maximum width or not more than 20% over the original size. At 42 mm, it would not feel the same.

Nevertheless, at the end of the day: to each its own.

The Dial

The dial is black with only the series name "VENTURO" printed in white on it. There are two primary timing scales on it. The dial can be considered sterile as nothing else can be found on it.

At the extreme edge is the minutes and sub-minute markers comprising a combination of short, long and thick white lines as well as numbers from 5 to 60. Next to it is the primary hour marker scale with a combination of Arabic numbering and markers. All primary markers are covered with a vintage color Swiss SuperLumiNova luminous paint.

The Venturo uses the vintage syringe hands. Apart from the seconds hand, the two primary hands are covered with the same Swiss SuperLumiNova luminous paint. The seconds hand is painted with a copper-golden paint to match closely with the luminous paint on the other hands. The choice of the color create a dial that has a 'gilt' feel to it.



Protecting the dial is a box sapphire crystal. The crystal adds an additional 2.5 mm to the overall height of the watch. It comes with anti-reflective inner-coating protection. For me, this is Venturo's 'call-to-fame' as seldom one find a watch with this type of crystal styling sold at an affordable level.

In the photo above, you can see the rounded bevel on the sapphire as well as on the various edges of the watch casing. Wearers of this watch should take care against possible side impact damage as the design does not provide any protection to the crystal.

The Casing

The case is cushion shaped with a step-up fixed bezel. There are brushed and polished surfaces with beveled edges. The short and curved lugs have drilled-through lug holes which would facilitate strap changing. In the photo below you can see the signed screw-down crown.

 

Below is a side profile of the casing which shows clearly how the design of the lugs kept the overall length of watch to a more manageable size for average wearers.



The Strap

In the photo above, you will notice how thick the canvas strap provided with the watch. The doubled layered green canvas has a rugged rough texture and is capable to take a lot of abuse. There are two strap guides made out green canvas and the green stitching is very obvious yet subtle. The stainless steel tang-buckle has a small emblem stamped near the tang rest.



Below is a close up of the tang-buckle and the tang-holes cut through the canvas strap. The tang-holes are not reinforced and after wearing the watch for a week you can see the fraying around some of the tang-holes. Those of you with some form of OCD (apologies if I offended any sufferers), this may be very hard to accept. However, for me, it is the character of this watch and it shows how rugged it is.



The Case-Back

The Venturo has a solid screw-down case-back. In the center, a waffle-pan-like texture has been cut in the metal and around it, some key information about the watch can be found. However, no information about the serial number could be found. I quickly sent an email to Gruppo Gamma to find out. I got a reply from them that the watch does not come with a serial number engraved on the case-back or any part of the casing. Nevertheless, the warranty card is sufficient for support if required.



It is interesting to note that the method of twisting the case-back is via a case wrench with pegs using the holes provided.

The Movement

The engine powering the Venturo Field Watch #2 is the commercially available Seiko SII NH35 movement. This is the unbranded version of the Seiko Caliber 4R35 movement. This is an automatic movement with manual winding and hacking functions. Operating with 24 jewels at a frequency of 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertzs, the NH35 has an accuracy rate of between -20 seconds per day to +40 seconds per day. The accompanying mainsprings have power reserve of approximately 41 hours.

I was able to test the accuracy rate of the watch straight out of the box using the Toolwatch application. The first test recorded an accuracy rate of -13.1 seconds per day. This is within the manufacturer's stated rate. Although the accuracy of the mechanical movement is expected to improve as it stabilises with usage, I did not conducted the test again as I am satisfied that the manufacturer delivered a product as designed.

An interested aspect of the choice of the NH35 is that it does comes with a date wheel. On the Venturo, it is designed as a simple three-hand analog watch without any other complication. This means the date wheel is a redundant module operating normally under the dial except that no one can see it.


The Illumination

Below was a photo I took with the luminous Swiss SuperLumiNova paint in action. It has a patina-green colour to it that fits into the vintage design of the Venturo. One can definitely see the hour markers and hands clearly.



Unfortunately, this has created a problem for referencing. The large hour markers does not actually indicate where the scale is. As such, if you need to refer to the minutes, there is an error rate of approximately a few minutes. A possible solution is to also put additional luminous dots on the scale to reduce the error rate.

The Purchasing Experience

I bought the Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch #2 during its pre-order period. Made the purchase in mid January with the expectation that the watch be ready for delivery end-February or early-March. However, by end-January, I received an email from Gruppo Gamma informing me the availability of the watch. Within a few days, the watch was on my table.



Gruppo Gamma provided a nice travelling watch-box with two slots. Zippered and there is a sleeve inside the watch-box to slip documents etc.


The Wearing Experience

The watch is not heavy. The canvas strap is actually comfortable to wear despite its rough look. As the canvas strap is able to absorb sweat much better than leather, wearing it for an extended period of time is not a problem.



The square casing is seldom seen nowadays. Wearing it makes one feel special and creates a nostalgia of wearing an old vintage timepiece. Although the Venturo Field Watch #2 was designed after the Rolex Reference 3139, not a lot of people (even collectors) seems to recognize the design similarities. I would fault the size of this re-crafted timepiece as the reason for this confusion.

The original Rolex Reference 3139 has dimensions of approximately 30 mm by 37 mm unlike the Venturo Field Watch #2 dimensions of 42 mm by 48.5 mm. From size comparison point of view, the Venturo Field Watch #2 takes up 1.83 times the wrist area when compared to the Rolex Reference 3139. Given such dimensions, I am not surprised that a lot of people cannot equate the Venturo Field Watch #2 as a re-craft of the Rolex Reference 3139.



I do have to concede that the case design is very similar to the Rolex Reference 3139. In this regard I am pleased, but the size discrepancy will not allow me to truly experience the feel of wearing a  Rolex Reference 3139. Granted, the original size of the Rolex Reference 3139 is not "contemporary". Nevertheless, if Gruppo Gamma wanted to really give the "Rolex Reference 3139" experience to its customers, everything should be similar to the original.

Recently Hamilton also launched a re-craft of another famous military watch - the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical H76419931 - A Re-craft of the Classic W10. In this case, Hamilton kept the dimensions like the original i.e. 33 mm. It was not an issue with watch community.

Having said that, I do enjoy the watch as the vintage design is refreshing when compared to the current contemporary designs available. It is a pity I cannot enjoy it like wearing an actual vintage Rolex Reference 3139.

  

Specifications
Case: 316L stainless steel, alternating brushed-polished surfaces
Dial: Matte black dial
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Strap: Green canvas with length of 125 mm/75 mm
Crystal: Box shaped sapphire with underside anti-reflective coating
Case-back: Solid stainless steel screwed down plate
Crown: Screw-down
Illumination:
  • Markers filled with Swiss SuperLumiNova® vintage color
  • Gold color hands filled with Swiss SuperLumiNova® vintage color
Dimensions: Width 42 mm; Length 48.5 mm; Height 13.5 mm (including the 2.5 mm box crystal)
Lug Width: 22 mm
Weight: 130 gm with strap
Movement: Seiko SII NH35 automatic with manual winding and hacking function
Jewels: 24
Frequency: 21,600 BPH
Accuracy: -20 seconds per day to +40 seconds per day
Power Reserve: 41 hours
Function: Hours, minutes, seconds and date (No aperture provided to see the date)
MSRP: USD399; USD299 (pre-launch price)
Launch Date: February 2020
Order Date: 15 January 2020
Delivery Date: 5 February
Paid: RM1,260.01
Additional Cost: RM114.40 (taxes)
Package Includes: Venturo travel pouch
Serial Number: F2-006


Photo Gallery

















No comments:

Post a Comment