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| Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC201G Sports Collection on my wrist |
I have been collecting Grand Seikos for a number of years. Currently, I have the SBGA011 Snowflake, the SBGE033 Green GMT and the SBGE001 Sports GMT. I have yet to get my hands on a chronograph. It so happened that I found an interesting example that fits my requirement - the SBGC201G. This fortunate turn of event was when I visited one of my usual haunts, the Seiko Boutique in Mid Valley, Megamall.
If you may have noticed from the list of Grand Seikos in the collection, all of them are Spring Drive powered. Some of you may scoff to say that Spring Drive is just a glorified quartz movement. However, from an engineering point of view, the Spring Drive design is a technological jump in watch technology; a hybrid module between a mechanical and a quartz-regulated movement.
The SBGC201G (or SBGC201 for short) is a very bold watch. Listed by Grand Seiko as a member of the Sports Collection, it has a quirkiness to it stemming from the elongated crown and pushers. For some, those long protruding crown and pushers are deal-breakers while for some (myself included) find them intriguing and interesting.
The History
The SBGC201 is a rebrand of the original SBGC001 launched back in 2007. Seiko did a massive rebranding exercise in 2017 where it was decided that Grand Seiko will be an independent brand. As such, a few obvious cosmetic changes were made on the dial to reflect the new branding strategy.
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| SBGC001 launched in 2007 |
Above is a photo of the SBGC001 launched in 2007. With the rebranding exercise, on the SBGC201, the 'Seiko' brand at 12 o'clock has been replaced by the 'Grand Seiko' located at 11 o'clock. Similarly, where the 'GS' logo and 'Grand Seiko' brand used to be on the SBGC001, it has been replaced by the text 'GMT' in red on newer SBGC201.
This model is the first Grand Seiko with a chronograph function. Instead of just a mechanical chronograph, Seiko decided to incorporate the advance Spring Drive movement as well as a GMT function, date and power reserve indicator.
The Series
There are five models in the series. Apart from stainless steel, some of the models are also made from rose gold and titanium. Leather straps also come standard with some of the models. In the table below you will find the reference numbers of the various models. You will also able to find the reference link to the previous pre-branded models.
The Watch
The case is made out of stainless steel and polished using the famous Zaratsu hand polishing technique. The SBGC201G has a case diameter of 43.5 mm with a thickness of 16.1 mm. Let's be honest, this is a big watch which fits well with its sport-watch classification by Grand Seiko. Although you can wear it with formal wear, the size makes it difficult to slip under cuffs easily.
This model is the first Grand Seiko with a chronograph function. Instead of just a mechanical chronograph, Seiko decided to incorporate the advance Spring Drive movement as well as a GMT function, date and power reserve indicator.
The Series
There are five models in the series. Apart from stainless steel, some of the models are also made from rose gold and titanium. Leather straps also come standard with some of the models. In the table below you will find the reference numbers of the various models. You will also able to find the reference link to the previous pre-branded models.
 SBGC201 MSRP: YEN946,000 |  SBGC203 MSRP: YEN946,000 |
 SBGC204 (rose gold) MSRP: YEN3,630,000 | The current re-branded series consist of five models:
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 SBGC205 (titanium) MSRP: YEN1,111,000 |  SBGC207 MSRP: YEN924,000 |
The Watch
The case is made out of stainless steel and polished using the famous Zaratsu hand polishing technique. The SBGC201G has a case diameter of 43.5 mm with a thickness of 16.1 mm. Let's be honest, this is a big watch which fits well with its sport-watch classification by Grand Seiko. Although you can wear it with formal wear, the size makes it difficult to slip under cuffs easily.
The Dial
I chose the SBGC201G as it comes with a very beautiful silver sunburst dial. Nevertheless, due to the number of hands and sub-counters available on the dial, the dial surface is rather hard to appreciate from a far. Visually, you will able to see on this watch eight (8) hands, three (3) sub-dials, one (1) power-measuring scale, a date aperture and four (4) time-measuring scales. Despite the multitude of indicators, Grand Seiko has designed it as such that all information needed can be observed easily without too much confusion.
I chose the SBGC201G as it comes with a very beautiful silver sunburst dial. Nevertheless, due to the number of hands and sub-counters available on the dial, the dial surface is rather hard to appreciate from a far. Visually, you will able to see on this watch eight (8) hands, three (3) sub-dials, one (1) power-measuring scale, a date aperture and four (4) time-measuring scales. Despite the multitude of indicators, Grand Seiko has designed it as such that all information needed can be observed easily without too much confusion.
The arrangement of the sub-dials and power reserve counter is unconventional. Nevertheless, there is wisdom in the placement which I shall try to articulate as a user. Let me start from the dial edge.
The chapter ring has two-opposing sloping surfaces. The surface closest to the edge has a minute scale with Arabic numbering in black for every five minutes from 5 to 60. On the opposing slope facing the center of the dial is a sub-second scale with line markers; also in black.
On the dial surface there are two scales. The first is the GMT scale with Arabic numbering in black from 1 to 23 (only odd numbers are printed). The second is the hour scale and denoted by rectangular and faceted polished metal pieces applied to the dial. The 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock markers are slightly wider compared to the rest. As for the 3 o'clock position, a rectangular cut aperture with metal framing for the date complication has taken over the position for the marker.
I generally frown when watch designers replaces a key marker with a date aperture. It disturbs the symmetry of the dial. A better location would be the space between the markers. Unfortunately, due to the placement of the sub-dials and the important texts, the justification to sacrifice the 3 o'clock marker for the date aperture is understandable.
To conform with the silver dial, the date wheel has a white background with the numbers printed black.
The hand-polished Zaratsu technique’s alternating mirror polished and brushed surfaces is very much evidenced on the casing. What you see from the smooth surfaces is like light against a mirror - a perfect reflection. Although the dimensions are rather substantial (not everyone can confidently wear it on their wrist), it is well balanced and is only obvious when handled up close. 
The design team chose a three-fold clasp with push button release design seldom seen in the Grand Seiko line. In fact, a design usually seen in the Seiko 5 Sports line was used. The clasp design has four (4) micro-adjustment points which I can truly appreciate. Traditional Grand Seiko bracelet clasps are usually the short version with no avenue to incorporate micro-adjustment points. 
Beside the date aperture are the two chronograph sub-dials. The upper sub-dial is a 30-minute measure while the lower sub-dial is a 12-hour measure. The surface of the sub-dials were polished normally which create a nice contrast to the rest of the main dial surface.
On the left side of the dial is the third sub-dial which is the running second for the watch. Within this sub-dial, the words "SPRING DRIVE" can be found. Below this sub-dial is the power reserve indicator.
The dial does show a lot of information than can get confusing. Nevertheless, the designers at Seiko have a simple system of colour coding to facilitate proper referencing: all hands associated with the chronograph are heat blued; the GMT hand is red; all hands used for ordinary time-keeping are polished steel.
The brand is printed on the dial off-centered at the 11 o'clock position. Next to it is the applied logo. The letters "GMT" in red is at 6 o'clock at right at the edge of the dial (in vary small print) are the words "JAPAN" and a few manufacturing codes.
Protecting the dial is a high definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The beveled edge of the crystal protrudes slightly above the inner side of the fixed bezel which is also sloped to create a seamless transition from the crystal to metal casing.
Note also from the photo above the curved lugs and the pass-through lug holes. The former allows a nice close fitting on a wrist while the latter facilitate easy strap changes to be made.
Unlike other sport watches under the Seiko line, the SBGC201G does not have any Lumibrite paint painted on its surface. Personally, I am disappointed that Seiko find in unnecessary to provide and illumination for the watch.
The Casing
The case designed is contemporary for a chronograph watch with the crown located at 3 o'clock and the two pushers located at 3 o'clock and 4 o'clock respectively. What makes it unique is the way the crown and pushers are designed. Unlike contemporary chronographs, the crowns and pushers are substantially longer and thicker. Although it is not uncommon for a screw-down crown, having a screw-down system for the pushers is intriguing when this watch is not a certified diver.
The large size of the crown makes it easy to manipulate. Seiko also took the opportunity to etched the logo at the top surface of the crown.
The Bracelet
The bracelet is made from the same stainless steel as the casing with the same Zaratsu hand polishing attention. The bracelet has the 5-link design, where each complete link is made from five separate pieces that are individually hand polished. Two micro screws secure each link with a friction pin between them.
The bracelet is made from the same stainless steel as the casing with the same Zaratsu hand polishing attention. The bracelet has the 5-link design, where each complete link is made from five separate pieces that are individually hand polished. Two micro screws secure each link with a friction pin between them.
The end-links are solid and slots into the 21 mm wide lugs. The addition of pass-through holes on the lugs for the spring-bars make it easier to disengage the bracelet from the watch casing.
The design team chose a three-fold clasp with push button release design seldom seen in the Grand Seiko line. In fact, a design usually seen in the Seiko 5 Sports line was used. The clasp design has four (4) micro-adjustment points which I can truly appreciate. Traditional Grand Seiko bracelet clasps are usually the short version with no avenue to incorporate micro-adjustment points.
The bracelet is made with the highest level of manufacturing quality. The embossed emblem on the clasp and the machined stainless steel bridge across the two halves of the bracelet is a testament of quality of the brand.
The Movement
The screw-down display case-back is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating so that you can enjoy the beauty of one of the most intricate movement that Seiko have ever come out with. The Caliber 9R86 is the most advanced chronograph movement that has ever come out of the company [Correction: there is a newer version out now, the 9R96. This caliber is similar to the 9R86 except for a more accurate quartz crystal oscillator. The update improved the accuracy from ±15 seconds a month for the 9R86 (equivalent to ±1 second per day) to ±10 seconds a month for the 9R96 (equivalent to ±0.5 seconds per day)].
The 9R86 is a Spring Drive movement. In a nutshell, a Spring Drive movement is a mechanical movement minus a few very important parts such as a pallet fork, escape wheel, hairspring and balance wheel. The design replaces all of them with a tri-synchro regulator. Instead of the balance wheel oscillating back and forth, creating the characteristic 'tik-tok' we associate with a watch, a tiny electromagnetic brake slows the movement down in an incredibly precise fashion. This technology combines the three grail of watchmaking: it has the beauty of a mechanical, it has the accuracy of a quartz, and it has a perfectly smooth seconds hand. The Spring Drive movement will have none of the inconsistencies associated with different levels of energy in the mainspring i.e. it will be as accurate with one hour left in the reserve as it is with full energy.
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| Seiko Caliber 9R86 (photo from Grand Seiko's website) |
In such a relatively small package, the 9R86 packs a punch. It uses 50 jewels with a power reserve of 72 hours and has a manufacturer's stated accuracy of ±15 seconds a month (equivalent to ±1 second per day). Apart from the ability to tell the time, it also has a date, a chronograph function, a GMT hand and a power reserve indicator. For more information please visit: https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/about/movement/springdrive/9r86.
The Wearing Experience
When I first laid my eyes on the watch I did have a couple of concerns. The first is the size: will it sit nicely on my 6.75 inch wrist or will it look awkwardly big? The second is the protruding length of the crown and pushers: will I be able to flex my wrist without the possibility of pinching my skin against the crown and pushers?
In the picture above, you can see that the watch is substantial and my wrist just barely able to support it. Current fashion does not see this as a problem. For those of you that follow the traditional adage that formal watches should be petite and not too obvious may find the size slightly intimidating. The photo above also implies the need to wear the watch higher up the arm i.e. away from the hand to minimise the risk of having your skin pinched by the extended pushers and crown.
As highlighted earlier, the SBGC201G is first and foremost a sports watch. It wears big on the wrist. If you think that you are investing in a dress watch, you will be disappointed almost immediately.
The quirky pusher and crown design is also a hit-or-miss for some of you. When I first saw it, it did not endure to me. However, you need to see it and handle it in person to appreciate the thinking of the engineers in Seiko when it was designed. It is only after I put it on my wrist that I fell in love with it.
The final comment I want to make is the dial presentation. A typical chronograph generally have a date window at most. However, the SBGC201G has a GMT as well as a power reserve indicator. As such, the dial does look 'busy'. Nonetheless, information can be gleamed easily without any confusion. The cleaver choice of colours and texturing makes it look systematic. A dark dial will be more suitable as such a contrast makes referencing much easier.
Overall, the whole package is balanced. Granted the styling may be questionable, but it creates a uniqueness that is quintessentially Seiko.
Specifications
Brand: Grand Seiko
Reference: SBGC201G
Country of Manufacture: Japan
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case-Back: Screw-down exhibition case-back
Strap Material & Type: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release
Strap Size: Up to 201 mm wrist circumference
Case Width: 43.5 mm
Case Length: 51 mm (as measured)
Case Thickness: 16.1 mm
Lug Width: 21 mm (as measured)
Weight: 187.0 gm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Crown: Screw-down and signed crown at 3 o'clock
Pushers: Two screw-down buttons at 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock
Crystal: High definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Dial Color: Silver
Displays: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date, power reserve and GMT
Functions: Seconds hand hacking, manual winding, quick-set date and quick-set local time hours hand
Hands: Delta shaped
Movement: Caliber 9R86
Movement Type: Spring Drive
Jewels: 50
Accuracy : ±1 second per day / ±15 seconds per month (average)
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m (or 60 Gauss)
Power Reserve: Approximately 72 hours (3 days)
Dealer: Seiko Boutique, Mid Valley, Megamall
MSRP: YEN946,000 (inc. tax); RM29,500
Purchase Price: 22,500
Purchase Date: 17 August 2020
Serial Number: 81N012
Brand: Grand Seiko
Reference: SBGC201G
Country of Manufacture: Japan
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case-Back: Screw-down exhibition case-back
Strap Material & Type: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release
Strap Size: Up to 201 mm wrist circumference
Case Width: 43.5 mm
Case Length: 51 mm (as measured)
Case Thickness: 16.1 mm
Lug Width: 21 mm (as measured)
Weight: 187.0 gm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Crown: Screw-down and signed crown at 3 o'clock
Pushers: Two screw-down buttons at 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock
Crystal: High definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Dial Color: Silver
Displays: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date, power reserve and GMT
Functions: Seconds hand hacking, manual winding, quick-set date and quick-set local time hours hand
Hands: Delta shaped
Movement: Caliber 9R86
Movement Type: Spring Drive
Jewels: 50
Accuracy : ±1 second per day / ±15 seconds per month (average)
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m (or 60 Gauss)
Power Reserve: Approximately 72 hours (3 days)
Dealer: Seiko Boutique, Mid Valley, Megamall
MSRP: YEN946,000 (inc. tax); RM29,500
Purchase Price: 22,500
Purchase Date: 17 August 2020
Serial Number: 81N012
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The quirky pusher and crown design is also a hit-or-miss for some of you. When I first saw it, it did not endure to me. However, you need to see it and handle it in person to appreciate the thinking of the engineers in Seiko when it was designed. It is only after I put it on my wrist that I fell in love with it.
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