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Saturday, December 14, 2019

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II Auto Chrono Limited Edition Reference H32866781 - Very Unique, A Review

In 2013 Hamilton released something really non-Hamilton-like in so many ways. The Jazzmaster Face 2 Face caught many off-guard with its oval shaped watch casing, its unique double ETA movements powering opposing dials. The opposing watch faces can be flipped between a standard 3-hand watch face or a chronograph face (hence the name of the watch). Unfortunately, the value proposition which Hamilton envisage for the watch and the pricing set was not conducive and put off a lot of people.

Having listened to the feedback, Hamilton tried again in 2016 with the latest rendition, the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II reference H32866781. This time around, Hamilton's designers have created something more contemporary and utilising the many dead spaces in the original Face 2 Face. More importantly, the value proposition which Hamilton envisage for the new watch and the pricing set is now more grounded in reality.


To be honest, I was keen to get one but I realised that Hamilton did not have a strong network in Malaysia (then). Since this watch is a limited edition piece with only 1,999 examples available, the likelihood of me getting one was rather slim. As a result I didn't actively pursue getting one.

Three years later, while window shopping at one of the many watch shops in Mid Valley Megamall in Kuala Lumpur (this one is not one of my regular dealers), I happen to spy something interesting displayed at the back of display cabinet allocated to Hamilton. Lo and behold! I finally have in my grasp a Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II reference H32866781.


The Purchase

It is most unfortunate that the watch is located in an establishment that is not part my standard dealership group. This would make getting the best discount possible difficult. I quickly made a call to one of my dealers that carries the Hamilton brand. Unfortunately, he did not get an allocation. I tried another dealer friend and he made a direct call to Hamilton's main distributor in Kuala Lumpur. This time around a more definitive answer was obtained; only one unit is available and it has been allocated to just that particular shop in Mid Valley Megamall.

I was lucky that my main dealer was free at the time and both of us walked to that shop in question. I was luckier still when he also happens to know the sales person at that shop. After a short negotiation, I was able to walk out with the watch after getting a 25% discount from the MSRP.


The Watch

This new iteration, the Face 2 Face II uses the same ingenious flip mechanism as the original Face 2 Face. The major differences are as tabulated below:

ModelFace 2 Face (@2013)Face 2 Face II (@2016)
MovementTwo movements:
1. ETA 2094 for the chronograph
2. ETA 2671 for the time-only side 
One movement:
1. H-41 for both sides
DisplayFace 1: Chronograph, date and time
Face 2: Second time zone
Face 1: Chronograph, time, day & date
Face 2: Pulsometer, tachymeter and telemeter
MSRPUSD6,195 (when launched)USD3,995 (when launched)
UnitsLimited edition of 888 unitsLimited edition of 1,999 units

Made out of stainless steel, it is oval shaped where the width of the watch (excluding crown and pushers) is 53 mm while the lug-to-lug length is 43 mm. Height is just 11 mm thick. Dimension wise, it is similar to the original Face 2 Face of 2013.



The Flip Mechanism

The case reversing mechanism sits in the centre of the case and inline with the crown and crown stem. The entire case pivots around the center of the watch frame and is bi-directional. The casing simply locks to the frame by a set of four ball bearings sprung within its sockets and located near the lugs. To disengage the lock, simply apply pressure on the side of the case until the ball bearing springs compresses. When that happens, the casing can then be rotated to the other side. Although the mechanism works, as it operates by applying pressure, you will notice friction marks on the inner surface of the frame. Ideally, I would prefer a push-button-to-release mechanism instead. I just can't stand to see scratch marks.



The Dials

I have never had a watch with an intriguing design before. Like its namesake, this watch has two dials back-to-back. Having such an innovative dial design opens up a set of new possibilities when it comes to displaying complications. In effect, the design gives Hamilton twice the real estate when compared against other contemporary designs of similar size.  

The Face 2 Face II has a primary dial that consists of 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters (top and bottom of the dial, respectively), a sub-second counter (left of the dial) as well as a day-date window (right of the dial). The secondary dial consists of the long chronometer hand that points to three different scales, namely, a pulsometer scale, a tachymeter scale and a telemeter scale. The only odd thing is that the scales are drawn in reverse, i.e. in a counterclockwise direction. More about this later.

The Primary Dial



The primary dial is a sandwich of multi-layered surfaces. It features centered hours and minute hands on a warm, brushed silver background. At the 3 o’clock position is the rectangular viewing port for the day and date wheels. The text on these two wheels are are printed in white on a slate gray background. This colour combination gives it a semblance of symmetry that matches the colour of the three sub-dials.

Within the oval casing sits a large circular disk that tracks time. The edge of disk is surrounded by a white minute and sub-minute marker railway track. On the track near 6 o'clock is the words "SWISS MADE". Meanwhile, from the centre, 12 radial white lines can be seen that are intermittently blocked by the various sub-dials and date-date aperture.

Out of the three sub-dials, the sub-second counter is the largest and surrounded by a black minute marker railway track. The zone of the sub-dial that sits on the large circular disk is partially transparent. On this sub-second counter, the brand and logo is printed in white as well as the numbers "60" and "30", also in white. The other two counters that are for the chronograph function are painted in dark blue with radial texture. Apart from line markers, there are also a few numbers painted in turquoise such as the numbers; 10, 20 and 30 on the 30-minute counter, and 3, 6, 9, and 12 on the 12-hour counter.

On both left and right of the oval casing are the cut-outs which gives this Hamilton a semi-skeleton look. However, nothing of significant can be seen as that location is devoid of any interesting internal parts. At most you can just see part of the date and day wheels under the transparent section.



Dauphine-shaped hands are used on the watch apart from the chronograph and sub-second which are spear-shaped. All hands are polished apart from the main chronograph hand which has been painted dark blue. Only the hands on the chronograph counters as well as the hours and minutes hands are painted with a strip of Super Luminova paint. The illumination decidedly poor. Why Hamilton even bothered I don't know.

Protecting the dial is an oval shaped dome sapphire crystal.

The Secondary Dial



The secondary dial has only one hand, the pass-through chronograph seconds hand in turquoise. Although the watch has been defined as a "semi-skeleton" watch, the movement can only be seen properly on this side of the watch casing. Although the Hamilton-signed rotor is in the way, as it spins, you can see the movement as it gets out of the way. You are also able to see the circular guilloche pattern of the plates on the movement.

There are three types of scale on this secondary dial. Printed on an inner track is a tachymeter scale to measure speed. Moving out from there is a telemeter track, which can be used to measure distance to a sound. Finally, a Base 30 pulsometer scale for measuring heart rate printed directly on the inside of the sapphire crystal in turquoise. All scales are printed counter-clockwise since the pass-through seconds hand rotates backwards on this side of the watch casing.

Do note that the controls are also switched when the secondary dial in flipped to the top. Now, it is the lower pusher that starts and stops the seconds hand while the upper pusher resets it.

Similar to the primary dial, the secondary dial is protected by an oval shaped dome sapphire crystal.


The Frame

The large push-in & push-out signed crown is located at 3 o'clock.

On either side of the crown is the large squarish pushers with protective sheath up to halfway up the pushers. The pushers are spring tensioned and not connected permanently with the watch casing. Each time a pusher is pushed, a connecting rod will be extended beyond the frame and pushes on the corresponding tab on the watch casing, operating much like the moon phase or calendar setting pin-pushers on other watches. This system allows the watch casing to turn freely 360-degrees along the crown stem axis.



On the opposite of the crown, you can see the corresponding screw that locks the rotating axis of the watch casing along the crown stem.



The fixed bezel sits flushed with the watch casing when it is locked in place. However, it is imperative that you clean this area periodically as it is prone for muck to get stuck in it.

From a far, the lugs appear to be a separate component of the frame. It is just an illusion caused by the way the various lug surfaces were cut which is different than the rest of the frame.


The Strap

Paired with the watch is the doubled layered leather strap with the reference number H6003281041. It has a faux crocodile patterned texture on the upper surface in black while the lower surface is  turquoise in colour. It has a turquoise double-stitching at the edge for a nice colour contrast. The whole set up has a youthful feel to it.



At the lugs, the strap measures 24 mm wide and it tapers down to around 20 mm at the clasp. The strap end at the lugs is rounded and fits into the circular space for a nice visual transition. The clasp is a single fold with push-button clasp. The bridge is machined instead of stamped which makes the whole setup feels high end.


The Unit Number

My Face 2 Face II is part of the 1,999 examples. In my case it has the serial number 930.





The H-41 Caliber Movement

The H-41 that powers the Face 2 Face II is a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 made exclusively for Hamilton by ETA (a major movement maker which happens to be Hamilton’s sister company in the Swatch Group). The unique modifications made are the longer power reserve to 60 hours from the original 48 hours and a “passing through chronograph second hand” (as written on Hamilton's website).



The movement operates at 28,800 BPH (4 Hertz) and utilises 25 jewels. Apart from the chronograph module (chronograph hands front and back; 30-minute counter; and 12-hour counter) it also has a date and day complication. It has manual winding capability as well as seconds hand stop mechanism (hacking).

There is no elaborate finishing on the movement. Overall, just simple finishing such as the ruthenium-plated bridges with circular texturing and some pearled effect to give a nice visual feel to it.

I was able to do a simple accuracy test using the Toolwatch app and in my first test straight out of the box it recorded an accuracy of +5.8 seconds per day.


The Wearing Experience

From photographs, the watch's shape and size looks intimidating and a lot of people dismissed the watch as something unwearable. However, most of them don't realise that the dimensions are actually quite reasonable apart from one. One important dimension that effects wearability is the lug-to-lug length. For this watch it is just 44 mm. When one compares that dimension to other temporary watches vis-a-vis someone with a 6.75 inch circumference wrist, it is actual quite suitable. There shouldn't be any lug-overhang at all.



The oval shaped casing does take time getting used to. However, once you have it on, it feels as natural as wearing a normal round watch. You do need to remember not to wear the watch too close to the hand (i.e. wear it higher up the wrist). Due to the elongated part of the watch, if this advise is not followed, the crown and pushers would bite into your skin when you flex your hand.



If this watch was originally designed as a fashion timepiece, the dial design is not an issue. However, as a formal watch for practical use, the dial design is not satisfactory. The semi-skeleton design as well as the texture and colours of the various overlapping sub-dials and hands make it very difficult to quickly read the time. I have to do a double-take every time I look at dial to make sure I reading the right time.

The other issue I have is the flip mechanism for the watch casing. As I have highlighted earlier, it would be better to have a push-button locking system instead of the pressure ball bearings. The friction marks on the inside of the watch frame would be very distracting especially if you have OCD.

Below are two videos of the watch with the two different dials as reference.

The primary dial:


The secondary dial:



Famous designs with similar concept of having two dials back-to-back is the Reverso by JLC and the Basculante by Cartier. In terms of the oval shape, the Audemars Piguet Millenary comes to mind. Having this combination of concept and shape makes the Face 2 Face II unique and incredibly beautiful to me. What makes it even more remarkable is that despite it being well made, the price point is well below the other comparable timepieces.


Operating Manual & Video Instructions

Below are two versions of the instruction for the Face 2 Face II, a text document and a video.








Specifications

Brand: Hamilton
Model: H32866781
Origin: Swiss made
Movement: Hamilton automatic calibre H-41
Jewels: 25
Frequency: 28,800 BPH
Power Reserve: 60 hours

Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Shape: Oval

Case Size: 53 mm (W) x 44 mm (L) x 11 mm (H)
Case Back: Transparent exhibition see through
Lug Width: 24 mm
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 m) / 73 psi (164 ft)

Dial Type: Analog and skeleton
Dial Color: Silver
Crystal: Scratch Resistant Sapphire
Hands: Silver-tone
Dial Markers: Index

Band Type: Strap
Band Material: Leather with grained imitation alligator texture 
Band Color: Black upper with turquoise lower and turquoise double stitching
Band width: 24 mm tapering to xx mm at the clasp
Band Reference: H6003281041

Buckle Type: Deployant clasp

Functions:
- Face 1: Chronograph, date, day, hour, minute, second
- Face 2: Pulsometer, tachymeter and telemeter
Model Available: Limited edition of 1,999 units
MSRP: RM16,545
Launch Date: 2016
Bought Date: 23 October 2019
Bought Price: RM12,400
Serial Number: 930/1999
Vendor: Watchshoppe


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