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Monday, July 15, 2019

Seiko Prospex SLA033J1/SBDX031 Limited Edition 1970 Diver - Two Thumbs Up, A Review (plus Video)

The year is 1970. Two great things happened that year.

The first was the launch of the now iconic Seiko 6105-811X dive watch (either 6105-8110 or 6105-8119; both are exactly the same, the last digit in the reference number indicates in which market the watch was originally sold). The production run of the watch span from 1970 to 1977 and came in two minor variations. The early models from 1970 were labeled “WATER 150M PROOF” on the dial, and “WATERPROOF” on the case back. At some point later that year, they changed the text to “WATER 150M RESIST” with “WATER RESISTANT” on the back. This was due to a change in nomenclature by Seiko.

The second was my birth.....

The Recreation

At Baselworld 2019, Seiko recreated yet another famous dive watches after the SLA017J1 and the SLA025J1, with the SLA033J1. The SLA033J1 is a re-creation of the famous Seiko 6105-811X dive watch nicknamed “Captain Willard” (due to it being worn by Martin Sheen’s character, Captain Willard, in the Vietnam war movie Apocalypse Now) or more commonly known as the "Turtle" diver (due to its asymmetrical cushion-shaped case). This Prospex timepiece is assembled by hand in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in northern Japan.


Martin Sheen’s character, Captain Willard, in the Vietnam war movie Apocalypse Now wearing the 6105-811X with rubber strap. Source - Courtesy of the Internet

With the acquisition of the SLA033J1, I now have all the three latest recreations namely the SLA017J1, the SLA025J1 and the SLA033J1. Below is a comparative table of all three recreations.

DETAILSSLA017J1SLA025J1SLA033J1
TypeScuba divingMix-gas divingScuba diving
Width39.9 mm44.8 mm45 mm
Length47.9 mm51.4 mm49.7 mm
Height14.1 mm15.7 mm13 mm
Lugs19 mm19 mm19 mm
Weight110 gm147 gm131.5 gm
Movement8L358L558L35
MaterialStainless steel with DiaShieldStainless steel with DiaShieldStainless steel with DiaShield
StrapSilicone strap and metal bracelet providedSilicone strap onlySilicone strap only
CrystalBox sapphireDual-curved sapphireDual-curved sapphire
Water Rating200 m300 m200 m
Edition911/2,000880/1,500831/2,500
MSRPYEN378,000/RM17,490YEN550,000/RM24,950YEN450,000/RM18,500
ConstructionCasing with screw-down solid case-back Monocoque casingCasing with screw-down solid case-back 
Magnetic resistance4,800 A/m16,000 A/m4,800 A/m

As you can see from the specifications tabulated above, the SLA033J1 is more akin to the SLA017J1.

The Watch

Below is an original newspaper advertisement of the 6105-811X in the 1970s. At that time, the specifications mentioned were impressive, especially taking into consideration the price of just USD75! Another interesting observation is the use of the term, "Shape up & ship out with Seiko". This term has always be associated with the military and the fact that it was used in the advert implies the target market of the watches.



Apart from that, other interesting terms used then compared to now: self wind versus automatic; instant date change versus quickset date, and; synchronized second setting versus seconds hand hacking.

The asymmetrical cushion-shaped or 'turtle' case measures 45 mm wide with a lung-to-lug length of 49.7 mm. Despite having a dual-curve or domed sapphire crystal over the dial, the height is just 13 mm. Paired with a waffle-pattern silicone strap with steel pin buckle, the SLA033J1 weighs in at 131.5 gm.

Made out of stainless steel, all surfaces have been protected with a super-hard coating called DiaShield.



If one compares it to the original (compare the SLA033J1 above with the 6105-811X in the advert on the right - source, the Internet), the resemblance is uncanny. Seiko has been able to recreate almost perfectly albeit using the latest materials, technology and manufacturing techniques, an old iconic watch that was produced within a relatively short span of 7 years between 1970 up to 1977.

Nevertheless, subtle differences are evident.

For example, the overall dimensions. The recreation is slightly bigger; approximately 1 mm wider as well as 2.7 mm longer. The height remains the same.

The SLA033J1 has drilled through lug holes which was not on the original. Also, the SLA033J1 lacks an applied logo on the dial unlike the original.

Apart from some changes to the texts on the dial (to highlight the new dive rating), Seiko did not replace the iconic “Suwa” symbol with another symbol on the recreation. I half expected Seiko to replace it with the "Prospex" symbol. I know a lot of people are happy that Seiko decided against putting the Prospex logo on the dial. However, I believe otherwise. Back then it was fine with the Suwa logo but why not with the Prospex logo today? Having a replacement logo completes the overall style of display between the new and the old. As it stands now, the new timepiece appears to be missing something.

The Dial

The vertical side wall is painted black to blend with the black dial. All the texts and marking are located on the dial itself. There are two timing scales. The first is located at the edge of the dial. This timing scale is in minutes and are marked with line markers. The next timing scale is for the hours using several shapes of applied rectangular markers. Each rectangular markers are surrounded by polished steel frames and painted with LumiBrite paint. The 3 o'clock marker also doubles up as the aperture for the date. The date aperture cuts through the dial at a slight angle and framed with polished steel 



There are only four lines of text on the dial. In the upper quadrant are the words "SEIKO" and "AUTOMATIC" printed on the dial itself. In the bottom quadrant are the words "DIVER'S 200m" and "JAPAN 8l35-" and "OONO R 2". In the original, the word "SEIKO" is an applied metal plate cut into shape. Based on what I can find about the matter, it would appear that the designers decided against following the original styling as they want to keep the dial consistent when it comes to the texts. I personally don't think that is a strong reason for making the change. I would prefer it if Seiko followed the original styling.

The hands are rectangular and polished just like the original. A long slot has been allocated on both hours and minutes hands for LumiBrite paint. Meanwhile, the seconds hand has a large arrowhead and painted not only with LumiBrite but also a dab of red paint.



Protecting the dial is a dual-curve sapphire crystal. There is a slight bevel between the edge of the bezel and the crystal. As the crystal sits lower than the top of the bezel, the sapphire is somewhat protected despite it being domed. The AR protection provided on the crystal does facilitate viewing at acute angles by minimizing distortions as shown in the photo above.

The bezel fitted is uni-directional and rotates in 120-click increments. Although it rotates confidently with no play at all, it does not have the firm ratcheting movement feel to it. To me, it feels more like a 'friction fit' mechanism. Almost noiseless when turning. I guess this is what technology can do to make it feel seamless but I do miss the loud mechanical ratcheting of older designs.

The side of the bezel utilised a coin-edge texture for grip which is somewhat similar to the original. I believe the bezel insert is polished steel with a diver's illuminated pip at 12 o'clock with Arabic, line and dot minute markers around it. Seiko has not disclose what the insert is made of and even the AD is not sure. Nevertheless, the painted glossy bezel insert is hard-wearing with similar texture to ceramic.

In the photo above, you can clearly see the drill-through lug holes. This is simpler way to access the spring-bars when replacing the strap. Also note the wrinkling effect seen on the surface of the crown guard. That is actually the reflection of the texture of my table where the watch was resting on. This shows to the extent of the mirror polishing done by Seiko. Although not mentioned in the formal specification guide issued by Seiko, it does look like Seiko's famous Zaratsu polishing technique could have been used on the watch.



The screw-down crown is located at 4 o'clock. Similar to the original in terms of shape, it uses a difference system to lock. In the original, the crown employed a turn-and-lock system i.e. more akin to latching it against an angle surface. For the recreation, the more practical and better protected (from water ingress) screw-down system is used.

The crown is well protected by a pair of huge crown guards that merge out from the casing. On lock-down, the top of the crown is lower than the top of the crown guards. Do note that the crown has kept the “LOCK →” indication that appeared on the original 6105. It adds a different look to the watch instead of the typical brand or logo print usually associated with the top surface of a crown. For grip, the crown has a series of deep and shallow grooves on the cylinder wall.

I found it difficult to access the crown. The crown guard is so effective at protecting the crown. It made it hard for me to get a good grip on the crown to unscrew it.


Flipping the watch over, you will be able to see the solid screw-down case-back with the “horseshoe” alignment style of engraving. Apart from the limited edition number and the water resistance limit of 200 meters, nothing else of regarding the specifications of watch was noted. It is also important to note that the style of engraving on the case-back is not similar to the original. It is actually similar to what is on the back of the SLA025J1.

Underneath the case-back sits the caliber 8L35. This automatic movement beats at 28,800 BPH or 4 Hertz and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Seiko has stated that it has a factory guaranteed error rate of -10 second to +15 seconds per day. Doing an accuracy test straight out of the box using the Toolwatch software, I was able to record +0.8 seconds per day error which is well within the manufacturer's guarantee.

As an additional note of interest, the 8L series were developed alongside the 9S55 Grand Seiko caliber that came out in 1998. They used the base architecture and same SPRON alloy for the mainspring and hairspring. Seiko designed the 8L35 specifically for dive watches by increasing the diameter of the balance to better handle the torque required for larger hands.

In 2015 they upgraded the 8L35 with the MEMs escapement that they developed for the Grand Seiko 9S6 series hi-beat calibers. One major departure is that the 8L series uses the magic lever winding mechanism while the 9S series uses the reverser gear winding mechanism. Although not strictly true, it is also frequently referred to as a Grand Seiko movement without the finishing.

The Strap

 


The Seiko SLA033J1 comes with a high-strength silicone strap with a waffle design texture on the top surface (photo above) and small concentric square box design texture on the bottom (two photos up). The strap guide is made of stainless steel, painted black and signed with the brand while the buckle is made of polished stainless steel. The strap length is 208 mm with a thickness of 4 mm. The 19 mm wide black “waffle strap” has a vintage look to it and a good pairing for the SLA033J1.

When compared to the original, there are some difference.

The first is the material. The original was made of rubber. The second is the texture on the bottom surface of the strap. In the original, it was either smooth or with large rectangular indentations. The third is the strap guide. On the original it is made of rubber and there were two of them. 

As a dive watch, you would need to be able to have the necessary flexibility to wear the watch like normal or wear it over a thick rubber wet-suit. In this regard, Seiko was generous enough to provide a strap that is extra long. Unfortunately, for my 6.75 inch wrist, the strap end wraps all the way around (see picture below). Some of you may be wondering whether it is possible to cut the strap to size. You can, but it won't be pretty. A replacement strap with a more useful length in the package would be appreciated like other special dive watch offerings from Seiko. A NATO strap would be a good backup.



From an external view, the polished stainless steel buckle appears plain and unsigned. However, if you flip the bottom part of the buckle, you can seen the 'SEIKO' logo (see below).



Overall, I like the silicone strap provided. It is soft and pliable. Unlike the old design rubber straps of Seiko, the textures incorporated on the inner surface of the strap allows the skin to breath easier and is less clammy after a long day of wearing.

The Lume

Seiko dive watches are famous for the brightness of their dial illumination in darkness. Using the patented LumiBrite paint, the SLA033J1 shines bright. In the photo below, you can see the following items on the dial and bezel painted with LumiBrite: the hour markers; the hours and minutes hands; the tip of the seconds hand, and; the 12 o'clock pip on the bezel.

Due to the bevel cut at the end of the sapphire crystal as well as its curve nature, when viewed at an angle, you can see some reflection of the hour markers.



At this stage I would start to rant about the need to sacrifice the 3 o'clock hour marker for the date aperture. To me, that choice spoils the symmetry of the illumination photo above. Nevertheless, as this is a re-creation, I guess I have to bit my lip on this. Hopefully, when Seiko launched a more affordable re-craft version (I suspect Seiko will do so since it was done for the SLA017J1 - via SBDC053 et al; and SLA025J1 - via SBDC061 et al), the designers would take this comment into consideration and re-positioned the date aperture where it would not replace anything important.

The Wearing Experience

I was trying to get some general sense of the wearing experience from the blogs of watch commentators but I could not find any as most wrote based the press release kit issued by Seiko when it was introduced in Baselworld 2019. I guess I have to take the lead on this one and share with all of you the intricate details of the wearing experience.



To give you some form of a common perspective, the pictures you see shows the watch on my 6.75 inch circumference wrist.

The silicone strap feels more inviting than it looks. The angular texture of the waffle-style strap is not rough nor is it stiff. The strap is very pliable and the various micro air channels created by the texturing on the underside of the strap facilitate the exhaust of sweat away from the skin. Unlike typical rubber straps, your wrist will not be clammy (and smelly) after a full day of activity with the watch on.

My first comment is the length of the strap provided. I understand the need for the extra length to cater for divers but I believe Seiko should understand that the 'divers' buying this watch would mostly (if not all) be 'desk divers'. In recognition of that kind of demographic, Seiko should have provided an additional strap with normal length. Perhaps a leather strap would be nice.

The second comment is the size of the lugs. Although 19 mm is true to the original, increasing it to the now more common 20 mm would make it easier to dress-up the watch with alternative straps. As the width of the watch is already slightly different than the original, make a small adjustment to the lug width should not be a problem. What is important is the aspect ratio remains the same.

The third comment is the price point for this watch. Despite its capabilities and ISO6425:2018 certification, I doubt it any owner would use it as designed. The price makes it too valuable to take risks. I know some of you may argue that some scratches and dings are acceptable as it reflects the 'soul' of a watch, when the MSRP is YEN450,000/USD4,250/EUR4,350/RM18,500, any scratch will be painful to bear. I personally will treat this watch more like a dress watch than anything else.

 

The turtle shaped casing blends nicely with my wrist. Coupled with the soft silicone strap, I can wear the watch firmly for an extended length of time without any discomfort. The shape of the casing also makes it very suitable to wear with formal attire as it helps minimise snagging against cuffs. To make it even more elegant, replacing the thick silicone strap with a nice leather strap is recommended. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.



The price factor has been stated by a number of blogs to be the most contention issue. Although I acknowledge the price factor, it is also important to note what is being offered by Seiko. It is unfair for watch enthusiasts to want a re-creation of the 6105-811X and get it at an affordable price. If Seiko accede to this request, how will it affect the secondary market for the vintage watches? If you are in Seiko's shoes, you don't want to jeopardise your brand's second hand value strength by creating 'alternatives'. 


Anyway, Seiko always follows up with re-crafted alternatives after the launch of their limited edition pieces. In this case, the 'follow-up' has been launched a couple of years ago in the form of the SRP773 Turtle Diver and its derivatives.

Finally, the question about the year of my birth that was brought up at the start of the review. The 6105-811X was the iconic watch launched in 1970. To have something now that commemorate that date is special to me (horologically speaking). As such, the price is secondary because the tie-in to my year of birth and an iconic diver from Seiko is priceless. 



The Purchase

I was made to understand only five units were allocated to Malaysia. I was lucky enough to be able to get the opportunity to acquire one from one of dealers from AWG Boutique. When I went to collect it on 1 July 2019, they have sold out. I did get a free gift of a Seiko waterproof bag.



I was able to get it for RM16,500. However, I was disappointed with the packaging. For the price paid, I would expect Seiko to put in extra effort to make it unique. Instead, I got a watch box that is similar to the standard. You only get the box, a pillow, the standard documents and the watch. If I was given the responsibility, I would provide at least a replacement leather strap (or NATO) as well as a spring-bar tool.

Comparison Between the SLA033J1, the 6105-811X and a Modern Homage

Some readers may be keen to read a comparative analysis between the re-creation SLA033J1 and the original 6105-811X. Unfortunately, I don't have an actual 6105-811X apart from some statistics I obtained from the internet.

SLA033J1
6105-8110

Nevertheless, I have a more recent homage of the 6105-811X by Athaya Vintage called AV002 Lamafa Diver. This would be a good approximation of the original. Below is a table of basic specifications of the watches in question.

DETAILSSLA033J16105-8110AV002 Lamafa
TypeScuba divingScuba divingScuba diving
Width45 mm44 mm44.3 mm
Length49.7 mm47.5 mm48 mm
Height13 mm12.5 mm13.5 mm
Lugs19 mm19 mm20 mm
ComplicationDateDateDate
Movement8L35; 26 jewels6105B; 17 jewelsNH35A; 24 jewels
MaterialStainless steel with DiaShieldStainless steel Stainless steel
StrapSilicone strapRubber strapRubber strap
CrystalDual-curved sapphire with AR coatingDual-curved HardlexDomed sapphire with AR coating
Water Rating200 m150 m200 m
ConstructionCasing with screw-down solid case-back Casing with screw-down solid case-back Casing with screw-down solid case-back
MSRPUSD4,250USD75USD350
Year201919702015
Aspect Ratio#0.910.930.93
# Aspect Ratio is defined as width divided by length

If you calculate the aspect ratio, you will find the Athaya Vintage homage is more closely sized to the original compared to the SLA033J1.

Athaya Vintage called AV002 Lamafa Diver
This is not a problem. Let's be honest, a drop of just 2 percentage points for the SLA033J1 in the Aspect Ratio does not radically change the way one looks at it compares to the 6105-811X. Fashion change and the use of more modern manufacturing techniques will introduce slight variations to the overall design to make it an even better product. Seiko is not producing a 'copy' but a 're-creation' with prevailing technologies.

Specifications

Caliber: 8L35, automatic with manual winding mechanism
Jewels: 26 jewels
Operating frequency: 28,800 BPH or 4 Hertz
Functions: Time, date (quickset)
Case: Stainless steel
Coating: DiaShield
Band: Waffle-pattern silicone strap with steel pin buckle
Glass: Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on inner surface
Illumination: LumiBrite on hands and markers
Power reserve: 50 hours
Water resistance: 200m water resistance suitable for air diving
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Dimensions: L49.7 mm x W45 mm x H13 mm
Lugs: 19 mm
Strap length: 208 mm
Strap height: 4 mm
Weight: 131.5 gm
Limited edition: 2,500 pieces only (#831)
MSRP: YEN450,000; USD4,250; EUR4,350; RM18,500
Launch date: Baselworld 2019
Delivery date: July 2019
Others:
  • Serial number engraved on the case back
  • Screw case back
  • One-way bezel
  • Screw down crown
  • Stop second hand function
  • Diver's Watch Standard ISO6425:2018 compliant





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