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Monday, November 25, 2019

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Tough Chronograph Stainless Steel and Titanium Watch CA0720-54H - From Citizen's School of Hard Knocks, A Review (plus Video)

I starting to focus more on Citizen designed watches in the last year or so. My previous biasness against non-mechanical timepieces shielded me from exploring this branch of the horological tree. After braking through the 'quartz' barrier I realised that there are a lot of incredible technologies and applications that can be found in this realm. My paranoia of serviceability as well as the possible deterioration of unique components appear unfounded as a number of quartz timepiece since the early era of the quartz timeline remain in operation without a care in the world.

Earlier this year I purchase the Citizen BN0211-50E Promaster Tough. I was very impressed with the build quality and its capabilities. When I noted that Citizen also came up with a chronograph model under the Tough series, I decided to get one.

There are two models under this sub-group. A bracelet version and a strap version. I decided on the bracelet version with reference CA0720-54H as I am intrigue with the bracelet design.For more information about the series and history, please refer to the special section at the end of this review.

The Watch

The CA0720-54H is a stainless steel watch with Citizen’s proprietary titanium-infused Duratect hardening technology which is approximately 5 times more scratch-resistant than standard stainless steel.

The Promaster Tough Chronograph is built to really rough it out. It’s shock-resistant and anti-magnetic. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Therefore the internal construction of the watch casing is rather intricate.

Measuring 44 mm across (47 mm with crown and pushers), it has a real tool watch heft to it and is very prominent. With a lug-to-lug length of 52 mm, this watch is designed with people with medium and above size wrists. Even with my 6.75 inch circumference wrist, there is a slight lug overhang when I wear this watch.

To be visually compatible to the size of the watch casing, the lug width of 22 mm was chosen. However, the thickness is relatively thin at just 13 mm. Despite the need to have an intricate inner design for the shock-resistant and anti-magnetic properties, the designers were able to pack everything into the thinner watch casing. This was made possible due to the use of Citizen's Eco-Drive module, in this case the B612 which also has a chronograph function (this goes to show how thin Citizen can design a Eco-Drive module). The whole package weighs in approximately 190 gm.


The Dial

As the same suggest, the Promaster Tough Chronograph was designed to look and feel rugged. It has a grey dial (with some undertone of green) and is rather busy with three sub-dials and a deep date aperture.

The sloping chapter ring is painted black with minute and sub-minute markers with a combination of Arabic numbers and lines in white paint. On the dial surface itself, large applied hour markers in a combination of rectangles and Arabic numbers were used. All painted with Super LumiNova paint. It is also interesting to note that due to the presence of the sub-dials and date aperture, the hours allocated with rectangle markers are dissimilar and the number "7" was truncated somewhat. 



The two primary sub-dials are the 60-minute chronograph sub-dial located at the upper quadrant and the seconds sub-dial located at the lower quadrant. Between the two primary sub-dials and to the left is the 24-hour sub-dial. The primary sub-dials have polished frame with beveled inner and outer sections. On closer inspection (more clearly seen on the 24-hour sub-dial), all sub-dial surfaces are a step lower than the main dial surface. It would appear that that sub-dial surfaces could be the solar panels.

The date aperture is a small cut on the dial and framed in steel. The date wheel is set even deeper (to be even below the solar panels) compared to the sub-dial. Unfortunately, this makes it difficult to refer to the date as you need to look at it deadcenter to see the number at the bottom of the date aperture.

The texts and logo are concentrated around the 3 o'clock position while some manufacturing coding in very small font can be found at the edge of the dial at 6 o'clock. All the texts are painted directly on the dial in white.



The hands on the sub-dials are only painted with normal white paint. It is only the half-skeleton hours and minutes hands that are painted with Super LumiNova paint. As for the chronograph arrow-like hand, it is painted in red with only the tip painted with Super LumiNova paint. Below is the view of the watch face in the dark. There would appear to be two tones of illumination for the watch.




The Casing

The bezel on the Promaster Tough Chronograph is unfortunately fixed. Although it has the strong semblance to a dive bezel, Citizen decided the scale on the bezel which happens to be line markers cuts into the steel material and filled with black paint should just be a secondary hour scale for the watch. I don't find this a problem as the primary hour scale on the dial is too busy anyway. However, the designer have gone overboard by also adding in minute markers to the first 20 minutes of the scale. This gives an impression that it is a diver's bezel which it clearly isn't. The illuminated pip at 12 o'clock as well as the coin edge on the side of the bezel fuelled on the confusion further.

The only possible use I see is for the timing something for the just 20 seconds. Honestly, I cannot think of anything useful that can be timed for just 20 seconds.



If it was me as the designer, I would continue adding on the minute markers until the end. I would also eliminate the coin edge and replaced it with a bevelled brush surface. These simple changes will eliminate the confusion. As it stand now, a lot of fans are bitching about this inconsistency which don't do much good to the brand especially on a timepiece earmarked as an anniversary model!

Protecting the dial is a flat plane of sapphire crystal with AR protection treatment. The crystal is not placed flush to the bezel. The crystal extend slightly beyond the bezel. This increases the likelihood of side impact damage to the crystal. A possible permutation to the design is to add a dome sapphire crystal instead. This would still fit into the overall design philosophy of the watch.



The crown and pushers are located on the right side of the watch casing. The signed crown using the Promaster logo has a knurled surface for grip while the two large plunger-type pushers also have similar knurled surface on them. The crown is a screw-down crown and protected by two large shoulders protruding out of the casing. The controls are standard; crown to adjust the date and time; top pusher to start and stop the chronograph, and; bottom pusher to reset the chronograph.

The thick lugs curve slightly downward to support the curvature of the wrist. It does not have a passthrough drill holes for the lug bars which would have made it easier if users want to swap out the bracelet for straps.



The case-back is a solid screw-down plate. Basic information about the watch is stamped around the peripheral of the case-back. In the centre is the standard graphic of the brand. Underneath the case-back is the Eco-Drive B612 module.


The Module

The B612 has the following display for time: hour; minute; second, and; 24-hour. It also has a date complication that does not automatically adjust for months shorter than 31 days. Functionally, it has a solar charging system, a chronograph that measures up to 60 minutes, an insufficient charge warning system, a overcharge prevention system and a quick start system.


It has an accuracy rate of within +/-15 seconds per month when worn at normal operating temperatures typically between +5°C (41°F) and +35°C (95°F). The module has a power reserve of 7 months. When the Insufficient Charge Warning Function engages (second hands starts jumping few seconds ahead consistently) there is enough power left for approximately seven days. Despite the watch being touted as being "tough", it can only operate properly in an environment where the temperature is between ‒10°C (14°F) to +60°C (140°F).

On tests done with the simple Toolwatch app, I was able to record an accuracy of +0.0 seconds per day which is not unexpected.



The Bracelet

The bracelet on the Promaster Tough Chronograph is of a new design. It is 22 mm across the lugs and tapers to 20 mm to the clasp. The bracelet has solid end-links with the centre links having a knurled surface, similar to the pushers. No half-links provided for finer sizing.



The links are attached by split pins which is much more elegant than the pin-and-collar system. For my 6.75 inch wrist, I just need to take out one link and use the most inner micro-adjustment point on the clasp (more about this later). This is a surprised as I usually need to take out at least two links to adjust to my wrist size. This would imply those with bigger wrist may find it tight straight out of the box. I was made to understand that you can email to Citizen to request for additional links at minimal costs.



The visual balance between the brushed surface and knurled surface on the bracelet reflects the tool-like nature of the watch; tough, capable and professional.



The clasp bridge is machined. The clasp itself has a double-push lock system and an additional folding safety latch for security. The brand is stamped on the safety latch surface for visibility. To assist bracelet resizing size half-links were not provided, Citizen added three micro-adjustment points on the clasp.


The Wearing Experience

The Promaster Tough Chronograph is a definite beater watch. It has the capability to be a quick pick-and-go timepiece with no reason to always adjusting the time since the B612 module has been tested to be very accurate.

 

I tend to place this watch as an 'adventure' watch, in the similar grouping as a Rolex Explorer 1 or Seiko Alpinist. It is not a dive watch even though it is capable to take on 200 meters of water pressure nor is it a formal wear watch due to the size. The Promaster Tough Chronograph sits somewhere in between.

Unfortunately, this lack of 'focus' effects its place under the sun as there are many more alternatives out there that are more defined and understood by many. It is a pity because this watch is definitely capable to take on anything.





The History of the Citizen's Tough Watches

Citizen's foray into the world of tough watches started in 1950s with the launch of its first shock-resistant watch, the Citizen Parashock in 1956 and its first diving watch, the Citizen Parawater in 1959. These watches created a lasting impression on the watch community because of the extreme public stunts done to prove the toughness of these watches.

        
Citizen Parashock (1956)
 
Citizen Parawater (1959)

For the Parashock, Citizen held one stunt in front of the Kyoto railway station Citizen Parashock was dropped from a helicopter; the watch continued to function happily. For the Parawater, two endurance tests were conducted. The first was when a Parawater was tied to a buoy from a ship and towed to shore; the watch continued to run normally after the ordeal. The second test was even more excessive. Nicknamed the Trans-Pacific Test, 130 Parawaters were anchored to floating buoys, and launched into the Pacific Ocean. The currents carried the payload towards the North American coast. The journey of the watches lasted about a year, and when they were recovered, everyone of them were still working.




The Citizen Promaster collection was officially launched in 1989 which included the Aqualand belonging to the Marine category (Module: C020) and the Altichron belonging to the Promaster Sky category (Module: C040). From then on, the line prospered until today.


Aqualand - Module: C020

Altichron - Module: C040


The Series

As part of its 30th anniversary celebration of the Citizen Promaster (1989-2019) series, the brand launched two Promaster Tough Chronograph with reference CA0720 and CA0727.


Reference: CA0720-54H
MSRP: USD595.00

Reference: CA0727-12E
MSRP: USD550.00



Specifications

Model: Citizen Promaster Tough Model CA0720-54H
Movement: Eco-Drive quartz Caliber B612
Power Reserve: 6 Month
Case Material: Stainless steel with titanium DuraTect coating
Bracelet Material: Stainless steel with titanium DuraTect coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial Colour: Grey with a tint of green
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Complications:
- date;
- stopwatch, 1/5th second chronograph & 60 minute sub-dial;
- 12/24 hour sub-dial;
- Eco-Drive solar power
Illuminations: Super LumiNova paint on the hands and hour markers
Anti-magnetic: 4800 A/m
Diameter: 44 mm(47 mm with setting crown and pushers)
Length: 52 mm
Lug Width: 22 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Weight: 190 gm (approximately)
Launch: 2019
Serial Number: 951051085
MSRP: USD595
Warranty: 6 years
Bought: 3 October 2019 (via Amazon)
Price: USD388.50; USD9.83 (postage); USD19.92 (import fees) = MYR1,849.64


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