Thursday, October 25, 2018

CITIZEN Promaster TSUNO Chronograph Racer Eco-Drive Limited Edition 100th Anniversary Model AV0077-82E - Bullhead Fame, A Review (plus Video)


The year 2018 marks Citizen Watch Company's 100th year of operation. To commemorate this key milestone, the Company released a series of unique, vintage-inspired bullhead chronograph called the Tsuno Chronograph Racer, at Baselworld 2018 watch fair. The inspiration behind the series was the 1973 Challenge Timer Tsuno Chrono (or “horned chronograph” in Japanese). For more about the series, please refer to a special dedicated section at the end of this review.

What caught my attention was a special 100th Anniversary Model, the AV0077-82E which was not part of the original quartet launched during Baselworld 2018 back in March 2018. This special limited edition is an all black PVD version with matching bracelet. To be honest, I would have gone for the blue dial version but considering the significance of the milestone it honours, I decided on the AV0077-82E.

I found one on SeiyaJapan for USD748.00 or RM3,216.24 (at the time of purchase). Unfortunately, the package was subjected to local taxes which added another RM175.45 (inclusive of RM19.10 administrative fees) to the total.


The Tie-in

Citizen touted the new Promaster Tsuno Chronograph Racer series as "paying homage to a retro 1973 CITIZEN Bullhead model". This statement on its website has been interpreted as saying the latest series is (more or less) a remake of the 1973 timepiece. However, in reality, what Citizen is keen to show is that it is able to take a basic shape of a classic and using new technologies, create a new timepiece that is much more capable. I don't believe it is Citizen's intention to re-create or re-produce something old. Realising this fact upfront will enable us to truly appreciate the Promaster Tsuno for what it is instead of constantly trying to compare it with the 1973 model. As it stands, the 2018 model is very unique and fulfils a different role compared to its so-called 'predecessor'.



The Basic Shape

The watch casing has a two piece construction design that are distinct. The lug section is very tonneau while the main watch casing itself is circular. It has the visual effect of making it feel bulky. The main watch casing is attached to the lug section by means of four screws. Due to the 'bullhead' configuration of the lugs and pushers, this two piece design is the most efficient way to  create a set of lugs that are similar. Most 'bullhead' designed watches have two different lug designs (usually, the top lugs will be longer to accommodate the crown and pushers while the bottom lugs will be more generic) which makes it extremely difficult to find after-market straps to swap with. Unfortunately, this style of construction forces the watch to be taller than contemporary 'bullhead' designs.

The AV0077 is made out of stainless steel. The surface is IP (or PVD) coated grey and weighs in at 195 gm. It has a case size (left to right) of 44.5 mm and total length of 48 mm. As explained earlier, it is a tall watch. This thickness is enhanced further by the sapphire crystal which extends a further 1.5 mm above the fixed bezel making the total height a towering 15 mm. The watch was "CASED IN CHINA" (see it written on the case-back). This term implies that all parts of the watch was shipped to China for final assembly.  

Despite having similar lugs at both ends, Citizen decided to have a unique lug attachment that reduces the overall length of the lugs to practically zero. It would make it hard to get after-market straps unless you can find a strap maker than can modify the strap ends to fit the AV0077's unique lug attachment. If anyone decides to buy this series of watches, I strongly recommend you get the bracelet option. At least you can fall back on the bracelet if you are unable to get a replacement strap in the future.



The Dial

I must admit the watch has the busiest looking dial in the collection. It has six timing scales, two indicator scales, four sub-dials, nine hands and a date aperture. What available free space is taken up by the brand, logo and other relevant notation about the watch. To top it all, the bevel cut sapphire crystal that sits 1.5 mm above the fixed bezel creates a magnifying effect that is rather dizzying. At first glance, it is hard to make head of tail of the information provided on the dial. However, I started see some order in the 'chaos'. Before further explanation, let us go through the dial in detail.

Like the surface of the watch casing, the dial has a dark grey black tone to it. Set deep into the watch casing, there are two levels to the dial. The first is a thin shelf along the peripheral of the dial where the Tachymeter scale is located. Painted in white, the Arabic numbers and markers are rather small. Couple with the magnifying effect of the cut sapphire crystal, it is quite hard to focus properly, especially when viewed at an angle. Even with the sapphire crystal having a non-reflection coating treatment on it, visibility is still poor.



From the thin shelf, a sloping chapter ring with minute scales can be seen. Three styles of line markers are used for this scale. Painted white, it is still distorted by the magnifying effect of the cut sapphire crystal.

The base of the dial is the most cluttered. Along the edge is a scale with hour markers, minute markers and sub-minute markers. The sub-minute markers are in 1/5th second increments. The hour markers are applied rectagular bars with faceted and polished edges. On the top surface of the bars are strips of Citizen's luminous paint called Natulite (or Natural Light). Due to numerous sub-dials and such, some of the hour markers are either completed missing or have parts of them missing. Meanwhile, all other markers on the dial surface are painted white.

The date aperture is located between 1 o'clock and 2 clock. Instead of having a polished frame surrounding the aperture, the design calls for the frame to sit under the dial. This creates an additional level of depth to the dial. The date wheel uses black numbers on a white background which creates another focal point on the dial. By studying the date wheel used on all the series, it would appear that Citizen only has one design to fit all - black numbers on a white background. For some of the dial colours, such a combination is fine. However, for a dark dial, the colours on the date wheel used is inappropriate. It should be white numbers on a dark background.



Three of the sub-dials are traditional in the sense that they indicate the timing minutes (12 o'clock), the running seconds (3 o'clock) and timing hours (6 o'clock) while the fourth sub-dial, located at 9 o'clock is the power reserve indicator. The power reserve sub-dial uses a four level, fan-shaped indicator scale for reference. There is another indicator located between 4 o'clock and 5 clock to indicate whether the Alarm function is on or off. The hands of all the sub-dials are painted white while the hand for the Alarm indicator is painted yellow gold.

On close inspection, it is also worth to note that the surface on the sub-dials have a texture of fine concentric circles. Although having the same colour as the rest of the dial, the different texture makes it look lighter when viewed at an angle. This phenomena can be clearly seen in the image above.

I find it hard to find the rationale behind the shape of the power reserve sub-dial. Instead of having the same diameter size like the rest of the sub-dials, Citizen chose to make it bigger. This totally throws off the symmetry of the dial. My only conclusion is that the movement is designed as such that the power reserve gears is too close to the edge which requires a larger circle to accommodate the swing of the indicator hand. Even so, for a manufacturing concern as big as Citizen, I can just as easily decide to use a shorter indicator hand to fit into a similar sized sub-dial like the rest. Having seen the way Citizen approach the date wheel design, I can only conclude that Citizen decided to just use available parts to come out with a "new" product. This is disturbing as it shows a pure commercialization philosophy or greediness on the part of Citizen. Moreover, the E210 caliber was used on earlier models of Citizen where the crown and pushers are located at 3 o'clock and the power reserve is located at 12 o'clock. The new position of the crown and pushers on the Tsuno required a realignment of the movement by 90⁰ counterclockwise which explains the distribution of the sub-dials on the Tsuno. If this is the case, why make the power reserve indicator a sub-dial? Just make it like any typical power reserve indicator.

Moreover, in industrial design, to make something on a product stand out above the rest, that particular part should be brighter or more pronounce. Since the sub-dial on the power reserve indicator is bigger than the other sub-dials, it would imply that Citizen whats users to focus on the power reserve indicator. Why? What is the purpose when it would take 8 months for the needle to move from full to empty with no light source charging the batteries at all? It would be more meaningful if the bigger sub-dial be allocated to the running seconds. At least it is continuously moving and is more useful in so many more situations for users.

Both the main sword hands on the Tsuno have the luminous Natulite compound painted within the frame. The chronograph seconds hand is thin and pointed black apart from the tip right down to quarter of the length where it is painted yellow gold. There is another black hand with an arrow tip that is painted white with yellow gold framing. This is the alarm hand that points to the time when the alarm would sound if activated.

There are only three location on the dial where Citizen decided to add texts and a logo. The brand 'CITIZEN' is painted in white and located between 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock; the Promaster logo, the words 'Eco-Drive' and 'WR 200' can be found between 7 o'clock and 8 o'clock; and (in very fine font size) 'JAPAN MOV'T' plus some manufacturing coding located at the bottom edge of the dial.



All this is protected by a very thick sapphire crystal that has non-reflection coating put on it. I think this is a bit of an overkill as the watch can well benefit from a shorter height. Moreover, the need to to have the bevel cut around the edge of the sapphire crystal is not properly explained as it only makes it very difficult to see the dial properly. A more elegant solution would be a dome sapphire crystal that would eliminate some of the distortions created by the bevel sapphire crystal.

In the previous photo you can see the rather tall fixed bezel which appears to have a better polishing compared to the rest of the watch casing as well as bracelet. On closer inspection, the fixed bezel looks and feels different than the rest of the watch. To me, the differing surface tone makes it appear to be more like ceramic. Although official documentation states that the watch is made entirely out of stainless steel, I believe the bezel has something extra. If anyone knows, please feel free to state in the comment section below.

In the same photo you will also able to see the large crown on the right which happens to adjust the alarm hand and activate the alarm function, as well as a very small pin-push button on the left which is the reset button for the watch.



The crown for the alarm function uses a simple push-in-pull-out system. To adjust the alarm, pull out the crown and adjust the alarm hand to the desired time. Do note that the alarm will only sound for 20 seconds when the set time is reached using a 12-hour indicator hand. The alarm can be set to an accuracy of ±5 minutes. Once set, push-in the crown back to its rest position. To move the on-off hands for the alarm, press the crown once to either move the hand to the 'on' or 'off' position. To turn off the alarm once it starts ringing, you press the crown to disengage the alarm. The alarm is rather weak but generally sufficient to wake me up. Unfortunately, there is no 'snooze' function.

In the photo above, you can see the various style of surface contours that makes up the Tsuno. I do have to say that visually, the Tsuno has a lot to offer.



The crown to adjust the time as well as the pushers for the chronograph is located North of the dial. This 'bullhead' arrangement always excites me and I do have a number of watches with such configuration (see: Omega, Hamilton, Laco 1925 & Seiko). The crown is gear-tooth for grip with the Promaster logo etched on the top surface. It uses a push-in-push-out system with three positions; first is the rest position; second level up to adjust the date; and the third level up to adjust the time.

The pusher on the left of the crown (11 o'clock) is the start and stop button for the chronograph while the second pusher (1 o'clock) resets it. Do note that the Tsuno uses an instantaneous fly-back chronograph module which makes it very convenient for users (the module is a complication in which you can use the reset function without the need to first stop the chronograph. In regular chronographs you need to stop, reset, and restart the chronograph if you want to time an event after you have started the chronograph). The pushers are easy to use with a good balance of push weight required to trigger the chronograph function. The chronograph hands move like most quartz powered timepieces and resets perfectly every time.

The Tsuno is paired with a bracelet via solid end-links that are unique. The links are attached together using a typical pin-and-collar system. Like the surface of the watch casing, the IP (or PVD) treated bracelet will require some extra care when resizing. Scratches can be more of an eyesore with this watch due to the dark colours compared to a normal plain stainless steel watch.   



The bracelet tapers from 24 mm at the lugs to just 19 mm at the clasp. The clasp uses a twin button push lock system. Interestingly the twin buttons on the clasp have polished steel surface which provides a nice contrast with the rest of the IP (or PVD) protected surfaces. Meanwhile, there are two micro-adjustment points provided on the clasp for better resizing. Also, the brand is stamped deeply into the surface of the clasp.

The use of a machined bridge instead of a stamped sheet metal bridge between the two halves of the bracelet provides an additional perception of quality and value to the overall package. Similar to the twin buttons on the clasp, the bridge is polished steel without any surface colouring.



The way the two-piece construction of the Tsuno connects together can be clearly seen in the photo above. The lower section, which consists of the lugs with a circular indentation to represent a case-back is attached to the upper section which consists of the watch itself via four set screws. Information about the watch is sandblasted on the faux case-back. I did expect to see the "100th Anniversary" notation on it but I was very surprised not to find a special serial number for this limited edition piece. In fact, the only serial number found is a 9 digit running number.

This is a major disappointment for me. The lack of any notation to state the uniqueness of the watch as advertised - Limited Edition; only 3,000 examples - is rather shocking. I expect to see at least the notation "No. xxx out of 3,000". Without this acknowledgement, it is hard to justify a premium on the watch. You can argue that one can find information from other sources to authenticate but to me, the most direct, simpler and more effective way is to have the information stated directly on the timepiece itself. What possible issue can Citizen have to not even consider doing something simple like this when it is commonly done everywhere else?

After going through a couple of layers, one would be able to access the E210 Eco-Drive Movement by Citizen. This movement is solar-powered via a solar cell under the dial. It is equipped with numerous functions such as a chronograph, alarm, power reserve indicator and a quick-set date. Energy is stored in a battery with 8 months (average) of capacity. There is also an Over Charge Prevention Feature to protect the battery from overcharging. Apart from referring to the power reserve indicator, the Tsuno also has an Insufficient Charge Warning Feature. When activated, the second hand changes from 1-second interval movement to 2-second interval movement. This will continue for approximately 7 days before completely stopping. The E210 has a timekeeping accuracy of approximately ±15 seconds per month operating at a crystal oscillator frequency of 32,768 Hertz (more information about the technical specifications as well as the manual can be found at the end of the review).

 

Above is a photo of the illumination of the dial from Citizen's luminous paint called Natulite (or Natural Light). Before taking the picture, I bathe the watch with dark light to energize the Natulite. I believe it is acceptable although comparatively, it is not as bright as other brands.


The Wearing Experience

I must say the size belies how comfortable it is to wear this watch. First impression conjures the difficulties of heaving a large watch on the wrist when in reality, it is the complete opposite. In this instance, the 24 mm wide bracelet helps balance the size perception admirably. Having it taper to 19 mm at the clasp helps accentuate the watch casing. These two factors are the critical ingredient to magically make the size issue becoming less relevant.



In the series of photos above, you can see how well the large watch sits on my wrist. The 'zero-length' lug design practically allows the watch to 'wrap' itself over the contours of my wrist. This makes for a stable watch.

I guess the colour also have some bearing to making it seem smaller than it actually is. Items with dark colours tend to blend itself to the surroundings whereas items with bright colour does the opposite. If the watch has clean stainless steel surfaces, it definitely will look large on the wrist.

If you are older (like me, >48 years of age), the dial may be too busy for referencing. Some of the timing scales are really small and without reading glasses, it is just a blur to me. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.




Conclusion

I have no problems with the basic shape of the Tsuno. It wears well. However, as I go deep into the various design aspects, it would appear that Citizen was following some form of cost containment exercise which has some negative effect to the overall wearing experience of the Tsuno: one common date wheel design for all models under the series, disregarding the need to number the limited edition timepieces individually and the failure to balance the power reserve sub-dial with the running seconds sub-dial.

You may think I am too overcritical but I believe I am justified in my views as Citizen is a big company and I don't expect them to compromise on such matters.

Having said that, the Tsuno is a typical chronograph with a slight twist in the design. Disregarding some design weaknesses (from my point of view), the 'Bullhead' styling is its call to fame.


The Packaging

The watch comes in a packaging that consists of two parts. The outer packaging box that is made out of standard cardboard box and the main watch box made out of thicker cardboard. Below you will the packaging box painted black with a single silver line that goes around the box. The brand is painted in silver not only on the top surface but also on the flap-side of the box. There is also some manufacturing coding printed on one side of the box as well.



Within the box is the main watch box as well as a slot where the manual and guarantee documents are kept.



The main watch box looks similar to the outer box except that is opens like a drawer. Also in the box is a complimentary signed cleaning cloth from SeiyaJapan.



Inside, you can see the watch resting on a black pillow with no additional space for anything else.





The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chronograph Racer Series

During Baselworld 2018 held in March 2018, Citizen launched a series of retro timepieces to commemorate one of its iconic design, the Challenge Timer Tsuno Chrono (or “horned chronograph” in Japanese). Below is one of the press photos released in conjunction with that event.



The references are as follows, AV0071-03A (white dial with black bezel), AV0079-01A Limited Edition (white dial with white stitching leather strap), AV0070-57L (blue dial) and AV00xx Limited Edition (orange dial - in this case the reference number is still not available at the point of publishing this review). It was also highlighted that the limited edition timepieces will only have 1973 units per model.

Recently, an all black version was introduced. It is a limited edition timepiece with only 3,000 units available and defined as "Exclusive" on Citizen's special website commemorating the 100th year anniversary. It is categorised as a '100th Anniversary Model'. This is the AV0077-82E that I got.

Below is a photo of the original Citizen Tsuno Chrono in early 1973. Despite having the same bullhead design for the crown and pushers, almost everything else is different between the new 'commemorative' series and the original icon. The caliber is automatic, the sub-dials are arranged differently, and there is no Tachymeter scale, alarm complication nor a power reserve indicator. In short, the new Tsuno is only similar in name and overall shape but nothing else.


Personally, I don't find this as an issue. To me, the new Promaster Tsuno series should be viewed as a standalone design and should not be linked as a 're-craft' or 'reproduction' timepiece.


Specifications

Caliber: No. E210
Movement: Eco-Drive
Signal Reception: Without Radio Reception Function
Case: Stainless Steel
Strap: Stainless Steel
Water Resistant: 20 bar/200 meters/ 666 feet
Thickness: 15 mm
Case Size: 44.5 mm
Length: 48 mm
Lugs: 24 mm
Clasp: Push-button lock
Bracelet: Pin & collar system from 24 mm (lugs) to 19 mm (clasp)
Weight: 195 gm
Surface Processing: IP (PVD) Grey
Luminous Paint: Citizen's Natulite (or Natural Light)
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Non-Reflection Coating
Crystal Oscillator Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (at normal temperatures of +5ºC to +35ºC/41ºF to 95ºF)
Running Time: 8 months on full charge
Production Year: 2018
Warranty: 3 years
Functions:
  - Date Display
  - 1/5-second Chronograph for 12 hours tracking
  - Tachymeter
  - Instantaneous fly-back Chronograph hands
  - Alarm
  - Power Reserve Indicator
  - Eco-Drive (i.e. Solar)
  - Insufficient Charge Warning Function
  - Overcharge Prevention Function
Rationale: 100th Anniversary Model
Production: Limited to 3,000 pieces
Serial Number: 881050298
MSRP: USD1,095.00
Purchase Price: USD748 (RM3,216.24 + RM175.45 taxes)
Dealer: SeiyaJapan







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7 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  3. Hello, *sorry didn't find your name*
    Thank you for the detailed analysis and your opinion on the Bullhead 100th Anniversary limited edition chronograph by Citizen. Just wanted to share what I learnt yesterday at the store as I asked a couple of questions as per your blog. I was told that the Japanese consider it offensive to write a number on a limited edition thus making each watch unique and one of a kind instead of telling someone you are number xxx out of 3000. Made sense to me. Best, Maya

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  4. The best review of the Tsuno I have read to date. Your detailed review solidified my desire to purchase the watch.
    I do wish the kept the day feature. I will miss that. Adding a tachymeter just busies the dial. The 60 minutes counter makes up for it.

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  5. Very good review.
    I'm from Germany and got the same watch like you since last Monday, but what I wanted to say is that I got an other box, there the watch was in it, as you.
    Mine is bigger and looks like wood with fake leather interior and I got a special metal sign with some specs and a small one with limited edition on it, you can find pictures of it when your search online.
    By the way I found online a picture of the the tsuno racer version with the leather strap and it's looks like they got a special number on the back which shows which of the 1973 watches it is.

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