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Friday, August 9, 2019

Steinhart Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive - Candidate for a Beater Watch, A Review (plus Video)

The Ocean One series by Steinhart Watches is basically a homage to the iconic Rolex Submariner. All this while, I have refrained myself from getting them as I had a goal of getting a Submariner one day. However, I realised that goal would remain a dream as the current supply and demand situation for the Rolex Submariner remains unabated from historical highs. As such, I decided to look at homages.

Steinhart Watches has one of the most comprehensive set of models as homage to Rolex sports watches including the Submariner. The Ocean One series is the line that caters predominantly to the Submariner genre. After looking at the offering via Gnomon Watch Company out of Singapore, I decided to get the Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive model. It is a typical three-hand automatic analogue watch with a date complication but with a rather unique unidirectional bezel.


For this exclusive model, the Gnomon Watch Company collaborated with Steinhart to produce a Ocean One black diver with a sleek black 3D ceramic bezel inlay. This 3D ceramic bezel is unique. Typically, the numbers and markers on a ceramic bezel are cut into the material. However, Steinhart has done the opposite where the numbers and markers are protruding while the background is recessed. This has the same effect of creating a Braille-like text for the vision impaired. With the addition of the new ceramic bezel, this Gnomon exclusive model has created a unique dive watch.



Instead of a homage to the Submariner, I realised that it looks more like a Yacht-Master instead. Although the basic specifications is very Submariner-like, the unique design of the 3D bezel subtly transforms it to more like a Yacht-Master.

The Watch Casing

The watch itself is typical of most homages. Made out of 316L stainless steel, it features a satin brushed finish on the top surfaces with polished sides. The same finishing is also given to the stainless steel bracelet. The watch casing has a width of 42 mm (without crown) and a length of 49 mm lug-to-lug. Lug width is 22 mm and the weighs in approximately 105 gm.

There are no drill-through lug holes. Nevertheless, it is easy to replace the bracelet as the end-links have slots to easily hook on the spring-bars.  

The Dial

The watch has a straight and polished chapter ring. The dial is painted black with minute markers at the peripheral of the dial. The main hour markers are applied and painted with SuperLuminova luminous paint within a polished frame. All the markers are round except for the 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock markers. The 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock markers are rectangle while the 12 o'clock marker is triangular. There is no marker for the 3 o'clock position as it has been replaced with a date aperture.



There are seven lines of texts and logo on the dial. In the upper quadrant sits the logo and brand. In the lower quadrant are the words "ocean one", "1000 ft/300 m", "AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT", "PROFESSIONAL" and in small font at the edge near the 6 o'clock position, "SWISS MADE".

The hands are the traditional Submariner watch hands with the accompanying luminous paint.

Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating for added clarity under different lighting conditions. It also has a date magnifier.



The Bezel

The unidirectional bezel has a 120-click movement for one complete rotation. As expected from a dive watch, there is a luminous pip at the 12 o'clock position. The raised 5-minute markers and Arabic numbers are distributed all along the bezel with additional minute markers for the first fifteen minutes. For ease of manipulation, the knurling on the side of the bezel is deep and clean.




The Crown

Typical of the Submariner design, the Steinhart signed 6.5 mm screw-down crown is located at 3 o'clock. Engaging the threads when screwing down is easy. It has four positions; the first is the lock-down position; the second is the unlock position where one can manually wind the movement; the third is one-notch up which will allow one to adjust the quick-set date and; the fourth is the two-notch up which will allow one to adjust the time. In the last position, the seconds hand will be disengaged (hacking function).



The Bracelet

Paired with the watch is a satin-brushed stainless steel bracelet with screw links and flip-lock clasp. The end-links are solid and so are the individual links. There are no half-links provided. The bracelet tapers from 22 mm at the lugs to 18 mm at the clasp.



Adjusting the bracelet is easy as the links are connected by screw-in bars. To adjust to a more micro level, there are four micro-adjustment points provided on the clasp.



I like the choice of the bracelet bridge. Steinhart's is machined and not stamped sheet metal. This has the feel of quality to it. Nevertheless, this positive is shadowed by the lack of a divers' extension on the bracelet.

My only comment is the clasp design. Steinhart uses a clasp with a main friction lock system and a backup flip-lock. I find the choice of a friction lock system to be a little old-fashion for my taste. A push-lock system would be more appropriate (similar to what you find on a Seiko Prospex bracelet). As it is now, I have to use my nails to pry open the clasp with some force.


The Movement

The solid screw-down case-back contains the King Triton and seahorse graphic as well as some basic information about the watch.

Underneath the case-back is the ETA 2824-2 Elaborated automatic movement. This is a grade higher than the standard grade movement and adjusted in three positions with accuracy of +/-7 sec/day up to +/- 20 sec/day. This 25 jewel movement operates at 28,800 BPH or 4 Hertz and has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

I was able to do an accuracy test using the Toolwatch application straight out of the box. I was able to record +7.0 seconds per day which is just within the stated accuracy of the movement. I suspect further tests would show better results as the movement settles in. 

The watch satisfy the ISO6425:2018 international standard for a dive watch which account for the word "PROFESSIONAL" on the dial. The design of the watch allows it to withstand a water rating of up to 300 meters.




The SuperLuminova Illumination

Visually, it would appear that generous amounts of SuperLuminova paint was put on the watch. However, the illumination was not as bright as expected (well below the standard of a Seiko dive watch). The aquamarine color of the luminous paint is cool though.




The Wearing Experience


The 42 mm watch looks fine on my 6.5 inch circumference wrist. To make it sit nicely on the wrist, I had to take out three (3) links. My only comment is the choice of the 22 mm wide bracelet. I believe a 20 mm wide bracelet would look better.



Overall, I find this watch to be very comfortable to wear. The dial is uncluttered and easy to refer to and value-for-money quality. If you want to find a beater watch, this is a good candidate. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.



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The Reveal

I bought the watch from Gnomon Watches of Singapore. Ordered it on the evening of Wednesday, 31 July 2019 and I got it delivered to by noon of Friday, 2 August 2019 via DHL. Excellent speed of delivery.

Part of package was a NATO strap. Thank you Gnomon!




My Steinhart Collection

Apart from the Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive timepiece, I also have three other Steinharts in the collection. These are tabulated below.

Ocean Vintage GMT

The Steinhart Ocean Vintage GMT is based on the Ocean One line of divers and hence is water rated to 1,000 feet or 300 meters. Made in Switzerland, the material used for the casing and bracelet is the 316L stainless steel with satin brushed and polished finish surfaces.

This homage is to the Rolex Explorer II Reference 1655.

Rolex originally launched the Explorer II back in 1971. The watch came in either Type 1 or Type 2 where the former is generally a generic 3-hand watch while the latter came with the GMT hour hand, 24-hour scale bezel and a quickset date with a Cyclops magnifier. Both were chronometer rated watches and water resistant to 100 meters. Production continued until 1984.
http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2017/05/steinhart-triton-1000-titanium-titan.html

TRITON 1000 Titanium Titan

The Triton 1000 is the latest offering by Steinhart. This latest iteration has a new casing design, uses a new material for the casing; titanium, and incorporate an automatic HEV mechanism. As a complete package, this model can withstand 1000 meters of water pressure.

The watch is sizeable. The casing is 45 mm wide with a 24 mm lug width. Its height is 15 mm. Despite the impressive dimensions, the weight is just 144 gm due to the use of titanium. If you like big dive watches, the combination comes together nicely.
http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2016/04/steinhart-ocean-one-titanium-500.html

Ocean One Titanium 500 Premium

As titanium is the base material for this watch, the weight (or lack of) is the most obvious attraction. At just 140 grams, this watch is light and belies its ruggedness.

The dimensions are just nice for my wrist. It has a diameter of 42 mm across and a height of 14.85 mm inclusive of the domed sapphire crystal (the dome added 1.85 mm additional height to the watch). The lug width is 22 mm and its lug-to-lug distance is 50 mm. Shaped like a classic Rolex Submariner with the gear-toothed bezel and a screw-down crown partially protected by shoulders protruding from the casing at 3 o’clock. On the top of the crown in a etching of the brand logo.


Specifications

Maker: Steinhart Germany - Swiss Made
Model: Ocean One Black 3D Ceramic Bezel Gnomon Exclusive
Movement: Swiss ETA2824-2 Automatic Movement
Dial: Black with hour markers
Luminous: Markers, hour, minute, second hands
Date: Quick-set date 3 O'clock
Case: Satin brushed top and polished sides Stainless steel
Bezel: Stainless steel with black ceramic 3D bezel
Crown: Screw-down Steinhart signed crown
Lug: 22 mm
Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal with date magnifier
Strap: Satin brushed stainless steel bracelet with screw links and flip-lock
Water resistance: 300 m
Dimensions: 42 mm in diameter, 49 mm lug to lug, 13 mm thick
Weight: ~105 gm
Power Reserve: ~40 hours
Price: USD510; RM2,181
Purchase: 31 July 2019





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